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Shamus O'Sean

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Shamus O'Sean last won the day on January 26

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  1. Jeepers Lynchy17, I would cool the keg overnight, carbonate at 38-40 psi for 24 hours. Then start drinking. But that's just me. Does that sound bad?
  2. I will be very interested to read your feedback. I almost always bottle a few before kegging the rest. I have not used the Philly Sour yeast yet, but I plan to soon. Do you have a link or something to where you read about it not being suitable for bottle conditioning?
  3. Agreed. Although I do not have my drill permanently attached like some brewers do. Therefore, the mill is pretty portable. I even just connect the original handle if I am only cracking a few hundred grams of grain for a steep. Still very quick.
  4. I used the grain mill. Cracked in about 1 minute (if that). No mess no fuss. No worrying about have I cracked it enough.
  5. Sounds good @Barramullafella. I am not sure if you know, but contrary to the name, the Coopers Lager tin does not come with a lager yeast. It's an ale yeast. That is to make it more forgiving at higher temperatures. If you want to do a lager, look at the European Lager, Golden Crown Lager or the 86 Days Pilsner. These all come with a lager yeast. OR, chuck a proprietary lager yeast at one of the tins.
  6. You certainly got a good head of froth on it. It should do the trick fine. For my kit n kilos I am just vigorously stirring, being careful to not scratch the sides or bottom of the Coopers FV. Oxygen injection is probably best practice. But we do what we can with what we have at the time. We all make acceptable to great beer with basic processes. Oxygenation, nutrients, starters, etc are probably most important when pushing the capabilities of a yeast. For most of us, mixing our ingredients, pitching our yeast and a bit of temperature control will get the job done.
  7. I think this idea comes from two things: Do not stir after dry pitching yeast. I think that dry yeast is most effective if it sits on the surface and gradually absorbs wort, becomes nice and plump and then sinks. If you stir it in maybe it forms a mini airspace internally and does not do what it does the best that it can as a result. I do not really know, just spit-ballin' ideas. Do not stir post-pitch, to me is more about stirring later on due to oxidising the beer. But simplified to the statement "do not sire post-pitch". If you have pitched a liquid yeast, a slurry or a starter, I think it is fine to stir just after pitching.
  8. Question back at ya GB. How do you oxygenate your wort?
  9. Those temperatures are pretty high for brewing. I am guessing that they are the local temperatures. The ideal temperature for ales is usually 18 - 22°C and lagers 10 - 14°C. You will need a temperature controlled fridge to maintain those. In the meantime, brew on with what you have got. Upgrade when you can and if you want to.
  10. Yes. But our version added a Crystal Grain steep plus doubled the dry hop. I do not remember exactly what variations @stquinto settled on, though. Take a Coopers recipe for inspiration and make it better I say.
  11. Update as promised @Greeny1525229549: Verdant IPA yeast down to 1.019 (on Thursday) from 1.043 on Sunday when pitched. Similar timing to US-05. Krausen foam has died down. But it is still very solid and thick and glossy. It looks like it would be good for top cropping the yeast, not that I have ever done that, just seen videos.
  12. Impatience. First round of room temperature bottles went into large pot of 60°C tap water. Then applied gentle heat probably aiming for something like 80°C. I had read that temperature for a few minutes kills the yeast. That went okay, thought me. I could not wait for the water to cool back to under 60°C for the second lot. Lost one bottle going in too hot. Gave up. I think I might have tried it again the second night and lost another bottle. I ended up deciding this was a stupid idea. Interestingly, both of the bottles that broke were Grolsch flip tops. The bottom of the bottles fell out in perfect circles. Still a stupid idea. Lose 2-3 bottles of beer per batch and the bottles themselves. Dumb idea. A filter would be a much better idea. You could probably run through a filter by gravity into a bottling bucket/second FV. Then bottle from that. (Bulk prime at the same time). My guts has got used to yeast now. Plus, with cold crashing, I get less yeast in the bottle. Even better now with fining too.
  13. Looks a lot like mine did. But I did not have the view.
  14. I had the same experience with Voss Kveik and wheat, and I did not even use a lot of wheat in that recipe. Clearly, (see what I did there?) it also flocs well in the right circumstances. Just see some of @BlackSands photos.
  15. My notes say it was in the fermenter for 10 days. That sounds a little bit long, considering I was not cold crashing at that stage. My notes say my last SG reading was after 7 days. Although that does not mean that is when it finished, it might have been sooner. My guess is that I left it for a few more days until it was convenient for me to bottle. Our liking for the same brews is a bit freaky. Back then, I was pretty much brewing a lot of the Recipes of the Month when they came out. So my inspiration was limited to what was coming out at the time. What is pretty amazing is that of the hundreds of recipes in the back catalogue, you are picking the same recipes now.
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