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It's Kegging Time 2021.


Pale Man

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43 minutes ago, Graubart said:

Agree with Red @Aussiekraut AK and as @Popo Popo suggest I would use the the lines as long as they are... you can cut them later if that was necessary. 

The good people at CPB told me to use 3.5m with my Pluto Guns and I have found that to be good for my basic system.

And as @Red devil 44 Red advises it stops frothing - at the tap... 

(I believe it is all about developing the appropriate 'friction loss' line resistance to prevent gas coming out of solution in the line between the tap and the keg itself - but happy to be corrected)

 

Cheers Bro. You know I know bugger all about all of this but I'm confident I'll get there eventually. I have all the knowledge needed right here in the forum 🙂 

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1 hour ago, Red devil 44 said:

Correct @Aussiekraut, if you wanted individual pressure you would need in line Regulators for each keg .

‘They are long so the beer doesn’t froth up coming out of the tap, I think from memory my lengths are 2m. I just coil  them up and throw a cable tie around the keg, your delivery lines to your taps have to be higher than the kegs to stop friction in the line ( causing froth ) when pouring, Hope this helps mate. 

I'll see how I go. If in doubt, I will get a few more duo tight connectors and extend the lines.

I'll tackle the gas lines tomorrow, so expect to hear from me 😂

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Just now, CLASSIC said:

You will be drinking beer from the new machine in no time 😀

Man-Drinking-Beer-62719.gif

I hope so 🙂 The beer for the first 2 kegs is still in the FV but will go in on Saturday...once I figured out the best way to put it in the kegs that is 🙂 

 

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1 minute ago, Aussiekraut said:

I hope so 🙂 The beer for the first 2 kegs is still in the FV but will go in on Saturday...once I figured out the best way to put it in the kegs that is 🙂 

 

Have the fermenter higher than the keg as I assume you will be gravity feeding.

Make yourself a transfer line, eg- cut some clear hose you have roughly the length from the FV to 50mm from the bottom of the keg, the plastic tube you have for filling bottles, cut about 50mm of it, fit it into your transfer line with a hose clamp. This will enable you to transfer from FV to keg.  Just used mine so a bit grubby from hop matter.

Here is an example mate 

CA34F924-C1B9-442F-A5F7-F4D0CB90B8AA.jpeg

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when i  go from the coopers FV    i run a tube with a quick disconect  and conect to the out post  of the keg

i sit the keg on some scales  empty with the lid on ready to go and  tare the keg to zero

open tap  and it runs nicely  into fermenter    and when it reaches 19kg   i take the disconnect off as well as the fv tap

this minimise oxygen  in the keg


if i am using my  snubby or fermzilla   , i just use a 4mm line  to  2 disconnects and push the beer to keg  with gas connected to the FVs

and i also use the scales like  i did with the coopers part..



Another hint  

while carbonating connect your gas line to the out post   this way the wort will absorb  co2 easier  
once  you have carbonated  change it back to the in post  and  pour from the out post..


once you get it all dialed in  , your not going to look back

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2 hours ago, ozdevil said:

when i  go from the coopers FV    i run a tube with a quick disconect  and conect to the out post  of the keg

+1

That's exactly what I do.  Send your beer down the beer out post on your keg for gods sake.  What are you blokes thinking.  The infrastructure is already there, no need to drop any tube into the the keg to get beer to the bottom of the bloody keg there is already one there, a SS dip tube one.

Don't leave the lid off the keg either, just lift the PRV valve key-ring and turn it 90 degrees so it sits on top of the PRV plastic step to allow the purged CO2/Atmosphere to vent from the keg whilst it is filling.  when the beer starts coming out of the PRV shut it off.  OR You will have to keep this closed/off/in the normal PRV position if using the auto-shut off method below otherwise beer will go everywhere.

I don't use scales at all, because I cold crash my beers I can see where the incoming beer level is by the condensation on the outside of the keg.  Lately I have been using one of those keg filler gadgets from KL that you put onto the gas post ball lock of the kegs, it allows the flow of outgoing CO2/Atmosphere but as soon as the beer gets up to the top a little white ball floats up and blocks off the beer flow which stops filling dead in its tracks, and you do not even have to be nearby or watch it.  Then you can disconnect all lines as the keg is as full as a state school dunny can.  Force carb it over 18 - 23 hours and Bobs your uncle.

