What's in Your Fermenter 2022?

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 hour ago, jennyss said:

Yes, will do @stquinto. I did google 'hop fade' and came up with Christina's earlier very knowledgeable entries on this topic. There is a lot of fascinating and debated information about 'hop fade'; including that the aroma escapes/soaks into the plastic lids! But how do craft breweries with their hop dominated beers get away with this? 

There are many technical & complicated reasons & answers available but IMO for the average brewer we just need to arrive at an overall acceptable quantity of hops to add & of course methods make a difference as well as storage/temperatures. The general consensus is the beer should be consumed within 3 months before the flavour is lost. Actual breweries have a better knowledge & understanding of the process & apply other techniques.

[stquinto]

3 hours ago, jennyss said:

But how do craft breweries with their hop dominated beers get away with this? 

That’s a really good question.. a bit beyond my pay scale TBH. I wonder if it’s pasteurized or something? Someone will know

[stquinto]

https://beersmith.com/blog/2019/03/31/dry-hop-creep-over-carbonation-and-diacetyl-in-beer/
 Interesting… one of many

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 hour ago, stquinto said:

https://beersmith.com/blog/2019/03/31/dry-hop-creep-over-carbonation-and-diacetyl-in-beer/
 Interesting… one of many

Great minds think alike Stquinta, I nearly posted that, as you say there is heaps of topics on the subject.

[Classic Brewing Co]

A couple of quick k & k's to get some stock in kegs/bottles, the Real Ale will get the yeast I harvested from a Pale Ale I saved from 26/10/22 & they both will get a decent whack of Victoria's Secret on day 5-6. 

Between now & Xmas I will be organising more kegs so I can get stuck into AG brews.

 

[ozdevil]

unfortunately  didn't take no pics of 2  fresh wort kits i done  today

both are in there little hide holes i call a fridge  

1st fwk of the day in the fermenter was the black ipa  from  grain and grape  its a pitty they didn't do there cubes to 20 litres
sg  1.060    using bry 97  yeast

2nd fwk was ben juicy  neipa, i think i said it was a hazy ipa in what ya brewing thread

SG 1.054   using  new England  yeast from lallamend

hopefully on Friday  will look at doing a  red rye ipa  in the gen 4 and Monday  a pale ale  using the gen 4

however  hopefully soon i will have another fermenting fridge   as today  i am using a keg fridge and thought oh shite  my keg fridge died.   so quickly  disengaged the temp controller and plug the fridge in normal and temp started to come down again...   atleast this time its under warranty,   just as well


anyway good to have wort fermenting away

 

[Classic Brewing Co]

COOPERS REAL ALE

No 1 Brew done using the saved yeast from the Pale Ale. In the fridge set at 20c for 14 days.

I scored an off cut of wood 70cm high from the building site across the road & it fits nicely on 2 milk crates creating a solid platform, it will be perfect for the Brew Zilla to lift the malt pipe for sparging.

[Classic Brewing Co]

COOPERS DRAUGHT

Brew No 2 all done & it's fermenting position for 14 days, this will be brewed at an ambient temp of 18-20c.

That's not bad 2 brews put together & it's only 12 noon, a bit of lunch & later enjoy a few beers in the beautiful Glenelg weather, 33c today, looking forward to it.

Cheers.

 

[Otto Von Blotto]

Was gonna pitch my pale ale today but the break is too bloody short so I'll be doing that one tomorrow instead. Not like a day will make much difference anyway, it'll still be ready to keg on the weekend of the 26th, when I'll be brewing a pilsner and smoking a piece of bacon.

Some time between now and then I'll replace my broken 5L flask. The brew after the pilsner will be a red ale as it uses tap water. Will get another water still around that time and then everything is set for continuous supply. 

[Tricky Micky]

Double batch after the Dirty Double batch fail.

After a thorough clean out of the Ferment fridge and the two FV's from the previous failed brews I'm onto this

Guess I'll have to go through the kegerator taps,  beer lines and connections as well.

This is KL's extract 150 lashes clone recipe.

