Jump to content
Coopers Community

What's in your fermenter? 2019


Recommended Posts

19 hours ago, Lab Rat said:

I kept mine to 1kg of LDM, the Artisan recipe is for 1.5kg. I pitched the Euro lager yeast as well as the W34, instead of the 2 x 34/70 in the recipe.

Well if you used 2/3 of the Malt you will be getting closer to XXXX and Carlton Draught... the more water the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, ChristinaS1 said:

34/70 brewed around 21C will likely provided a lower FG and fewer esters than an ale yeast at the same temperature.

My guess is that if you pitched an ale yeast at lager rates and brewed it at 18C it would likely taste similar to 34/70 pitched at ale rates and brewed at 21C. I suspect Jamil Zainasheff double pitches his ales to reduce esters.

Lager yeast don't produce many esters. 

Lower FG and fewer Esters I believe is what I am chasing. That sounds positive.

I suspect that US05 at Lager pitch rates at 18 deg C will not taste similar to 34/70 at Ale pitch rates but am keen to investigate further.  I believe that the Yeast type has such a big impact, that despite pitching rates, the differences will be marked due to their characteristic different metabolic outputs.  But I am may be wrong.

My limited experience with Dampfbier and Ale at same temps 18 degC and same wort in same brew-fridge showed they threw such different final beers it was amazing.

I think it would be great to try the 21 deg experiment with as similar Grist as possible and with US05 and see what the difference is.   I think it would produce a very nice Ale... but not have the same flavour profile as W34/70 that being such a lovely yeast which hopefully will look after my brew nicely even at the higher temperature ?   🤔

 

 

Edited by Bearded Burbler
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might not produce as many esters as an ale yeast but it might produce more than it does at 10-12 degrees. It will reach a lower FG regardless of fermentation temperature, simply because lager yeast generally ferment more thoroughly anyway. 

I fermented a German lager with US-05 at 16 degrees once just to see what it would be like compared to W34/70, and it was similar but didn't have that true lager flavour. A little more fruity as well. 

I also did a pilsner with 1469 because of a cube explosion, and it too didn't taste the same as the 2001 I was using at the time in those beers.

I don't have any plans to ferment any lagers at ale temps myself. I don't know how the 2278 would react at those temps and I'm not prepared to risk getting 19 litres of beer I don't particularly enjoy just to see what happens, especially after spending 7 hours making the wort.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  On 12/3/2019 at 5:23 AM, Bearded Burbler said:

I am hoping that I can sneak a Lager in at the warmer temp, that tastes like a Lager.  I would have much rather done my 'warm' Lager experiment at 18... but I have to go with what I have in terms of temps at the moment.

If you don't have enough fridge space to ferment at lager temperature another option is to ferment at ambient temperature under pressure, using a spunding valve. Fermenting under pressure stunts yeast growth, similar to how fermenting cool does. 

27L batches can be fermented under pressure in a Fermentasaurus and 17L batches in a keg. I am about to try fermenting in a keg for the first time myself, as soon as I have a keg free. 

My LHBS has switched from carrying Wyeast to WLP and now liquid lager yeast is only a $2-3 more than a pack of dry lager yeast. They only carry three liquid lager yeasts. Might give it a go with this spunded batch, with a Shaken Not Stirred starter. Trying to decided between WLP830 and WLP802. Leaning towards WLP802, but am open to suggestions. 

Cheers,

Christina.

Edited by ChristinaS1
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After a bit of a break, a Pale.

BR pale ale can, for a change.

Cooper Liq malt, 500g LDM, 20g mosaic @ 15, 20g Cascade @ 10. Steep of 30g each for a hour as I had to go and do stuff.  US05 + kit yeast. Looked good on the IanH sheet for IBUs and hit the predicted OG on the button.

Just trying something out. Strained the hop/malt steep into the FV with a sanitised chux. Sparged and squeezed that and put it in the fridge. Will dry hop with it. May not do anything, hops might be spent.

 

 

Edited by Lab Rat
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My WLP059/Mt. Hood Pale Ale reached expected FG a couple of days ago. Very fast ferment. It's started to clear already, so I thought what heck, throw the dry hop in.

Mt. Hood is quite earthy, herbal, resiny so I might actually leave the dry hop in for a few extra days longer to maybe catch a bit of that grassy tone that I normally deliberately avoid with the more aromatic hops as I think that trait might actually suit this beer due to the hop & yeast being used.

However it turns out, I'm really looking forward to sampling it, & am glad I brewed it.

Cheers & good brewing,

Lusty.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Lab Rat.

18 hours ago, Lab Rat said:

...Steep of 30g each for a hour as I had to go and do stuff. 

I'm interested in this area. While the steep is going on is your wort sitting around as well, or do you mix it together after? Is the steep in a malt solution or just water?

The reason I ask is that if a sugar source is sitting around & gets down into the low 40's & below temp wise, it becomes vulnerable to spoilage organisms, bacteria & wild yeasts.

I learned this the hard way a number of years back with a couple of infected brews that I attributed to this. Once I stopped leaving the wort around for lengthy timeframes, no more infections. Given all the effort & coin we put into our brewing, tipping 20+ litres of hard work down the drain isn't very satisfying to do.

