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iBooz2 last won the day on June 17

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  1. Yep. I have been doing a fair bit of study on yeasts and have some charts somewhere on another PC, will dig them out and post up to explain why. The How to brew beer by John Palmer explains it pretty well too. Plus all the old recipes I have dug out do it that way.
  2. Just dry pitch both yeasts at 15 C temp wort (or lower). Give the wort a really good aerate first with a sanitised SS whisk or something similar then sprinkle both packs onto this foam. Leave FV with lid on for 15" then whisk the by now almost re-hydrated yeast into the wort. No need to re-hydrate separately. Set your temperature controller to 15 C for the next few days.
  3. Ok, this will be my first steps down that seemingly shadowy, seedy muggers lane way to home brewing a dark beer for myself. I tremble at the thought of stuffing my journey up and most likely coming out with two dark eyes, missing teeth and much poorer for the experience Maybe some of you that have "been here done that" could cast your eyes over my concoction and I would be interested in your views of my half hatched recipe. For example, did I get the balance of Crystal Dark Malt to Chocolate Malt right or is it the wrong way around. Ideally looking to replicate the low bitterness easy drinking of the Tooheys Old beer that I sampled at the Hill End Pub. Hell, who knows I might even be brewing stouts for next years winter sipping soon. TIA - AL
  4. I got my Copenhagen Lager Yeast and Diamond from KL here in Melbourne. Yep sorry but I think I bought the last 5 packs of the former (CLY) so may have been lucky getting that strain. Only trouble is they have a use by date of 22 July 2021 so I will have to get cracking and make some more beers and then some carry over starters for later on. Pack says only 1 smack pack required for a standard gravity batch around my volume of 21 litres so I just used the one this time. KL still have some Diamond Lager Yeast available I would take advantage of the bulk buy pricing as the use by date on the ones I got were May 2022.
  5. G'day Popo, they were talking about the Woolworth's branded beer kit cans so they will not be in that Coopers list. Someone said they were made and packed by Tooheys for Woolworth's. Good effort anyway and your post might help someone else.
  6. My Carlsberg Pilsner was pitched today at 17:00. Doing this one in my second Coopers FV and in my original brew fridge just so I can keep an eye on the temps and get used to what this WLP850 works like. Pitched at 10 C and will be fermented at 10 C for the next 8 days. Normally do my usual lagers in those Bunnings blue drums where I don't have to monitor gravity etc as I know what they do. The blue drums for me are a set and forget until D-rest time.
  7. Yep that is what I did, the kit yeast AND the 1 x pack of Dubbya. OR 2 x packs of Dubbya if you don't have an "in date" kit yeast. I could be wrong but I think the kit yeast with this Euro tin is actually Dubbya anyway, others may know if that is correct or not.
  8. Just looked up my Euro Lager brew day notes. I used the Coopers supplied kit yeast and a pack of W-34/70 (nicknamed Dubbya on this forum) and is ripper yeast for lagers. All my lagers brewed last lager season (winter for me) used the Dubbya but this lager season I am trying the Diamond lager Yeast and the WPL850 Copenhagen Lager Yeast strains. Have a crack at using the Dubbya, you may not want to use anything else once you have tried this one.
  9. @Spursman With lagers it is best to up the temp as it approaches your predicted FG number. Take it up to the upper temp limit of the particular yeast you are using and let sit it there for 2 - 3 days as others have suggested. Then start the cold crash routine. Your fridge taking 3 days to get down to say 2 C is perfect as the proper way to cold crash a lager is to step it down over several days. Plus your fridge compressor will thank you for the rests on the way down. So your temp routine would look something like this: Ferment at 15 C for 7 -10 days up the temp to say 18 C for 3 days for the D-rest then after that step it down to 13 C for 1 day, then 9 C for 1 day, then 4 C for 1 day, then get to 1 - 2 C finally for 2 days and bottle after that. I do not agree with pitching at 20 C. Pitching at a high temp and then dropping the temperature lower is sending the wrong signal to the yeast IMO. I used to pitch my yeast at the higher temps but when your read all the pro recipes and look at their ferment routines they all pitch at or below the lower ideal yeast temp then let it slowly rise up as it ferments to the higher ideal yeast temp. This of course varies from yeast to yeast and will depend on what flavours you want the yeast to throw in your recipe. I now religiously pitch all mine low.
  10. Hi Shamus, yes this PH thing annoys me a bit. Just cannot seem to nail it each batch but I am getting better at it. I have measured my tank water from the same tap nearly every brew day and the numbers keep moving. I have seen it come in at as low as 6.7 and high as 7.4 just measured it again this morning and it sitting at 7.4 + 7.2 + 7.3 = 21.9 / 3 = 7.3 is the average of the 3 samples. My Horiba PH-11 meter was giving me grief several days ago as it would not calibrate the supplied buffer solution of 4.0, just came up with an error. It was OK with the 7.0 solution. So I did a factory reset on it, re-calibrated using the supplied buffer solutions and its seems to have cleared this error. My rainwater comes off a fairly old cement tile roof and there is a fair amount of leaf litter from a gum tree nearby. I imagine there would have to be some difference if it was coming of a nice clean colourbond roof. With this batch of the Carlsberg Pilsner on brew day my PH meter read the rain water to be 7.4 so hence the acid additions. I tested it 10" into the mash and it was 5.8 so hence the extra Lactic Acid was squirted in (5.25 ml at 88%). The PH was again tested 15" further into the mash and it was now showing 5.1 so a little bit of an overshoot there (target was 5.2). It was again tested during the mash out step of 76 C and it was 5.3 which surprised me as I though that during the mash the PH dropped slowly lower. I will have to do a bit more reading up on this. My PH meter is temperature compensating but I always try to get the test liquid at around the 20 C mark. I think ideally the test liquid needs to be at the same ambient temperature as the meter itself as per the manual so that maybe one area were I could be stuffing it up.
  11. Mate. South of France (family heritage there for me) and your downstream on the Nile to start with. The last holiday we were organizing was a sail down the Nile (my wife's dream trip) but CV got in the way and it all fell apart. She is as shitty as hell about that. Hopefully we will get there and tick this one off her travel list in the near future.
  12. Me too. I would kill for a good feed of fresh cooked yabbies. All washed down with a nice beer or three.
  13. Don't stress @Green Blob, I will bring some up in July and piss it into your rain water tanks ha ha...
  14. Don't worry I am still grumbling but I have a saying.... No Trucking Effort = No Trucking Reward. Therefore I will be sailing on. After all, its the good ship HMAS AllGrainer so beat that slave ship drum cause I'am a rowing. ha ha..
  15. @Green Blob and @Shamus O'Sean here it tis. Caveat: I have not brewed this before so unsure if it will need any tweaks.
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