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Worthog last won the day on May 15 2019

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  1. ENGLISH IPA Nothing flash about the picture and nothing flash about the brew - except I brewed TWO YEARS AGO! Bottled in a PET. Carbonation good. Been refrigerated for greater than 12 months. The taste @ 23 August 2020 is brilliant. Based on a Coopers Real Ale can, I hope some of my notes make sense to you. Batch 55: English IPA-2 (Coop Real Ale) FV2 23 Litre Brew. 1.7kg Real Ale, 1.5kg LLME, 750g LWME, 300g Light Crystal, 200g Carapils, 20gms/20gms Challenger Hop @ 20/7m, 40g Hallertau Mittelfruh chuxed Dry Hop (day5-8), Nottingham Yeast rehydrated plus Kit Yeast pitched dry = 18g. OG: (predicted 1057) Sat 21/7 1055 FG: (predicted 1014 6.0%) Thu 26/7 1015 CC, DH, Mon 30/7 1013 6%, Remove DH, CC IBU/EBC: 43/20 Bott: 7/8/18 Comments: Wort start 19c. Rehydrated Nottingham pitched in at 24c. Kit yeast pitched dry on top. Ferment temp set to 18c. 25/7/18: Dry hop 40g Hallertau Mittelfruh (chux) 30/7/18: Remove and squeeze dry hop. CC 7/8/18: Bottle. Taste ok. Hops not powerful aroma. Subtle 22/11/18: After 14 weeks this beer is getting better. Nice melded grain/hop profiles. Licorice arriving. 8/8/19: licorice gone. Nice melded tastes
  2. I read all above posts. I had similar problem way back and it is partially the reason I went to glass, then kegs. 1. I felt my PETs were getting old and maybe porous. 2. During winter the bottles were dropping to under 15 or 16c. I believed my yeast, US-05, may have been shutting down and not properly carbonising within the 2-3 weeks. But you say your PETs are hard when you refrigerate, so, just a heads-up to my situation. Cheers
  3. I thought "hop foward" beers are later hopped beers. Eg; Hops added later in the boil, whirlpool, cube, or dry hop process to lift flavour/aroma.
  4. Please tell us about BU:GU which I understand you can use as a balance guide for sweet (malt) v bitter (hop). IanH Spreadsheet and Beersmith use it from memory, I believe. I find I can alter hop bill and timing to achieve the flavours I want but remain within beerstyle BU:GU guides using the calculation based on IBU's/OG. This might be a good basis for discussion, although for BU:GU guidance you must be able to calculate your total IBU's given hop Alpha Acid, temperature and timing(?) Cheers
  5. The reason I am thinking of doing this is; I had a couple dozen bottles of PA build up from kegging plus 2 or 3 bottles each time so I poured them into a keg and put serving pressure over them. They were mostly Galaxy/Mosaic hopped with a few Citras and Amarillo chucked in. These beers were excellent drinking from the keg. Good body, great flavour. A little bit hazier than normal but not too much. I may just go the extra grain path as you suggest, this winter, and wait for 24 bottles to build up again. Maybe the better taste is due to aged beer, higher ABV, as opposed to the midstrength I brew for summer sessions. Cheers
  6. I could get the extra carbo with my gas if wanted couldn't I, SOS'o? I'm doing the natural carb thing for better, fuller taste and with it some 'winter' ABV. Cheesenchips
  7. Ok, I could not search an appropriate topic/thread. My question; How much sugar to add to 19L corney keg to naturally carbonate? I would then leave keg at 20c for 2 weeks. Again, how many grams of table sugar? Cheesels
  8. The beauty of having my specially constructed beer in Pewter is the sun does not destroy the flavour on this wonderful sunny mother's day in NE Vic.
  9. @James of Bayswater, I set Compressor Delay to 10m. In the summer I remove heatbelt and only have fridge power connected to Inkbird. Inkbird is only a power switch, if your brew gets too hot or cold it either switches on the fridge or heat source. The fridge will simply do it's normal thing, coldness depending on where you set fridge thermostat. If Inkbird is set colder than your fridge can go Inkbird simply remains switched on cold cycle and your fridge's thermal protection will switch fridge off for a time. Cheers
  10. Remember, pewter is not a thin Al can.
  11. A heat belt connected to your inkbird would provide better and consistent temperatures. With my heatbelt and frigde connected to inkbird my temperature variation is 0.6c for the full fermentation cycle. Cheers
  12. The reason I did not disclose my favourite drinking vessel at topic start is I wanted somebody else to cop the dismay, derision and poo-pooings of the forum's hungry foxes. Enter the rabbit, @Beerlust; Standing on his hind legs and scowling at the foxes hoping they won't bite holes in his reasons or notice the beer drinking blasphemy - A tin cup, indeed! Lusty wins the Honesty And Truth award. I second every reason he states, except that "driest state and 'incontinent' rubbish". Here is my favourite drinking vessel below, plus the one I take caravanning… Cheers
  13. I'm not showing mine yet, but put up photos of your favourite drinking vessel. Not your best glasses of style, or your most expensive or unique acquisition. Put here your comfort 'jug', and tell us why it means so much to you. Cheers
  14. Given you are AG, there will be much advice on here! But before you go the full chemical clearing route, of fish guts (Isinglass), or plastic dust (PVPP), think about your process. If, like me, you BIAB, then you only need to add 1/2 Whirlfloc at 10m (28L), then forget all about it. Whirlpool your after boil, cube it , leaving all break behind, (commando hop your cube if you want), leave your no-chill cube o/night. Keep your cube calm while you syphon/tap to your fermenter leaving shit behind. After fermentation, cold crash at under 2c for 1 week. Keg or bottle at cold temp. If keg, refrigerate. If bottle do the due diligence, lots of cold fridge after carbonation. After specified time your keg will be clear and if bottle, if should be great with a slight bottom dusting of powder. That is my experience, anyway. I have proof photos on this forum. Cheers
  15. I use a belt around the FV in my fermentiing fridge set at 19.5c on the Inkbird (just started doing that again since summer passed - otherwise my fridge is dropping too low o/night. Only ever use heat pads as an adjunct in the depths of winter when my shed gets down to -5c o/night. (Usually for bottle conditioning) Cherrs
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