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Brew Day What Have Ya Got - 2023


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7 hours ago, Brauhaus Fritz said:

Bottled the Marzen today, 32 half liter bottles. Fermented for three weeks at a constant 12-13 degrees with some Bohemian Lager Yeast. OG 1065 FG 1024. It's a bit high but it has been sitting there for 7 days and given the OG it is with its ABV of 6% in its projected range. How do I store it now till October? Does it have to sit for some days in over 18 degrees or can it go straight into the Dungeon? 

For me, I would store them around 18°C for 2 weeks then into the dungeon.  Although if the dungeon is around 12-13°C, then they should still carbonate given how long you are lagering them for.

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On 6/8/2023 at 1:00 PM, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

Well back to basics today using up some of the Coopers Tins I purchased heaps of before getting into FWK.

I must admit this was my favourite kit before FWK now I can't stand the kit twang. 

I will be adding a kg of raspberry or more to the keg to mask that taste. 

Yes I turned into a bit of a kit snob after FWK and didn't like them changing the yeast. I have used almost 1 and a half hybrid kit yeast in this brew to use it up.

Pitched yeast on 23 degrees letting drop by itself as is cool in shed and brew fridge is on 18 degrees. Just under 19 litres OG:1.054

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Ended up tipping this after only a few days and putting on a couple of FWK brews. 

The supermarket wanted 20 bucks for a kilo of frozen raspberry so I thought screw it not worth the hassle. 

I will have dome more kits and malt tins and brew enhancer to give away if anyone interested. I will get them out during the week and list what have. 

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Today I have an Aussie megaswill lager. This is brewed close to the profile of an American Light Lager - now I know why some Americans refer to this style as sex in a canoe - far king near water! Although Aussie megaswill not much better imo 😂.

Still learning this machine, getting my head around mash thickness and effieciency at this stage. I just want to make a consistent basic beer! 😉

  • 3.25kg extra pale
  • 0.25kg carapils
  • 0.5kg sugar
  • 10g POR @ 60 minutes
  • IBU 11.5
  • EBC 5.1

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el cheapo chinese grain mill doing the job 👍🏻

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Mashing in..

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Nice foam after an hour

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Hot break beginning to form at boiling time.

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Cubing time

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Finished decanting.

---

I still have a lot of improving to do, each brew I learn a little more and improve my process.

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On 6/23/2023 at 12:49 PM, Cheap Charlie said:

Today I have an Aussie megaswill lager. This is brewed close to the profile of an American Light Lager - now I know why some Americans refer to this style as sex in a canoe - far king near water! Although Aussie megaswill not much better imo 😂.

Still learning this machine, getting my head around mash thickness and effieciency at this stage. I just want to make a consistent basic beer! 😉

  • 3.25kg extra pale
  • 0.25kg carapils
  • 0.5kg sugar
  • 10g POR @ 60 minutes
  • IBU 11.5
  • EBC 5.1

1.thumb.jpg.c920863c9ec35d63cfa11e27d9f5f759.jpg

el cheapo chinese grain mill doing the job 👍🏻

2.thumb.jpg.ddc7542d0b4a6b0c61dfcbea84d023e6.jpg

Mashing in..

2a.thumb.jpg.88b9162f848e9e782daf342772c7aaa0.jpg

Nice foam after an hour

2b.thumb.jpg.f5319c7d8ce31b275ac5d8d775383da0.jpg

Hot break beginning to form at boiling time.

3.thumb.jpg.c445c1998f7049e77951e10d6d2ea5fa.jpg

Cubing time

4.thumb.jpg.c95bc1ceb26d0c0856128c98d16b2383.jpg

Finished decanting.

---

I still have a lot of improving to do, each brew I learn a little more and improve my process.

That will be a great smashable Summer lager

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Modus Operandi's Former Tenant Red IPA.  I have brewed this one a few times.  For my brother-in-law.

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About to mash-in

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Grain mixed in ready to mash

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Transferring to fermenter

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Transfer finished and wort stirred up

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10 minutes later, yeast pitched and cold break has settled

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10 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Modus Operandi's Former Tenant Red IPA.  I have brewed this one a few times.  For my brother-in-law.

