What's in Your Fermenter? 2021

[jamiek86]

@Journeyman not sure why that came up as what greeney said it was my post he must have copied what I said to quote me in post. Thats why I also said similar brews same ingredients same starting OG etc. So obviously coopers tins and malt have error in them the same as yeast and how it performs if using less yeast one time gives a lower fg to one with same ingredients that uses 7g more. think the only differance was one was 86 days pilsner and one a GCL so there u go that could be answer i was looking for. Also that 11.5 grams can work harder to get lower than 18.5 grams pending both tins having same fermentables which they probably don't always.

And yes it could have stalled or anything which is why its important to get consistent reading i suppose the one that finished higher got kegged so didn't have to worry about bombs but was still disappointed came in higher than expected.

Edited January 26, 2021 by jamiek86

[Greenyinthewestofsydney]

16 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

so u reckon doing this id be pitching more good yeast than 2 packs straight into brew at 15 degrees?

https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/

I think it would be about the same but have a look at this mate. Its a great calculator for yeast pitch rates and also has a function to build starters.

[Journeyman]

13 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

if using less yeast one time gives a lower fg to one with same ingredients that uses 7g more

The difference will not be the FG number - unless there is a stall the only effect of less yeast will be to increase the time to FG. Another thing that can increase the time is not aerating the wort so there's plenty of oxygen in there at the start. Yeast needs that to multiply. Once the ferment begins, O2 can destroy the beer. 

But unless under-pitched to the point it stresses the yeast and it shuts down the FG will eventually be the same for a particular recipe.

But yes, and 86 days and a GCl will be different - not because of how much yeast but because different ingredients in there for the yeast to work on.

[jamiek86]

6 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

 

But yes, and 86 days and a GCl will be different - not because of how much yeast but because different ingredients in there for the yeast to work on.

I was just actually thinking after sent reply that the GCL seems to have better head retention which makes me think they make the kit to finish higher to help with the head.

[Pezzza]

2 hours ago, Greeny1525229549 said:

IMO its impossible to overpitch a lager. I regularly do full slurry or pitch onto the yeast cake. Even done it on the yeast cake twice in a row. All it will give you is a cleaner crisper brew which is what you want anyway. I start my lagers lower and let them rise. Start at 7 or 8c and let it rise to 10c. I find it gives the best result.

Thanks for that Greeny.  Yes mate I find that pitch of AG Wort onto nice sized yeast cake from prior brew works well with W34 to produce a very clean Lager/Munich Helles style beer.  Hope to be doing something in that vein later in the week. 

Do you use external oxygenation i.e. bottle and stone - rather than just shake n splash methodology - seems like the ol' splashing does not introduce as much as maybe we'd like:

https://byo.com/article/fermentation-time-line/

Oxygen is rapidly absorbed from the wort during the lag phase. The yeast need this oxygen to grow and to produce important cell wall constituents. It is important to introduce enough oxygen into wort at the beginning of fermentation. Shaking the fermenter will, at best, add about half the recommended level of 10 parts per million oxygen into solution. This will produce satisfactory fermentation results, but to make sure a healthy fermentation will take place, oxygen can be added to the fermenter with any of several commercially available systems.

[Pezzza]

1 hour ago, Journeyman said:

Once the ferment begins, O2 can destroy the beer. 

Correct that the available O2 is used by the yeasts initially in primary ferment and thereafter anoxic conditions under a CO2 blanket (Coops style fermenters) and PFVs (sealed) are what is needed...

But when it comes to bottling - once again oxygen is introduced plus more fermentables ie Coopers Lollies or whatever - and the whole cycle happens again in secondary fermentation.

In that situation - the O2 is necessary and given the yeast use it in their secondary phase it should not destroy the beer - as it is consumed by the yeast. 

With respect to kegs - I guess that is the benefit of a PFV anoxic closed-circuit transfer.   And also one of the drivers behind natural carbonation in the keg filled with a non-PFV methodology. 

Edited January 26, 2021 by Graubart

[Greenyinthewestofsydney]

22 minutes ago, Graubart said:

Thanks for that Greeny.  Yes mate I find that pitch of AG Wort onto nice sized yeast cake from prior brew works well with W34 to produce a very clean Lager/Munich Helles style beer.  Hope to be doing something in that vein later in the week. 

