What's in Your Fermenter 2023?

[DavidM]

2 hours ago, jennyss said:

A very basic brew into the fermenter this afternoon: Coopers Australian Pale Ale extract with Coopers Brew Enhancer 2. No extra malt (lack of resources lol). Did add 25g Coopers Galaxy pellets made into a chux bag and steeped in 2 cups boiling water for 15 minutes. Brought to 23 litres and pitched yeast.  Brew temp. 22/24 deg, room temp 24, outside temp 26. OG is 103.5 

Nice, Should be a good easy drinking brew..

[DavidM]

Busy few days for me..

Bottled a Coopers Pale Ale and a Coopers Stout

 Put a Pale Ale in the Fermenta, with 300g of Carapils

Also a Real Ale, with 200g of light Crystal

And a Dark Ale with Dark malt and a bit of Maltodextrin and Dextrose

Time for a few Beers..

 

[Otto Von Blotto]

Pitched my pilsner during Sunday's brew day, it had formed a krausen yesterday or sometime overnight Monday. It was pitched at about 10 degrees and fermenting at 11.5. I'll check the SG on Saturday and see how it's progressing.

[Classic Brewing Co]

Day 2 of the CC, the fridge is still working down from 20c - on 4c ATM so I guess it will probably take most of the day to get down to 2c.

If I can get this over with, I can keg in a few days.

[Classic Brewing Co]

Day 2 of the CC, the fridge is still working down from 20c - on 4c ATM so I guess it will probably take most of the day to get down to 2c.

If I can get this over with, I can keg in a few days.

[Classic Brewing Co]

2 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Well this is not working, it got down to3 c & went up & down between 4-5, for the rest of the day, so bugger the CC, it goes in the keg tomorrow, I am thirsty.

 

Edited April 27, 2023 by Classic Brewing Co

[Classic Brewing Co]

13 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

 

Well, it seems after reading this thread my CC attempts aren't far off, the temperature is down to 2.9c ATM & as I said it has been fluctuating between 3 - 4c for 3.5 days so I will keg it today.

They reckon beer starts freezing around 2.2c.

 

[kmar92]

1 hour ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Well, it seems after reading this thread my CC attempts aren't far off, the temperature is down to 2.9c ATM & as I said it has been fluctuating between 3 - 4c for 3.5 days so I will keg it today.

They reckon beer starts freezing around 2.2c.

 

I think that you will find that beer starts freezing at -2.2°, due to the alcohol in beer it freezes at sub-zero temps, the freezing point will also be affected by the ABV so the higher the ABV the lower the freezing point.

[Pickles Jones]

I understand that when beer is freezing, ice crystals of water will start to develop and the alcohol will remain in liquid form. The longer the beer freezes, the more the ice will freeze and you could end up with all of the alcohol pooling at the bottom of the container.

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 hour ago, Pickles Jones said:

I understand that when beer is freezing, ice crystals of water will start to develop and the alcohol will remain in liquid form. The longer the beer freezes, the more the ice will freeze and you could end up with all of the alcohol pooling at the bottom of the container.

I did freeze & Czech Pilsner once but that was in the fridge that is now my keg fridge, I decided to let it thaw & eventually bottled it (at the time) after about 6 months, it really didn't taste any different & was quite drinkable.

Edited April 28, 2023 by Classic Brewing Co

[iBooz2]

On 4/27/2023 at 7:47 PM, Classic Brewing Co said:

Day 2 of the CC, the fridge is still working down from 20c - on 4c ATM so I guess it will probably take most of the day to get down to 2c.

If I can get this over with, I can keg in a few days.

Phil,  just a passing suggestion here.  Do all your cold crashes in a number of steps down, otherwise your poor fridge compressor works flat out for days on end and this may cause premature failure due to constant heat being generated and absorbed by all the bits.  If you do it it steps the workings of your fridge will thank you for it in longevity.  Look after it and it will look after you.

[Classic Brewing Co]

10 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

Phil,  just a passing suggestion here.  Do all your cold crashes in a number of steps down, otherwise your poor fridge compressor works flat out for days on end and this may cause premature failure due to constant heat being generated and absorbed by all the bits.  If you do it it steps the workings of your fridge will thank you for it in longevity.  Look after it and it will look after you.

