Jump to content

Journeyman

Coopers Club Members
  • Content Count

    1,066
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Journeyman last won the day on March 11

Journeyman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

571 Outstanding

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah... I realise it's a rabbit hole. But having just spent 1.5 hours standing at the sink cleaning and sanitising 60 bottles... I'm thinking of still doing larger-than-20L brews and bottling a few from each batch. Then I have beer to take with me to friends etc. I figure I'd sell my 160+ PET's and keep the long necks for bottling. The force carbing thing is not a plan for onging production, but I wouldn't mind having it as an option without having to interrupt the on-tap flow. I would normally do the set-and-forget method but figure the dual-pressure manifold gives me the option without having to invest in extra reg and gas.
  2. It's not 'want' so much as exploring the options. I'd hate to go buy the things I think I need and then find I've got to change later or go buy extras. The dual pressure manifold thing looks like it would allow both pouring pressure and carbing pressure from the same CO2 reg - it's MUCH cheaper than a 2nd cylinder/reg and I don't have to force carb but I can if I need to due to faulty planning or a keg issue or something else. i.e. if I suddenly don't have beer waiting I can have one ready next day. But then, I am starting to sound like an addict. Beer... beer... where's my beer? I need it NOW! But I take your point. I just like to know all the options before buying.
  3. Would something like this be a simple solution for now? Run one at carb pressure and the other for serving? https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/dual-pressure-manifold-distributor-pack
  4. I like the idea of fast carbing. But it's clear the ~$90 versus ~$310 to go from single to dual means it's a lot cheaper to get 2 x 601's and just buy an extra CO2 - Does carbing or dispensing use more CO2? I'm guessing carbing because the beer takes it in where the pouring side just pushes things along. Also carbing has the whole purging side as well. If I get a 6 kg and a 2.6 kg would I be better running the 2.6 to pour and keep the 6 for carbing, purging etc? Or do I have things upside down? EDIT: Taking a look at CPB there's only $15 difference between 2.6 and 6 kg cylinders anyway so I'd just get 2 x 6 kg
  5. Not what I said though. You replied with "There's no ammonia in bleach?" which clearly suggests I said there's no ammonia in bleach. I didn't say any such thing. Then you responded with the quote which contradicts your previous post. Methinks you are confused? I just took a whiff of the White King and it smells nothing like a swimming pool, nor what I recall chlorine gas smelling like. But maybe it's just individual impressions.
  6. The keg on the left is hooked up to pour, the one on the right is being carbed? And so is the one at the back? What is the beast on the top shelf? You're not using a t-piece outside at present? Is there a reason to remove it when not in use?
  7. I didn't say 'no ammonia in bleach' but I just looked at the White King I have and it's sodium hypochlorite so I guess I have the smell wrong. To me chlorine is the swimming pool smell or house tap water smell and bleach doesn't smell like that.
  8. You can use the cans in a boil - be aware though Coopers use actual hops in their extracts so boiling them may increase bitterness more than you expect. But you can use the cans as-is. The cans should have Use By dates on them - one of my 1st brews was Coopers Draught cans that had gone out of date - worked just fine. You might need either fresh yeast (depending how old) or use the kit yeast and make a starter to get more viable yeast cells. First sign the cans are actually getting old is it goes a bit darker - still quite usable. If they are bulging I'd toss them.
  9. Ouch! Beerbell has Harris 601 for $99 but the dual Harris is $310!!! Guess I'm carbing at serving pressure.
  10. Yes please on the pics. I figure if I am doing this, I better do it right. Chances are if anything breaks I will not have the cash on hand to buy anything new. Buy cheap and you probably have to buy it again; buy quality and that's the only payment. Also I'm thinking I need disconnects for all active kegs? So if I get the '2 tap' conversion kit and have 4 kegs I need 4 each of gas and liquid disconnects? If I have 2 extra spare kegs they'd need them as well?
  11. Do most beers use the same pressure? How about if I do cider and beer at the same time? I'm wondering if I should be looking at a dual reg instead of a single. Also if I'm going to carb in keg, I'd need either a separate reg or a dual, right?
  12. CPB should be post-free if I order the Harris with the system. Thanks guys - advice may be free but this is gold for a tyro kegger.
  13. The FG isn't so much about what figure it has to get to as what figure it sits on for a couple of days. There are many things that can change how much sugar turns to alcohol. Reading on here, you will often see people who calculate what FG should be and go under or over that figure. To save on samples, you can keep a sample on the bench - at ambient temps it will likely ferment faster than in temp control fridge. and so give you an early idea what FG you will be looking at. Or you can leave it in the fridge beside the FV, then you can check progress without having to constantly take new samples. It will progress pretty much the same as your brew. Unless your SG is wildly wrong (you're expecting say, 1.010 and it sits at 1.030 which means likely you have a stalled ferment) the only FG to take notice of is when you get the same figure 2 - 3 days in a row.
  14. @MartyG1525230263 So CMB is a brand of tap rather than a type of tap? Any other upgrades I should look at? How are their regulators and manifolds? That seems another area I have read about people having issues with.
  15. Here's another Q... If SWMBO decides to take my upside down fridge, the taps on the current kitchen fridge will be low, realistically about 95 - 96 cms above floor level. I'm just wondering if there's hardware to bring the taps out of the fridge horizontally and then have like a font sticking out to lift them another 10+ cms or so? I'm thinking if there is I'd need a fan to keep the lines cold but that's minor. I'd also not have an issue with having to open the fridge to get things out of the freezer door - figure it will only be like hops and grain in there anyway and I'm not real sure about the grain. I got some 20L buckets with airtight lids from B's so inside a cupboard in the man cave should keep grains fresh for more than long enough.
×
×
  • Create New...