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ChristinaS1

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ChristinaS1 last won the day on April 16

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  1. Sound like our spring and autumn temps. When you say your whole car was covered in ice, do you mean it was caked in freezing rain, or do you mean frost? Cheers, Christina.
  2. @MitchellScott Somewhere in Australia get notoriously cold in winter? Now you have me curious Mitch: what qualifies for "notoriously cold" in Australia? Cheers, Christina.
  3. @EWildcat7 Do you live in Australia? Just trying to figure out if January is hot or cold for you. Lager and Dark Ale kits use 100% Coopers ale yeast. They could have issues with temps <18C. Nottingham yeast should eventually carbonate if temp is above ~14C. Aztec recipe uses Mexican Cervesa. Comes with the ale/lager blend. Cool carbonation temps should not be an issue. Black Pils uses 100% lager yeast. Cool carbonation temps should not be an issue. Since you are having issues even with the lager and blended yeast, I don't understand. What brand of carbonation drops are you using? Are they Coopers or another brand? Coopers are 3gm each, but some other brand makes them 2gm each (this was just mentioned in another thread). Cheers, Christina.
  4. Yes, the state of fermentation does impact the effects of dry hopping. Yeast can convert geraniol to citronellol, and linalool to nerol. If you do a hop stand, or add the dry hops at yeast pitching time, or early during active fermentation, the yeast will have a chance to do that conversion; the earlier in the process you add them, the more citronellol and nerol (provided the hops contain good levels of geraniol and linalool). If you want some geraniol and linalool to remain unconverted (they too taste lovely), dry hop after FG has been reached. Dry hopping after FG results in more volatile compounds like myrcene still being around when you begin to drink the beer; some people like myrecene and some people don't. Dry hopping during active fermentation also results in a less harsh, less astringent beer. Yeast interact with the polyphenols and and pull some of them out of suspension during flocculation. Most of the aroma transfer from dry hopping happens in less than 48 hours. Extended dry hopping times increases the amount of polyphenols in the beer; polyphenol extraction peaks at around three days. To reduce polyphenols, dry hop for two days and at slightly cooler temperatures (~14C). Hope that helps. Cheers, Christina. PS Above info taken from "The New IPA," by Scott Janish.
  5. @Bearded Burbler I can't blow the picture of that regulator up so I am not sure if it has a shut off valve on it. Some do, some don't. It looks like that one does not have a shut off valve. If you just tap one keg at a time, or go with a simple splitter instead of a manifold, a shut off valve on the regulator it is very handy. If you have a manifold, a shut off valve on the regulator is not necessary. Right now I am just tapping one keg at a time, since I just have one tap; I do not have a manifold. I am very glad the regulator I chose happened to come with a shut off valve. I did not know when I bought it that I would need it. It saves having to crank the handle on the tank off when switching between kegs. Cheers, Christina.
  6. Of those five full size Coopers kits, which ones did you use? All of the small kits come with the ale/lager yeast strain but the big kits come with a variety of yeast, some of which are 100% Coopers ale yeast. The entire Original Series kits, plus the English Bitter and Blonde kits, come with 100% Coopers ale yeast. Ale yeasts in general, and Coopers yeast in particular, prefer to operate at temperatures no colder than 18C; they work faster if it is warmer. If your carbonation temperatures dips below 18C, especially at night, and you are using 100% Coopers ale yeast, your bottles may take ages to carbonate. A bottle does not hold much volume and, once it looses its heat to the air, it doesn't readily warm up again during the day. With the ale/lager blend, if the temperature dips below 18C, the lager portion will continue to work; the blended yeast handles fluctuating temperatures and cooler temperatures better. In the winter I avoid using 100% Coopers ale yeast and stick to kits that come with the ale/lager blend. Nottingham is an ale yeast than handles cooler temperatures better than most ale yeast, so that is another option. Save the Coopers Ale yeast in the fridge and use them up in the summer time. It handles warm temperatures better than most other yeast. Cheers, Christina.
  7. @porschemad911 Hey John. Neat that you are trying this again. Thanks for sharing your process. If you work out all of the kinks and perfect this method, that would be great. All the reports I have read online of people doing this, they only tried it one or two times and then went back to regular brewing. I get the feeling that even at Briess they did not try it out that often. But since you like low ABV beer, you may have more incentive than most to keep refining the process. Cheers, Christina.
