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  1. Yep I agree, but I calculate 1.038 - 1.012 so I would try to warm it up a couple of degrees for another two days or so. A 3 day ferment tells me it might just need more time at a slightly higher temp to finish it off but it is nearly there. If still 1.014 after that then yep bottle away. Cheers - AL
  2. I am also sincerely sorry for your loss Shamus. I too only just noticed this thread and know where you are at, as I also lost a younger brother and just recently his wife to cancer. Both taken way too young. Life deals us some serious blows sometimes. Hopefully the sun will shine on you and your family again soon and things will get better because I know they do. It will be a tough road for a while. Stay strong. Cheers Mate
  3. Wait for @MUZZY to come on board. He will know how to fix this. Cheers - AL
  4. @amberfiend Yep that lube from Bunnings will do the trick. I have and use both this one and the KL one - all good. Remember less is more when using this stuff. You do not want it become a source of infection in subsequent batches due to it holding onto any crap. Cheers - AL
  5. I was just taking the piss MUZZY. I did not order 200 only 20. The postage is the problem, not the price but the bloody delay! 14 days to get into Melbourne. I think my shipment must be coming via row boat from BrisVegas. Cheers - AL
  6. @Kelvin B Cloudiness is normal at this stage of the process and it will start to clear when fermentation is finished. By the look of it yours is still fermenting on account of the froth at the top of the sample tube so may not be finished just yet. After your FG has stayed the same for at least 2 days then see if you can put the whole FV into a fridge to cold crash it at normal fridge temperatures or if you have a dedicated FV fridge with temp controller set at 2 C. Leave it there for a few days. This causes most of the yeast in suspension to drop to the bottom and helps clear your beer. Don't worry if you cannot cold crash it as it will clear up in the bottle and you will not believe the difference after a few weeks carbonation and conditioning. Good luck with your brewing and welcome to the forum. I would not worry about adding any fining's or clearing agents either, just give it time. PS I took my shoes off before answering your thread. Cheers - AL
  7. @mickep Yes most of the cheap bottling valves drip although that being said mine is ripper and might only drip very slightly between bottles. TIP: Get yourself some 8 mm OD beer line to extend it and give you much more flexibility. You can cut a small section off the Coopers bottling wand tube, say 50 mm and use it by pushing it onto the tap end of the beer line, this end will get pushed up into your FV tap. Push the remainder of the wand tube (the bottling valve end) onto the other end of you beer line. You now have a flexible bottle filler which connects to both, the FV tap and you still have your bottling wand / valve to make use of. Then get yourself a small clean bucket of suitable size so that the empty bottles stand upright and support each other (refer method below) or one of those 5 L handy pail from Bunnings like I have which is perfect. You can sit 3 x 740 ml PET bottles in the 5 L handy pail, have it below the FV but up high enough on a box or something so you do not have to bend over. Fill the first bottle and leave it in the bucket or pail to stabilize the bucket during the remainder of the bottling operation. Fill the second bottle, then start filling the third bottle. While the third bottle is filling lift out bottle number two and put it up on your bench, grab and empty bottle and drop it into the vacant spot in your bucket or pail. Continue this procedure until all done. Doing the bottling this way, the wand and dripping valve has little time to drip as it is quickly moved from bottle to bottle. Any that does drip ends up in the bucket and not on your floor or shoes. You could also drink what ends up in the bucket, if any. Hope that helps. Cheers - Al
  8. @amberfiend You cannot bottle directly from the collection container as those ports will most probably be covered with yeast trub / hop matter. Best you get the floating dip tube kit for bottling / kegging. You will have to trim your floating dip tube kit line so that the SS ball sits right on top of the closed butterfly valve before first use and don't forget to sanitise the inside of it by pushing your sanitiser through the port and line. Have a look at the associated videos on the KL site re the dip tube if you have not already. DO NOT throw in a batch until you have tested it for leakage both liquid and gas pressure. Get yourself some food grade lube for the "O" rings. A very tiny finger smear here does wonders. I presume you have a spunding valve kit? If you do not have access to CO2 gas then you can use the build up of CO2 to push your beer out the floating dip tube but bear in mind you will not be able to fill all your bottles with this residual pressure. It takes 1 psi per stubbie so you will not make it even if you allowed the pressure to get up to near the 35 psi max. To solve this problem you can