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What's in your fermenter? 2019


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Citra Mosaic Easy Pale Ale

OG 1.052, Predicted FG 1.012, 32 IBUs 

Coopers Lager can, 1kg LDME, 0.5kg Wheat DME, 200g Caramunich II cold steeped, 300g sugar

HOPS:  15g each of Citra and Mosaic for 5 minutes

Will dry hop 25g of each after 5 days

Doing this as  an easy drinking pale ale
First  time not using a liquid malt can in a recipe ( apart from the brew can), interested to see what the difference is using mostly DME for my fermentables

Cheers

James

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6 minutes ago, James Lao said:

Citra Mosaic Easy Pale Ale

Doing this as  an easy drinking pale ale

First  time not using a liquid malt can in a recipe ( apart from the brew can), interested to see what the difference is using mostly DME for my fermentables

Good luck with it JL... did my experimental time in dry only in the past vs with extra liquid malt on a KnK and I recommend since to use Liq Malt adjunct... helps heaps with head, head retention and mouthfeel... ah well... that's my take on it.  I reckon that somehow when you dry down the malt, there might be some protein denaturing going on and hence you lose that improved head- head retention and mouthfeel.   Doing the grain steep will help I guess... ah well see how it all goes mate. 

Good brewing mate.

BB

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I think it is personal preference. I do not prefer 2 cans of lme in my brews. For my tastes it made it chewy while I prefer the lighter quaffers.

For head retention I resorted to carapils and wheat dry malt and then eventually just a can of goo and the rest in grains which then left no issues with the head and body. I figured if I was steeping grains, carapils, I might as well mash grains for an hour.

But it is about personal preference. It should be right either way.

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On 11/15/2019 at 9:02 AM, PaddyBrew2 said:

Hey Christina. What’s your pressure settings when you want to fast carb?

Hey Paddy, I am still figuring that out. I have been using 30PSI for two days, but that might be too long, as the beer is quite foamy at first. I will try one day next time. 

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10 hours ago, ChristinaS1 said:

Hey Paddy, I am still figuring that out. I have been using 30PSI for two days, but that might be too long, as the beer is quite foamy at first. I will try one day next time. 

30PSI for two days sounds quite reasonable.   Did you give your keg a good shake? Also, are you sure it's not just a beer line length issue?   

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Artisan Reserve   Said I wouldn't try another lager after my 2 pils were a bit meh earlier this year. But here we are. Brewed as per recipe, but dropped back the malt 500g. Couldn't get Hellertau Hersbruck, so it's all regular Hellertau. 25/25 boil/25 steep.

Had a stinking hot day yesterday, hit 41c in Perth. Despite lots of ice and cooling the steep, I ended up with a 28C wort. My fridge struggled to get temps down.

Pitched the saf 34/70 and kit yeast at 24C or I'd be waiting hours til it hit 18. Sometime overnight I reached the 12C target. No activity at all yet. Never used saflager before, it is normal for it to take a long time to get going? I realise lager brewing is a longer ferment.

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20 hours ago, James Lao said:

First  time not using a liquid malt can in a recipe ( apart from the brew can), interested to see what the difference is using mostly DME for my fermentables

Cheers

James

Personally, I don't think there's too much difference having done many brews with each, however a lot of my LME brews have been winter beers. You get a bit more malt in the tins Vs 1kg dry, so you may or may not detect the brew is a little lighter bodied?

Edited by Lab Rat
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17 hours ago, Norris! said:

I think it is personal preference. I do not prefer 2 cans of lme in my brews. For my tastes it made it chewy while I prefer the lighter quaffers.

For head retention I resorted to carapils and wheat dry malt and then eventually just a can of goo and the rest in grains which then left no issues with the head and body. I figured if I was steeping grains, carapils, I might as well mash grains for an hour.

But it is about personal preference. It should be right either way.

Agree Norris old cobber - I certainly am advocating only one can of additional LME goo - so e.g. Coopers Real Ale Kit plus a can of Amber Malt plus DME/Dex to whatever ABV desired... or Coopers EuroLager with Light Liquid Malt and some Dry.... or Coopers Stout + Dark Liquid Malt + Dry.... obviously a partial mash or grain steeping is all good too.  It is all personal choice no doubt.  But I did have a festive crack at a Dry All Malt brew from scratch... with only like 500ml of a dark malt liquid... and although it ended up being a good tasting brew.... somewhat like a beefier version of Toohey's Old.....  head generation and retention was SFA.   Some really liked that too.   So yeah... it does depend on what you like.  Some of my mates reckon that Great Northern is the biz... but I think that is purely the power of advertising and they all think they are up north in the bush and catching fish (without a hint of the fekkkkin heat. sandflies, mozzies, crocs, stingers and sharks which believe you me come on tour if yer up there doing it).

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13 minutes ago, Norris! said:

Haha quite agree @Bearded Burbler

Ha ha Cheers Norris!

What was bizarre with that Light Dry Malt Extract brew was I was all fired up I was making a Pure Malt Beer...  this was moving away from Dex or any of the Brew Enhancer mixes... so just PURE MALT!