FT1.jpg.3792f0f63187dadd34682c815a74c049.jpg

FT2.jpg.f25be1fa2a3985b84f3ef3759937cb3f.jpg

FT3.jpg.c4eb6a0a551cd9fa68ead79716d28be9.jpg

About to mash-in

IMG_3799.JPG.306939751426e0f06b2d9467b1daac86.JPG

Grain mixed in ready to mash

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Transferring to fermenter

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Transfer finished and wort stirred up

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10 minutes later, yeast pitched and cold break has settled

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How did your efficiency go? Looks like a heavy duty beer. Love reds!

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7 hours ago, jennyss said:

Liked all the photos thank you, specially the cold break changes.

Agreed.  Lots of folks see this type of thing and ask "What's wrong with my beer".  In most cases, nothing.  

Once fermentation is over and I cold crash the brew, the fluffy cold break and the yeast cake will compact down to the 1-2cm thick layer we are familiar with.

I get this volume of cold break because I use a counter-flow chiller with a Grainfather all-in-one brew system.  This is unlike a system that uses an immersion chiller, that aims to chill the boiling wort down to pitching temperature in the kettle.  In that case, the wort in the kettle will be around 20°C and the cold break will tend to collect in the bottom of the kettle.  Much like it is doing in my fermenter.  The aim is to then transfer the wort to the fermenter with minimal transfer of cold break.  The issue with an immersion chiller is that it takes a lot of water and time to get the whole kettle full of wort cooled down.

A counterflow chiller has a tube within a tube.  The hot wort flows in one direction in one of the tubes and tap water flows in the opposite direction in the other tube.  The aim is for the wort to be cooled by the passing water and come out of the chiller at pitching temperature.  This is the advantage of a counterflow chiller: Only the wort in the tube needs to be cooled down to pitching temperature. 

I think the effect of the counterflow chiller is a formula based on

  • Wort temperature
  • Water temperature
  • Length of tubing
  • Flow rate of wort and water

Initially, I run the wort back into the kettle.  The wort in the kettle is cooled by the wort returning from the counterflow chiller.  Because the wort in the kettle starts just under 100°C, the wort coming out of the chiller might be around 40°C.  The cooler returning wort starts to cool the wort in the kettle.  Once the wort in the kettle has dropped to about 80°C, it is low enough so the wort coming out of the counterflow chiller is close to pitching temperature.  Then I move the counterflow chiller wort outlet tube to fill the fermenter.  Although this process is pretty quick, it means that the wort has not had time to cool enough for cold break to form and fall out of suspension.  Hence cold break forms in my fermenter, where the wort is now around 18-20°C and has time to settle. 

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5 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Great stuff Shamus, always so professional, your BIL is a lucky bloke.

I am not completely generous.  BIL pays for the ingredients.  This one will cost him $70.  To buy a 19 litre keg of the commercial version would be over $300.  He knows he is still in front.  I will also keep a couple of stubbies of this for testing purposes.

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8 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Agreed.  Lots of folks see this type of thing and ask "What's wrong with my beer".  In most cases, nothing.  

Once fermentation is over and I cold crash the brew, the fluffy cold break and the yeast cake will compact down to the 1-2cm thick layer we are familiar with.

I get this volume of cold break because I use a counter-flow chiller with a Grainfather all-in-one brew system.  This is unlike a system that uses an immersion chiller, that aims to chill the boiling wort down to pitching temperature in the kettle.  In that case, the wort in the kettle will be around 20°C and the cold break will tend to collect in the bottom of the kettle.  Much like it is doing in my fermenter.  The aim is to then transfer the wort to the fermenter with minimal transfer of cold break.  The issue with an immersion chiller is that it takes a lot of water and time to get the whole kettle full of wort cooled down.

A counterflow chiller has a tube within a tube.  The hot wort flows in one direction in one of the tubes and tap water flows in the opposite direction in the other tube.  The aim is for the wort to be cooled by the passing water and come out of the chiller at pitching temperature.  This is the advantage of a counterflow chiller: Only the wort in the tube needs to be cooled down to pitching temperature. 

I think the effect of the counterflow chiller is a formula based on

  • Wort temperature
  • Water temperature
  • Length of tubing
  • Flow rate of wort and water

Initially, I run the wort back into the kettle.  The wort in the kettle is cooled by the wort returning from the counterflow chiller.  Because the wort in the kettle starts just under 100°C, the wort coming out of the chiller might be around 40°C.  The cooler returning wort starts to cool the wort in the kettle.  Once the wort in the kettle has dropped to about 80°C, it is low enough so the wort coming out of the counterflow chiller is close to pitching temperature.  Then I move the counterflow chiller wort outlet tube to fill the fermenter.  Although this process is pretty quick, it means that the wort has not had time to cool enough for cold break to form and fall out of suspension.  Hence cold break forms in my fermenter, where the wort is now around 18-20°C and has time to settle. 

