Jump to content

Lab Cat

Coopers Club Members
  • Content Count

    1,435
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Lab Cat last won the day on May 6

Lab Cat had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,131 Outstanding

Recent Profile Visitors

942 profile views
  1. Mate, you're a more experienced brewer than me. You know the only answer is to try it and see. I can't see much different between the ale strains you originally mentioned, but throwing a Belgian int would probably add something different. It depends on which yeast is more active I guess, as to which imparts more than the others.
  2. They're all shades of the same ale flavour aren't they? Hard to say what you'll get, but I'll be it'll be beer.
  3. Could rock get any softer? I prefer this version.
  4. Easily a year. Probably longer but never had any left after that time. I've some beers from last July that I didn't like. Totally fine, but I'm not drinking them and they haven't improved any. Hoppy pales will fade over time, and won't age or get better. Drink them early.
  5. That's what I'm supposing, how hard was that to understand? C'mon, even you agree few beers get below that.
  6. What? Using the EB kit to make a bitter that you haven't been able to make? I have a EB on hand and I'll be doing it with BE3, 500g of dark brown sugar and nothing else. The EB has plenty bitterness for me. Hoping the sugar adds some sweetness and toffee notes. And ABV.
  7. Why not try making a lager from it as you have the yeast and temp control? Bitter with some lager hops - saaz and hellertau. Read up on making a lager., it takes longer. The other FV can crank out the ales.
  8. You'd need to fully ferment everything for that to occur. I read it's not common, but getting below 1.000 means you have high alc which is less dense than water, so hence the low reading. Pretty unlikely with KK brews and standard ingredients.
  9. Never used a kolsch yeast, but it seems the obvious choice if you have it. Nottingham is also very neutral, fast and predictable fermenter.
  10. That's not how it works. While the Cooper family are prominent, they're hardly what you'd call globally famous. This is a beer. It's not a wine, where there is an established vintage and rare market for investors. It's got pretty limited interest and value beyond people who like the coopers story. As for ebay listings, people put Woolies Ooshies on ebay and price them at 10k, testing how dumb some people might be. It doesn't mean there's a viable market for such things. If it were mine, I'd drink it and keep the bottle as a conversation piece.
  11. When you have an external controller like the inkbird, your fridge comes an efficient, insulated box. Simply having a FV sitting on a heat pad isn't going to be very good at maintaining a stable, constant temp. The controller tells the fridge how cool to work at, and has a dual socket for a heating device. So in winter the cooling component of the fridge is used far less. But both will still work in tandem to keep the temp in the range set.
  12. Good tip. I always throw ice in before topping up my fermenter. Always find it easier to get close to the pitching temp.
  13. Same result either way I'd have thought. I boil and strain too. Brewers on here suggested that once boiled, there's nothing left in the hops, so no point in throwing it in the wort.
  14. Look at the description. Coopers are suggesting this is a beer a like single Fin. Not a hoppy beer., by any craft beer standards. 75g of hops is a decent amount, but very little of it is bittered (boiled) most is steeped off the boil and dry hopped. That provides flavour and aroma rather than bitterness and bite, and is far more subtle.
  15. Bulk prime. You can do it in the main fermenter, and find the right dose for your brew, regardless of the bottle size. I find it makes bottle day easier.
×
×
  • Create New...