Edited by iBooz2
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22 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

+1

That's exactly what I do.  Send your beer down the beer out post on your keg for gods sake.  What are you blokes thinking.  The infrastructure is already there, no need to drop any tube into the the keg to get beer to the bottom of the bloody keg there is already one there, a SS dip tube one.

Don't leave the lid off the keg either, just lift the PRV valve key-ring and turn it 90 degrees so it sits on top of the PRV plastic step to allow the purged CO2/Atmosphere to vent from the keg whilst it is filling.  when the beer starts coming out of the PRV shut it off.  OR You will have to keep this closed/off/in the normal PRV position if using the auto-shut off method below otherwise beer will go everywhere.

I don't use scales at all, because I cold crash my beers I can see where the incoming beer level is by the condensation on the outside of the keg.  Lately I have been using one of those keg filler gadgets from KL that you put onto the gas post ball lock of the kegs, it allows the flow of outgoing CO2/Atmosphere but as soon as the beer gets up to the top a little white ball floats up and blocks off the beer flow which stops filling dead in its tracks, and you do not even have to be nearby or watch it.  Then you can disconnect all lines as the keg is as full as a state school dunny can.  Force carb it over 18 - 23 hours and Bobs your uncle.

Al, I understand what you are saying with keg filling and that is 1 of the reasons that I love pressure fermenting as I can do enclosed transfers very easily with no O2 contamination.

If you fill your kegs right up to the top, do you notice any problems with lack of headspace in the keg with carbonation? I have filled a few kegs right to the top, by mistake, so then I usually just take some beer out of them. I have read that lack of headspace can cause carbonation problems.

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16 minutes ago, kmar92 said:

Al, I understand what you are saying with keg filling and that is 1 of the reasons that I love pressure fermenting as I can do enclosed transfers very easily with no O2 contamination.

If you fill your kegs right up to the top, do you notice any problems with lack of headspace in the keg with carbonation? I have filled a few kegs right to the top, by mistake, so then I usually just take some beer out of them. I have read that lack of headspace can cause carbonation problems.

Kmar92, my process of late is to squeeze as much beer into the kegs as possible as my brewing schedule is getting a bit on top of me re volumes and I have not been able to travel much due to intermittent lock downs so not many travelling stubbies manufactured.  Therefore full kegs it is.

I hear what you worry about with over filling kegs, but what I do once they are forced carbed and left sitting for a few days is draw off a couple of glasses as taste testers.  This also helps get rid of the initial trub and cloudiness and / or the tiny bit of hop matter that has gotten into kegs.  It also gives me an idea of the hop aroma is like so I can modify the recipe to get it to that "right spot" so in four weeks down the track when the kegs is starting to be consumed its right where I want it to be.

After the initial couple of glasses there is probably the right amount of head space to be used as a CO2 buffer tank for the beer.  I have been very happy with the ones just starting to hit their straps as we speak.

Edited by iBooz2
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18 minutes ago, kmar92 said:

I love pressure fermenting as I can do enclosed transfers very easily with no O2 contamination.

Yes me too, but these boys were talking about gravity feeding into a CO2 purged keg with a dangly tube so that is why I commented.  My pressure transfers are similar but not quite the same.  That's another reason I am hanging out for a big 58 L kegmenter so I can do two kegs in one batch.

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8 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

Yes me too, but these boys were talking about gravity feeding into a CO2 purged keg with a dangly tube so that is why I commented.  My pressure transfers are similar but not quite the same.  That's another reason I am hanging out for a big 58 L kegmenter so I can do two kegs in one batch.

I am more than happy with my 29l kegmenter, they are pricey to buy but should have a very long life. Yes the 58l version is also a better buy, but with my current set up I would not be able to handle the weight of it easily, as we discussed elsewhere. I have thought of using 2 x 29l versions as they are stackable and could be linked in a daisy chain but that is a pricey option compared to the 58l version.

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26 minutes ago, kmar92 said:

I am more than happy with my 29l kegmenter, they are pricey to buy but should have a very long life. Yes the 58l version is also a better buy, but with my current set up I would not be able to handle the weight of it easily, as we discussed elsewhere. I have thought of using 2 x 29l versions as they are stackable and could be linked in a daisy chain but that is a pricey option compared to the 58l version.

