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iBooz2 last won the day on September 7

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  1. @Spursman Yep had this happened to me too. Bloody blue fermenter drum from Bunnings had a stuffed thread, suspect someone had over wound the bung or a tap and stripped the drum thread, then took it back and got another one. Bunnings put this dud one back on the shelf and then I came along and bought it. Anyway stuck with it now so glued the bung in with plastic rated superglue. I bought another new one, checked the thread before paying and keep this one as a spare now. They are very handy in case of a mishap like ours and they are excellent for when you want to do a dirty batch and pitch fresh wort straight back onto the trub. Mix up you new batch of wort in the sanitised spare, bottle or keg the original brew from the original FV and then tip the new batch straight back in. Hope your turns out ok there mate. Maybe buy yourself some spare taps and "O" rings too. Ya just never know.
  2. Phil mate - Ya wanna run that by me again?
  3. @Tone boy a late edit: Just re-read my brew notes and in the second one (in the attempt to try and fix the head issue) I also swapped out the 2 x 500 g of DME as per the recipe and used 1 x 1.5 kg can of Coopers liquid light malt extract instead but it was still a no go, dud head. That's why every time I did a K & K after this it always included a cold over night steep of Carapils / Carafoam and found 200 - 250 g about right for 23 L batch. This gave me nice heads on these beers similar to what I get nowadays on AG.
  4. Welcome to the forum. I think you will find the Morgan's sanitiser is actually Sodium Percarbonate it's just recommended to be used much more diluted than it is when using SP as a cleaner. It is a non rinse sanitiser only if allowed to drain and dry completely. I have used it a few times before switching over to the Stellersan type products as you do not have to wait for them to completely drain and dry so saves heaps of time.
  5. @Tone boy Yes mate I have made two of these when I was trying to do a beer for my mate Leigh. First one was as per the recipe. Comments: Quite nice, malty and not too bitter. Does not have a head or hold any even on/after an aggressive pour. Second one with a grain steep (100 g Caramunich 2 as that's all I had at the time) to try and fix head issue. Comments: An improvement but darker due to grains used of course but needs at least say 200 - 250 g of carapils next time. This one use the @MUZZY method ver 1.0 but still does not hold its head, in fact its all gone before your second sip. I have since worked on this recipe and found the only way to fix head issues is a cold steep overnight of 200 -250 g of carapils then a 5 - 10 minute boil. So hence worked on my own versions starting off with not a kit tin just 2 x Coopers liquid light malt and then bittered it myself with PoR. Did 5 versions before I reckon I nailed it then moved onto an AG version which I will post up in the my pub lager thread when time permits. Now if you really want to impress your mate have a look at my pub lager recipe here. Be warned if you do he will probably want to marry you.
  6. @stquinto The partial mashing or full mashing of grains as in AG adds another total dimension to your brewing and will be a skill you will use time and time again because it just makes so much difference. I liken it to marinating or adding a dry rub on some meat in readiness for a BBQ or smoke house cook up. Just adds something that you just cannot get without that process. You will know what I mean.
  7. With all due respect - you are insane................ or your taste buds have been burnt off....
  8. If you can get a colander that will sit across the rim of your pot that will do the trick. I can lift 4.5 kg wet grain in my BIABasket system easily enough so you should be able to lift your bag up, slip the colander underneath and let drain without a problem. The weight of the wet grains in the bag is enough to push the wort out, you don’t need to squeeze it but you can sort of sparge with say a kettle full of 75 C water. The warmer the sparge water the more liquid the sugars become and this helps to drop them through the grain bed quicker but do not go any hotter or near boiling with sparge water as it will seep out all sorts of tannins and taint the wort. I mill mine fresh at slightly less than the recommended gap of 1 mm in my grain mill because I have found this about right for me. Also have used grains that have been pre milled for a month or more because I had to and did not notice too much of a problem. Yes wait until your water is at strike temp say 65 or 67 before dunking the bag full of grain and start your mash time from the point when all the grains are fully wet and the water has stabilized at the desired mash temp. @Journeyman can assist with info on milling grains with a coffee grinder etc. so please wait for his input here.
