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ChristinaS1

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ChristinaS1 last won the day on April 16

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  1. I have yet to test this myself, but I read that if you want the beer to be carbonated once chilled, you need to set the spunding valve to something like 20PSI during fermentation. I have also read that if fermenting at >15PSI it can be dangerous and that you should wear eye protection when handling. A study I saw said that there is not much improvement in flavour fermenting at 30PSI vs 15PSI, so for safety sake it is best to ferment at 15PSI or less. This will require topping up the carbonation at bit once chilled, if you want to start drinking it right away. The other option is to do as Cosmos does and leave it for a while at serving pressure. Cheers, Christina.
  2. @Red devil 44 That would depend on what setting you put your spunding valve. I have built a spunding valve and intend to use it to ferment in a keg at ambient temperature (~20C) soon. FWIW, in the reading I have done you need to ferment at 20PSI for it to be carbed once you chill it, but I have no direct experience. Cheers, Christina.
  3. Nice one Kelsey. I will be interested to hear what you think of it when its done. Could you please cross post it in the English Bitter thread?
  4. If you don't have enough fridge space to ferment at lager temperature another option is to ferment at ambient temperature under pressure, using a spunding valve. Fermenting under pressure stunts yeast growth, similar to how fermenting cool does. 27L batches can be fermented under pressure in a Fermentasaurus and 17L batches in a keg. I am about to try fermenting in a keg for the first time myself, as soon as I have a keg free. My LHBS has switched from carrying Wyeast to WLP and now liquid lager yeast is only a $2-3 more than a pack of dry lager yeast. They only carry three liquid lager yeasts. Might give it a go with this spunded batch, with a Shaken Not Stirred starter. Trying to decided between WLP830 and WLP802. Leaning towards WLP802, but am open to suggestions. Cheers, Christina.
  5. 34/70 brewed around 21C will likely provided a lower FG and fewer esters than an ale yeast at the same temperature. My guess is that if you pitched an ale yeast at lager rates and brewed it at 18C it would likely taste similar to 34/70 pitched at ale rates and brewed at 21C. I suspect Jamil Zainasheff double pitches his ales to reduce esters. Lager yeast don't produce many esters. Cheers, Christina.
  6. Hi @Bearded Burbler. Depending of the OG of the wort and the volume of the batch, a starter may not be necessary with dry yeast. For a sub 1.050 brew of 19-23L one package of dry yeast should be enough. A fresh package of dry yeast probably has double the number of cells in it compared to a fresh tube of liquid yeast. The problem with making a 1L starter with 11.5g of dry yeast is that you don't get many new cells. There isn't enough food to support much cell division; the pitching rate is too high. Your method is not far off of the "Shaken Not Stirred" method I use. A Shaken Not Stirred starter is made using 1L of wort in a 4L bottle with a narrow mouth. Right after pitching the yeast* you shake the bejezus out it for 2 minutes, to aerate, and then put a bung and airlock in the top and leave it alone for 12-18hours. The method is meant to be used with liquid yeast but I use a package of kit yeast, which contains 7g. The reduced pitching rate of 7g vs 11.5g allows for more cell division. I have used both 4L glass carboys and 4L plastic water jugs with ribs on the inside to make starters and prefer the later, as it seems make the wort more foamy / aerate better. If using plastic, just be sure the wort has cooled or you will melt it. Rather than waiting for the starter to ferment out the idea is to pitch at high krausen. The new cells that grow will never have been exposed to the shear forces of agitation and will be at the peak of health when pitched....Regardless of whether or not you believe the shear forces of agitation are harmful, there can be no debate that pitching at high krausen is ideal. Cheers, Christina. *I always used to rehydrate dry yeast, but I discontinued the practice a few months ago. I have not noticed a significant difference. Note that I have not yet had occasion to make a starter since I stopped rehydrating, but I will try it next time.
  7. Hey BB, How many grams of dry yeast do you add, and how big is your starter? Do you shake it or use a stir plate? Cheers, Christina.
  8. If you know you are going to keep it for more than six months, better off freezing it with a little glycerine, as you will end up with more cells at any time after that than if you didn't freeze it. Can't imagine that there would be many cells left alive at fridge temps, after 18 months. Cheers, Christina.
  9. I have used an auto siphon for years, when bottling. I recently switched to kegs. The second time I transferred to the keg (the keg was closed and I had the auto siphon hose attached to the beer out post) I noticed bubbles in the tubing. Once I noticed I stopped the flow and re-primed it with more pumping to get rid of the bubbles, which of course resulted in air being blown into the beer already in the keg. I worried about that causing oxidation. I am not sure if I can taste it. It does taste different than the few bottles I filled after getting rid of the bubbles. Anyway, now I transfer with the keg open and dangle the auto siphon hose to the bottom of the keg. If I see bubbles in the hose I can lift the end of the hose out of the beer when I pump the bubbles out. Also, I read that it is a good idea to pour a small amount of cooled water from the kettle into the top of the siphon. If anything leaks past the rubber seal, it will be water and not air. Cheers, Christina.
  10. Well maybe not entirely useless. I read in "The New IPA" by Scott Janish that using large percentages of Carapils (he used it for 50% of the grist) might help with flavour stability in NEIPAs because of its higher levels of LTP1 protein. That is the same protein that is supposed to help with head retention; it has antioxidant properties as well. This explains why beer with high amounts of malted wheat are less stable than ones with only barely. Carapils has more LTP1 than malted barley, which has more than malted wheat. So if I understand correctly, if you use both Carapils and malted wheat in the grist, they may cancel each other out in terms the amount of LTP1 that makes it into the kettle. If using Carapils, skip malted wheat. Cheers, Christina.
  11. Sorry to hear about that @Hairy. Wishing you a speedy recovery. I only you lived closer, I'd send you some beer so that you would not have to resort to buying commercial beer. But most of our friends here on the forum live in Australia. Maybe they could all send you a few bottles to tide you over till when you can brew again. Cheers, Christina.
  12. Just had my first sample of this last night. It has been in the bottle for 15 days. It probably needs another week in the bottle before it is ready to start drinking but I am pleased with the results so far. It is very tasty: roast-y but not astringent, malty, with a slight hint of caramel. Perfect for a cold winter's night. I think the recipe would work well with the Irish Stout kit as well; I might use that next time. Cheers, Christina.
  13. Truer words were never spoken. One thing that will help is keeping notes on what you think of the recipe after you have begun to drink it, as your memory of it will fade fast. 1+ what Kelsey said about how other ingredients can change the flavour of the exact same hop schedule: a different percentage of the same crystal malt, a different colour crystal malt of the same percentage, or the even the same colour crystal made by a different maltster (ie English vs German vs Belgian vs American vs Australian). Cheers, Christina.
  14. Of course you do! Your answer is correct....I used 150g in my original draft. Ruddy's has used common, round numbers in his example, but you aren't always going to have round numbers to work with, in which case cross multiple and divide. Cheers, Christina.
  15. Your recipe has 20g of each in the dry hop, so there are 60g in whatever your current weight of pulp is. Let's say it is 175g. Say you need 14g of 8.5%AA hops. I am not that great at math but I think 14g X 175g pulp / 60g = 35g pulp. Is that right? Cheers, Christina.
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