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ChristinaS1 last won the day on February 12

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  1. By the CAMRA definition all bottle conditioned home brew is real ale. If you brew a Coopers Real Ale kit and bottle condition it, it is a Cooper Real Ale real ale. If you put it in a keg and force carbonate it, it is just a Coopers Real Ale. Regarding the greenish taste @dosdan, are you keeping your fermentation temps 18-20C? Are pitching enough yeast? If you are using LME or DME instead of a box of Coopers Brew Enhancer, you will need more than the 7g of yeast that comes with the kit. Even a pack of Mangrove Jack's yeast may struggle if the OG is much above 1.050. Cheers, Christina.
  2. Hi Dan. No, it is not supposed to emulate a commercial beer. PB2, the former moderator of the forum, once explained how it was named: Coopers pumped the IBUs up higher than what was common for the day. This was long before IPAs became popular. I use the APA kit as a base for most of my recipes. Great kit with a nice yeast (ale/lager blend). Cheers, Christina.
  3. Just did a bit of research and apparently manuka honey is the kind used to make medical grade honey. It seem there is a small risk of contracting botulism when treating wounds with raw honey. The other bit of caution is that honey should not be used to treat wounds in those who are allergic to bee stings. Cheers, Christina.
  4. Never heard of medical grade honey. Interesting that many types contain enzymes that produce hydrogen peroxide. At one time hydrogen peroxide was a staple of first aid kits, but it is no longer recommended, as it is quite harsh. Might be worth seeking out manuka honey for that reason. I worked as a volunteer nurse in a developing country back in the late 1980s. Medicine was alway in short supply. I often recommended people use honey to treat infected wounds and it worked like a charm. If people didn't have honey we used sugar instead, which was messier, but seem to work too. The literature at the time suggested the mechanism for both was high osmolarity. Cheers, Christina.
  5. Yes, the yeast that comes with the Coopers Lager kit is an ale yeast. You got Coopers Ale yeast to work at 10C? My guess is that you must be pitching warm and that it gets going before the temp of the wort gets below 18C. If you were pitching Coopers Ale yeast at 10C, I am pretty sure it would not get going. Yeast, not even lager yeast, will multiply much (if at all) below ~18C. This is why lager brewers who pitch cold make starters with +400B cells. Once a yeast gets going it creates its own heat via metabolic activity for 2-3 days, until the sugars are fermented out. Then metabolic activity slows and the temp of the brew falls to ambient temp. During the next phase the yeast are supposed to clean up the byproducts of fermentation. Depending on the yeast in question this will take a lot longer if the temp is below 18C. If the temp is too cold the yeast will go dormant. I find Coopers Ale yeast struggles <18C and goes dormant ~16C. Are you a kegger or a bottler @Pickles Jones? In my own experience, and that of many other brewers on this forum, Coopers Ale yeast will not carbonate bottles in winter if the temp of the beer is below ~18C. There are many threads with titles like, "Why is my beer flat?" Nottingham ale yeast will carbonate bottles down to around 15C, and lager yeast will carbonate colder still. If you have trouble with bottles not carbonating in winter try brewing with the kits that come with lager yeast (Euro Lager, Pilsner) or the ale/lager blend (APA and Mexican Cervesa), as the lager yeast will carbonate the bottles.
  6. Sorry @Tone boy I forgot to answer your question about temp: I always ferment the ale/lager yeast blend at 18C (recommended by Coopers) which keeps both sides of the family happy. Ferment too cool and the ale yeast will remain dormant and I would end up under-pitched (in terms of lager yeast). Dry lager yeast remains pretty clean at 18C. Cheers, Christina.
  7. I am not an expert on honey. I have only tried adding it at flameout, which should be hot enough to pasteurize it. Cheers, Christina.
  8. Hi @Tone boy. The honey does impart a noticeable flavour, but it is subtle. I am really digging brewing pseudo lagers and APAs with honey. This is nearly the last of the Moteuka from my bulk order. I am sad it is almost gone. I will order it again, but first I have to get through some of the other hops I ordered. Cheers, Christina.
