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Pickles Jones

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  1. Yes, I would add the Ale yeast that came with can. You should get some action then.
  2. You may have Saflager W-34/70 Dry Yeast. If so have look at information on the packet regarding brew temperatures and try to work with in this range. Lager yeast is not as forgiving as Ale yeast and generally requires a more steady temperature control. In my opinion SG 1.040 is to high to bottle. I would suggest that you leave the brew until you return and then bottle. For good lager and the important lagering period you would be best to work towards getting a fermenting fridge hooked up to a Inkbird temperature controller. I would also suggest as Newbrews said it may pay you to get some new ALE yeast and pitch that. Remember that Golden Ale is an Ale not a Lager. See Coopers recipes for Golden Ale.
  3. Welcome Another way to be adventurous is to purchase the Recipe of the Month from Coopers. I regularly purchase these as it gives me access to recipes I would not normally do. The best thing about these it that they supply "everything" in the box that you need to do the brew.
  4. The Coopers Pale Ale is quite good by its self. If you are new to brewing a good approach is to brew the Pale Ale with the Coopers enhancer. If you like the style the next brew of Pale Ale could be dry hopped with say Citra Hops then you can try something more adventurous with the next brew. You are then starting to enter The Rabbit Hole!!
  5. I recently had a brew where the bottles were not up to the level of carbonation I liked . In other words they were flat. I re-primed each bottle with one carbonation drop and they all turned out well carbonated. The next batch I did I put 2 carbonation drops in each 330 ml bottle. All were excellent. A word of caution when doing this. I used Asahi crown seal bottles which are very robust. Most bottles including the current Asahi crown seal bottles are very thin and I would not use them in fear of exploding bottles.
  6. No, mine turned out fine. Some of my best brews have been made by not sticking exactly to the recipe by mistake or intention. If it turns out to your satisfaction it is a good brew!
  7. I wouldn't be to concerned. I have done the same without any problems. This is all part of the learning curve.
  8. I didn't know what a SMOTY was however I found it in the recipe section now I know.
  9. The next thing to consider would be adding Pay Pal as a payment option.
  10. I did read on a pack of Coopers dry fermentable I used yesterday that it was made in China and packed in Australia. !!!
  11. Next time you think you have a bad brew fill a couple of bottles, prime and cap them and leave them as you would a "good brew". You can then do the smell/taste test to confirm if it was bad.
  12. If all else fails re prime the bottles. As Journey man says you need to get them above 18 degrees, so try this first.
  13. I give all brews two weeks in the fermenter. Lets the yeast do its job, clean up and anything else it needs to do. It gives me a firm date to work to and I can plan bottling around that. I just take the OG and then later the FG on bottling day to calculate the ABV. Seems to work for me.
  14. Things are grim when all available advances in can opener technology have been exhausted and you have to punch a hole in the bottom of the can to access the contents, I presume using a sharpened flint.
  15. I think the Asahi 330ml crown seals are a good bottle to use. The current bottles Asahi use are still a crown seal but are not as robust and I would use them with caution. I have started to use Grolsch Swing Tops and so far have had no problems however they are not cheap to buy even on Gumtree. And you can easily buy replacement seals for them. The PET bottles are hard to get a good seal on and I have had many flat ones. So I don't use them any more.
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