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Journeyman last won the day on January 4

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About Journeyman

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  1. Did the bottles break from pressure? Wouldn't a simpler way be to filter the beer? You can get a filter for less than $50 and it's reusable over and over and @satmutscould filter straight to keg and not worry about bottles at all. (if that's why he wants to do it)
  2. So soak them in water for a bulk prime? #FirstWorldProblems
  3. Each time you transfer beer, unless you are very careful, you introduce oxygen into it. It sounds like you are going to bottle then pasteurise then pour the bottles into the keg? That's 2 points of entry for O2 that will risk the beer - oxygenated beer isn't very drinkable. Why do you want to pasteurise it? What benefits are you after?
  4. Get yourself an Inkbird 308 wifi temp controller. Plug the fridge into it. Set the fridge on maximum cold then set up your Inkbird for the temp you want. Make sure to give the fridge a 3 minute window for changes. Compressors are not fond of instant Off/On changes. (see the IB instructions for set up) Also set the upper and lower temps at maybe 1° or 2° apart to give the system some leeway - you don't want the fridge going off/on/off/on because the temp changed half a ° That way the IB controls all the temp changes and you will not freeze your beer. You can also use it after ferment is done to drop the temp to 2° for a couple of days to cold crash your beer - this drops all the sediment to the bottom. And with the wifi temp controller you can just leave the brew in a room and make changes while watching telly or even from the pub. Something you may not have considered - in those temps you need somewhere with steady temps between about 18° and maybe 22° for bottle conditioning. Not really needed if you are kegging but for bottles they need that time to carbonate after you bottle. Wild variations in temps could give your beer off flavours.
  5. Or a slightly more oblique reference from Urban Dictionary...
  6. I had those exact words in mind. Along with, maybe a gun safe with a complicated combo lock that a drunk can't figure out.
  7. You're just protecting @MUZZYfrom the tremors he gets...
  8. I have only used bleach once, when I had some pellicle form in the last couple of days of a ferment. That FV got a damn good soaking and rinse out - think I did sod perc after the bleach as well. As above, the sod perc hot water soak has well and truly revived my older screw-top FV's. The older Coopers one came up great with just sod perc on a hot cloth to rub it clean - that didn't work on the screw-top ones. The residue on them was well set into the plastic and I thought I just had to live with it until I came across the hot water soak suggestion.
  9. Given what it does, if you want to do that, look for a sous vide machine - it does exactly this and will be a cheaper. Although you may have an issue getting one that is 27L big. But you could use a large stock pot and a 'stick' style sous vide and have a more versatile solution for less. Just curious as to why you want to do it? If you were making cider it could be a good idea - in fact now I know about it, that's how I'll be making sweet cider. Bugger adding stuff to try and sweeten it, just ferment it out, add some juice and pasteurise it. One problem I see is flat beer. It says to loosen lids - do that with beer and you have flat beer. You go heating beer and the CO2 pressure is going to skyrocket and likely blow your lids off. At the least you are likely to have them leak your CO2 out of solution and out of the bottles. I think maybe it would work for kegs - you have those small kegs with the beer droid thing, don't you? Do some measuring and see if they will fit. I don't see measurements for the machine so I'd presume if you put a tape around 13 750ml bottles with would be a few icms wider on both sides and have a bit of head space - not a lot because you wouldn't want water covering the tops of the bottles. So how tall are your kegs?
  10. Yes. The enzyme works by converting sugars otherwise unconverted. So there's a drop in body I guess, although I haven't really noticed. SWMBO said the beers were 'smoother' but that seems an odd word if they have less body. I also did something different - because it was a late decision to make the beers, I didn't leave the starters for the usual several hours. I would guess they were maybe 20 mins for each. I can see the difference this morning in the Kraussen - both are maybe 1 cm where normally next morning I have 7 or 8 cm Kraussens no matter what beer it is. I will be making sure from now on I do a proper starter, not a rehydrate-in-sugar-water version.
  11. Particularly holding 20kg of nectar at the time. There's that WTF! moment where you don't know what is going on but you DO know you can't let go.
  12. Today's Fail, or why the old Coopers FV taps are better. In 18 months or so, around 50 beers made, probably half in the older Coopers FV, I have never done this. FV on chair with wheels, for moving to the man cave where the fridge is. Park chair, open door, put wood chock in place to tilt the FV backwards, turn, pick up FV, turn and go to place it in the fridge. Wet feet and splashing noise! Pull FV back towards me so my t-shirt can release the flip top and stop the flow of precious wort onto me and the floor... Put FV in fridge, go get mop and bucket. le sigh.
  13. As of about 15 mins back, I have an English Bitter, 1.5 kg LDME, 30g EKG 20 mins, 25g EKG tea, kit yeast and... an XPA clone - real Ale, 1.5 kg LDME, 25g simcoe + 12.5g lemon drop 20 min boil and 25g simcoe + 12.5g lemon drop tea, Nott yeast, in the fridge. Both yeasts as starters with 250g sugar in 2L. Both came in at ~1.055, both expected at .057 from the SS. Dry enzyme in both, so from past experience expecting an FG around 1.005 or 6 for ABV = ~6.8%.
  14. Just hot tap water. You're not doing a boil. If you want you can sit the pot on the stove and apply heat while you mix - you're just dissolving it all so it isn't going to take much. Use 2L to start so you can use the other 2L hot water to swirl out the can residue.
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