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About Worthog

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  1. Worthog

    Shelf life of open can

    The above Malt option will be better than the recommended enhancer for head and taste. Another option is a 1.7kg can of liquid malt. You can buy either Malt option almost anywhere, or even the Brew Enhancer 2 can be purchased at BigW or your local home brew store, if you are in Australia. Cheers
  2. Worthog

    Temp control....gizmos and gadgets.

    That is definitely SWMBO code for "yes". Seize the moment, don't wait until July! Cheers
  3. Worthog

    recovery hops....

    Tasting at FG test usually finds the beer bitter. This will change to becoming more balanced after 2nd ferment (bottle conditioning). Not quite sure this is the total answer given your description "bitter as hell" though. Cheers
  4. Worthog

    150 Lashes clone recipe

    Yeah, I'm thinking I could do Pilsner and Wheat to get it closer to the real thing. I can always swap to Maris in following brews as potential improved iteration of the brew. I have a week to decide. Thanks, Greeny Cheers
  5. Worthog

    150 Lashes clone recipe

    Well, brewers, This is my take on 150 Lashes scheduled for mash next week; To 22L 2.4kg Maris, 1kg Vienna, 400g Wheat, 200g Carapils (60m@65c) 15g Simcoe FWH 10g Nelson Sauvin, 10g Willamette, @8m 15g Nelson Sauvin, 15g Amarillo, @FO Dry Hop (chux+squeeze) 25g Nelson Sauvin, 25g Amarillo 11.5g US-05 rehydrated Key process steps 1/3rd Whirlfloc tab @ 10m Mash with no sparge will yield 20L of FV wort from No-Chill cube, Add 2L water. Ferment 18c DH at day 4 for 3 days. Predicted OG 1.038, FG 1.008, 4.4% ABV bottled The original 150 Lashes might use Pilsner Malt and Wheat, but I am swapping out Pilsner for Maris and Vienna. I think unique tastes in 150 Lashes are Wheat Malt together with Nelson, Willamette and Amarillo. This is my best guess at a satisfactory hop schedule for my process. I will let you know in 6 weeks how it went. All comments and criticisms welcome! Cheers
  6. Worthog

    Mashes and Steeping

    Does anyone do a normal BIAB mash of, say, 4kg of a couple of different base grains, and separately steep 500 or so grams of specialty grains, for the 30m or so, then add them separately into th FV? Just wondering if small amounts of specialty grain tastes get lost in the overall mash? Might be a stupid question. Just asking..
  7. This bloke is the heart, soul, and cultural guru of this site. He relentlessly and selflessly responds on a 24/7 basis, to all of our pathetic, ignorant, unhygenic, intemporate, uncontrolled, and repetitive queries. But not a bad word to anybody! Only studied and repeated suggestions. I'd be happy to come to Adelaide, assuming he would separate himself from Brisbane, to see him pinned as the Coopers Community Oracle! GOOD ONE, Kelsey! Cheers
  8. Worthog

    tank water and bitterness.

    Well, it comes out of the Ovens River at Wangaratta. Since about 1965 I have swum in it, pissed in it, fished in it and now I make beer out of it, and I'm still alive, I think. I'm not going to get into a discussion about ph until I learn more and chuck my swabs and get a gauge. The tannin I spoke about was like wine taste, when you get a dryness inside the cheeks of you mouth - I may be confusing astringency which I also know nothing about. I'm drinking nice AG grog, though, right now. Cheers
  9. Worthog

    tank water and bitterness.

    Hi Worry Wort. I was getting some "tannin" taste when I was using my tank (rain) water in my Pale Ales. I checked pH of water and it was high 5's compared to my town water low to mid 5's. What does that mean? No idea! Suffice to say, I have now gone town water only, for convenience mainly, doing 34L mashes. I tested a mash one time at 5.2pH, a good number I'm led to believe. No more tannic tastes but that could be due to my bigger mashes, evolved hop schedules and no-chill cubing. This probably does not help you a lot. Just my 2 bobs worth. Cheers
  10. Worthog


    So the actual dose of Polyclar is not specified with the product. The sales doco does say you may require more in a Pale Ale than you would in a dark beer. I have now established that 2 x rounded teaspoons in 150ml of boiled water, cooled and poured around 23L of beer, 3 days into cold crash, will provide the pictured above level of clarification in a 4kg AG Pale Ale. No hint of chill haze. Cheers
  11. Is it fair to say, if I use a higher Alpha hop like Simcoe for FWH, then I can use less? For example I use 15g for bittering, as opposed to more for a low alpha hop? Cheers
  12. Thanks guys. I like the cube hopping idea. Does that give you enough aroma/flavour to eliminate dry hopping? Also, I'm thinking about Beersmith3, but realistically I now only make slight variations to just a couple of beer types for summer and winter drinking. I don't know how much I would use it, and whether it might complicate things for me. You guys have taught me all I know about AG BIAB. Thanks. Cheers
  13. I would like some comments on my no-chill hopping, whirlpool and cubing process; I don't use any recipe or process tools atm. I am making midstrength pales and the taste results have been good, but I'm sure improvement is available for both taste and clarity. At mash out, I FWT with 15g of high alpha hops to balance the sweetness. Bring to boil for 60m Whirlfloc at 10m At 8m, I'll typically add 20g total of one or two lower alpha dual or finishing hops. At FO I add 30g of hop. Then I wait 15m or so before I whirlpool. Then I wait 15m before siphoning into cube, leaving 2-3L of break to chuck out. I cool cube to around 40_50c in water trough before leaving to cool ambiently o/night. I then like to DH 25-30g at first FG reading during ferment. Cold Crash and Polyclar at 1c. For instance, should I wait that time to whirlpool? Is my process close to acceptable practice? Cheers
  14. Worthog

    health aspects of home brewing

    Polysaccharide, anybody? Cheers
  15. Worthog

    health aspects of home brewing

    And between the pill coatings and the clarified beer I am ingesting a shed load of plastic dust, but do I look particularly worried? Cheers