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Norris!

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Norris! last won the day on March 6

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  1. Norris!

    First brew questions & where to next?

    It depends on the style and ingredients. You don't want to wait 4 months to drink a super hoppy beer or a beer that is built around hops and little malt influence, like the fruit salad ale. You would want to drink that early and not let it go past 3+ months, in my opinion. True lagers and generally most dark beers are a different story. They have a lot of malt influence and you want that to shine so drinking those after 2 weeks is kind of not the idea. Let those beers age for a month, at least after carbonation, and they will get SO much better with time. As for how long the homebrew will last, if you keep them in a stable environment out of light with little to no temp swings you will be able to keep them for over a year. I made a batch back in 2004, I only made 2 batches, they were good, but the LHBS closed down, anyways, I made the batch and then deployed for a year. When me and the platoon got back we cracked them and they were lovely. It was an Amber ale, the LHBS owner made the recipe for me and I brewed it, I had no idea what I was doing, but it worked! Because that beer was based around the malt it simple improved with time. So it was probably sitting for about 13 to 14 months. Cheers, Norris
  2. Norris!

    80 Batches and still going strong

    I am up to batch 38 since starting on 18th March 2017. 1 kit with hop tea or dry hop 8 kit and grains with hop boils 12 fwk ginger beer. The ease and how great a beer it made, blew my mind 12 - 38 same, partial mashes, kits and bits and fwk. I really was focused on making a beer I loved to drink, so I put down a lot of pale ales and the like, XPA tropical ale whatever to refine and try to be able to make a beer consistently. 30 - 38 Yeast reusing. This has saved some dough and allowed me to get a little yeast stash going. Joystick, Nottingham, M44, and M42. I have been pretty happy with the beers I have making and keeping the kegs filled while the time has been kept to a minimum. So I like where I am at, not sure If I will ever go AG. But time will tell. Cheers Norris
  3. Norris!

    Nice Summer Beer Recipe

    Ah I see why you only did 300g of malt or whatever as that was the boil size. I failed to mention to add more malt to the fermenter with boiled hops and malt and the kit, sorry Mark. Even if I do just a 300g boil I always add the remaining malt to get me to the alcohol level I want. Google Ian's spreadsheet which will help you make recipes and tell you what to kind of expect.
  4. We will see, we will see. I picked the swans last night so who knows. I felt that if the demons scored over 90 points the swans were done, but I should of followed through but my tips were/are in so no going back now! BULLDOGS!!!
  5. Norris!

    Nice Summer Beer Recipe

    With the kit 1.7kg and 333g of malt it will only be a mid. Adding more dextrose now or malt SHOULD/MAYBE be fine, most people add the additional malt or dextrose a little earlier, for the yeast to eat through it and restart fermentation, but it might affect the flavour you like now, later. Add this to your knowledge stash, a kit and kilo of malt will get you about 1.040 OG which is ~4% alcohol. Anything less will be, well less alcohol. I would probably just let this finish up since you already dry hopped. As the for the no rinse sanitiser it should be ok, but honestly I always rinse sodium percorbonate off with hot water, but from my understanding it should convert to oxygen after a while anyways....someone will correct me if I am wrong. Either way, you have done it and I guess we trust the label and see. Glad your are getting good aroma and flavour! Hope it bottles well and tastes good in! Well done Mark. Cheers Norris
  6. Or I guess that game is tonight...Wow I am beat! Still will age another day, is that really aging...The in-laws are down at the game so it will be me and a Balter tonight...maybe one more Professor before bed.
  7. I had a sneaky glass of the Professor Simarillo and the Azacca Warrior tonight, it has only been 3 days carbonating so it is a little green but tasty. I am getting a fair whack of orange citrus flavours coming through with some nice pine dankness. It was a little cloudy,cannot tell in the picture 🤣. I did a side by side taste test with a Balter XPA, obviously not the same beer but close to whatever style the XPA is. Good beer now to let it age a little...24 hours until the Doggies eat the Magpies.
  8. Norris!

    BREW DAY!! WATCHA' GOT, EH!? 2019

    Cheers Lusty. Your recipe looks amazing, might be something I try in a brew or two. I have been wanting to use some kolsch yeast due to what it brings to the beer but haven't been game enough...and been saving dollars reusing yeast. Cheers for the explanation. Norris
  9. Norris!

    Just bottled my first brew.

    You can use a wet towel or shirt wrapped around the fermenter until then, it helps keep the temp down.
  10. Norris!

    BREW DAY!! WATCHA' GOT, EH!? 2019

    Is Ella like Chinook but with more tropical notes?
  11. Norris!

    What is an XPA??

    I saw this on Cheeky Peaks site it made me laugh.
  12. Norris!

    Flameout Hop Additions

    So I keep the HCF off because I feel that for my brewing methods the tinseth formula is the most accurate, but that depends on boil temp and strength, two brewers with the same wort and same hops won't get the same bitterness. I also keep it off because bitterness is an estimate that for most beers I brew, under 40 IBUs, the possible difference with a 10l boil vs 25l boil and the hops timing shouldn't affect the outcome to much, especially if you do mostly 15 minutes and down. My last reason for keeping it off is because I felt that with it on I was getting to much bitterness. In Mitchell's case if he had the HCF on he would of added more hops which would of increased the bitterness, which is not what he wanted, so it is kind of pointless worrying about whether it should be on our off as it extracted more bitterness than he wanted with it off. As for his bitterness levels BU:GU ratios, most of my beers are not balanced, nor do I want them to be, unless I am trying to get a style down or something like an old school lager. If someone wants to brew a beer with 20ibus like a stone and wood Pacific ale then cool go get it, but once again his brew was too bitter already, so that is not the avenue to look down. I also feel that the BU:GU ratio is a tool that I look at for 2 seconds and move on, unless I see a red flag I don't stop, a red flag would be some crazy number like 0.20 or something. A lot of ales I like and brew have crazy ratios that maybe 10 or 15 years ago would make people laugh/cry, in fact I am unsure if I ever brewed a 1:1 ratio beer. For my brewery and tastes I hover between 0.5 and 0.8 BU:GU ratio with huge flameouts and dry hops. So with that said, I think there are a few options, cut the flameout additions and just drop them in for 5 minutes, I think Ian's spreadsheet goes in 5 or 3 minute intervals for adjusting the bitterness. Then cool the wort as soon as possible and add flameout hops below 80c. Get beersmith or another software, Headmaster had a nice one brewcipher I think, I never used it but you get the idea. They calculate flameout additions. You have to remember that each brewery is different so until you figure yours out you will hit and miss on bitterness until then. So estimate on the low side until you get it. Cheers Norris
  13. Norris!

    Flameout Hop Additions

    Also, so glad it turned it out tasty! Next time you can always try a Mexican cerveza kit and just do a flameout addition, light or after the temp has dropped below 80c, it will make a quick, easy and tasty drop that already has the low bitterness from the kit. Norris
  14. Norris!

    Flameout Hop Additions

    You would use the same amount for wheat or for light dry malt, for a 10l boil it would need about 950g to have a gravity of 1.040ish.
  15. Norris!

    Flameout Hop Additions

    So on Ians spreadsheet near the bottom it says malt amount needed to hit 1.040, but a general rule is 100g for each liter of water, but I think it is closer to like 900-930g for a 10l boil, but that is a rough guess. I am sorry I didn't tell you to use the proper amount of malt for the last batch to get it to 1.040 for the boil, the lower gravity would extract more bitterness than expected and possibly harsher also.
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