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@talltwits This thread might help you with your enquiry. The spreadsheet has quite a bit of ingredient information. -
Hey guys, I’ve not been on here in a while. I have brewed a good free Cooper’s can kit recipes (basic with no added ingredients). I’ve also done a few BIABS but I’ve not really got the time for them the now. I was looking for a source of info to make beer kits a bit more exciting. For example, I have a coopers lager kit sitting doing nothing. I’ve not brewed it yet as I want to do something a bit more exciting for example add in some citra hops and maybe a squeeze of orange or two? This sounds good in my head but no idea if it’ll work and just came up with it myself. I’m looking to see if there is source of recipes or is it just a case of trying etc etc. I hope this makes sense. Also has any one ever used half of one of these cans to make smaller batches and kept the rest? Is this possible? thank kyle -
Thanks for the advice fellas 👍 I've progressed from pure kit brewing, to dry hopping, then steeping grains and boiling with hops. Time to go for a proper stove top boil - I've already got a decent 9l pot. I would try full grain but don't really have a half day free for each brew. This sounds like a good compromise. @Greeny1525229549 - sounds great, I can get WY1388 here (even if it's twice the price as normal yeast), should I got for 2 packs (each pach does 5 gallons) ? I found the section of the book online (ordered it off amazon too) - as both Saaz and Styrian seem to be aroma types would you go for one over the other first ? @shamus - these times you quote are cumulative ones, right ? Boil then at 25 minutes add the Centennial, + 15 minutes more the Mosaic, and + 5 minutes for the Cascade, leaving it to steep for another 5 minutes (= 50 minutes in all) ? I found this reference which looks pretty useful: https://www.brouwland.com/content/assets/docs/Hops_EN.pdf Hops_EN.pdf -
By Shamus O'Sean · Posted
Nice work with the hydrometer sample. I ferment in a freezer. For ales, to give the freezer a bit of a break, I firstly set the temperature controller to 10°C. Once it has got there and stabilised a bit (about 8 hours), then I set to 1°C. Isinglass fining treatment 12-24 hours later. Polyclar fining treatment 24 hours after the Isinglass. Cold crash for at least 2 more days then keg and bottle any spare volume. -
Hi brewers Wondering if anyone has a good clone for Balter XPA? I’ve got citra, centennial and Amarillo hops, DME and coopers Pale Ale extract but keen for advice on hop schedule, brewing temp etc. Any tips welcomed Cheers Ren -
By DeviantLogic · Posted
This is immensely helpful; I will do exactly as you suggest. Thanks a lot! I'm ahead of the game with the hydrometer sample, as todays sample is sitting in the brew fridge alongside my fermenter. 🙂 When you cold crash do you typically just drop the temperature all the way (I gather this would be down to 2-4C?), or do you drop it more gradually? -
cheers.. so the best time saving yeast technique is to sanitise and sprinkle. lesson learned -
By Shamus O'Sean · Posted
Best to pitch soon after rehydrating. A Lallemand YouTube, just recently, said within 45 minutes. They also said rehydrating compared to dry pitching makes very little if any difference. See if you can find the video. Its only about 3 minutes long. Actually, I found it: -
as far as I know rehydrating is done without nutrients so its not a starter which is why its done for no longer than 30 min before pitching. I dont know alot about it but was looking into.it a while ago difference between starter and rehydrated and found if no nutrients use as soon as possible. mainly because all rehydrating in warm water is doing is getting the yeast active before pitch it in head start not multiplying cells as far as I know. -
if i'm rehydrating packet yeast is this something i can do the night before and if so, should i fridge it or leave it at ambient temps? (for example i'm mostly using lallemand yeasts and their instructions say sprinkle, wait 15 mins, stir and let sit for 5 mins before pitching)
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