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stquinto

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  1. stquinto

    Clearing beer after dry hopping

    Thanks for all of your comments fellas. Concerning the cloudyness, after dry-hopping I bottled the two batches yesterday (19 days after pitching the yeast), the FG was about 1.08. It tasted pretty good and it had cleared. Unfortunately I only had icing sugar for priming so I dissolved it into hot water and added it to a fresh key. Fingers crossed that the icing sugar works ok...
  2. stquinto

    Clearing beer after dry hopping

    Thanks for your replies fellers. The primary fermentation is over I think : I'll confiirm with a couple of OG readings. This is the first time I've dry-hopped it. The sequence is nearly correct Ellachlano: pitched yeast, dry-hopped after 4 days, and 14 days after this (so the total brew time is 18 days), taken this sample. What I normally do is siphon it out to a new barrel after one week (or two consecutive stable OG readings), after one more week clearing, put it in a new barrel then add the carbonating suger and bottle it. Otto recommended leaving out the second filtering, but in any case, shouldn't it be clearer at this stage (brew days + 18 days) ? Otherwise I'll leave it another week, put it in a new barrel, add the suger and bottle it. And hope is doesn't go through me like the proverbial through a goose...
  3. G'day fellow brewers, I recently posted a question on the topic of dry-hopping kits and thanks for all of your replies. I dry-hoppped a 12 litre batch of IPA with a blend of hops - Cascade and C itra totalling 30gm, and another 12 l batch with Cascade, Citra and Chinook, also 30 gm. They were both done on day 4 of a brew. I tasted them today, two weeks after dry-hopping them (in a muslin bag dumped into each batch) and they have a great taste but by Christ they don't half look like Ganges River water. Deos anyone have any suggestions for clearing them - maybe putting in some finings for example, or will the gunk eventually drop out ? I'd rather avoid adding any more chemical, but I'm not mad keen on cloudy beer, reminds me of a couple of bad experiences in my mis-spent youth drinking home brew before it had finished fermenting.... Thanks in advance
  4. stquinto

    Advice sought on dry hopping

    Thanks for the advice fellas... I'll try 'em out and let you know.
  5. Hello fellow brewers, I'm relatively new to this having brewed a few kits of Coopers: Australian Pale Ale, English Bitter, Real Ale and some other kits whose brand will remain nameless I've been brewing using malt extract and some other brand yeast and so long as I don't double or triple the malt the brews have turned out pretty good. I would like to try dry hopping. Can anyone suggest the best way for this ? I read that dry hopping 5 days into the fermentation was a good start: do I just chuck some into a muslin bag ad leave them in until bottling time ? Or do you reckon making hop tea and throwing it in ? I got hold of East Kent Golding, Chinook and Cascade pellets. Can anyone recommend quantity ? I also tend to decant the beer into another keg to clarify for a week before bottling: it really gets most of the gunk out. How long in total would you recomment leaving the muslin bag in (if I use that method). Thanks in advance guys, and happy brewing !
  6. G'day fellow brewers, I am a newbie to this (well, I used to brew 30 odd years ago...) and have made several kits over the pas couple of months. I have just finished a Coopers Australian Pale Ale > the kit, 1kg of light powdered malt (what I can find here where I live) and 400g of white sugar., the whole being 23 liters. It fermented fine in a week, I left it to clear, then primed and bottled it. Quite happy with the result: the malt gives it a bit of body, and there's reasonable fizz from the priming (white sugar). Nice and clear too with an attractive golden colour. I have an English Bitter that has about finished fermenting, which is the kit and 1kg of amber powdered malt dissolved and added, also 23 liters. My home brew supplier recommended maltodextrin for better body and mouth feel. Does anyone have a recommendation as to when to add it ? It suggests a dosage of 500g for 20 liters added just before bottling. Does this sound right ? And does this replace the priming sugar ? I am using 33cl glass bottles of whatever I've been drinking whilst waiting for the home brew to mature. Thanks in advance for any advice!
  7. G'day folks, I'm just ready to bottle an Australian Pale Ale kit made with 1kg dry malt extract and 400g table sugar. I siphoned it off into a clean bucket after fermentation and it has cleared quite nicely. Tastes alright so far too :) So far I have bottled all other brews in 33cl brown glass bottles, adding the priming sugar diluted into the whole brew. It works a treat but fancy trying out some corny kegs. How long does the brew stay good for once you've started tapping into it ? Most of the kegs I've sourced here are 17l and as I'm doing most of the boozing myself I wouldn't want it to go off (but that's a good excuse for SWMBO of course)... Attached is a pic of my brew setup Don't suppose many of you have to brew in the boiler room, next to the ski gear, do you ? Constant 21 ° though... Happy brewing !
  8. G'd day fellas, I've justr started the first Coopers Australian Pale Ale after just finding a supplier in Europe. I did a couple of Belgian kits, Brewferm, which turned out OK. In the instructions for these kits it suggested syphoning off the beer after fermentation and leaving it in another bucket for a week to clear. I did do so and when I went to bottle it it was nice and clear. I also managed to get some fermentation in the bottle with the addition of diluted sugar to the now clear beer. It is quite a good way to make sure you don't end up with swamp water when you pour it. I am not sure that if I leave it for an extra week after fermentation to clear there will still be some yeast to get the second fermentation in the bottle or am I risking flat, sweet beer because the yeast has all gone ? Thanks !
  9. stquinto

    Alternative to Brew Enhancer 2

    Thanks very much fellas, I’ve ordered some malt powder and will give it a go. I also got the ratios for the BE mixtures from Coopers but I prefer the idea of the malt. Happy brewing ????
  10. Hello, I am about to brew my first Coopers Kit (Australian Pale Ale) which I have managed to source here in Switzerland where I am now living. I haven't been able to get hold of Brew Enhancer 2 which is what is suggested. I can get hold of malt extract in powder form and brew body (malto-dextrines) though. Does anyone have an idea if a combination of these would be a decent substitute to BE2 ? I can get BE2 from the UK but the postage is a bit on the hefty side (not to mention customs charges...) Thanks in advance for any ideas !
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