21 liter volume for each FV

20grams Amarillo 10 minute boil in 2 liter pre boiled water

10 grams Nelson at flame out for 20 minutes 

1x Muntons Wheat beer extract 1.8kg and 1x 1.2 kg of Light Malt extract.

US-05 sprinkle

Will dry hop with Amarillo approx 30 grams and about 15 of Nelson for 48 hours at FG.

ABV approx 4.2%

[Classic Brewing Co]

6 minutes ago, Mickep said:

After a thorough clean out of the Ferment fridge and the two FV's from the previous failed brews I'm onto this

Guess I'll have to go through the kegerator taps,  beer lines and connections as well.

This is KL's extract 150 lashes clone recipe.

21 liter volume for each FV

20grams Amarillo 10 minute boil in 2 liter pre boiled water

10 grams Nelson at flame out for 20 minutes 

1x Muntons Wheat beer extract 1.8kg and 1x 1.2 kg of Light Malt extract.

US-05 sprinkle

Will dry hop with Amarillo approx 30 grams and about 15 of Nelson for 48 hours at FG.

ABV approx 4.2%

Looks good Mick, my guess is you won't be rushing in too many 'dirty batches' anytime soon.

[Tricky Micky]

47 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Looks good Mick, my guess is you won't be rushing in too many 'dirty batches' anytime soon.

Just for the time being I might go back to my yeast slurry method - didn't have an issue with that process....I have read anecdotally, that ale yeast might be more affected by the process and also I may have contributed by not reducing the trub quantity  after each brew finished...the yeasty boys may have multiplied so much they had too much of a party happening.

[Classic Brewing Co]

4 minutes ago, Mickep said:

Just for the time being I might go back to my yeast slurry method - didn't have an issue with that process....I have read anecdotally, that ale yeast might be more affected by the process and also I may have contributed by not reducing the trub quantity  after each brew finished...the yeasty boys may have multiplied so much they had too much of a party happening.

Yeah, it's worth trying if you are satisfied with the look, smell of it but hell, yeast is only $4-$8 a pack so why stuff around messing around in the trub to save a couple of bucks. I have been brewing for centuries & only this year I gave it a go just to experiment.

For those that want to I say go for it but as we have all said many times, brewing your own is all about doing what you want.

[Tricky Micky]

12 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Yeah, it's worth trying if you are satisfied with the look, smell of it but hell, yeast is only $4-$8 a pack so why stuff around messing around in the trub to save a couple of bucks. I have been brewing for centuries & only this year I gave it a go just to experiment.

For those that want to I say go for it but as we have all said many times, brewing your own is all about doing what you want.

Yeah I suppose you're right, although the process appealed to my lazy side - not having to clean out the FV each time after a brew was a huge time saver, at least for me, but if the lesson learned is that the process comes with a risk then I've learned my lesson well me thinks. Tipping 3 kegs of beer is the reminder and etched forever in the brain, or what's left of it. 

Edited November 9, 2022 by Mickep

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 minute ago, Mickep said:

Yeah I suppose you're right, although the process appealed to my lazy side - not having to clean out the FV each time after a brew was a huge time saver, at least for me, but if the lesson learned is that the process comes with a risk then I've learned my lesson well me thinks.

Well said & true but there are still those who will disagree.

That's OK, I think it is better to go with your experience/knowledge & the fact that there is a risk, so it is up to you to make the call.

[RDT2]

17 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Well said & true but there are still those who will disagree.

That's OK, I think it is better to go with your experience/knowledge & the fact that there is a risk, so it is up to you to make the call.

I don’t see there being a great risk you’re just emptying the fermenter and putting a new batch on top. I clean the tap and if the previous beer tastes fine there should be no problem! Probably less risk than the slurry method where you’re introducing another vessel/bottle jar/ spoon whatever your process is!

Edited November 9, 2022 by RDT2

[RDT2]

3 minutes ago, RDT2 said:

I don’t see there being a great risk you’re just emptying the fermenter and putting a new batch on top. I clean the tap and if the previous beer tastes fine there should be no problem! Probably less risk than the slurry method where you’re introducing another vessel/bottle jar/ spoon whatever your process is!

