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What Are You Drinking in 2022?


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23 minutes ago, beach_life said:

Amber saison and hoppy rye

 

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That's just about nailed it.  I have a can of Coopers Canadian Blonde, a 1.5 L pouch of Mangrove Jacks Amber Malt Extract and a Lallemand Farmhouse yeast.  I think I will combine the lot for something like your Amber Saison.

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40 minutes ago, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

Kegland Lager FWK it came out heaps stronger than would have guessed at 5.7%. One thing I noticed when started brewing FWK was the lower final gravity compared to a kit brew. 

@Mickep had some recent FWK talk with you mate whats you're experience?  You go for 20 ish litres as per instructions for a strong one or water it down more?

@Uhtred Of Beddanburg, try the Fresh3 Lager from kegland with this recipe mate.

https://www.kegland.com.au/fresh3-true-blue-bitter-aussie-ale-fresh-wort-kit-with-yeast-full-recipe-kit.html

Note the approx ABV of 4.6%

Add 7 liters of pre boiled water. If you can, do a dry hop of POR or whatever hops your prefer. I only  use 15 grams for 48 hours - you may wish to add more than that though.

Specifications:
F3WK HDPE Bag Volume: 15L +-0.1L
Add 7L of potable (preferably pre-boiled and cooled) water. 
Total Volume: 22L
SG Range: 1.048 +-0.003
Est. FG 1.013
Around a quaffable and refreshing 4.6% ABV

Yeast: LalBrew Premium Series - BRY-97 - American West Coast Style Ale Yeast x 11g 

Edited by Mickep
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35 minutes ago, Mickep said:

@Uhtred Of Beddanburg, try the Fresh3 Lager from kegland with this recipe mate.

https://www.kegland.com.au/fresh3-true-blue-bitter-aussie-ale-fresh-wort-kit-with-yeast-full-recipe-kit.html

Note the approx ABV of 4.6%

Add 7 liters of pre boiled water. If you can, do a dry hop of POR or whatever hops your prefer. I only  use 15 grams for 48 hours - you may wish to add more than that though.

Specifications:
F3WK HDPE Bag Volume: 15L +-0.1L
Add 7L of potable (preferably pre-boiled and cooled) water. 
Total Volume: 22L
SG Range: 1.048 +-0.003
Est. FG 1.013
Around a quaffable and refreshing 4.6% ABV

Yeast: LalBrew Premium Series - BRY-97 - American West Coast Style Ale Yeast x 11g 

Thanks for your feedback and experience but I would probably rather brew it as a lager. Although if did use an ale yeast I would go hoppy. Really surprised by the expected FG all my FWK have gone to 1.005 or 6. How low have yours finished?

Edited by Uhtred Of Beddanburg
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2 hours ago, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

Thanks for your feedback and experience but I would probably rather brew it as a lager. Although if did use an ale yeast I would go hoppy. Really surprised by the expected FG all my FWK have gone to 1.005 or 6. How low have yours finished?

I've done it as a lager using 34/70 (Dubbya), wasn't that fussed tbh. I've done a few lagers - If I do it again I might use Diamond.

Following the instructions adding the 7 or so liters of pre boiled water to the 15 litres of wort I hit an FG of approx 1.013 -1.012 as per the recipe instructions.

The ale yeast as described above is a really nice partner for this FWK....it's a great summer beer.

The NEIPA fresh3 is a ripper too, 100gm Eclipse dry hop and Lal's Verdant yeast make for a ripping hazy pale ale. 

https://www.kegland.com.au/fresh3-cloud-nine-hazy-pale-ale-fresh-wort-kit-with-yeast-and-hops-full-recipe-kit.html

Edited by Mickep
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15 hours ago, Mickep said:

I've done it as a lager using 34/70 (Dubbya), wasn't that fussed tbh. I've done a few lagers - If I do it again I might use Diamond.

