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Titan last won the day on March 26

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  1. This the one I raved about in the goto bear thread.
  2. Posting it now on your English Bitter Thread.
  3. Dead space is the measure from the bottom of the vessel to a point on the wart outlet. Some interpret this differently. I use a measure to the middle of the outlet. So when im transfering my wart and my pump starts to suck air, by the time i react and shut it off it will be around the middle of the outlet. I just figure that my pump is designed to pump liquid and not air.
  4. I used to do the same as you and top up post boil with a couple of litres. Then i had a look at mash thickness. I think GF calc uses a standard value of 2.7 ltrs per kilo when its more like 3.4. The extra 2 or 3 litres at sparge will also extract more of your sugars.
  5. Shamus, to hit your target your total water volume should be 29l. 16l mash and 13l sparg. What are you using to heat your sparge water? I have a seperate urn that sits above my GF making my sparge process easier.
  6. I just want the time to brew a beer, any beer!!!
  7. Looking now for this will post when I find it. Note this is a AG recipe so can't convert to anything else.
  8. Thinking about this. Are we just experiencing the homebrew twang you get from a k&k brew?
  9. Try this https://www.britishpathe.com/video/home-brewing-on-the-house
  10. Really, maybe because you not a member of the fb user group it came from. Was just about the only pub in england brewing its own beer. Will see if i can find another link.
  11. Flat as my first English bitter in Adlershot 50 years later haha.
  12. Found this interesting on FB.
  13. 2 are usually used in 750ml bottles so 1 per 375ml. Also depends on the style of beer. 750ml for a porter or stout imo only requires 1.5 carb drops. Yes you can cut them.
  14. Looking at the manufacturers recommended temperature range should give you an idea of your temperature limit. For example US05 states ideal as being in the range of 18 to 28. These are tried and tested by the manufacturer. So what happens if you go over or under that recommended range? Lets start with higher temperatures. Fermentis have obviously reasearched that higher than 28 the yeast will produce unacceptable off flavours. Under 18 the yeast will not produce or impart its character to the beer. You need to strike a fine balance, temperature control is the obvious way to go, but if this is not possible try to hit the middle of the road and keep it constant.
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