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  1. @rodge I have a similar problem with my wine cooler fridge and cubes. Before your next batch, if you were to drill a hole in the cap and fit a duotight 8mm to ¼ BSP male thread through the cap (they come with “O” ring seals - see pic) then some beer line to a duotight 8mm ball shutoff valve then that would convert the lid which is now at the bottom edge of the cube into a tap. My cubes when lying on their side with the bung vertical always have the cap on the lower edge so that would work for mine and maybe yours too. When you finish CC, simply attach some 8mm beer line to the closed ball shutoff tap and put the other end right down into you keg then siphon the beer into the keg. Obviously you would have to crack the bung open a bit or remove it to allow air in and the siphon setup to work. Alternatively you could fit a ball lock liquid connector to the other end of the 8mm beer line and simply click it onto the OUT ball lock connector on the keg then just let the beer siphon in (burping the PRV) until full, that is if your cube arrangement is a bit higher than the top of the keg The new lid tap arrangement in the cube lid will be above the trub line so you will not have to move the cube or tip it or rotate it. Hope that idea helps. Cheers - AL
  2. @Journeyman Mark, I know what you are saying re home brewers but what I was getting at re the OP was the we want the fittest and healthiest yeast to start with and as far as adding yeast to the bottles etc, they are already there albeit tired ones. As you say just need some sugars. You may have miss-read me. I did say bottling (sugar priming a given) and priming their kegs (as some don't sugar prime kegs). That being said if you wanted to replicate a Cooper's PA you could also put in some fresh yeast per bottle along with the sugars as Cooper's do but we are getting OT here and will be another topic probably already discussed here somewhere. I think PB2 mentions this way back. Cheers - AL
  3. Have to disagree. Cooper's do and on a grand scale. Also any home brewer who harvests their yeast also do if they are bottling or priming their kegs when the commercial yeast alone was used in the FV to begin with. Cheers - AL
  4. My interpretation of why Cooper’s recommend doing the harvest process from a low alcohol beer is that the fresh new yeast injected into the beer at bottling time is under much less “alcohol stress” than that with high alcohol beers. So that’s why I follow Cooper’s video suggestion. This stress starts on day of bottling and continues until its done its carbonation job and probably beyond. Any alcohol stress damage done would already be evident at drinking or decanting time so may be damaged goods by then. Don’t know if the DA yeast is any different from their normal commercial yeast, probably not just more pitched at the start of ferment I am guessing. @Journeyman Mark, the alcohol left in the bottle will still be the same % ABV for the last teaspoon as it would be a full bottle anyway, unless of course you freeze it off. But that's not the issue I suspect as per above. @UncleStavvy keep us informed re your DA batch, let us know how it turns out. Cheers - AL
  5. @Beer Baron you can also save a bit of height by not using the airlock. Just use a right angle plastic irrigation fitting through grommet into a blow off tube down to a small bottle of sanitiser underneath your FV frame. This would also work if using a spunding valve and fermenting under pressure. Cheers - AL
  6. Currently have 4 FV's cooking away, well sort of, 2 are in CC mode. 1 is Pacific Summer Ale which completes CC today and will be kegged this afternoon. 2 is Green Neck Lager nearing end of CC. This one will be bottled and stashed away in a cool spot for a month or two. 3 is Coopers Mild Ale +PLUS, just started its CC this morning. 4 is Steam Beer at BD + 2 Only got 2 empty kegs so I had better ramp up the beer drinking in next couple of days. Cheers - AL
  7. @Yuley and @Shamus O'Sean yep that does sound like a plan. Do you mind if I bring a keg? I am actually kegging my 3rd batch of Summer Ale this afternoon which is just in time because my 2nd batch keg is about to blow, been savoring the last few glasses. In the meantime stay out of harms way everyone. Cheers - AL
  8. @UncleStavvy If not a fan of the pale ale then use Cooper's Mild Ale stubbies for your commercial yeast harvest. Its better to use a low alcohol one anyway. That's what I have been using and once you have the initial sample grow a starter and keep some of it for next time. That way you will not have to force yourself to scoff 6 beers you don't like ha ha.. Its a tough job but somebody has to do it! Cheers - AL
  9. @NewBrews when I do a pork on the spit, inject it first with a 1/4 cup maple syrup, then marinated it it another 1/4 cup of maple syrup mixed with 2 x tbsp balsamic vinegar, 2 x tbsp wholegrain mustard and 1 tbsp fresh crushed garlic. Marinate overnight. Next day on the spit, as the maple syrup oozes out during cooking to glaze, baste with the remaining marinade so wholegrain mustard seeds stick to the outside and roast with meat Very yummy. My wife's favorite spit roast. Give it a go. Do a similar thing with beef but use port. Cheers - AL
  10. Hmmm, might have to stop my wife from eating all the passion fruit for breakfast. There may be none left for a brew soon or come winter. Keep us informed further down the track @therealthing691 am keen on proving my beer brewing manly hood to the wife with something along this recipe. Cheers - AL
  11. @Titan All good, I was only referring to the OP question re Coopers brewing sugar. No harm done. Just thought it may help to point out they are not all generic, one size fits all sort of product. Your example looks like its 100 % Dextrose. There are several other companies that sell "brewing sugar" I wont name them here but it you look closely at their product ranges in some cases they are a blend but still called brewing sugar on the pack or the bag. I have two packs of another brand, 1 is 100 % dextrose and the other is a blend. Both are labelled as brewing sugar so it can be confusing. Cheers - AL
  12. @Yuley that's a bugger, has the carbonation improved over time? I have guzzled two batches of my Summer Ale now and have a third in CC nearly ready to keg. By the way I notice you use the same LHBS as I do in Boronia so not too far away from me as I am in Croydon. Might be able to "lend" you some summer hops if you want to give another batch a go with the real deal. Cheers - AL
  13. Welcome to the forum @Farlow Having recently done the lager can with the BE1 I recommend also using 1 x 500 gm packet of Coopers DME which made it quite a drinkable beer. See this thread here Good luck with your brew and many there be many more to come. Cheers - AL
  14. Ok KR, we are a wake up to you. Your'e not trying to brew a beer or stout, your're trying to create a cure for COVI19 and patent it. Yes agree. If its a Coopers tap which is looks like it will be, also carefully remove the two 'O' rings on the tap when cleaning as they will get stained and gunk maybe underneath. Particularly the inner facing one. Once sanitised re-fit "O" rings and then should be ok. Cheers - AL
  15. Not quite but almost. I think you will find the Coopers brewing sugar 1kg pack contains 80% (800 g) dextrose and 20% (200 g) maltodextrin. And that is why the Coopers brewing sugar is usually about $1 per kg more expensive than the Coopers Dextrose. That's what I have noticed in most retailers anyway. Cheers - AL
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