  8. @Norris! That is an interesting article, but don't think I will be trying open fermentation. LOL! Totally agree with you about brewing for your brewery. I was just reacting to Kelsey's use of the word "proper." To be clear, I actually feel the same way as Kelsey about exposing wort to the air at temperatures below 80C being risky for infection, but I don't go so far as to imply that practice is improper. And earlier he said something along the lines of DMS only being a problem if "bad practices" are used, yet he transfers to a closed container at 85-90C, which in theory is a "bad practice." Kelsey says he is not noticing any DMS in his brews. The most likely explanations are 1.) his transfer temperature is actually lower than he thinks and there is very little DMS present, or 2.) the DMS is above flavour threshold but he isn't bothered by it....Given that 12 out 13 commercial brews in that study had enough DMS to contribute to their flavour profile, we are all probably so used to it that it tastes normal to us. Cheers, Christina.
  9. @Otto Von Blotto By hop stand I mean any additions made after flameout. This would include an addition made as the heat is turned off, which is what I think of as a flameout addition, plus any made to the kettle at lower temperatures. Anyway, I am curious how you can be so sure what the "proper" way to no chill is Kelsey? To call something "proper" you are are either relying on tradition or science. Passive cooling was the norm in the days before electricity and running water, but there would have been many different customs around the world, so which is proper? What is works on a large scale might not on a small scale, and vice versa, and what works in one type of vessel, might not in another, etc, etc. In terms of "maximum protection" against infection, wouldn't that mean transferring the wort from the kettle to the cube ASAP, and not waiting for half an hour? I tried to find out what a safe temperature is, to leave wort exposed to the air, in terms of infection protection. The author of the Milk the Funk article thought it safe to keep the lid off until 60C / 140F, and he supplied a reference (I only read the abstract, as you have to pay to read the article), but that is 3C below what is usually considered pasteurization temperature. Personally am not comfortable leaving wort exposed that long . Elsewhere I read that some bacteria can tolerate temperatures of 71C / 160F, but it was not referenced....I would be very appreciative if you could point me to some evidence that 1.) 85-90C is safe from an infection perspective but that 80C is not, or 2.) that transferring to a closed vessel between 100-80C does not result in levels of DMS above 30-50 microgram/L (the taste threshold). All I have been able to find on that score is reports by home brewers that they don't notice DMS in their beer, using their method, whatever their variation is. But I hope you don't get me wrong, I support the idea of no chilling. If I were doing full volume boils, I would move to no-chilling too, because it is a very practical, low cost method of cooling. Cheers Kelsey, Christina.
  10. Hey, I recently also bought one of those gizmos that BlackSands has, but I have not had a chance to use it yet. I dry hop commando. My plan is to put the end of my auto siphon in the tube when I am transferring, to prevent the hops (and yeast) from getting sucked up....I know most of you don't use auto siphons. Cheers, Christina.
  11. So how do no chillers do hop stands? Do you: A.) Do it in the kettle before transferring to the cube? If so, what is the temperature when you finally do transfer? Has it dropped below 80C? B.) Transfer the nearly 100C wort to the cube first and add the flameout / hop stand hops to the cube, making adjustments to your bittering addition? I guess in this scenario, the hop stand lasts for however long you leave the wort in the cube, before transferring to the FV? Thanks for the info. Cheers, Christina.
  12. Possibly, but there may be other factors at play. I don't know if this has been studied. Have not bothered to look into it as I don't no-chill. My guess is that if one was planning to no-chill, a 90 minute boil would be a better idea than a 60 minute, especially if using Pilsner malt. But lagers are kind of sulphur-y anyway. Cheers, Christina.
  13. There is an article about DMS on Milk the Funk. http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Dimethyl_Sulfide The way I understand it, there are two precursors to DMS: SMM and DMSO. The main culprit is SMM, which gets decomposed into DMS at any temperature above 80C. During the boil, the DMS formed is volatilized. There may be some SMM left in the wort after the boil, depending on how long and how vigorously it is boiled. If you cover your urn during the hop stand, the DMS formed during cooling from 100C to 80C will condense on the lid and fall back into the wort. Best to leave the pot uncovered until the hop stand temperature has dropped below 80C, and then cover. I have typically put the lid on my kettle during the hop stand. Given I do not boil my partial mash wort very long, so that there is likely plenty of SMM left, I will start waiting with putting the lid on after adding the FO hops until the temperature is below 80C. Glad you asked the question @King Ruddager. Hope this helps. Cheers, Christina.
  14. According to this study, flameout additions are where it is at, in terms of increasing fruity flavours, more than dry hopping. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1094/ASBCJ-2017-2144-01?src=recsys Cheers, Christina.
  15. But hops can contribute DMS too, can't they? https://www.researchgate.net/publication/287458934_Volatile_Sulfur_Compounds_in_Hops_and_Residual_Concentrations_in_Beer_-_A_Review My understanding is that they are not an issue unless doing massive whirlpool / hop stand additions. Cheers, Christina.
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