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Journeyman last won the day on September 2

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  1. Please explain? I mean normally I get most references but (poor night of sleep maybe) I'm not picking this up at all...
  2. Not at all. For a while (years) a lot of my job was helping people with their spreadsheets. Something about formulae seems to really mess with their heads. Even on occasion, accountant types - one might have thought they'd be all over SS's. At one point MS Access was a selling point for MS Office but with even a moderate understanding of Excel, Access looked a bit tired. And macros were so powerful Microsoft used them to create viruses. But the biggest issue was always the knowledge you need to be able to transfer relationships into formulae, which is where my experience stumbles when it comes to the brewing side - I need more understanding of how the components all work and it's not so easy when you have to duck and dodge from sheet to sheet. But they are just tables, arithmetic writ large - which might be why so many people these days think they are magic or something. Too many leaving school and even Uni unable to multiply, divide, add or subtract and speeling (see what I did there? ) is a foreign language and forget all about grammar - that's from aliens.
  3. Double everything would be pretty much undrinkable - IBU would be over 100 and ABV would be about 11.5% in bottles. You would need special yeast as well to handle that level of fermentables. Doubling only the LDME would be OK for bitterness and ABV would be around 8.8% in bottles. I think the bigger issue with that amount of LDME (3kg) would be dilution of flavour - it would make a very malty (sweet) beer. Dextrose, sugar, (raw and brown sugar give a bit of extra flavour that appeals to some people) and/or the enzyme will do the trick. I use the enzyme in all my beers - for me it removes the atomic farts results I was experiencing.
  4. I can't answer re the bitterness in the can but I'd likely swap out half the LDME for dex. I think maybe that much LDME in the rbew would give it too much body for a typical 'mega-swill-type beer - which is what I presume they are trying to achieve. PoR sounds right though - not a lot and maybe as a tea instead of a dry hops for a more subtle effect?
  5. Depends. Can you get the IBU and EBC values for the cans? If so you can [Insert] rows and add the info. If you do, post them here so others can alter our SS's as well.
  6. Sorry, just got my PC running again - HDD problems - still not running right but got Windows working enough to check things. My usual is 250g sugar (or LDME) and about 1L water at somehwere between 25 & 30
  7. I got a nice 2400W induction plate works great with the 19L cheap pot I got at the supermarket, does a good rolling boil of 10L wort - that's the biggest I have done so far. Took about 15 mins to go from mash out temp (75°) to boiling which is a lot faster than my electric stove. I've thought about an urn or kettle but I don't have any plans yet for AG so what I have works well and I can set a mash running with a sous vide stick and actually do another brew while that happens and set up for the PM brew while the boil happens - 2 brews in about 2.5 hours or so, 3 with cleanup.
  8. 1. New bottles shouldn't need sanitising. Quick rinse should be fine. 2. Most of us rinse after use, as soon as feasible, to rinse out the yeast remnants and beer coating the sides. Drain upside down, cap and store till next brew. 3. I don't know Morgan's sanitiser but if it is no-rinse, get a spray bottle and make up to recommended dilution, then when next brew ready, give a quick spray inside, around the top and cap then drain on bottle tree or upside down milk crate - something that lets the bottle sit upside down without the top touching anything. 4. Bottle the next brew.
  9. I head for under 30° so usually pitch somewhere around 27° - 28°. Depends on how well I judge the volume & whether I can add more water and still keep it under 20L. Maybe the temp contributes to fast starts? (or reduced lag period)
  10. My process means normally the wort isn't ready when I am making the starter. So it's been LDME or sugar used. Sugar seems to fire it up faster.
  11. I mentioned burrs re your hand grinder but I certainly wouldn't go buying a bean smasher. (blades) they are bad even for coffee - maybe making plunger it would be OK but they make far too much powder for espresso. Or brews... I've not seen the Gorilla brand mentioned before so I don't know the quality - it may be OK for small batches but the general word seems to be go for quality like Mill Master.(I think that's the brand) but they are expensive. The grain gorilla, on a quick look around on duckduckgo seems a decent machine - only neg comment was the hopper is a bit small for 5kg loads - not going to be your problem for now and I doubt having to do a refill once will be too much hassle. Users seem happy with it. EDIT: Where are you getting the Grain Gorilla - looking for reviews etc. everything seems to be EU based?
  12. A fermenter (FV - Ferment Vessel) is just a container - older times they'd use a large bucket and drape a cloth over it. to make a pressure FV, it needs to seal and be pressure rated. e.g. a plastic screw top FV might let a little pressure build but 10 psi would likely blow the lid off and your beer all over the walls. That one you show is rated (AFAIK) to around 35 psi, far more than the yeast will tolerate easily but the yeast will produce CO2 while it ferments and so build up pressure in a sealed FV. So, enter the spunding valve and gauge, which lets you set a pressure release value for the valve. Basically, stick your wort in the FV (or do it empty if you like) and connect gas at (say) 15 psi, with the valve would right out to the highest setting. i.e. completely closed. Turn off the gas or disconnect the line and then slowly wind in the valve until you reach the pressure you want - say 10 psi. Let the ferment continue - any excess gas produced above 10 psi will exit the FV - some people hook up a line to the valve outlet and use it to purge the keg they will use for the beer - just burp it every so often until either the ferment is done or when you're sure the recipient keg is pure CO2, then disconnect it. DON'T just leave it connected because the 2 kegs will equalise and start building the kind of pressure than can spoil your beer. Also be aware that when you disconnect, you've got an open line into a pressurised environment - stuff WILL come out! Try not to make it the beer! Get a bronco tap of similar to attach to the beer out tap of your FV - that way you can pour a bit to check FG. Note that best practice is to get a floating dip tube on the beer out post of the FV - that way your samples and eventual transfer will not be trub but nice clear beer.
  13. The difference I have seen, and the reason why I do a starter, is how fast the ferment starts and ends. Within an hour I have a layer of foam across the surface and in 10 hours a deep krausen - AFAIK, many accept a 10 hour lag time and 24 hours for a decent krausen - just going by random comments anyway. But it is a Vitality starter, not a Viability starter I do. Oh, and it's been a long time since I used anything but Nott. Can yeasts make good nutrients. It takes almost no time. I have a jar with a decent lid seal, boil some water, pour it in on the sugar and add cold to bring it down to under 30° then throw in the yeast, seal and shake. Loosen lid and let it sit and set about getting things ready for the brew. When I see a decent amount of foam I shake it again - when I'm done with the wort, I shake it again and pitch the lot. 1 jar to clean, maybe 5 mins of extra time and good solid ferment every time. Only time I can recall thinking my ferment had stuffed up was the time I tried the dry pitch idea and it was next day before I saw any foam. YMMV but I like having a beer ready to bottle or keg a day or so early - never had one that wasn't at FG by day 7, including the high ABV and stout ones.
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