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Brew Day!! Watcha' got, eh!? 2018


Beerlust

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17 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Finally punched in the post boil SG etc. to Beersmith, ended up with 76.3% overall efficiency this brew. I wonder if the Gladfield malt had something to do with that; I'd done a number of pale ales recently where for some reason the post boil SG was being missed even though the pre-boil SG and volume was spot on. This time the pre-boil SG was 1.5 points higher than predicted, and the boil didn't increase the SG by as much as Beersmith suggests it should, but the higher pre-boil SG ensured the post boil SG was on target (or a point above it actually). I'll be interested to see what happens on my next 'normal' batch in which the base malt will be all Gladfield ale. I have a Bo Pils to brew next, and then that big stout after that, after which I'll probably do another batch of the red ale and try adding the oak chips from the beginning of ferment.

I also need to get some more fn 25 litre cubes. The one I have from Bunnings has decided that it wants to leak wort ever so slightly out of the bung; I replaced the tap with the bung because the tap was leaking water when it was being soaked in perc. As a result the cube is out on the front deck away from anything important because last time a cube leaked like that it blew up, although that one took about 4 weeks to do so. Luckily this one will be pitched on Saturday all things going well. It also leaked out of the lid when I filled it and tipped it on its side to get hot wort up around the handle area. I might try those ones from Anaconda that Kirk linked to recently. I'm happy enough to use the bungs in them and simply fit a tap when I'm ready to transfer to the FV, but I'm not gonna put up with leaking shit.

Cheers

Kelsey

Ooh good, a chance for my latest favourite rant. 

The post boil bs gravity calculation seems - as far as I can tell - to be wrong. They appear to calculate the final gravity prediction based on the final volume including cooling. Which is obviously incorrect to do if you cool your pre-boil gravity samples when taking your reading. What they should do is calculate the post boil sg using the volume post boil and pre-cooling.

If you go back to your pre-boil sg and then manually calculate your post-boil sg with the simple formula:

(pre-boil volume / post-boil volume) * (pre-boil sg - 1) + 1 

Do you get something closer to your actual post-boil sg? (Remember your Bodmas now)

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It actually ends up about 3 points less than what I measured with that formula, 48.5 (1.0485), I measured 1.0513. I usually find that the 75 minute boils I do increase the SG by around 7-8 points, in this instance it went up about 8 and a half points while the volume decreased from 35 to 31ish litres.

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14 hours ago, Greeny1525229549 said:

@joolbag let me know how you go with clearing the rice lager. Its a beast I have yet to conquer. Quick chill plus gelatine doesnt conquer it as it does every other brew i want to brew with clarity.

Hey Greeny do you have a recipe posted on here somewhere?  I had a quick look but couldn't find one in the search

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I didn’t cube hop my latest pale ale and wanted to add a little more late hopping to it. So I made a hop tea with some DME, El Dorado and Riwaka hops and added it a few days into fermentation.

it isn’t quite the same thing but it still adds something. It is just a little workaround the limitations of no chilling.

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48 minutes ago, joolbag said:

Hey Greeny do you have a recipe posted on here somewhere?  I had a quick look but couldn't find one in the search

Afternoon Jools..

This was my latest one. I have done this rice lager a few times and have made slight changes along the way. Once I did it in rain water and took out the acid malt but I didn't think it came out as good as the tap water. I think the 100gm Melanoiden and the budvar yeast helps greatly. The 25% rice makes it light but the melanoiden and the yeast gives it a malty taste. Have also done it with Hallertau replacing the saaz additions. 

Note that I bumped up my usual 75% efficiency to 77% and got almost 80%. Rice conversion is amazing. 3L starter on the Budvar yeast and fermented at 10c and when it gets to 1020 or so I just take it out of the fridge and free rise to finish it off.  

Batch Size (fermenter): 19.00 l   
Bottling Volume: 17.60 l
Estimated OG: 1.047 SG
Estimated Color: 6.7 EBC
Estimated IBU: 20.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 77.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 89.9 %
Boil Time: 75 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt               Name                              Type        #       %/IBU       
25.00 l           Prospect Water                    Water       1       -           
2.80 kg           Pilsner - Castle (3.9 EBC)        Grain       2       70.0 %      
1.00 kg           Woolworths HomeBrand Rice (2.0 EB Grain       3       25.0 %      
0.10 kg           Acid Malt (5.9 EBC)               Grain       4       2.5 %       
0.10 kg           Melanoiden Malt (39.4 EBC)        Grain       5       2.5 %       
10.00 g           Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min  Hop         6       15.3 IBUs   
10.00 g           Saaz [4.40 %] - Boil 30.0 min     Hop         7       4.3 IBUs    
0.25 tsp          Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins)       Fining      8       -           
10.00 g           Saaz [4.40 %] - Boil 5.0 min      Hop         9       1.1 IBUs    
1.0 pkg           Budvar Lager (Wyeast Labs #2000)  Yeast       10      -        
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On 8/26/2018 at 6:56 PM, joolbag said:

Xenon your recipes always look good. With the double dry hop do you remove after 3 days and number 2 goes in for 4 days?

