Jump to content

ChristinaS1

Coopers Club Members
  • Content Count

    3,949
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

ChristinaS1 last won the day on April 2

ChristinaS1 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

975 Outstanding

Recent Profile Visitors

918 profile views
  1. Way overpriced. I bought a floating dip tube identical to the one that comes with a Fermentasaurus for C$10 at my LHBS. Using it now. It does require you replace the long dip tube that comes with your keg with a short one. I bought a "gas in" tube on Amazon for the purpose. Came from China; two in the package for C$10. Cheers, Christina.
  2. Question. After fermentation is complete, do you see the needle on the pressure gauge drop? Mine has and this does not seem right. Wonder if there is a leak somewhere? What do you guys think?
  3. So the fermentation is going well. The new pressure gauge has fixed the spunding valve. I am using 15PSI this time. I have always used 8-10PSI in the past and am curious if I will be able to taste a difference. Have any of you? Something you can do with a spunding valve is check to see if you have a gas leak in your system: put in a high amount of gas and see if the needle drops. I want to try that sometime on my other two kegs. Cheers, Christina.
  4. Put this on today. It is kind of a hybrid, using ale yeast, Maris Otter, and brown sugar, but also lager yeast, and lager hops. They say Perle is dual purpose, but I have never seen it used as a late addition. Got the idea from an episode of Basic Brewing where they used it at FO. They found resembled soft fruits like apricot, plum, cantaloupe, (not overripe, not tropical, not citrusy). Should be interesting. Perle Lager (Spunded lager #5) 1.7kg Mexican Cervesa 1.1kg Maris Otter 34.9% 200gm Carapils 6.3% 150 gm brown sugar 4.8% 10gm Mt Hood x 20 minute boil 60gm Perle @ FO x 20 minutes stand. 10mL Clarity Ferm 17L RO water 14gm ale / lager yeast blend, dry pitched OG 1.047; FG 1.010; ABV 4.8% keg; IBU 38; EBC 7; BU:GU 0.82. Been having problems with my spunding ever since I accidentally attached it to the out post a few brews back, and wort backed up into it. Think it might be gummed up with sticky wort. I have been tinkering with it, and thought I had fixed it, but today I could hear gas escaping. Decided to go to my LHBS and buy another pressure gauge, on the off chance that was the problem, and not the PRV. Seems like it has fixed the leak. Fingers crossed. Time will tell. Cheers, Christina.
  5. @James Lao Sugar cane contains iron, so anything with molasses in it can impart a metallic tastes. I brewed a beer with molasses once. Tasted like rusty nails and ruined the beer. Used once and never again. There is a lot of information out there which says brown sugar and demerara sugar contain molasses. That may have been true in the past, but it is my understanding that most brown and demerara sugar produced today is coarse grained white sugar coated with a precise amount of refiner's syrup, a byproduct of the refinery, which does not contain iron. In my humble opinion that makes it better for brewing than true demerara sugar, which is less refined and contains native molasses. You need to check the website of the refiner to know for sure which you are getting, but sometimes you can get a hint from the bag. My bag is labelled "demerara-style" and the nutrition label doesn't provide a percentage of the recommended daily amount for iron; it says it is not a significant source of iron in the fine print. I got no hint of rust in my beer, just yummy caramel notes. True demerara might be more readily available in the UK, but I am not sure about that. Cheers, Christina. PS I looked into it before and recall that CSR demerara in Australia is made with refiner's syrup, not molasses.
  6. Question for the lager lovers out there: what is your favourite bitterness level for yellow lagers? Please express your answer in BU:GU. And please describe your late hop additions. Do you use a flameout addition and, if so, how many g/L, and for how long. Thanks in advance, Christina.
  7. Fridge space isn't an issue when you ferment under pressure. It is possible to ferment under pressure and bottle. Just open the spunding valve up wide during the D-rest and let all of the pressure come out of the the keg / Fermentasaurus. But if you are bottling, you still have to lager the bottles at cold temps after carbonation. Cheers, Christina.
  8. What a gorgeous keg Marty. Pressure fermentation is a beautiful thing! Cheers, Christina.
  9. Nothing at the moment Ocean. I have the ingredients in the house for my next brew but am waiting for my lager keg to blow, so that I can make another lager....I ferment lagers in a keg with a spunding valve, which is a quick and easy way to make a lager. Still trying to figure out if I like lagers. I have only made three so far. Cheers, Christina.
  10. Hey @Norris!. Thanks for your thoughts. I don't have much experience with lagers and am still trying to figure out how to make them. I brew them in a keg, under pressure. I have made three so far, all partials with a Mexican Cervesa kit base. With my last one I added 30g of Motueka with 5 minutes left in the boil and then added another 15g to the whirlpool, after the temp had dropped to 73C, and let it rest for 20 minutes. It was not dry hopped. The BU:GU was only 0.53 and I did not find it bitter enough. The other two had BU:GU in the low 0.70s, and I liked them better. I think I want to get the BU:GU up to 0.80....I keg hopped one of my lagers, and that one was probably my favourite. I will take your advice and use all 60gm of Perle at FO. Will use a little Mt Hood too, in the kettle, to boost the kit IBUs. Cheers, Christina.