  9. Just put this down. Continuing with my honey kick. Pseudo Honey Lager #2 1.7kg Coopers APA 750gm light LME 350g Honey 9.8% 750gm Vienna 300gm Horton Munich 200gm carapils 5.6% 15gm Mt Hood x 20 min 30gm Motueka x 5 min 10mL Clarityferm 14gm Coopers Ale/lager blend. 23L 15g each Mt Hood & Denali dry hop x 48 hours Cheers, Christina
  10. It does not affect the taste. It does affect the body (thins it). It will make your beer more like Mega swill, which often contain adjuncts as well. Cheers, Christina.
  11. <20% (by weight) sugar is not going to hurt anything and as @Tone boy mentioned helps to dry out the beer, if a drier beer is what you are after. If <20% of the fermentables is all you are using, it makes no difference whether you use dextrose or table sugar....Wait, that is not quite true: you get slightly more ABV from table sugar. I find dextrose overpriced and unnecessary as I never use more than 10% by weight. Many classic recipes use 10% of a characterful sugar like raw sugar, Demerara, Belgian Candi sugar, Lyle's Golden syrup, or honey. Table sugar is what I use for priming bottles. I have never tried using DME to prime bottles but have read it can make your bottles harder to clean. If you want to use sugar for >20% of the fermentable to save money, then dextrose is better than table sugar, as the yeast do not have to split it into its component parts first and it is easier for them to digest. You may also wish to use maltodextrin to build the body of the beer back up. This is what Coopers does with their "Brew Enhancers." For example BE1 contains a whopping 600gm dextrose and 400gm maltodextrin. Note that when calculating the percentage fermentables it is important to convert LME to its DME equivalent, as LME is ~20% water. Honey and Lyle's Golden syrup are also ~20% water, but as you are only using a small amount, most people don't bother taking this into account. 1.7kg kit x 0.80 = 1.36kg DME 1.36kg + 600gm + 400gm = 2.36kg 57.6% + 25.4% + 16.9% = 100% BE1 is the worst of the Brew Enhancers from a quality perspective. Considering the low cost of dextrose and maltodextrin, the profit margins on Brew Enhancers must be huge. Cheers, Christina.
  12. To make a wheat beer, next time use wheat DME and not light DME, and wheat yeast of course. Wheat malt extracts of all types (liquid / dry, bittered / unbittered) are usually only 60% wheat and 40% barley. If you use light DME you reduce the percentage of wheat by about half. A combo of a wheat kit and light DME, or an APA kit and wheat DME are good bases for NEIPAs, along with the appropriate yeast and hops. Cheers, Christina.
  13. You may find this thread interesting: Bottles are prone to developing an invisible biofilm, especially if you dry hop. Over time it builds up and can become visible to the naked eye, at which point It can be very difficult to remove. A brush and alkaline cleaner will not work at this stage; in my experience the only thing that will work is unscented bleach. I try to prevent biofilm from building up by giving my bottles an overnight soak with a capful of unscented bleach on a regular basis, after about every third use. If you don't overdo it with the bleach, a few rinses will get rid of the smell. Unless I have treated them with bleach that cycle, I sanitize my bottles with Starsan prior to each use. I like that it is no rinse. The rinsing issue is why I don't treat my bottles with an alkaline cleaner prior to each use. If bleach did not require rinsing I would use bleach all the time and stop sanitizing with Starsan. It is possible sodium metabisulphite might work as well as bleach but it too requires rinsing. Cheers, Christina.
  14. Never said that. I have never used cider kits/ concentrate, only real juice, so can't compare them.
  15. You are correct in the case of crystal and chocolate malt, but in the case of roasted barley and black patent the yield is about the same whether steeped or mashed, since most of the starch has been burned off. Not many gravity points in them. http://howtobrew.com/book/section-2/what-is-malted-grain/table-of-typical-malt-yields You will still get around 50-75% of the sugars out of chocolate and crystal malts steeping, vs mashing. Given they are usually used for <10% of the grist, it won't make that much difference. I have gotten away from using specialty malts myself. Cheers, Christina.
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