By geez I hope I don’t jinx myself

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 minute ago, RDT2 said:

I don’t see there being a great risk you’re just emptying the fermenter and putting a new batch on top. I clean the tap and if the previous beer tastes fine there should be no problem! Probably less risk than the slurry method where you’re introducing another vessel! 

Well, I have been brewing for many years without doing it & I am happy with my beers so cleaning the equipment each brew to me is no problem.

I understand that it can be done & that's well & good, I am not condemning it or crticsising it either, but I won't be doing it.

As far as re-using the yeast I have only ever done it a few times & that is all I will ever do as I don't have a problem buying fresh yeast.

For those of you who use the different processes I wish you well.

[Pale Man]

All grain Hefeweizen.

Weyerman Wheat. Weyerman Pilsner. Gladfeild Gladiator. Bit of acidulated. Lallemand Classic German Wheat Yeast. Should be a cracking Wheat beer.

 

 

 

[Cheap Charlie]

First time post here, been lurking and learned a lot from everybody here.  Very much a newbie and this is brew #24. 

Woolies larger

1/2 packet BE3

Dry hop 25g galaxy day 3 and then cold crash

Dirty batched onto 8th generation coopers commercial yeast slurry at 21º

May the abuse begin.. 

 

 

 

[Classic Brewing Co]

4 minutes ago, Cheap Charlie said:

First time post here, been lurking and learned a lot from everybody here.  Very much a newbie and this is brew #24. 

Woolies larger

1/2 packet BE3

Dry hop 25g galaxy day 3 and then cold crash

Dirty batched onto 8th generation coopers commercial yeast slurry at 21º

May the abuse begin.. 

 

 

 

Good luck, why only 1/2 box BE3?

 

[Cheap Charlie]

I'm trying to create a lower strength sessionable ale, like a lawnmower beer. I had this can laying around and wanted to see how it would go with the commercial yeast. Standard k&k calculates out at around 5%, but my brews definitely seem stronger than that. Can't quite work it out, as they seem to be a good 6% or so.

[Classic Brewing Co]

17 minutes ago, Cheap Charlie said:

I'm trying to create a lower strength sessionable ale, like a lawnmower beer. I had this can laying around and wanted to see how it would go with the commercial yeast. Standard k&k calculates out at around 5%, but my brews definitely seem stronger than that. Can't quite work it out, as they seem to be a good 6% or so.

I would suggest that only 500gms of fermentables the ABV would struggle to get to 4%, with 1kg it would be around 4.5%.

Of course, it would depend on how you are calculating it.

Guide to Fermentables (Sugars) - National Homebrew Club

Edited November 11, 2022 by Classic Brewing Co

[Greenyinthewestofsydney]

10 minutes ago, Cheap Charlie said:

I'm trying to create a lower strength sessionable ale, like a lawnmower beer. I had this can laying around and wanted to see how it would go with the commercial yeast. Standard k&k calculates out at around 5%, but my brews definitely seem stronger than that. Can't quite work it out, as they seem to be a good 6% or so.

Yeah I have had 6% brews and I can notice the alcohol and haven't noticed the alcohol on my 9% Belgian beers. Depends on many things like the yeast used, ingredients, hop levels. Are you taking hydrometer readings at the start of fermentation and at the end? That is definitive as to what the alcohol content is.

If you are after lower alcohol beer the easiest way is to just lower the fermentables. Instead of 1kg of BE2 or 3 etc measure out 500gm. That will give you like a mid strength beer around the 3.5 mark.

[Cheap Charlie]

Best move I've made so far is culture the coopers yeast. It makes a big difference and the resulting brew is a lot cleaner than the kit yeast. The only other yeast I have tried is US-05 which turns out great also. I've got a dozen coopers australian pale ale in botlles, the only trouble is will they make it for 2 months to mature? 

I calculate it from the scale on the hydrometer, which seems to be different from other calculators. Yeah I get the same results, 3.5-4%.