  11. @DonPolo Sorry for the confusion re: brewer's yeast or bread yeast. Either would be fine. Use whatever you have, and which is cheaper. The main ingredient in Fermaid O and Fermaid K is autolyzed yeast, which is basically what ghost cells are. They provide organic nitrogen, B vitamins, and a few trace minerals. Nutritional yeast might work as well, but I have never used it. It is not something I keep in the house. I don't think I would add more yeast, as with that much yeast in the brew you may end up with a yeasty taste in the beer. If the gravity still does not budge after racking, I would go ahead and bottle it. @iBooz2 may be right that it is done. Don't think it would be necessary to reduce the priming sugar if you rack it first and wait for a couple of days. I don't think it is necessary to cold crash the beer if you rack it first. I doubt your balcony is cold enough for a proper cold crash, but it won't hurt to try. Just be sure to cover it, to protect it from UV. Even cloudy days have UV. If you can't rack and can't do a proper cold crash, then it may be prudent to reduce the priming sugar by 20-25% if you bottle in glass. If you bottle in PET, it is okay to prime at your usual rate. Good luck, Christina.
  12. Hope you don't mind if I piggyback onto your thread Ruddy. I am planning my next spunded lager. I have 60g of Perle, which is very German. I heard an episode of Basic Brewing radio where they used 3.7g/L of Perle in the whirlpool. They found it resembled soft fruits like apricot, plum, and cantaloupe, but it was not overripe, tropical, or citrusy; it had no spice. Sounded interesting for a lager, so I got some. After I got them home I smelled them (could not do so in the store due to COVID). Unfortunately they don't smell all that interesting to me, just generically hoppy. They may not live up to the promise. Not sure if I will use all 60g in the whirlpool, which works out to 3.5g/L with no dry hop (close to what they used), or split it and put 30g in the whirlpool and save 30g for keg hop (1.75g/L). Opinions? I have some Mt Hood in the house and will be adding some at 20 minutes to boost the bitterness of the kit. I could use more.... Cheers, Christina.
  13. Hi @DonPolo. I am having difficulty accessing my messages so will answer you here. If you the gravity is still higher than predicted despite warming it up and adding rehydrated yeast you could try is racking the beer to another vessel. This often works, provided the temp is warm enough. As an aside, Coopers dry ale yeast was derived from a distillers yeast and has a high alcohol tolerance, so it is a good choice for adding to a stalled brew, but it is a lousy choice if you are brewing below 18C. When brewing in winter, the night time temp can often drop below 18C. This can be problematic when making ales, both during fermentation and during carbonation. In terms of fermentation, the problem can be solved by using a heat belt plugged into an Inkbird temperature controller. In terms of carbonation, you either have to keep the bottles in a warm place, or deal with it through yeast choice. Winter is a good time to brew with the Mexican Cervesa and Australian Pale Ale kits, which come with an ale/lager yeast blend. If the temp drops below 18C, the lager portion will make sure the brew still ferments and carbonates. Nottingham yeast is pretty cold tolerant too. If you can't get the FG of this brew close to target, consider using less priming sugar. Cheers, Christina. PS Regarding brewers yeast, boiling some in water for a few minutes produces a great yeast nutrient called ghost cells, AKA yeast hulls. Yeast nutrient is not necessary when brewing an ordinary gravity ale, but it can be helpful when making high gravity brews, or when trying to get a stuck fermentation going again. Some people will add ghost cells first, to see if that will work, and if it doesn't, then adding fresh, rehydrated yeast a day or two later.
  14. I used to dry hop commando* and cold crashed for a week, trying to get the hops to drop out. What a bloody waste of time. When I started making spunded lagers I stumbled onto the benefits of short cold crashing and fining with gelatine, and do that with my ales too now. If I am fermenting in a keg, I will chill the keg first, then open it to add the gelatine and the dry hops (contained in something); the dry hops stay in until the keg is empty. If I am fermenting in a bucket, I dry hop to the bucket post-fermentation, for 3-4 days at ambient temp, then transfer to the keg, add the gelatine, and start the cold crash....I used to think it was necessary to chill the brew before adding the gelatine but some forum members told me that it is not necessary, so I tried it, and they were right. Now I just add the gelatine when it suits me. I read a study that dry hopping with pellets for six hours extracts about the same hop intensity as longer time frames, but I have actually moved the other way, from three to four days, after reading that is what they do at Heady Topper. First time I tried it I thought I noticed increased hop presence. Dry hopping rate might have something to do with it. Since my dry hopping rates are pretty low, I figure I need all the help I can get. Cheers, Christina. * I no longer dry hop commando.
×
×
  • Create New...