Cheers Al, thanks, I have read that it does make sense, probably why it took a while to come down, I will do that next time, Cheers. 

[iBooz2]

On 4/25/2023 at 7:47 AM, Oldbloke said:

Mmm, can't say I have noticed that. Are you saying the sugar in the syrup tends to settle to the bottom? 

Yes it will to some degree.  Next time you make up a sugar syrup to bulk prime and cool it to 20 C, pop in your hydrometer and measure the SG of the syrup before mixing it into your beer, post the results here for interest sake.  BTW @Oldbloke how much hot water did you use to your chosen amount of sugar as I might do this myself for just the record. 

Only then you will realize it is near impossible to mix this high SG liquid with a low SG beer without a big disturbance of the trub.

I used to bulk prime, (never made a stout only beers that were drank in a short time frame) and had hit and miss results with carbonation so it was back to a sugar scoop and equal amount to each glass bottle (back in the day).

Later on (like a 100 years ago) I learned to bottle the beers when they were still a couple of points off what I called their temporary final gravity (TFG) and never had the need to prime the bottles with any sugars after that at all. 

The true final gravity only occurs after the priming sugars added have been used up by the yeast in the bottles.   I introduced my dad to this technique and he found it easy as he always used to brew the same recipe over and over again.  He used glass Coopers stout bottles for his home brew and never had to prime them.

The temporary final gravity is reached after fermentation has ceased in the FV and then we bottle and add priming sugar to raise the gravity again when we bottle, so why not just bottle, say 2 SG points off where we know the beer usually ends up at.  Yes we do need to know the recipe inside out and have to do it a few times over to be sure what the recipes so called FG will come in at.  And we do miss out on that extra 0.5 % ABV we get for the priming sugar in the bottles but more in the recipe to start with can fix this.

NOW, I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS TO INEXPERIENCED BREWERS OR THOSE USING GLASS BOTTLES BUT IT IS FINE FOR PET BOTTLES IF YOU TAKE ACCURATE HYDROMETER READINGS.

Edited April 29, 2023 by iBooz2

[iBooz2]

On 4/28/2023 at 12:09 PM, Pickles Jones said:

I understand that when beer is freezing, ice crystals of water will start to develop and the alcohol will remain in liquid form. The longer the beer freezes, the more the ice will freeze and you could end up with all of the alcohol pooling at the bottom of the container.

Yep I agree.  Have accidentally frozen a couple of kegs at times and they stop pouring beers, probably stronger near the end when they get low.  When I do thaw them out in order to finish them off, all that is left is a few litres of watery mush and it has to be tipped.

[DavidM]

20 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

Yes it will to some degree.  Next time you make up a sugar syrup to bulk prime and cool it to 20 C, pop in your hydrometer and measure the SG of the syrup before mixing it into your beer, post the results here for interest sake.  BTW @Oldbloke how much hot water did you use to your chosen amount of sugar as I might do this myself for just the record. 

Only then you will realize it is near impossible to mix this high SG liquid with a low SG beer without a big disturbance of the trub.

I used to bulk prime, (never made a stout only beers that were drank in a short time frame) and had hit and miss results with carbonation so it was back to a sugar scoop and equal amount to each glass bottle (back in the day).

Later on (like a 100 years ago) I learned to bottle the beers when they were still a couple of points off what I called their temporary final gravity (TFG) and never had the need to prime the bottles with any sugars after that at all. 

The true final gravity only occurs after the priming sugars added have been used up by the yeast in the bottles.   I introduced my dad to this technique and he found it easy as he always used to brew the same recipe over and over again.  He used glass Coopers stout bottles for his home brew and never had to prime them.

The temporary final gravity is reached after fermentation has ceased in the FV and then we bottle and add priming sugar to raise the gravity again when we bottle, so why not just bottle, say 2 SG points off where we know the beer usually ends up at.  Yes we do need to know the recipe inside out and have to do it a few times over to be sure what the recipes so called FG will come in at.  And we do miss out on that extra 0.5 % ABV we get for the priming sugar in the bottles but more in the recipe to start with can fix this.

NOW, I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS TO INEXPERIENCED BREWERS OR THOSE USING GLASS BOTTLES BUT IT IS FINE FOR PET BOTTLES IF YOU TAKE ACCURATE HYDROMETER READINGS.