If you're not leaving mixed wort around while you carry out the steep then please disregard the above. But to those that are doing this, I would definitely advise you re-assess your processes & time-frames to avoid this situation in future.

Cheers & good brewing,

Lusty.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Lab Rat said:

No wort. Started mixing that when I got back.

That said, it is still vegetal matter & probably not advisable to leaving it laying around that long. As an example, would you eat cabbage that has been sitting around for the same time-frame steeped?

Food for thought anyways (excuse the pun).

Lusty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Beerlust said:

I fermented a couple of extra litres on this one so if it is any good I'll send you one Norris. 😉

I truly appreciate it. My next batch is, wait for it...another pale ale, I will send you some. It will have horizon as a fwh and then galaxy, Amarillo and citra cubed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Norris! said:

I truly appreciate it. My next batch is, wait for it...another pale ale, I will send you some. It will have horizon as a fwh and then galaxy, Amarillo and citra cubed.

Sounds nice Norris. It'll be a nice change off the NEIPA bandwagon. 😜

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always brewed pale ales for as long as ive on and off home brewed which is about 10 years now. If I ever buy beer its always pale ale type beers, the hoppier the better. I recently ordered yeast from cheapyeast and threw in a T-58 in as the peppery description had me.

I put on the coopers dark monk yesterday as my first brew where the yeast adds some flavour (besides my kveik experiment recently). OG 1056 its currently fermenting at 20c with a nice thick krausen which started to show after only 12 hours from pitching the dry yeast. Im pretty excited about this brew hopefully this opens up a new world of beer to me!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ESB is in, minute or so of oxygen before pitching yeast, current temp about 16.5 and slowly rising. It will ferment at 18 for the first 3-4 days then be raised to 21 to finish up. Got just over 25 litres in, OG 1.0478 so should be looking at 4.8-5% ABV depending on the FG. 

The pilsner will be dosed with isinglass and polyclar during the week, before being kegged Saturday week. Should be able to get the ESB kegged a day or two later since that 1469 seems to rip through it when oxygen is used, so both of them will be on tap for Christmas or at least boxing Day. 

Following those two, yesterday's pale ale and another lager of some sort will go in. Thinking that one will use up what I have left of the Saaz and Hallertau together, with some German magnum to top up the bitterness. Hopefully I can get another sack of pilsner malt before that brew is made, don't think it'll taste quite right using Maris otter to make up the rest. Just beginning to make more distilled water for the next couple of batches as well. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/5/2019 at 10:59 AM, Beerlust said:

Maybe a steam beer?

That was the point re Dampfbier up above...  Dampf = Steam.

On 12/4/2019 at 7:49 PM, Bearded Burbler said:

My limited experience with Dampfbier and Ale at same temps 18 degC and same wort in same brew-fridge showed they threw such different final beers it was amazing.

The W3068 pitched brew tasted very much closer to Wheat Beer even though it was a Barley Wort and the IPA that I did with the other half of the same Wort tasted very good re IPA characteristics done with US05. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/5/2019 at 11:56 PM, ChristinaS1 said:
  On 12/3/2019 at 5:23 AM, Bearded Burbler said:

I am hoping that I can sneak a Lager in at the warmer temp, that tastes like a Lager.  I would have much rather done my 'warm' Lager experiment at 18... but I have to go with what I have in terms of temps at the moment.

If you don't have enough fridge space to ferment at lager temperature another option is to ferment at ambient temperature under pressure, using a spunding valve. Fermenting under pressure stunts yeast growth, similar to how fermenting cool does. 

27L batches can be fermented under pressure in a Fermentasaurus and 17L batches in a keg. I am about to try fermenting in a keg for the first time myself, as soon as I have a keg free. 

My LHBS has switched from carrying Wyeast to WLP and now liquid lager yeast is only a $2-3 more than a pack of dry lager yeast. They only carry three liquid lager yeasts. Might give it a go with this spunded batch, with a Shaken Not Stirred starter. Trying to decided between WLP830 and WLP802. Leaning towards WLP802, but am open to suggestions. 

Lucky re less expensive liquid yeast - that is gold.  Sorry I can provide no help re what WLP is good...

And I do have a SS Vat that seals well so maybe I should try a spunded Lager in future - that sounds good.  Thanks!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a brew day today, and to make way for that wort had to empty a FV... 

So today was my first go at a Natural Carb in the Keg...  Golden Ale...

200g of Dex added to approx. 19L...  and will let ferment at 21 or so - am interested to see how it all turns out in the New Year. 

Had to bottle the remainder and it reminded me how easy Kegging makes life!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I reckon you've probably added about 120g too much dextrose to that. Keg priming is about half what you'd use in bottles. 

Wooo. Thanks Kelsey - that's a good pickup.  I just went off the Bottle ratios...  Thanks mate.

So what may I expect?  Outrageous frothing and overcarbonation?  I could do a few releases as we go along?

Or is it just a bit more alc and unnecessary levels of carb that mean I can pour for a while without topping the keg up with gas?

Any additional advice or precautions on serving?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...