Following the instructions adding the 7 or so liters of pre boiled water to the 15 litres of wort I hit an FG of approx 1.013 -1.012 as per the recipe instructions.

The ale yeast as described above is a really nice partner for this FWK....it's a great summer beer.

The NEIPA fresh3 is a ripper too, 100gm Eclipse dry hop and Lal's Verdant yeast make for a ripping hazy pale ale. 

https://www.kegland.com.au/fresh3-cloud-nine-hazy-pale-ale-fresh-wort-kit-with-yeast-and-hops-full-recipe-kit.html

I just checked my notes and I used Bavarian Lager yeast slurry and got down to an FG: 1.006. Most my FWK have been similar even the ones with fresh yeast added and not slurry. Last time i checked my hydrometer it was right i broke my glass one so use the coopers one now.

I think you are right the Lager is bland i might just do it as a pale ale next time myself with verdant yeast and Cascade and Amarillo hops out of the freezer. Will be interesting regarding the gravity if the Verdant finishes it higher.

Edited by Uhtred Of Beddanburg
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3 hours ago, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

I think you are right the Lager is bland i might just do it as a pale ale next time myself with verdant yeast and Cascade and Amarillo hops out of the freezer. Will be interesting regarding the gravity if the Verdant finishes it higher.

The Kegland Fresh3Cubed FWK's are just a base to add to. That's in the blurb about the product. If you continue to have readings which don't seem to stack up maybe check that your Coopers hydrometer is accurate.

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48 minutes ago, Mickep said:

The Kegland Fresh3Cubed FWK's are just a base to add to. That's in the blurb about the product. If you continue to have readings which don't seem to stack up maybe check that your Coopers hydrometer is accurate.

yeah it's accurate and consistent between when was doing coopers Tins and bits that finished higher. The only thing that has changed is the FWK and they all finish lower.

In saying that coopers recepies always quoted lower readings that I never managed to reach. I never looked at the expected FG for these FWK but the consistency is a good thing I suppose. 

It actually makes sense because even though it's an all grain brew the head retention is not as good as the kits that finished higher. Tins contain alot more non fermentables, assuming from the evaporation.  Still good but not as long lasting. It makes up for it with the taste.

Assuming they sparge the begizers out of them for maximum efficiency.  As far as my research went when I was going to go all grain this results in lower FG and more alcohol but thinner beer. 

Edited by Uhtred Of Beddanburg
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Followed by a Sam Adams. Drinkable but not much to write home about. The hops have faded, just leaving a thick-tasting, malty brew that’s missing the crispness from the hops. Oh well, better call some mates over to polish it off

 

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11 hours ago, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

Assuming they sparge the begizers out of them for maximum efficiency.

It would be very interesting to see the process at Coopers of turning the wort into extract for their homebrew extract tins.

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On 12/2/2022 at 3:13 AM, stquinto said:

are you happy with the hop profile on yours ? Mine faded out too quickly, I think for a subsequent brew I would bump up the hops considerably.

Different brew, but a similar quest for more hop aroma/flavour: I have just mixed a 23L batch of Coopers Australian Pale Ale using extract, Brew enhancer no.2, a packet of light dry malt and 2x12g Galaxy hop 'teabags' steeped and added to the brew before the yeast. I am thinking of making a steep with a Chux teabag of about 20g Cluster hops and adding this 1 day before bottling. Sound OK?

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4 minutes ago, jennyss said:

Different brew, but a similar quest for more hop aroma/flavour: I have just mixed a 23L batch of Coopers Australian Pale Ale using extract, Brew enhancer no.2, a packet of light dry malt and 2x12g Galaxy hop 'teabags' steeped and added to the brew before the yeast. I am thinking of making a steep with a Chux teabag of about 20g Cluster hops and adding this 1 day before bottling. Sound OK?

There is no reason why that would not add a bit more flavour & 'lock in' but I would think at least 24 hours would be beneficial.