That's a great piece of advice there and something I might try one day.

BUT the key is the last two lines.

Not for the inexperienced..

[NBillett09]

ROTM Choccy Milk Stout in the FV this time, had to buy the ingredients separately as I waited too long to get the pack but it all worked out well. Added a little extra lactose in it and used Nottingham for the yeast. Keen for an easy drinking stout for winter!

[Oldbloke]

@iBooz2 

Usually 190gr sugar to 2 litres. This then makes a brew of 23 litres. (8.25gr/litre)

Mix sugar into 1 litre of boiling water, just out of a kettle.

Give it a good stir, in a jug, dissolves about 90%. Then just add 1 litre of cold tap water. Stir and let cool. Not fussy,  say  15-27c  but I usually guess the temp.

Once its cool, gently stir into FV and bottle about 20 or 30 minutes later.

Don't know why it wouldn't mix well?

I cant say ive noticed an obvious variation in beer head, stubbie to stubbie. But i havnt been looking for it either.

Agree, trub must get disturbed but even the odd Draught or real ale I've done have been pretty dam clear.  But all mine do age for at least 3 months, so that must help. Anyway, some like foggy/soupy. Lol

If nothing else it's very convenient. 

Interesting idea bottling early. Lol

Edited April 29, 2023 by Oldbloke

[kmar92]

My Bohemian Pilsner has been in the FV for about 24hrs @10°, and I was a little worried that the WLP800 had not fired up. WLP800 had been cultured and I should have doubled the cell count with x2 starters. Rapt Pill readings showed no change in SG. I cant remember the last time I did a lager without pressure fermenting, so new territory for me.

So the gravity from the Pill still shows no change, but earlier today the top of the wort in the FV just looked clear. I am happy to see that now it has the beginnings of a Krausen forming and I am very happy with that.

I will keep it @10° until it is 75% done and then I will step it up slowly to 19° for a diacetyl rest before cold crashing.

[Brauhaus Fritz]

First time I have all three fermenters going since October. Down to the last dozen bottles of homebrew (and two crates of Cider, which is really not my preferred drink, but I enjoy brewing them and they all turned out so delicious). Taking advantage of the cooler weather (constant 21 degrees in the garage) as I still have no fermenting fridge and the absence of the missus (on holiday).

(fltr) Coopers Pale Ale , dry hopped today on day 5 with 25gr of East Kent Golding. Down from OG1044 to 1010. Tastes and smells quiet nice.

Coopers Stout, day 7, OG was 1056 and was down two days ago to 1018. Gave it a little shake today and might check again tomorrow.

Coopers Dark Ale, dry hopped yesterday on day 6 with 25gr East Kent Golding. OG 1053 and was down to 1013 on Friday.  Both the Pale and Dark Ale have some slow airlock activity again after adding the hops and a little shake. 

                             

Bottles have all been counted, soaked, washed and rinsed and covered, and the crates have been organized. So bottling day won't be stressful as I only have to put on some tunes and sanitize the bottles and I am ready to go

 

                           

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   Latest presents from my son in law. The crate is not small, the bottles are 1.5l Grolsch flip tops. Thought that I will fill one each with the Stout and the Dark Ale. Had some Stout conditioning in some Growlers before, the ones with the metal lid didn't work, the beer was flat. The ones with the plastic lids were fantastic, as they seal properly. Anyone has any idea where to get some lids?

[Classic Brewing Co]

8 minutes ago, Brauhaus Fritz said:

Anyone has any idea where to get some lids?

Most LHBS carry a range of all sorts of lids, or you may have to go online. I assume you mean Gowler lids.

https://www.amazon.com.au/AIEVE-Growler-Gallon-Bottle-Brewing/dp/B08BNL43QT

[Brauhaus Fritz]

1 hour ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Most LHBS carry a range of all sorts of lids, or you may have to go online. I assume you mean Gowler lids.

https://www.amazon.com.au/AIEVE-Growler-Gallon-Bottle-Brewing/dp/B08BNL43QT

Yes, the growler lids. Everyone seems to be out of stock all the time 

[Oldbloke]

19 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

@iBooz2 

Usually 190gr sugar to 2 litres. This then makes a brew of 23 litres. (8.25gr/litre)

Mix sugar into 1 litre of boiling water, just out of a kettle.

