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BlackSands last won the day on July 25

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  1. It's perhaps worth noting that Sodium Percarbonate is only active for 5 or 6 hours. Something to bear in mind next time you do a soak.
  2. Partial mash beers brewed in Auckland, New Zealand. Featuring Coopers kits, Gladfield Malts and a wide selection of hops.
  3. Yeah... the brew currently conditioning was fermented with Notty. It appears to be crystal clear with only a day and a half CC. I chilled a bottle right down to see if it was going to throw up a chill haze but it's looking pretty good at fridge temp. As an aside, I often read folks making claims about their wonderful beer clarity, many claiming such without the need for finings or CC. The extent of the beer's clarity doesn't mean a whole lot unless the temperature is also specified. I think most brewers can easily achieve crystal clear beer at room temperature but it's how it looks at serving temperature that's important. And, 'serving temperature' itself is a variable. English brewers for example probably tend to judge their ale's clarity at 10 - 14ºC! I consider fridge temp (say 4 -5ºC) as a a more applicable reference temperature for judging clarity. My current brew used M42 yeast but I have a hunch it will be very similar to Notty given that the two strains could well be the same yeast, however it's not just the yeast that CC is settling out. It's more those stubborn chill-haze forming compounds that are problematic for clarity. Anyway, I have plans to get another brew going so the CC on this one will be a short one too. If I can get the job done with the beers I brew in a day or two then there's really no point in tying the fridge up unnecessarily!
  4. Calibration was the first thing I did when I got my Inkbird. There was a 0.7ºC difference between it and a digital thermometer for starters but I of course adjusted the calibration so that it reflected the actual beer temperature while it's sensor probe was taped to the side of the FV. This however isn't perfect because it appears to be non-linear as the temperature drops. I just discovered the temperature differential between the actual beer and probe was close to 2ºC at fermentation temps but the difference between sensor and beer temp was only a little over 1ºC at CC temps. There's a number of variables in all this of course and one of them will be the effectiveness of whatever insulation you use on your temperature sensor probe when strapping it to the side of your FV. In practice is not really a big deal, as long as it's pretty close at fermentation temps, but perhaps something to be aware of when you are calibrating.
  5. Excellent point! Anyway, watched a bit of telly an then added the gelatine. Beer at target temp of 1ºC.
  6. Actually... I did think of that! Where I live it was a chilly 12ºC when I first kicked this CC off today. "Warmed" up to 15ºC later in the day but in all seriousness ambient temps could be a factor though I think the fridges insulation would largely nullify that. I do however think, based on my experience that bypassing your fridges thermostat is a really good idea for all those that use a fridge (as opposed to freezer). At 10 hours my brew is now at 1.8ºC down from 20ºC. I think that says it all. Much quicker cooling than others (i.e. Otto) have reported. Of course I guess you could argue... 'what's the hurry?"
  7. Compared to the cask ales I was drinking in the UK recently ALL my homebrew is super-carbonated! I didn't observe a single CO2 bubble in any of those English beers.
  8. 9hrs | 4.0ºC (FV probe 3.0ºC) Got the controller set to 1ºC. Looks like I'll be adding the gelatine around midnight!
  9. 8hrs | 5.5ºC (FV probe 4.1ºC) Looks like the beer will be in the CC 'zone' by the time 10 hours is up. I was thinking to get as close to freezing as possble but just read that this could compromise yeast health... not what I want for bottle conditioning/carbonation...
  10. I get similar comments from one particular taster too. Calls it 'dead' beer. He likes the ultra-fizzy megaswill type beers so I guess in comparison mine are less lively.
  11. No, not in my case. I monitored the actual beer with a digital thermometer - one with a long wire and small probe. 10-ish hours to get to set temperature. Possibly one thing that is helping is that I bypassed the fridges thermostat which at the coldest temperatures was actually conflicting with the temperature controller. My controller was set to 1ºC but the fridges thermostat on it's lowest setting seemed to first cut out when it was only down at 5 or 6ºC. A fridges thermostat should go as low as 0ºC but they're certainly not precision devices and they do have a very wide thermal hysteresis. Since I bypassed the thermostat I've had no problem getting my beer temperature right down in a relatively short time. However, just so I can substantiate this claim, I'm currently measuring a CC I started 2.5hours ago. The beer was at around 20ºC and is now at 14.2ºC. Let's see how it goes...
  12. "The process involves lowering the temperature of the beer very quickly to near-freezing and holding it for about 24 hours." - Northern Brewer "If your goal is crystal clear beer, a month should be plenty of time to achieve that." - foodbeerstuff.com I've just been looking into CC duration recommendations and quickly discovered a very wide variance in opinion. I know here on this forum 7 days is quite commonly suggested but elsewhere 3-4 days seems to be more the norm. Because I'm in a bit of a hurry trying to build up stock I did a very short CC on my last brew. 10 hours to cool and then around a day and a half of actual CC @0.5ºC, fined with gelatine. I figured that was better than nothing! I'd read that if you can get it as close to freezing as possible you can cut your CC time right down. That beer has been in bottles 5 days now and after an initial carbonation period in my brew fridge @20ºC they are now in the garage which is currently sitting at 12ºC. It's cold this morning! Anyway I notice the beer was crystal clear after a day with barely any visible sign of sediment in the bottles. They still have a wee way to go with carbonation but having been fermented with Nottingham I'm sure even at these current chilly Winter temps they will get there in another week or two. Out of curiosity I placed one in the beer fridge which is currently CC'ing a subsequent brew. I wanted to see if it was going to throw up any hint of chill haze at sub-serving temps. It appears not. On the face of this it does seem I need only CC (with gelatine) for a day as Northern Brewer suggest in their quote above - maybe two days just to be sure. Those that routinely CC for a week - presumably your experience differs?
  13. Active fermentation can get pretty stinky - the aromatic nature and intensity of which seems to be related to a number of factors, yeast strain being one of them. Often when I open my brew fridge I'm hit with a wave fouled air! If you're worried I'd suggest just sample the beer itself and see how it's doing.
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