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Shamus O'Sean

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Shamus O'Sean last won the day on June 23

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  1. I think you should be okay. Lager yeasts have a egg-like smell from the sulphur gas they produce. Other more expert folks will probably comment too. Based on what Lusty said some time back, the yeast in the Coopers Euro Lager is probably Saflager W-34/70. I base this on the fact that most of the Coopers Recipes with the Euro Lager Can use Saflager W-34/70 in the recipe.
  2. Hi @rugbrod, You could look at yeast washing. I think the gist is that the hops fall to the bottom while most of the yeast id still in suspension. You decant off the suspended yeast, into another container, once the hops and other stuff has settled to the bottom. I did it once. Just a lot of mucking around compared to J-man's idea that keeps most of the hop matter out of the yeast cake in the first place.
  3. Not too bad mate. It could have been much worse when you think about the edges on the grain hopper. I crushed the grains and had the accident on Friday night. Brew day was Saturday (yesterday). The activity of brew day caused some leakage around the edge of the band-aid. I was careful to not get any into the brew on the cold side. I expected it to look worse when I took it off at the end of the day. Bruising might still be coming. On the bright side the brews are choofing along nicely. Good little krausens after about 18 hours. The 24°C ferment is a bit ahead of the 18°C ferment. I started the 24°C ferment with a heat belt around the fermenter, set to 24°C. Although the belt turned off at 24, the temperature kept rising up to as much as 28°C before it dropped back down. There would have been less variation Inside the fermenter, but it was till too much for my liking. First thing this morning I changed the plan. Got the Coopers Craft fermenter in a standard Coopers fermenter box. Bottom of box lined with ceramic tiles. Heat belt sitting on the tiles lying around the fermenter, heating the box. The temperature is amazingly zeroed in. Does not go over 24.5°C now. Thanks for the fermenting chamber Coopers. Some brew day photos too. Waiting to mash-in Mash underway Mash out nearly done
  4. So I was supposed to be doing @NewBrews's Two Flags Golden Ale. But things went a bit awry when I had finished crushing the grain. I was cleaning off the grain dust from the grain mill rollers using an old paint brush, but running the drill to turn the roller. One second I was wondering: what happens if the paint brush bristles get drawn down between the rollers. The next second, I found out (especially with a high torque drill). Drill stays in hand. Grain mill and base does at least one 360. Back of right hand minus 3 sq. cm. of skin. Fair bit of blood. Sh1t, my 3+kg of grains is half spilt onto garage floor. Into kitchen to tidy up. Hi dear, I have had a bit of an accident. Can you get me a big band aid and some antiseptic cream? I did not have Maris Otter, so was using 3kg of Golden Promise. Well, at least half of that was on my garage floor and that was all of the Golden Promise that I had. So I did have some Joe White Traditional Malt, so I subbed some of that in. Recipe ended up something like: 1.2kg Golden Promise 1.8kg Joe White Traditional Malt 300g Carapils 100g Light Crystal (Carapils and Light Crystal to match the EBC's of the Crisp Caragold in Newbrews' recipe) 15g East Kent Golding 60 minute boil 10g Enigma 30 minute boil 15g Enigma Whirlpool 20 minutes @ 90°C I decided to split this batch, based on @Coopers DIY Beer Team comments from a few days ago. I had done a 2-Step starter of Coopers Commercial Yeast. This gave me 800 ml into the fridge for next time; 900 ml into one batch; 900ml into the other batch. One batch fermenting at 18°C, for a clean ferment, and the other fermenting at 24°C, to extract some fruitiness. I will do a side-by-side when they are ready to drink.
  5. These are the Coopers recipes that use Roasted Barley Irish Red Ale - 50g Hot steep Mister Sinister - 300g Cold steep Robo Choc - 100g Cold steep Spirit of ANZAC - 50g Hot steep Trendy Trousers Amber Ale - 100g Cold steep
  6. I have joined their site and subscribed to their newsletter. Hopefully that is where the specials get announced. Otherwise, I will just have a look now and then. I have bought stuff from them before.
  7. A bit like Lab Cat suggested, I dry hop around day 4 or 5 or once my SG had dropped to under 1.020. Wrap the hops loosely in a Chux cloth, pulled straight from the packet, and tied so the hops cannot float free. I leave the dry hops in for three days. I grab some powder-free food handling gloves. Put them on and give them a good spray with Starsan. I fish out the Chux cloth and give it a squeeze to release the hoppy goodness into the brew. Fourteen days sounds like a long time to leave a dry hop in the beer.
  8. Looking at some of the Coopers Recipes you could just crack the roast barley and do a cold steep overnight in the fridge. Strain off the grains and boil the liquid for 5- 10 minutes to kill any nasties. Cool before adding to your fermenter. To my tastes, both of your options would produce a nice beer.
  9. The Island Toasted Coconut Porter was a great beer. The coconut is a great addition. Tastes like liquid Cherry Ripe. That recipe uses a 250g packet of desiccated coconut. You toast it in a fry pan over low heat and add it to the beer like a dry hop. I think it would go well in the RIS. I do not know how the coconut flavour would age. At six weeks in the keg, my Island Toasted Coconut Porter still tastes very coconutty.
  10. I am not sure if you have found the FAQ's page yet. https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#FAQ_4_11 Basically: Brew Bitterness before fermentation = Product bitterness x 1.7 / Brew volume You get Product bitterness from here: https://www.diybeer.com/au/brewing-extracts.html Click on the extract can you are interested in and the bitterness IBU and colour EBC are halfway down the page. These are "in the can" values, in the extract form. That is why they are so high. As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres: 325 x 1.7 / 23 = 24 IBU (International Bitterness Units) This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces bitterness by between 10% to 30%. So final bitterness of the fermented brew may be anything from 14 to 18 IBU. Most brews have their IBU's quoted pre-fermentation anyway, because of the variability that fermentation throws up.
  11. How do you know when this happens? It sounds like an absolute bargain.
  12. @pilotsh, your question is perfectly reasonable. In most circumstances you would expect the ideal range or spot for doing something to be within a wider manufacturer's recommended range. All of your examples, no matter how facetious, demonstrate that. Often the recommended range will be the ideal range. In the case of brewing, the ideal range can be harder to maintain and if you drop below it, it can lead to significant issues. I think that Coopers specify the range they do to make it more likely that a punter will produce reasonable beer. 18°C is a tricky temperature to maintain for a first time brewer, whose kids have bought him the Coopers kit for Father's Day. Like me, most would know nothing much about brewing on day 1. Heat belts: Never heard of them. Temperature control: No idea (Even after I got a controller it still took me a while to figure out how to use it properly). Who has a spare fridge/freezer sitting around doing nothing (well I did, but did not know about using one for the first few months of brewing). Then bit by bit you learn stuff and progress, get more info, decide you like the hobby, invest in more equipment, etc, etc, rabbit hole. Coopers probably say minimum of 21°C because if the temperature actually drops to 17-18°C overnight, your beer will still work. If the bottom value was 18°C a punter might think (like I did) that there is a "factor of safety" in that number and brew when the temperature could drop to 14-15°C. This is when you might get stalling issues. Somebody could bottle a stalled beer. Then it gets warmer and BOOM! These are my thoughts. I guess only Coopers can give you the answer you seek.
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