  9. That's what I am saying, cheaper to chew on just one hop pellet and get those kicks! Cannot wait until you post your IPA recipe with a possible 1K$ hop bill of materials. I knew a kid (my nephew) who would not eat any greens when he was a very young boy. He would say to his mother, what is that green stuff doing on my plate? His mother suggested that he put some tomato sauce on those greens (and did so for years) and for him to eat half to show his good intentions. So from then on he was addicted to tomato sauce and it had to go on everything, more and more and I mean smothered on everything every time. He even used to put it on his breakfast cereal in the end which used to disgust anyone who witnessed it. Later as a teenager he was diagnosed with pre-diabetes and had to desist with the tomato sauce, soft drinks and sweets etc. and luckily he did get out of that sauce habit. Sorta think of him when I see huge hop bills in brews.
  10. Hey Cap! Would it not be cheaper and just as tasty for you to use just some of those hops as chewing tobacco? Cut out the middle man so to speak. Save you having to brew a beer and all. 180 g wow!. Come to think of it, have not heard from @Norris! in a while and I think he also owns a big hop farm....
  11. And if it ends up a line call ya just gotta brew both RIGHT!
  12. An update on the recent double batch in the new 58 L Kegmenter. So the first double batch of Leigh’s Lager is done and ready to keg. First try at a pressure fermented a lager using Dubbya so this was a bit of “shoot first and then adjust the sights to match the hit target” so to speak, as I had no idea where this was going to go or end up. The chilled un-carbonated sample tastes very much like the un-pressure fermented versions of this recipe. I have a couple of kegs already of previous batches to pour from and compare it to so can compare glass with glass. Matter of fact I am having one now. It’s not the end of this experiment as I think I can push the temps a little higher than the 1 x 1.5 times my normal profile for this yeast. Next time I am going to go for 2.0 x times pitch temp ( say 24.0 C at 10 psi) and so on and see how that turns out until I get to a “no go” area and from that work out a sweet spot of temps and pressures. I know @Graubart has been pushing the boundaries of the envelope with normal non-pressure ferments at high temps with this yeast so it will be interesting to compare notes. This experiment has shaved 7 days off my usual 21 day lager profile and I am thinking I can possibly get it down to BD + 8 or 10–ish in the future. As an aside I would like to point out to @kmar92 that as you can see by the temp and pressure graph the pressure of the Kegmenter does definitely drop during the cold crash step down as I suspected, due to the beer taking up and absorbing the free CO2 in the Kegmenter head-space. Anyway I hope that helps any future lager pressure ferment ideas and we will see what the next one presents like in a graph in a month or so.
  13. Yep all good. Just to reiterate for others reading this thread / forum just in case they don't know. Hops should only be stored in air-tight containers in the freezer. Yeast should always be stored in air tight containers in the fridge section at the normal fridge temps.
  14. Yes JM hops must be kept in the freezer. Jfegus was saying they had been kept them in the fridge for a few years so pretty much these will be stuffed but still might be something in them. I probably should have said "If the Cascade hops have been stored in the freezer and not the fridge they would have lost a lot of their grunt by now ANYWAY" sorry my bad. I.E. Hops kept in freezer for a few years = almost > 50 % stuffed. Hops kept in fridge for a few years = definitely stuffed.
  15. @Jfergus If you are trying to get close the the Coopers Pacific Pale Ale EBC = circa 8 or 9 IBU = 27 ABV = 4.2 % then I would use the Canadian Blonde kit as this pretty much mimics the Pacific Summer Ale Recipe in the Coopers recipe section (which is one of the best recipes IMO). Keep the TC IPA can for another recipe on another day. So use the Canadian Blonde Kit plus the 500 g DME plus 500 g Dex will get you there ABV wise. If the Cascade hops have been stored in the freezer and not the fridge they would have lost a lot of their grunt by now so will probably add just the right amount of bitterness to get you to 27 IBU. If they have just been stored in the fridge then probably still use them just to use them up and would get even less out of them. So bring the 500 g DME with 5 Litres of water to the boil and do a 5” boil with the Cascade. Remember the longer the boil the darker the EBC gets so 5” is enough then let that stand off heat for 20”as per @Tone boysuggestion. Use the whole 50 g Galaxy as a dry hop on day 3 or 4 and remove just before bottling as per @Journeyman suggestion. Drink these early to get the most out of the Galaxy aroma.
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