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Shamus O'Sean

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Shamus O'Sean last won the day on September 16

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  1. Last year I did a mini-mash/partial using 2kg Pilsner Malt and 200g Carapils and added it to the Coopers Golden Crown Lager. 23L batch. OG 1.045. ABV 5.0% with bottle carbonation. Did a 70 minute boil for fear of DMS. Added some Saaz at 10 minutes and at flameout. I loved this beer.
  2. @Mickep, I carbonate all my bottled brews at least at 18°C. Lagers and ales. Ideally I move the lagers to the garage in winter to condition for three months. I also up all my brews by a few degrees toward the end of fermentation. Lagers from 12°C to 18°C. I would do this even if I missed then end of fermentation. Would it make a difference in such a case? I do not know for sure.
  3. I think you could increase the Roasted Barley to 310g. I did a brew on the weekend with 400g of Flaked Barley and did not do anything special with them. They were mixed in a bag with the other specialty grains. I did add about 150g of rice hulls to the weekend's brew but it was a total of 7.85kg fermentables.
  4. Side-by-side taste test: Fruit of the Woods ROTM versus the Coopers Commercial version MINE COOPERS · Much clearer · Fruity aroma with a hint of sweetness · The same fruitiness is evident in the flavour · Subtle bitterness · Mine is like the little brother to the commercial version · I did dilute it to 5.1% instead of 5.5%, which will also reduce the bitterness. I also used 1.5kg liquid malt instead of 1kg LDM · Reasonably clear (first photo, ¾’s of a can) until whole can poured in (second photo) and yeast dregs got into the glass · Same fruity aroma, but dialled up a bit. I did not notice the sweetness of the HB version · Again, the same fruitiness in the flavour, but dialled up in the same proportions as the aroma. · Bitterness stands out more in the commercial version · Head retention in this version is outstanding Verdict: As I note above, my homebrew version is like the little brother to the commercial version. Both good beers in their own right. I am really happy with my version and I like the Coopers version too. Maybe mine is the XPA version to the Coopers IPA version.
  5. I do not know much about it, but you might just need a new diaphragm. Somebody on the Forum had issues a few weeks ago and a new diaphragm seemed to be their solution.
  6. I only use the KegXxxx ones. So could not help with your original query. A Mk 4, Mk 3 and an ancient one I got with a secondhand gas bottle. But I have not even had them for a year yet, so hard to evaluate. The Mk 4 gets the most use. Sometimes I will set it to say 12psi and come back half an hour later and find it has drifted up to 14psi. This does not happen always though. The old one feels the most robust. It's adjustment is nice and smooth. It will be interesting to hear about your experiences with the Micromatic.
  7. My mistake. I thought there was something sciency about 75°C being a temperature where some chemical reaction stops. Googling it suggests around 75°C assists with rinsing off sugars. As you say, this is what you want in your wort. Too high a sparge temperature can wash off tannins from the grain husks and affect the taste of your beer.
  8. Because the recommended sparge temperature is 75°C. This temperature stops conversion of starches to sugars. It also thins out the wort, allowing for smoother sparging (draining) of the grains. King Ruddager, using a kettle that has been left to sit for a bit after it has boiled, probably achieves the same thing.
  9. Russian Imperial Stout - Modus Operandi clone - They released the recipe a while ago. Their recipe is all Gladfield grains, but I could not get all Gladfield, so had to adapt. 5.3kg Ale Malt (Gladfield) 0.6kg Roasted Barley (Joe White) 0.4kg Red Back Malt (Gladfield) 0.4kg Aurora Malt (Gladfield) 0.4kg Flaked Barley (Blue Lake) 0.4kg Toffee Malt (Gladfield) 0.35kg Midnight Wheat (Compared to 0.4kg Gladfield Eclipse Wheat) About 150g of Rice hulls to improve the filter bed Pushing the Grainfather to its limits - Malt pipe pretty full, but still a little more grain to add: Thanks to a similar big brew on "The Home Brew Network", I reduced the flow using the recirculation tube tap so that the brew did not overly overflow. I removed the top plate and stirred the grains once during the process. Added the top plate after the first re-stir. Maybe a few more times might have been better, but the brew seemed to recirculate okay. Aiming for 22L of a 8% ABV beer. I did make some adjustments to reduce the ABV. But otherwise, pretty authentic.
  10. Hi GM10 - Starsan/Stellarsan/Phosphoric acid sanitiser is fine on stainless steel. Like Muzzy says, not so sure on other metals like aluminium and brass. It will be perfectly fine on plastic fermenter taps, lid and spoon. I make up a litre every brew day. Half into a 500ml spray bottle (which you can keep any left-over for next time). I usually drop small items like taps, can openers, etc into the other 500ml to soak for a bit. You do not have to actually soak them, because these are contact sanitisers, but soaking means every nook and cranny gets touched. You may not cover all points with just spraying alone. The spray bottle gets used on big items like lids and the fermenter itself.
  11. I do like the black current flavours you get from this hop. But you have to look around for it.
  12. I use a heat belt in my fermentation freezer. The heat belt probably cost $30. In fact, I have two heat belts. I have two temp controllers now. One for the fermentation freezer and one for other stuff: I use the second temp controller to control the temperature inside a big cardboard box where I do yeast starters. On brew day, I use this controller to control my sparge water temperature to under 77°C.
  13. Order placed (Beer Cartel) I got last year's too. Compared to the Aldi beer advent calendar (ooh, look, another lager) which was around $50, the Beer Cartel was great value.
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