There is a lot of info on the Internet Jenny, here's just one of them.

https://beersmith.com/blog/2013/01/21/late-hop-additions-and-hop-oils-in-beer-brewing/

Late Hop Additions

Hops added in the last 5-15 minutes of the boil are called late hop additions. These hops are usually not added for bittering, though they do contribute a small amount of bitterness to the beer. The main purpose for late hop additions is to add aroma and aromatic hop oils to your beer.

In addition to bittering compounds, hop cones from “aromatic” hop varieties contain volatile hop oils that provide the strong flowery aromatic flavor and scent desirable in many hoppy beer styles. Unfortunately, most of these compounds boil off within 10-20 minutes of adding the hops.

Late hop additions should always use “aromatic” hop varieties and should be done within the last 10 minutes of the boil to preserve as many aromatic oils as possible. In addition, late hop additions are most appropriate for beer styles where a hoppy flavor and aroma is needed. You would not add late hop additions to a malty or low hop beer style.

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4 minutes ago, jennyss said:

Different brew, but a similar quest for more hop aroma/flavour: I have just mixed a 23L batch of Coopers Australian Pale Ale using extract, Brew enhancer no.2, a packet of light dry malt and 2x12g Galaxy hop 'teabags' steeped and added to the brew before the yeast. I am thinking of making a steep with a Chux teabag of about 20g Cluster hops and adding this 1 day before bottling. Sound OK?

Hey Jennyss, that sounds good 👍 

I think the longer a dry hop sits in the FV the less it retains the flavour. Having said that, I’m not sure if 1 day is enough. Worth a try though, you never know until you’ve tried it.

Maybe some others have an opinion? 

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35 minutes ago, stquinto said:

Maybe some others have an opinion?

@jennyss This info is good What we know about dry hopping

Lots of info in there but if you scroll down to Dry Hop Contact Time, it talks about contact time specifically. 

Short contact time seems to work for me. For the last little while, I've been combining the dry hop with the cold crash. I've been pretty happy with the results.

Do you contain your hops in a hop sock? 

 

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6 minutes ago, jennyss said:

@Popo the Degenerate, I have only used Galaxy hop pellets which come pre-packaged in 12g 'teabags', and Cluster hop pellets which I wrapped in  Chux (It looked like a mini plum pudding). I'm keen to maximise the hop flavours, and the length of time the flavour lasts after bottling and opening.

Me too on that point Jennyss. I’d read here that once conditioned, if you can keep the bottles chilled, the hop aroma and taste hang around longer. But you need a bloody big fridge for more than one brew 😉

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3 hours ago, jennyss said:

I am thinking of making a steep with a Chux teabag of about 20g Cluster hops and adding this 1 day before bottling. Sound OK?

Jenny, @jennyss, from memory @Tone boy has posted blurb regarding dry hopping. There's a line of thought that most of the aroma / flavour is imparted in the first 12 hours of the dry hop. So 24 hours would / should be okay for your Galaxy dry hop just before bottling. 

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A small keg of 5 l of a Duvel clone. This one I did on the cheap with white sugar instead of posho candi syrup. 25 litres in all for 12ChF (hops and recycled yeast included) so under 1 AU$ per litre. Suits my suburban avarice 😆

Oof! Plenty of bang for your buck! Actually quite accurate taste-wise, I’ll have to do a side-to-side tasting, but early in the evening if I want to make sense of it.

As some would say, a decent mid-strength beer…

 

 

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Side-by -side taste test - My 150 Lashes Pale Ale against the commercial version.

  • Mine is clearly more carbonated, and it retained the head in the glass the whole beer through.
  • The commercial version seems to have a yeast aroma whereas my homebrew version is similar but has more fruitiness.
  • The commercial version has milder bitterness
  • The commercial has a gentle malty flavour with a hint of fruitiness
  • My HB version is more fruity flavoured.

I like them both, even if not identical.

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