Aha, great post and interesting technique 👍🏻

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4 hours ago, RDT2 said:

How did your efficiency go? Looks like a heavy duty beer. Love reds!

Hey RDT2, I predicted Brewhouse Efficiency to be 73%.  It came out at 71%.  I hit the OG of 1.076, but the volume was a little bit down; 22.4 litres instead of 23 litres.  I did stir the mash twice, which probably helped.  I think the volume shortfall was due to the 230g of hops in the brew absorbing more water than usual brews.  The previous times I brewed it, the BH Efficiencies were 72 and 76% respectively.

It is a beauty of a brew.  The BIL and his best mate got very messy on a session of it one night ages ago. 🤪

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15 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

I am not completely generous.  BIL pays for the ingredients.  This one will cost him $70.  To buy a 19 litre keg of the commercial version would be over $300.  He knows he is still in front.  I will also keep a couple of stubbies of this for testing purposes.

Yeah, I sort figured he wouldn't be getting it for free, but he is still lucky to have someone like you to make it for him.

It looks like a great brew anyway.

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My first brew was a coopers original lager, and with what I’ve learned in the last 9 months I wanted to have another crack at a lager to make it better. I’ve never been much of a lager person but brewing it myself  and trying to make it better definitely piques the interest.

1 x Coopers Original Lager

1 x MJ Light LME

1 x Lallemand Novalager yeast

1 x 200g Carapils 

1 x 80g El Dorado hops (leftovers)

 

Steeped/mini mashed the Carapils at 67-70deg for an hour, even gave it a lil sparge with 70deg water from the kettle! Boiled for 5 mins. Gave 45g of the El Dorado hops a steep at 70 deg for 30 mins. Strained both into the FV, added the coopers tin and the Light LME pouch, gave it a good hard swirl for a minute or two to mix, topped up with cool water to 23.5L, put in the brew fridge at 12deg to cool a couple degrees, pitched the Novalager at 21deg and left in the fridge to come down to 12deg overnight.

OG 1.044

The first brew day in a while where I felt everything went really smoothly and as I wanted it to. I’m looking forward to the result! The Novalager is apparently designed to be a low/no sulphur/diacetyl producing yeast, is it worth raising the temp later for a diacetyl rest before the cold crash?

 

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1 hour ago, NBillett09 said:

is it worth raising the temp later for a diacetyl rest before the cold crash?

Novalager may not need it, but I give all my brews a diacetyl rest. 12°C to 18°C for lagers and 18°C to 20°C for ales.  They say it is important for lagers.  But also helps ales finish off.  I would raise the Novalager to 18°C as well, no matter what the manufacturer recommends.  But that's just me and I have not used Novalager yet anyway.

By the way, the recipe sounds good.  I recently did a similar thing with a can of Coopers Original Series Lager and used a proper lager yeast.  It was much better than my very first lager that came with the Coopers kit.

Edited by Shamus O'Sean
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Thanks @Shamus O'Sean I agree I guess it can’t hurt to do it. 
I currently have plenty of beer made to last me a few months I think so the idea with this was to make it and then let it lager in a spare fridge I have for a few months. Hopefully end up with something quite light coloured and very clear! 😁

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38 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Novalager may not need it, but I give all my brews a diacetyl rest. 12°C to 18°C for lagers and 18°C to 20°C for ales.  They say it is important for lagers.  But also helps ales finish off.  I would raise the Novalager to 18°C as well, no matter what the manufacturer recommends.  But that's just me and I have not used Novalager yet anyway.

By the way, the recipe sounds good.  I recently did a similar thing with a can of Coopers Original Series Lager and used a proper lager yeast.  It was much better than my very first lager that came with the Coopers kit.

I've used Nova multiple times now and do a 17°c  2 day rest, works great, saying that i haven't not done a rest so not sure if it matters.

Edited by Hoppy81
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Double brew today, not done it before*. But it makes sense, only need a cursory rinse out of the kit, and any sanitiser is still viable etc.
Pezzza’s Pilly Larger on the go this time…

* might have something to do with SWMBO and the kids buggering off to Ireland to get a soaking (35C here … p*ssing down there, obvs)

 

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Edited by stquinto
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