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  2. Since my Cascade has largely recovered and now forming numerous burrs on the new growth, I figured I'd pick what was already ready on it today. Ended up with 77g wet, which will get me about 20g once they're dried. The next harvest or two should get it up to 50g dried, so enough to use in a batch as late additions. During winter I'll dig up the crown, cut 2 or 3 rhizomes off it and refrigerate them until mid-late spring then replant them. During that time I'll also get rid of all the weeds in the planter and top up the soil so it's ready to go.
  3. Pretty sure Lemmy and Motörhead were well known in America too mate
  4. Ok, thanks for that, so i would still boil cryo hops? Also, what change does boiling cause, what does it do to the flavours and aromas? Additionally, could I just drop the hop in, I think it comes in a powdered or pellet form or if it better to put it in a bag? Thanks so much for your help guys, this forum is awsome for greenhorns like me
  5. I do. A lot. My brain tells me "let's just make something strong for winter", so I dig up my last strong ale recipe, rush through my notes (ie. tasting videos on YouTube), try and think back a year to how it tasted, then change everything and come up with this: 75.8% Ale 9.5% Munich 5.3% Caramalt 6.3% Wheat 3.2% Light Chocolate Should get an OG of 1.065, so I got three packets of Notto yeast to deal with that. On the day I'll just look through my hops and try and get ~55 IBUs Hopefully it's not awful!
  6. successful brew day today, put down a Nelson Sauvin summer ale, cubed and into the fermenter Sunday. Never tried this hop before , so looking forward to this one
  7. I have no idea who or what you all are talking about. I got the Kenny Rogers bit but I am lost. American in the room, I am a noob.
  8. Today
  9. I have a tropical ale and a 3c's pale ale on tap right now, with an amarillo SMASH in the fermenter. Happy days. I will brew tomorrow to keep the stockpile up. Right now I am having the tropical ale and I would say it has hit its peak. Great aroma and flavour through a nice crisp and clean base. Lovely beer. Have a good and safe long weekend everyone, Norris
  10. Make it the way with the bottles and sugars in each of the bottles. Once they get active put it into another solution of about 1.8L (preferably malt based) in the 2L bottle. There you have a stepped starter and will be plenty enough yeast.
  11. It probably is the same stuff. The one I use does all that too. I know the main difference between them is the drying method used, but there must be other differences as well given the significant differences in behaviour, especially when boiled.
  12. Indeed. Also named for its colour. It really is black as the ace of spades
  13. i think the legend Lemmy would of stubbed his cigarette out in Col Porters face, more to the point
  14. I've had (and actually brewed one too) a few Bocks and plenty of dunkels. I think Marzen is definitely on the right track. It's not quite as rich in flavour or as high in alcohol as the Bocks I've had. It drinks quite like a lager but with a more malty flavour.
  15. Personally, given the lack of love for the Lager tin, it needs all the help it can get. I'd go 1kg of LDM. Boil 20g Mosaic with half the LDM, cool, strain and toss into the fermenter with the rest of the LDM and the lager. At day 5 throw in 30g Mosaic in a sanitised chux. If you don't want to get into hop boils yet, just chux the whole 50g. Cass, I steeped Mosaic with my last pale. I don't think it suits it, it changes the flavour to much for me. It's better now after a month in the bottle, but it was a overly peachy/nectarine. Boil and/or dry hop works best IMO.
  16. I've never used mosaic before and am far from the most knowledgeable person here when it comes to hop additions. Given it's your first brew and we want to keep it simple I'd say 25g hop steep and 25g dry hop would probably go alright. Hop steep means to boil 2l of water, then as soon as it's boiled, take it off the heat and add 25g. Leave that to sit for 20 mins or so then cool it in a water bath for another 10-15. Then use that 2l as the liquid to dissolve your lager can and dry ingredients in the fermentor. For the dry hop, grab a Chux cloth straight from the pack, put 25g of hops in it, tie the cloth into itself leaving a bit of space for the hops to expand, and then drop in the fermentor 3-4 days before you plan to bottle, but at a minimum after at least 4 days of primary fermentation. Try to take the lid off for as short a time as possible and try to fully submerge the hop bag.
  17. As Hairy already pointed out, it may be Märzen or a Bock. Both are darker and richer. The former due to the fact that they could only legally brew between September and April, so the Märzen was brewed with more malt and hops to make it last until the next brew season. The region is also known for their "Dunkles", a dark lager, with a more malty character. They also brew Schwarzbier (literally black beer) but this is more common toward Thuringia and Saxony.
  18. Ok, so ideally 1kg of ldm, but possibly just the 500grams How much mosaic would you then suggest? Based on 1kg and then 500grams? Thanks u have been very helpful so far
  19. If you had 1kg of ldm it could replace the BE1, but only 500g might leave the beer a bit light in alcohol. BE1 is 600g dextrose and 400g maltodextrin, so you could maybe use half the BE1 and the 500g of ldm. The reasoning is (and there are many more experienced brewers on this forum that could give more info or even correct me) that too high a percentage of dextrose can leave a beer a bit 'thin' in body. Maltodextrin is unfermentable so is used to add body (presumably to counteract the dextrose) but for this reason can sometimes leave some perceived sweetness in the beer. Most of the brewers here will guide you to use either BE2/BE3 or just use malt extract and leave dextrose/maltodextrin out altogether. For your first brew I think it will be fine to use half of it and see what you think. The malt will add colour and flavour but it's the ale yeast that makes the beer an ale.
  20. You need more sunshine in your life.
  21. One of my LHBS in Hallam (SE suburbs of Melbourne) sells a light dry malt that dissolves really well. Not sure it is the same course stuff Otto refers to. It does seem a tiny bit courser than the Coopers version. However it still crystallises very quick, sticks to the edge of whatever container you put it in, and makes the bench top sticky. Does the job though. I buy it in person in 5kg bags.
  22. Finally back from a 9 week stint in Canberra and it's time to fire up the fermenters. I have Coopers 23L and 8.5L fermenters and can run both simultaneously. All-In Brewing Red IPA FWK, made to 20L, US-05, OG: 1042. Coopers APA can, made to 10L, rehydrated kit yeast, OG: 1050. Both brewing at 18C. My quickest brew day yet. After I get these done I will be doing Coopers XPA then Sparkling Ale. I appreciate it's time to start the winter beers, but I still have quite a few dark ales, and will be testing last year's batch of RIS.
  23. Awesome .. will certainly give it a run .. many thanks Shamus .. happy to be here
  24. Hey @Osca The Shark Fin was a really nice beer. I did a side by side taste test against the Single Fin. They were different, but mine was better. PS welcome to the Forum Cheers Shamus
  25. I would say that six coopers bottles gives a big enough starter for a standard, sub-1050 OG brew. The 2019 Coopers Vintage says to use the Commercial yeast starter plus the brew can yeast. It is effectively a toucan plus 1kg dextrose.
  26. I thought he meant Col Porter... for non-PC reasons of course.
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