I've always just added my dry hops in a batch together after about 8 or 9 days , and they stay in the fermenter during cold crashing and I rack into my keg straight from the fermenter. However i am trying to get a bit more aroma , so am going with the idea of throwing the first dose in at about 7 days , let them soak up the wort and sink a bit , then hit them with the second dose for a few days before CC'ing. 

I don't use a secondary at all , always only use the one fermenter from day one until racking day. Never had a problem.

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Thanks @Xenon. I'm usually the same, one charge of dry hops after ferm has fi is Ed. This IPA I have in there atm says 75gm dry hop 1 for 3 days. Remove. 75g again for another 3 days. I'll report back how this presents and compares to a single 160g dry hop.

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So my wife has finished off the last of the dry Irish stout I made a couple of months ago. Maybe 1 bottle left but has asked me to make another batch of it.

Finally winning the war ha ha ha

so going to brew one tomorrow.

Only changing the Columbus out for centennial as a finishing hop.

 

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18 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

Hiya Captain.

I love Aromatic malt. What do you think of it?

I'll be sneaking some into my pale ales again soon.

What is the brewing app you use Captain?

P.S. Probably time to re-charge the phone. ?

Cheers,

Lusty.

Hey Lusty,

TBH I haven’t made my mind up about aromatic malt yet. I’ve only ever tried it in this stout. At 8% I don’t think it’s really doing a hell of a lot, I get this slight honey or brown sugar/caramel taste from it. But very very slight. For this recipe I think it was good to add for a little bit of complexity. I’ve tried some crystal oat before in a pale, but I think the flavour I was actually after was from aromatic malt. I’ll whack some in my next hoppy pale to see if it is.

How is it in pales? What’s your thoughts?

Brew app wise I use BeerSmith mobile. 

My phone is always in need of a charge ha ha ha ha. I’m a little bit hopeless like that. 

Captain

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I have used Simpsons Aromatic malt only once (in a mild) but given there were a lot of other specialty malts in the beer it was hard to pick out.

Is there a big difference between the English and Belgian aromatic malts?

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I've only ever used Dingemans (Belgian I think?) Aromatic malt.

It's very malty. I reckon it's like Munich Malt on steroids. When it's been milled/crushed it smells a lot like Milo to me.

If you don't like crystal malts & the added body they leave behind, but want a strong malt presence in the beer this malt would be suitable as it has the added benefit of having some diastatic power doing it's bit in aiding with the fermentability of the overall wort.

Cheers,

Lusty.

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26 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

If you don't like crystal malts & the added body they leave behind, but want a strong malt presence in the beer this malt would be suitable as it has the added benefit of having some diastatic power doing it's bit in aiding with the fermentability of the overall wort.

Precisely the reason that I was thinking about putting it in my standard pale ale grist. Reducing the Munich but adding aromatic while keeping the fermentability. 

My latest pale recipe I substituted Munich for Vienna and I’ll have to see how that pans out. 

Captain

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6 hours ago, The Captain1525230099 said:

Precisely the reason that I was thinking about putting it in my standard pale ale grist. Reducing the Munich but adding aromatic while keeping the fermentability. 

That's exactly how I started using Aromatic malt. I sort of treat it like a specialty malt with the amounts I use due to how malty it is.

6 hours ago, The Captain1525230099 said:

My latest pale recipe I substituted Munich for Vienna and I’ll have to see how that pans out. 

My latest brew has some Vienna in it. I find it has a light honey-like undertone to it as well as a nice malty character similar to Munich malt. I'd be surprised if the commercial Stella Artois doesn't have some in it.

Cheers,

Lusty.

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On 8/30/2018 at 9:07 PM, Beerlust said:

My latest brew has some Vienna in it. I find it has a light honey-like undertone to it as well as a nice malty character 

I can definitely notice the honey undertone of the Vienna malt after you mentioned that and I could probably back off on the Vienna be because of it.  

Great beer though

Captain

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