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kmar92

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  1. Sorry @Shamus O'Sean I missed your post. I pitched at 24° and it is fermenting at 21°. I like to ferment with Munich Classic at the top of it's range (17° - 22°) in a wort that has as much oxygen as I can get into it. I mix the wort with a paint stirrer and drill and end up with a lot of foam on it. Seems to work well.
  2. Lallemand Munich Classic doing it's stuff. Even with the krausen collar it was still trying to climb out of the FV, it did reach the lid but then subsided some. I love this yeast. Hefe weissbier being born. Beautiful aromas of banana and cloves!
  3. Of course there is absolutely nothing wrong with bottling. I bottled for years and I never had any issues with failed bottles, I still bottle the occasional batch. However for me the amount of work involved in cleaning and bottling is very time consuming compared with kegging. Bottling also requires a lot more space for storing bottles that a similar volume that is kegged, requires. I have been kegging for over 12 months now and I have had zero failures with kegs and attached equipment. As has been mentioned a bit of maintenance on kegs and equipment keeps everything running trouble-free and the spare parts that are needed, from time to time, are cheap and easily obtained. Another advantage is that kegged beer is available for consumption much faster than bottled beer, there is no waiting for secondary fermentation to take place and I find that beer matures much faster in kegs v bottles. Of course every persons experiences are different but for me kegging is the way to go.
  4. I would think that in effect, a cubed wort is just the same as a FWK, so long as there is not a great amount of air in the cube. FWK's seem to have a shelf life of at least 12 months.
  5. @Classic Brewing Co I have made a great and similar tasting home brewed version with just a can of TC Preacher's Hefe Wheat, Wheat liquid malt, LDM and Lallemand Munich Classic as the yeast. I have 1 on tap at present and it is lovely.
  6. Yeah thanks @iBooz2, I have no intention of using the electric element for the initial heat or for the boil, that will be using the gas burner. I was just a little surprised with the electric element. Actually very surprised, I just ran it on a normal GPO which is very close to the meter box and it worked fine, no heat to note on the GPO or the lead. Gas burner testing tomorrow.
  7. Of course very pertinent for me Al as I am about to commission a very similar unit. It appears that you have moved away from the SS spring pick up that you showed before on the suction side? In the photo your wort is exceptionally clear. How long did it take for the SS basket to pass all the wort so that you could pump it into the cube? I finally had a chance to hard plumb my version of the 70l NANO today, I had a few minor leaks and mainly from fittings that the supplier had fitted but they were sorted quickly. I filled it to the 50l mark and ran the pump for approx 2 hours and also ran the electric element to test it and I was surprised that the electric element had the water temperature from 21° to 65° in about 1.5 hours. So after that initial test I feel that the electric element should be capable of holding a mash temperature. I haven't tried the gas burner as yet but I have finally received the missing gas jet and that is fitted and I will try it tomorrow and I will be interested to see the boil off rate and get a few more readings from the unit in use to with just water to help with the mash calculations.
  8. I will just tell you that it looks pretty damn nice @Classic Brewing Co
  9. I am confused with this discussion. My limited understanding is that the rubber/plastic stuff on the top and bottom of cornelius kegs are just for handling and allowing the corny to stand upright. So if there is a crack with liquid in the rubber/plastic thing as @Stickers had that just indicates that the actual keg is leaking from a join or somewhere and no amount of bog/glue/sika etc will cure that? @Shamus O'Sean has a different problem I feel that can possibly fixed with bog/glue/sika if you could actually get the rubber/plastic thing off and re-glue it to the actual SS keg, as the actual pressure vessel is still intact. Confused.
  10. I have wondered how much heat that the paint strainer bags will handle, obviously they do not cope with contact to high heat surfaces.
  11. @stquinto I have a Lodge double dutch oven and I was thinking about proofing the dough in a Banneton and then turning it out onto the lid of the Lodge (all pre-heated of course) and placing that into the oven with the deeper base on top, so in other words upside down. My thinking is that method would be less likely to deflate the dough, I think that if I use the double Dutch oven in the usual upright manner I would have to turn out the Banneton onto some baking paper in order to put it in the Dutch oven.
  12. Thanks @stquinto, I had some hooch early with my starter, but for the last few days it just seems to want to climb out of the jar so I am taking that as a good sign that it has a healthy culture of yeasty goodies within.
  13. @iBooz2 yes a new world for me is sourdough. That collapsing of the proved loaf is what has me planning on the Banneton for proofing. I am also finding the starter a little temperamental, last night the bloody thing threatened to escape the jar, as with yours, whilst tonight it is growing very slowly but it is growing and will probably wait till I am asleep and then explode out of the jar!
  14. Please do not take advice from me on this subject - I am still trying to get the starter ready and I have no experience as yet on proofing, baking etc of sourdough. However, when I am happy with the starter, I intend to proof the sourdough in a Banneton basket and then bake it in a Dutch oven. From what I have seen the Banneton helps to retain the form of the loaf whilst proofing and I already know, from experience with other breads, that Dutch ovens are great for bread baking as they retain the steam generated from the dough which gives a great crust and bake of the loaf.
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