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Lab Cat

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Everything posted by Lab Cat

  1. Fairy Nuff. Let us know how it goes. Can't think why it wouldn't work. I guess the trick may be to work out how much is enough?
  2. It just might be crazy enough to work. But with harvesting easier and the price of yeast, the effort to do so reminds me of the joke about copper wire being invented by Scotsmen fighting over a penny.
  3. This. ^ At this time of year my beer can take 2 weeks or more to carbonate, unless I get them to a consistently warm spot in the house. In summer, 2-3 days. I haven't CC for a long time, but started again as I bulk prime now, so need a well set trub before stirring in sugar. No difference at all in how the beer carbonates IME
  4. Grab the cooper recipes spreadsheet. You can sort it by kit and find the real ale recipes easily. someone will have a link for it.
  5. Sanitised cloth dropped in the FV works fine. Leave it for 3 or so days, and squeeze it out. Not many on here rack off to a 2nd FV, it seems a US thing. I've never seen a need. I didn't use to bother crashing, and you don't have to. I have started doing it again because I now bulk prime in my FV, and getting the trub cold sets it, so it doesn't stir up when I stir in the sugar mix. BP isn't necessary for mixing the hops. The main reason is I have 4 different sizes of bottles so only have to sugar the FV with a single dose. This is a good time of year in Perth to ambient brew, but as soon as it warms up, you'll have issues. There are cooling/heating bodges, but it involves babysitting your FV and checking temp regularly. I CBF, so got an old fridge and controller. It's well worth it.
  6. Yes, I'd add dex if all you want is to up the ABV. It won't do much to the recipe, like say, 500g of malt would. It's already a toucan though, so another 500g fermentables may need a bit more yeast. Others would know better about that.
  7. Sure, but that's a variable I can get from ingredients, or increasing the ferment temp, although Notts is still pretty neutral at its upper range.
  8. I never thought that. EB flavour comes from letting the malt flavours dominate, so a neutral yeast works best to let your ingredient decisions do their thing. I use Nottingham for all my ales, including EB. I think it's a beer style where you don't need add the variable of yeast. I leave that to yeasts that are meant to impose a style on the beer - like wheat and Belgians.
  9. Your Fullers reference reminded me of the post I did on the coopers Scotch Ale recipe. For me, the nearest thing reminiscent of Fullers bigger beers that I can remember. Maybe some Brambling added to that? I'm doing it a again soon, but will lightly bitter it this time, just to take a bit of sweetness off.
  10. Same here, won't use it again it was awful. Not had the same from Demerara though, although most Aus supermarket Demerara is probably just darker brown sugar.
  11. We'll have to see how hot Miranda is at 56...
  12. Maybe leave it for another gravity check tomorrow. Airlocks lie. I'm glad I never used one starting out, it would have confused me. Hydrometers are you only truth.
  13. I'm not impressed by my Real tbh. It's super bland. I did mine with Amber malt and some crystal, goldings and golden syrup. I thought it would be better.
  14. It's not extract in the bottom, it's yeast and trub.
  15. Fermentation in unlikely to be still active after a week. You need to use a hydrometer to check that, and not trust airlocks. co2 can escape and keep them bubbling. Yeast can only work on the sugars that are present in the wort. When ferment is finished, it has converted all the sugars. According to the recipe, you should have added the coconut during the main ferment, at day 3 or so. Again, trust the hydrometer, not the krausen - I've had some krausen hang around til bottling day. By adding coconut now, you may be forcing the fermenting process to start up again, and this may not be reliable in fermenting it.
  16. I wouldn't be worried about lifting the lid - that's hardly an infection worry. I do it to drop in a hop bag and fish it out, give it a squeeze before leaving the wort to settle before bottling, all sanitised hands of course. Never had any infections. I think you just got unlucky and got a bad yeast, or maybe your kit was out of date, which means the yeast will be too. The wort was way too dark for the Euro. I still only brew KK but rarely use the tin yeast, not becasue they're suss, but I find others more reliable and predicable in action. For ales it's Nottingham bought fresh, or harvested from a brew and kept in the fridge and used a few times. For other beers, I'll buy a style specific yeast - wheat, Belgian etc
  17. Yep, need to know your ingredients and process first.
  18. I've brewed this before with no issues. Brewing again, to the recipe as before. This time it's stuck on 1.020 after5 days, hasn't moved since Saturday. Yesterday I put the temp up to 24 but it's not moved. Last time I did this it got to the Ianh predicted 1.010, and it should with 2 Belgian yeasts in it, even if they are lower attenuation. Any ideas what the issue is? I've added a little Nottingham slurry, I'm not bottling it at 1020 and this is the only thing I can think of.
  19. Citra is a high AA hop. Maybe in smaller quantities it could be good? I found the same with Mosaic - bittered and steeped it was too much for me in a pale, but dry hopped it worked better. I used Amarillo in a pale once and didn't like it. This is the thing with hops, you can get advice, but you'll only get people's preferences. You'll probably have to do the leg work with lone hops yourself and see what you like.
  20. The recipe calls for 2.5kg's added fermentables, that's why you need 2 yeasts. One will struggle to get through them all and likely stall. It doesn't matter whether you use the kit, or US05.
  21. There's only so much you can get from staff that work for Jelly Cups...
  22. I'd say so. It's not going to make better beer. It's just harder wearing. Plenty of AG brewers will use plastic fermenters. Experience makes better beer, not gear.
  23. I definitely noticed choc malt grain when I did it in a dark beer, but too dark and roasty for me. The Crystal hasn't seemed to do anything...
  24. Well, they both sell em to do the same beer style... I have thrown on an Abbey Blonde today. I omitted the Crystal steep last time, and it was a great beer. Have brewed it to the recipe this time. Haven't felt grain steeps do anything, but so far they've gone into first time brewed beers that turned out crap, and the Yorkie Square, which was nothing special, but quaffable.
  25. I'm trying steeps again, only because a few the recipes I'm doing call for them, so I'm using up the rest of the kg I bought. Pale crystal is used in all sorts of beers, so it can't hurt. Can't see what they add though TBH. The Brown ale kit hasn't benefited from it at all, if it's supposed to add some flavour. I can't see why the Real ale is such a bland dud. I added Amber liquid, did a short boil and dry hopped Goldings, 200g steeped crystal and 250g Golden Syrup. Not a recipe, but you'd think that could be a decent beer with some flavour. But there's just nothing there, no malt backbone, nothing. Sorry to hear that. Gives me the shits when I do a recipe and it sucks. I also forgot about the Smooth bitter I did - so that 5 fails. What a rank beer that is. I think Coopers should specify you shouldn't use the darkest horriblest molasses extract like I did - Blackstrap. There's no way they'd put up a recipe, unless there's a market for bitters the flavour of dry rusted metal. A potential saving is mixing and matching though. The rusty bitter is quite drinkable when mixed with the bland Real ale. I need to find a way to drink some of this stuff as I've no spare frickin bottles left.
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