Give it a good stir, in a jug, dissolves about 90%. Then just add 1 litre of cold tap water. Stir and let cool. Not fussy,  say  15-27c  but I usually guess the temp.

Once its cool, gently stir into FV and bottle about 20 or 30 minutes later.

Don't know why it wouldn't mix well?

I cant say ive noticed an obvious variation in beer head, stubbie to stubbie. But i havnt been looking for it either.

Agree, trub must get disturbed but even the odd Draught or real ale I've done have been pretty dam clear.  But all mine do age for at least 3 months, so that must help. Anyway, some like foggy/soupy. Lol

If nothing else it's very convenient. 

Interesting idea bottling early. Lol

Here is a Real Ale with 500gr Extra Light Dried Malt plus 100gr corn sugar. Bottled 2/2/23 primed same as above method.

Note: the stubbie is a Bundaberg GB and has miraculously survived.  

 

 

[kmar92]

On 4/29/2023 at 10:17 PM, kmar92 said:

My Bohemian Pilsner has been in the FV for about 24hrs @10°, and I was a little worried that the WLP800 had not fired up. WLP800 had been cultured and I should have doubled the cell count with x2 starters. Rapt Pill readings showed no change in SG. I cant remember the last time I did a lager without pressure fermenting, so new territory for me.

So the gravity from the Pill still shows no change, but earlier today the top of the wort in the FV just looked clear. I am happy to see that now it has the beginnings of a Krausen forming and I am very happy with that.

I will keep it @10° until it is 75% done and then I will step it up slowly to 19° for a diacetyl rest before cold crashing.

 

Day 4 of this Bohemian Pilsner ferment, very little action until today when it has formed a good Krausen. Without taking a sample, I hate doing that as it wastes beer, the Rapt pill shows that it has dropped from 1.053 -> 1.029 but I doubt the accuracy of the 1.029 reading as the Krausen will be affecting the Rapt pill.

I started the ferment at the bottom end of the WLP800's range of 10° - 13° and I have now just let it rise to 13°. I will let it rise in small increments to eventually reach 19° for a diacetyl rest, and then cold crash it. Despite what I have read I am not smelling any sulfur type smells with this ferment?

Take aways so far from this ferment, lager ferments are very slow compared to ales, especially factoring in that I had to do a 2 stage starter to bring the yeast cell count up to the right level. Maybe I could achieve the same result with a pressure ferment in a shorter time? I will have to do the same recipe and pressure ferment and compare the finished products. I have done many lager pressure ferments and exclusively used Dubbya and had good results.

[kmar92]

25 minutes ago, kmar92 said:

Day 4 of this Bohemian Pilsner ferment, very little action until today when it has formed a good Krausen. Without taking a sample, I hate doing that as it wastes beer, the Rapt pill shows that it has dropped from 1.053 -> 1.029 but I doubt the accuracy of the 1.029 reading as the Krausen will be affecting the Rapt pill.

I started the ferment at the bottom end of the WLP800's range of 10° - 13° and I have now just let it rise to 13°. I will let it rise in small increments to eventually reach 19° for a diacetyl rest, and then cold crash it. Despite what I have read I am not smelling any sulfur type smells with this ferment?

Take aways so far from this ferment, lager ferments are very slow compared to ales, especially factoring in that I had to do a 2 stage starter to bring the yeast cell count up to the right level. Maybe I could achieve the same result with a pressure ferment in a shorter time? I will have to do the same recipe and pressure ferment and compare the finished products. I have done many lager pressure ferments and exclusively used Dubbya and had good results.

Maybe a screenshot shows it in a better way how the ferment is going. It also shows the variations in the SG readings from the Rapt pill once a Krausen has formed.

[Uhtred Of Beddanburg]

@kmar92 I have never been game  

to pitch on 10 degrees. I have however once pitched and brewed a lager with yeast slurry at 11 degrees that was ok.  I only pitch fresh packs between 12 and 13 degrees.

Slurry is a whole different ball game I find takes off like a rocket. A starter however should be similar.  I'm sure now it's going you have made a nice beer that will be good. 

 I have never pressure fermented but  from what others have said you can get the same results in less time. It's a wierd thing for me to think of let alone do. They look like alien space craft.

Edited May 2, 2023 by Uhtred Of Beddanburg