can do the last bottles by siphon gravity feed if the Fermzilla is up high on your bench and the bottle filling line is long enough to drop down to near floor level. For this operation you will need to pull the PRV on the top of the Fermzilla and sit it at right angles so it stays open to allow air in and the siphon to work. See pic of my beer filling line and tap assembly. You will need a longer line than mine if gravity filling your bottles. If using a duotight in-line tap, you could have a short line for taking gravity samples and a long line for the gravity filling job. DO NOT use the bottling valve for filling when it is under pressure otherwise if your wand is in a bottle the valve will get blown off into the bottle and you will have to fish it out. If not in a bottle at that time then your floor will be lapping up your beer. You can re-fit and use the valve once pressure used up and switching over to gravity feed. Use the in-line tap when under pressure to start and stop the flow. Along with the floating dip tube kit get a 10 pack of those red ball lock carbonation caps, they are so useful and you will not regret this. If you want to push all the beer out via pressure (presume no CO2 gear) then get one of those hand pressure sprayers and fit a gas ball lock connector to end of its hose, that way you can pump the fermzilla back up to keep you beer flowing into your bottles. @Journeyman and @Shamus O'Sean have pics here somewhere of their setups. Cheers - AL
  9. Not necessarily. The brew may stall at 1.025 (for example) for a few days because it got too cold for that particular yeast or for some other reason. @Bottles70 As others have indicated it depends on the recipe. Best advice I can give is get a hold of the IanH spreadsheet, enter your recipe ingredients verbatim and take note of the FG numbers. The beer is ready for bottling when it lands at or very near that number for a couple of days. Don't worry if your beer is a point or two off the expected FG for that particular recipe, just so long as it is definitely stable over two or more days. Cheers - AL
  10. Here ya go, no finings and cold crashed for 8 days including steps down from 18 C. Many many years ago I used to use isinglass and have tried gelatin but now I have a couple of FV fridges, cold crashing is the only way to go. Notice trub at the bottom, if the FV is picked up and tilted towards the end of bottling to get the last drop out, this trub (pizza base) will slowly move over towards the tap sorta like a stingray moves across the beach sand, if you get my drift. Do it with reasonable care and you will get 33 x 740 ml PET bottles out of a 22 litre batch like I just did. More beer less waste. Gotta be a good thing. Cheers - AL
  11. Yep +1 for the Coopers FV re no air lock and height saving, also don't forget 9 times out of 10 you will not need to use the included Krausen collar so even more height saved. If you are like me and never brew a big Krausen stout or similar then the Krausen collar will never get used as absolutely not needed. Going with 2 x Coopers FV's without the collar you may just get two into a even slightly smaller fridge so keep that in mind as well. If you want to brew a big foamy stout then you can just do one FV at a time. Cheers - AL
  12. +1 to spraying some sanitiser up into the tap after taking a sample, put a drip tray underneath it and flood that tap, let it drip dry. Obviously sanitise every thing that comes into contact with your brew in the bottling process just as LABCAT says. Bottles are personal choice, I keg the bulk of my ales and use 345 ml stubbies for some travelers / testers. All my lagers this year have gone into 740 ml PET. If bottling into 740 ml PET take note of MUZZY's tip and use 1 x Coopers carb drop AND 1 x cube CSR white sugar - you will not regret this. You will probably have to order in some sanitiser in the current lock-down in Melbourne and wait for AusPost to deliver. Some brewers on here have home made sanitiser concocted out of general supermarket goods (vinegar and the like) so you may have to look at these recipes if in a hurry. As for fining's - if you can cold crash your brew for about 7 days at 2 C then you can forget about finings, your beer will be as clear as, yeast cake will sit on the bottom like a fresh pizza dough ready for the pizza tray. Handle RV and bottle carefully and it will stay there. I will post a pic shortly of my last batch of Busty Blonde which has been cold crashed for 8 days so you can see what I mean. Cheers - AL
  13. @Richmondrod What MUZZY said. Welcome to the forum. Attached it a graphic of my lager brew back in January. It consisted of the Lager kit, 1 Kg BE1 plus 500 gm DME. The Coopers kit tin 7 g of yeast was used. It will give you an idea of temperature profile and times to aim for. Good luck with your brewing. Go Tigers! Cheers - AL
  14. Sorry for sending you on a bum steer there Mark. I cannot check any other local Woolies stores as they are out of my 5 km lock-down zone. Might get shot if I try. Cheers - AL
  15. @Mickep Here you go, have a look at this tread - read here. Cheers - AL
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