Do you use external oxygenation i.e. bottle and stone - rather than just shake n splash methodology - seems like the ol' splashing does not introduce as much as maybe we'd like:

https://byo.com/article/fermentation-time-line/

Oxygen is rapidly absorbed from the wort during the lag phase. The yeast need this oxygen to grow and to produce important cell wall constituents. It is important to introduce enough oxygen into wort at the beginning of fermentation. Shaking the fermenter will, at best, add about half the recommended level of 10 parts per million oxygen into solution. This will produce satisfactory fermentation results, but to make sure a healthy fermentation will take place, oxygen can be added to the fermenter with any of several commercially available systems.

I use the tip it from height method mate. But I do have a spare aquarium air pump which I have been meaning to get setup. It takes about 20 mins as opposed to 2 mins of a pure O2 but rather not invest until I know there would be a benefit.

[Shamus O'Sean]

Posted this over on another thread.  Thought best to poet it here too, where I meant it to go.

I just put down a brew inspired by the Chubby Cherub recipe.  Except I did not have Nelson Sauvin hops, so I subbed in Mosaic hops instead.  Come the hop boil and time to measure out my hops and do you think I could find the Chinook that I was sure I had.  Nope!  Luckily I have a few other hops.  Decided to use Centennial instead.  The full ingredients list was:

• 1.5kg Thomas Coopers Amber Malt Extract
• 1.5kg Thomas Coopers Light Malt Extract
• 0.5kg Light Dry Malt
• 25g Centennial (Instead of Chinook) - 25 minute boil
• 25g Mosaic (Instead of Nelson Sauvin) - 15 minute boil
• 25g Cascade - 5 minute boil
• 5 minute flame out rest for the hops, then add cold water
• 7th generation US-05 starter

Mixed to 24L because was getting an OG of 1.048ish at 23L.  Finished up with an OG of 1.046.

Fermenting at 18°C

[MitchBastard]

11 hours ago, Graubart said:

Hey there Mitchie... yeah mate I am way too poor to put in two packs of yeast... nivver dunnit... I do starters too but not monster ones... 3L max....

My starter for this Pilsner was 3L. I’ve been on the starters for about a year now and never looked back. Just haven’t gotten around to doing a decent brew with the dubya 34. Will keep ya posted

[iBooz2]

AG batch #3 my mid-strength Summer Ale pitched on Australia Day.  I made up an adapter to connect the CO2 to the chiller and hoses at the end of chill down and after pumping the bulk of the wort into the FV.  Works a treat and ended up with 25 L into the FV as it was able to push out what wort I would waste otherwise so next time can tweak my water volumes to suit.  I dumped this batch onto the trub of previous batch which was kegged 1 hour before as I just ran out of time to remove half the slurry.

Edited January 27, 2021 by iBooz2

[Journeyman]

On 1/23/2021 at 3:22 PM, Journeyman said:

A real Ale with 1.5kg LDME and a kit yeast starter. (from the ID Sparkling can) OG = 1.056

An ID Sparkling can with LME can and Nott starter. OG = 1.051

1 hour 20 mins for 2 brews from start to cleaned up. Except for maybe 5 minutes setting up the 2 starters this morning. 

Just checked the SG on these - both at 1.002 after 4.5 days. And that is WITH the enzyme which is supposed to extend ferment time.

Now I have a problem - I HAVE 2 kegs but I can't get both in the fridge (5 max) so either I have to get stuck into the keg with least in it or one of these suckers is getting an extended cold crash.  Ahhh... the problems of a brewer.  

Also I am wondering if I've been wasting my efforts a bit. The previous 2 brews weren't exactly complex beers - a Real Ale can with LDME & simcoe/EKG tea and a basic Brew A IPA with LME and mosaic/cascade tea. Both are very drinkable and SWMBO says "very smooth" which I am unsure as to meaning?
 - Because the 2 previous to that were the 9.6% & 9.3%? Even so, these currently on tap are circa 7+% - still working on recipes using the enzyme.
 - Because the previous 2 both had bittering hops? Even so the boils were around only 20 mins or so, so not massive IBU's here.

