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Brew Day What Have Ya Got - 2023


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9 hours ago, Back Brewing said:

A question regarding mini mashing

When you get the water to 70c and turn the heat off when you put the nylon bag in the saucepan can it touch the bottom or does it have to be just off the bottom because it might burn?

Good question.  Metal pots transfer heat pretty well.  The opposite is also fairly true.  So once you turn off your heating source, the metal will fairly quickly drop to the temperature of the water and the surrounding air.  By the time you turn off the flame, grab your nylon bag, get it in the water, clip it to the sides, the metal pot base will have cooled enough to not melt the bag.

Applying heat, if the mash temperature drops, is a no no though, as I found out.  You could add a few cups of boiling water to keep the temperature up.  Wrapping the pot in a few towels/doona/blankets will also help.

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9 hours ago, Back Brewing said:

A question regarding mini mashing

When you get the water to 70c and turn the heat off when you put the nylon bag in the saucepan can it touch the bottom or does it have to be just off the bottom because it might burn?

Hey BB,

I do a lot of mini mashes aka partial mashes. I do mine in a 10 litre cylindrical esky - a drinks esky. Because they are insulated, they keep the heat really well for an hour or so, and you don’t need to apply heat to maintain mashing temperature.

I also wrap mine in a woolen blanket of sorts for added insulation.

My process:

I calculate water volume at 3.3 litres per kilo of grain. I calculate strike water temperature (temp of water before adding grain) using the free calculator on Brewfather - it’s really useful. I get the strike water to that temp on the stove (typically around 75 degrees C). I line the esky with my grain bag (paint strainer bag from paint shop) and pour in the strike water. I add the crushed grain, stirring as I go so no lumps or “dough balls” form. I clip the grain bag up so no grain escapes and put on the lid and wrap it all up. 
You can open up once or twice to give it a quick stir if you like, which is what I do.

After an hour, open it up and lift the bag up to drain back in to the esky. I have a colander at the ready and slide this under the bag so it just sits over the esky to drain. 
 

At this point you can sparge the grain by pouring hot water (not boiling - I use hot tap water) over the grain bag (fly sparging). Or you can tip your wort into a pot for boiling, and submerse the grain bag back into the esky with fresh hot water - about 2 litres per kilo of grain will do, and let that soak for a further 10 minutes (batch sparging). I do the second option.

After batch sparging, drain the bag  and add that wort to the rest of your wort in the pot, and bring to the boil, adding hops if you like.

Anyway that’s what I do. I usually aim to mash around 67 degrees and it’s usually about 65 degrees by the end of the hour.

Hope that helps mate.

cheers

Tone 👍

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1 hour ago, Back Brewing said:

With all the talk of keeping temps even on mini mashes it is convincing me to get my digiboil and mash upgrade sooner and going all grain

You wouldn't be sorry mate, it is far better than mucking around with bits & pieces, may as well do it from scratch, so easy, much better beer too.

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Ryerish Red Ale

30L batch (22L of concentrated wort plus 8L top up water into fermenter).  4.5% ABV; OG 1.045 (Act OG was 1.044); FG 1.011; EBC 22; IBU 24

  • 3.44kg Coopers Premium Pale Malt
  • 1.37kg Munich Malt
  • 235g Rye Malt (hence the Ryerish)
  • 200g Carapils
  • 180g Amber Malt
  • 80g Crystal Malt
  • 60g Roasted Barley
  • 14g Pride of Ringwood 50 minute boil
  • 14g Pride of Ringwood 20 minute boil
  • 20g East Kent Golding 10 minute boil
  • Liberty Bell yeast @ 19°C

IMG_3922.JPG.1ac3c2d766199e0ad31701dd4e6332f2.JPG

IMG_3923.JPG.ca03f61dc6a176896790260af2417f6e.JPG

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14 hours ago, Back Brewing said:

The reason I'm asking is because I like the 23 litres as I get 3 x 750ml bottles for travellers plus the keg

I believe I have read that people top them up with boiling/boiled water, to eliminate the air pocket IIRC.

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This is from Kegland's website;

20L Cube for Hot Cube - Wort Storage

Set the scene..
You have a free weekend/weeknight to brew, BUT your fermenter is full. What..do..you..do?
Hot Cube it. The answers to your prayers. Have a homemade wort kit ready for action! If you have the need to brew, but maybe want to hold off on fermenting just yet, just hot cube it.
Made a double batch but want to save half for experimenting with different yeast or dry hopping.  Hot Cube it! 
Too lazy to run a wort chiller coil or through a heat exchanger, Hot Cube It
Too cheap for any the equipment I just said above, Hot Cube it!
Still reading? 
...*whisper* hot cuuuube it

 

20L Cube for Hot Cube - Wort Storage / Low Wines / Stripping Run

High-Density Polyethylene.
- Nominal 20L Capacity (23L to the absolute brim - just right for no-chill!)
- 100% Food Grade.
- BPA Free.
- Strong Carry handle.
- Thick walled for rigidity under high temperatures.
- Ideal for brewers hot cubing with boiling wort.
- Alternative to glass low wine storage for distillers.
- Comes with lid with food grade washer.
- Made in Australia!
- Sealed at the bottom for easier cleaning/re-use.


Please note these may not have a drilled-out bung hole. This can easily be done at home if not.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=homebrew+network+videos+on+filling+a+hot+cube&qpvt=homebrew+network+videos+on+filling+a+hot+cube&mid=5B4E8172D9766386D3095B4E8172D9766386D309&&FORM=VRDGAR

Edited by Classic Brewing Co
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8 minutes ago, Back Brewing said:

Ok I just brewed the Cali IPA I'm using VERDANT IPA yeast the fv is in the fridge getting cooled down 20c then I'll pitch the yeast 

When it reaches 20c do I have to stir it or do I just pitch the yeast ?

I never stirred any yeast, but I consider myself still a novice. The Cali IPA is really nice, mine turned out very tasty.

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