Yep, I have been going through the pros and cons of such a weighty drum.  The filling, fermenting and transfer part is all mapped out in my mind and ok but when it comes to the flushing, SP cleaning, rinsing etc. there is going to be some man handling, rolling around and lifting.  Still have not quite got a procedure "handle" on this part yet.  Plus I need to strengthen the floor / spread the load of its weight across the floor area of my big fridge as I don't want to crack the plastic liner material and wreck the look of the fridge.

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Day off today, have 3 x fermenters that need kegging.

‘A Hazy IPA 

Mangrove Jacks Helles

Coopers IPA 

Stocks getting up now, will have 7 kegs full waiting for their turn in the keezer.

If I get time I’ll throw another brew down, not sure what yet.

‘Happy days 🍻🍻

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4 minutes ago, Aussiekraut said:

Ok, Kerr we go. The first tap off the kegerator. A very green Queensland Sunburn and being the first beer from the first keg, it’s exciting 😀 May there be many more to follow.

Yes, that fat slug is me 😂

 

IMG_7050.MOV

Well I heard you @Aussiekraut  but the file wouldn't open unless I download & pay for a CODEC extension. Hope it goes well, Cheers.

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1 hour ago, ozdevil said:

hope you dont mind  but i thought youtube maybe easier  for all to see it

Thanks Ozzy mate for us out in the paddock with buggggger-all-bandwidth... worked a treat... thanks mate... thanks for doing that!

And @Aussiekraut AK - pure Gold mate - luvyerwork!!!

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On 7/25/2021 at 1:08 PM, CLASSIC said:

Ok, Kerr we go. The first tap off the kegerator. A very green Queensland Sunburn and being the first beer from the first keg, it’s exciting 😀 May there be many more to follow.

Yes, that fat slug is me 😂

 

I trust you are enjoying tour new set-up @Aussiekraut  my advice would be  Zauber nicht zu viel Mate trinken 🥳

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AK, you've inspired me to have a closer look at this Kegging caper.

Kegland seem like the place to start with.

Kegerator series X. $480.00

https://www.kegland.com.au/series-x-kegerator-base-fridge-with-regulator.html

And what about SOS @Shamus O'Sean suggestion of these little rippers?

20 L Fermenter King Juniors from Keg King approx $25.00 each

image_2021-07-27_152916.png.aefc875e26d154599e959c5298d8e335.png

 

Gas Cylinder; Kegland 2.6kg Carbon Dioxide full.

https://www.kegland.com.au/co2-gas-cylinders-2-6kg-full.html

 

2.6kg-cylinder2_1.png

 

Double Tap font kit Kegland; $55.00

https://www.kegland.com.au/double-tap-brushed-stainless-font-kit.html

 

kl00482_-_double_tap_brushed_stainless_font_kit_with_ss_duotigh_shot_shank_and_black_handle_without_tap_.png

Nukatap SS tap $25.00

kl15509_-_nupatap_ss.jpg

 

There's probably loads more to add and think about but it's a start.

 

 

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On 7/17/2021 at 7:27 PM, iBooz2 said:

+1

That's exactly what I do.  Send your beer down the beer out post on your keg for gods sake.  What are you blokes thinking.  The infrastructure is already there, no need to drop any tube into the the keg to get beer to the bottom of the bloody keg there is already one there, a SS dip tube one.

oh wow i've not thought of doing this and makes a lot of sense... just so i'm understanding you correctly i'd just need to add a liquid disconnect to the end of my existing bottling tube and then i could just literally fill up that way?

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1 hour ago, Stickers said:

oh wow i've not thought of doing this and makes a lot of sense... just so i'm understanding you correctly i'd just need to add a liquid disconnect to the end of my existing bottling tube and then i could just literally fill up that way?

Yup!  Just make sure keg is purged with CO2 first to get rid of as much atmosphere then make sure keg has no residual pressure in it otherwise you will blow bubbles back into your beer.

When gravity filling make sure you lock the keg PRV up in the open position by positioning the PRV pull ring up on the step (see pic) but be ready to close it when keg is full.  You could also use a spunding valve on the gas post if you have one of those.

Keg PRV locked in the up position - resized.jpg

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