Yeehaaa... I dunno how many kilos of the good stuff I dumped in - there was dust flying everywhere - was LOADS as I had bought a 20kg bag on spesch.  And then had this smaller pouch of dark malt liquid... mixed her all up... dumped some more of that LDME in for good measure...  (bit of poetic licence being allowed here)

And then after secondary ferment the head was just buggggger all...  had plenty of welly boot ABV wise... and body and flavour not too bad.... but head... forget it.  I woulda needed some of this: 

image.png.3cbfe1b5942de1a3c3c6b71210b9db29.png

If you need a translation @Norris! I am sure @Aussiekraut can help... but hopefully the visuals will assist 😜

Edited by Bearded Burbler
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14 minutes ago, Red devil 44 said:

Hefeweizen I bought in a Goon bag, not even 24hrs down yet but going crazy, don’t know whether to put the Krausen collar on ? ( normally don’t need it ), brewing at 18 degrees in the fermenting fridge, go you good thing 😜😜😜😜

Niiiiiice. Go you good thing!

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17 hours ago, BlackSands said:

30PSI for two days sounds quite reasonable.   Did you give your keg a good shake? Also, are you sure it's not just a beer line length issue?   

No, I did not give my keg a shake. Am I supposed to? 

I am just using a picnic tap, so beer line length is minimal. 

Cheers,

Christina.

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1 hour ago, ChristinaS1 said:

No, I did not give my keg a shake. Am I supposed to? 

I am just using a picnic tap, so beer line length is minimal. 

Cheers,

Christina.

No, the keg shouldn't be shaken. The only time this is done is when you are carbonating it instantly. 

Line length might be the issue. It is based on the temperature and pressure of the kegs, not what type of tap is on the end of it. 

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@Otto Von Blotto This is what I am using. 

https://www.noblegrape.ca/products/thumb-tap-complete-with-ball-lock-connector

The ID of the tubing is 3/8" (9.5mm) and it is 22" (56cm) long. I guess with such a short tube I should be using 2PSI as my serving pressure, but as soon as I turn the gas on with my regulator, it shoots up to at least 5PSI. Maybe I should replace the tubing with something longer? My chest freezer is at 3.5C. 

Christina.

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1 hour ago, ChristinaS1 said:

@Otto Von Blotto This is what I am using. 

https://www.noblegrape.ca/products/thumb-tap-complete-with-ball-lock-connector

The ID of the tubing is 3/8" (9.5mm) and it is 22" (56cm) long. I guess with such a short tube I should be using 2PSI as my serving pressure, but as soon as I turn the gas on with my regulator, it shoots up to at least 5PSI. Maybe I should replace the tubing with something longer? My chest freezer is at 3.5C. 

Christina.

Beer lines are usually narrower in diameter - 5mm or 6mm typically and usually much longer as well. This is needed to balance the system and create necessary resistance.  This might be of help:

https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/

(NB: uses imperial measurements)

 

Edited by BlackSands
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1 hour ago, ChristinaS1 said:

@Otto Von Blotto This is what I am using. 

https://www.noblegrape.ca/products/thumb-tap-complete-with-ball-lock-connector

The ID of the tubing is 3/8" (9.5mm) and it is 22" (56cm) long. I guess with such a short tube I should be using 2PSI as my serving pressure, but as soon as I turn the gas on with my regulator, it shoots up to at least 5PSI. Maybe I should replace the tubing with something longer? My chest freezer is at 3.5C. 

Christina.

Yes, far too wide and short. The beer would be flying out at normal carbonation/serving pressure, and that would cause it to foam a lot in the glass. 

You could drop the pressure to pour but it would become annoying constantly adjusting the regulator. Better off getting some narrower line, 5mm ID is good. Start with 3.5-4 metres and trim to achieve an ideal pour. 

Edited by Otto Von Blotto
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On 10/21/2019 at 4:03 PM, ChristinaS1 said:
Just put this down today. Recipe inspired by the Captain's Faded Jeans Pale Ale. 
 
El Capitano APA
 
1.7kg Coopers Lager
1.3kg LME
700gm Canadian base malt
300gm Light Munich
200gm malted wheat
75gm Honey malt
15gm Cascade x 10 minutes
15gm Cascade x 4 minutes
10gm Mosaic x 20 minute hop stand
20gm Centennial x 20 minute hop stand
20gm Cascade DH x 48 hours
10mL Clarity Ferm
Liberty Bell slurry
 
OG 1.050; FG 1.011; ABV 5.1% keg, 5.5% bottle; IBU 33; EBC 10.5; BU:GU 0.66
 
Cheers,
 
Christina. 

Just tapped this brew a few days ago and it is really nice. Turned out great. 

Cheers,

Christina.

 

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Just pitched my pilsner, didn't look at the volume markings but it looked about 21 litres. I'll check it next time I go out there. Wort temp stabilised at 8.5 degrees so I'm happy with that. It'll warm up to 12 over the next half a day or whatever. 

Inkbird settings the same as the STC, although I forgot to calibrate it before I taped it up so I don't know whether it's reading totally true or not but it shouldn't be too far off anyway. I'll have to remember to check it before the next batch goes in there. 

In the other FV is the centenarillo which has been cold crashing since Saturday (or Sunday really). I'll add isinglass tonight, and polyclar either tomorrow day or night. Thursday we're off to Melbourne. 

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On 11/18/2019 at 6:31 AM, Otto Von Blotto said:

Line length might be the issue. It is based on the temperature and pressure of the kegs, not what type of tap is on the end of it. 

Line length is critically important for friction loss in the lines as well as temp and pressure in the keg. 

But I would suggest that taps also will make a difference!

Am not an expert on this Kelsey - but I got myself a SS Pluto Gun.... cost more... the other alternative was some pissss-ant plastic thing picnic tap that looked dangerous...

So I reckon the tap you use will make a difference as well.

Otherwise why do all these tap manufacturers go on and on about how legendary their new u-beaut taps are?

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