If I can make beers this drinkable after 4 weeks in the keg, I'm thinking my best option might be to invest in more kegs and get into the pressure ferment arena. (I have a thread...  ) Is it worth it to pursue 'magnificence' in beers if my palate doesn't care?  

 

[Pezzza]

RYE

[Pezzza]

GO DUBYA GO!

Thanks to @MitchBastard Mitchie for the Dubbya inspiration for W34/70... aka Dubya 34 

[jamiek86]

@Graubart just doing the rye at room temp mate? looks like a tub of green tea with massive krausen. I bet it comes out tasting nice though

[iBooz2]

1 hour ago, Graubart said:

RYE

BB do you actually have any rye in that tub or is it only hops? 

[MitchBastard]

5 hours ago, Graubart said:

GO DUBYA GO!

Thanks to @MitchBastard Mitchie for the Dubbya inspiration for W34/70... aka Dubya 34 

Up the Dubs!

[jamiek86]

@Graubart what volume u end up getting out of that rye? looks like even with krausen only half full? you just do enough for a keg? Thanks for everyone tips on putting probe on side of fv with stubby holder and tape done it last night before started CC can already tell more eficient.

@Shamus O'Sean notice some tape over top even seal probe in completely atm mine just sitting towards bottom of holder still air getting in top so probably not always exact reading of fv wall but assuming sealing completely means using more tape all time and having sticky fv?

 

[Pezzza]

6 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

you just do enough for a keg?

yep

[Pezzza]

15 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

BB do you actually have any rye in that tub or is it only hops? 

Green Beer? 

Edited January 30, 2021 by Graubart

[Tone boy]

46 minutes ago, Graubart said:

Green Beer? 

Might be a good sipper for St Patrick’s Day!

[Pezzza]

10 minutes ago, Tone boy said:

Might be a good sipper for St Patrick’s Day!

Wooooooohooooooo!  Haha Luvyerwork TB 

[MitchBastard]

My saison went full burko and dropped 52 points in 3 days.  1.052 down to 1.000. It’s certainly not done flavour wise, but the sample I tasted gave me a fair indication as to where it’s going. Gunna be a goodun.

 

[ChristinaS1]

On 1/16/2021 at 1:29 PM, ChristinaS1 said:

Just put this brew on yesterday.  It is inspired by my last brew made which I made with Cents @ 20 minutes and a combo of Citra and Amarillo @ FO and for dry hopping. It turned out really nice. Don't have a name for this one.

1.7kg Coopers Draught

1.5kg light LME

700gm Vienna malt 18%

325gm Munich 10L 8.3%

200gm malted wheat 5%

10gm Denali @ 15 minutes

45gm Cents @ FO x 20 min

10gm Amarillo DH x 3 days

10gm Citra DH

10gm Mosaic

23L 

14gm Coopers ale yeast dry pitched. Fermented at 20C.

 

Trying to use up the Denali in a way I won't notice it.

 

Cheers,

 

Christina. 

Just kegged this. Decided to try natural carbonation in the keg again, as right now my keg fridge is full. Tried this only once before. 

Cheers,

Christina.

[Shamus O'Sean]

16 hours ago, ChristinaS1 said:

Decided to try natural carbonation in the keg again, as right now my keg fridge is full.

This is likely to be my regular approach.  I am at the point where a spare space will not come up in my kegerator for about two weeks.  I might as well use this time to carbonate the keg just sitting there in the room. 

I did the last two this way.  The really great thing is that as soon as the keg is cold it is ready to drink.

[ChristinaS1]

20 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

The really great thing is that as soon as the keg is cold it is ready to drink.

I had not thought about that aspect of things, but very true. It also appeals to me because I fermented in a bucket and so had to do an open transfer. It is possible the beer many have picked up a little oxygen during transfer; secondary fermentation in the keg will clean it up. 

Hey Shamus, what size is your keg? How much sugar did you use?

My keg is 19L. I used 70gm of table sugar, which is the amount PB2 recommended. This is less than I would expect based on how much I used back when bulk priming, but I am taking it on faith. 

Cheers,

Christina.