Brownsworthy Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks phil Hoping the weather stays like this it should get down to 18 currently 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Brew day was Sunday just gone -- using the Craft FV and experimenting with a pseudo-wort-cubing kind of setup on some basic brews to prove the system before getting a bit adventurous. Real Ale #1 (a.k.a. "I'm not witty enough to think of a pun-tastic name yet") Batch size: bit less than 11 litres (bit under half a standard 23L batch) Recipe: 1.7kg Coopers Real Ale HME 1kg BE1 (I almost didn't add this, but apparently it gives good results...) Yeast: As supplied with HME Steps HME + BE1 + 2-3 litres of water over gentle heat to combine (didn't bring to boil -- apparently this can change/spoil some HMEs). Divided concentrated wort between FV and sanitised 5L water cube. Topped FV up to a bit under 11L with cold water, temps around 22-24°. Topped cube up to almost full with boiled water, put lid on for 10 mins, then released pressure, re-sealed and tucked away in a dark-corner to cool/store. Pitched half the yeast, other half wrapped in foil and stored in a small air-tight container in the fridge. Notes: OG was about 1049, which seemed pretty normal (albeit a shade on the high side, probably from the BE1 and/or not making up to ~11.5L). The primary reason for not topping up closer to 11.5L is that I don't have a KK for my FV yet, and am a little worried that there may not be enough headroom. As it is, I have krausen on the sides of the lid but not the underside, so another half a litre or so may have caused a spill... Yeast storage is also part of the experiment -- I've used the foil/air-tight container trick in the past for bread yeasts to no ill effects, and while beer yeast is a bit different, controlling the temperature & exposure to light/air is probably a universal yeast thing (but I'm only a novice, so time will tell). The sides of the wort cube were slightly concave the next day (which I was hoping for) -- so it should be air-tight & sterile until I decide to make up another batch. I'm tempted to skip straight to my next brew (either dark ale or stout) after the FV is free and see how the stored wort fares after a month or two in the cube. I've read about AG wort being stored for around 12 months with no ill effects, but have no idea if anyone else is doing the same with extracts, so there's no real baseline to work to. If it results in a nice brew after a month or two in the cube, I might try experimenting with longer timeframes, which may eventually allow me to spend a few hours making up different cubes on brewday and make future brews even easier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hello It sounds like a recipe that should work out OK. Running some figures over those ingredients, I must admit I'm a bit surprised there is such a discrepancy between what I estimate and what you got, but it'll all work out in the end. Estimated OG: 1.040 Estimated FG: 1.012 Estimated ABV: 3.6% (before bottle carbonation) Estimated IBU: 31.8 Estimated SRM: 13.1 I have to admit that BE1 wouldn't have been my first choice (personally I would have preferred 1 kg of light dry malt or even a packet of BE2). And a quick tip, don't mention the "maltodextrin" word if you suspect Hairy might read your post shortly after he's eaten. I can't help you with No Chill or Fresh Wort Kitting, but I'm sure others will have a good handle on it. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Estimated OG: 1.040Estimated FG: 1.012 Estimated ABV: 3.6% (before bottle carbonation) Probably on the right track -- what size batch was that for? If you're keen to confirm your numbers' date=' I can get an exact brew volume tonight after work. I have to admit that BE1 wouldn't have been my first choice (personally I would have preferred 1 kg of light dry malt or even a packet of BE2).BE2 was actually my first choice, but there was only 1 box left on the shelf and some dirty mongrel had damaged the box. Admittedly, I didn't check whether the bag inside was broken, but in hindsight I should have tried my luck -- I might have been able to get it half-price as "damaged goods"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Just using your method description, the wort concentration is the equivalent of making a 22 litre batch (which is what I based the figures on). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Blackwater Falls ESB 5 Kg Pale Ale malt (54%) 2.4 Kg ESB malt (26%) 1.5Kg Vienna (16%) .2 Kg Crystal (2%) .02 Kg Roasted Barley (.2%) 25g Nugget (14.5%) 60mins 60g Cascade (5.5%) 42L WLP 005 Mashed @ 66C' date=' IBU's 32.6 ,SRM 6.6 ,OG 1.052, Boil 75 mins, No-chill adjusted. [/quote'] Brew day!! Today's brew was the first I've put down in over a month! It was also the first brew I've put down using my my new 10 Gallon automated, AG set-up! Two tier, Three 10 gallon keggles, two propane burners, 5 ball valves, a grant, and a pump. I'm still working out efficiencies and losses. This brew came in somewhere around 85% effic. which blew away my modest expected efficiency of 75%. The OG came in at 1.059! It was an awesome brew day and I'm happy to be back at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnaman Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Well done Chad, good to hear, hope you get fantastic beer. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Just using your method description' date=' the wort concentration is the equivalent of making a 22 litre batch (which is what I based the figures on).[/quote']I just noticed that I contradicted myself -- brew size is <11L but I typed "over 11L" in the steps. Ooops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 We brewed up another SNPA clone on Saturday. 5.20 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) US (3.9 EBC) Grain 1 92.1 % 0.45 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 2 7.9 % 18.00 g Magnum [12.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 20.6 IBUs 18.00 g Perle [7.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4 9.1 IBUs 30.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 7.7 IBUs 60.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Will use US-05 yeast. Ended up with around 25L, but will know more accurately when I put it in the FV. It changed slightly from the first version because the Cascade AA% was higher, just dropped the Magnum by 2g. Didn't quite get the efficiency from the first batch but it wasn't much different. Post boil SG was 1049, as opposed to 1051 on the first go. I currently have another pale ale CCing at the moment, so this one will go in straight after that is bottled. Still had trouble with the Simpsons Maris Otter going through the mill; the crystal malt had no issue. Don't really know why it's doing it, I know it isn't the mill, so it must be something to do with that particular malt not being gripped properly by the rollers. I have a sack of Fawcett MO waiting for when this other stuff is used up. Might even use a bit of the Simpsons to make some home made crystal malt to get rid of it quicker. Either way apart from that PITA, the brew day went well and looking forward to getting it in the bottles and ready to try out. If it's anything like the first one, will be hard to tell the difference between it and the real deal. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Well done Chad' date=' good to hear, hope you get fantastic beer. [img']wink[/img] Cheers. Thanks Magman, This set-up has been a while in the coming.. This first trial on it was great with no problems. I can only foresee great and consistent beer from this one. It's lots of fun too. Playing with valves and adjusting flow rates and the such adds a new and fun element to my brewing experience. Brewing like a pro is ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 +1 to Magnaman's post Chad, that will be one helluva lovely ESB. And I don't know where you got the Nugget, but that's a really potent AA% for it. It must have been a really good crop. Even though the expected FG by my reckoning is 1.015 (making 5.9% ABV), I won't be at all surprised if it ends about 1.010 (giving a pretty hi-octane 6.6%). I've been finding my AGs are attenuating significantly more than expected. When you have a chance, CanCanMan, would it be possible to take some snaps of your new setup? I'd be really interested in your mash tun and manifold so I could eventually emulate it to get such a wicked efficiency! Cheers Big Boy Philby Edit added: Brewing like a pro is... It must be different over there. I've never found a pro here that brews. D'oh!!!! Forget that last comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hi Chad. Nice to see you back brewing ya slacker! Brew day!! Today's brew was the first I've put down in over a month! It was also the fist brew I've put down using my my new 10 Gallon automated' date=' AG set! Two tier, Three 10 gallon keggles, two propane burners, 5 ball valves, a grant, and a pump. I'm still working out efficiencies and losses. This brew came in somewhere around 85% effic. which blew my modest expected efficiency of 75%. The OG came at 1.059! It was an awesome brew day and I'm happy to be back at it![img']happy[/img] I'm glad to hear the new setup is working well. That's super efficiency. Let us know how the eventual beer turns out. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hey Phil, I'll post a few pictures the day I can easily get them from my Iphone to the forum. Any time I've tried it's been more trouble than I care to deal with. I'll try to describe my mash set-up for you, though. The vessel is a 50 litre keggle fitted with a ball valve and a 60cm SS braided manifold fitted at one end to a SS elbow (street) at one end. This braid is positioned evenly at the bottom of the keggle. It is sitting on a burner for direct heat. I think the most important key to efficiency is to make sure the mash is properly stirred. This I accomplish by heating the strike water to a couple of degrees below my strike temps and stirring in the grits until there is no "dough balls". Then adding heat until the temperature is just below mash temps. Shut off burner at this point. The temp. will continue to rise another couple of degrees at this point. Cover the vessel for 30mins. after this time uncover and give the mash a good stir and light the burner to bring it back up to mash temps. Cover and let sit until a full 60mins are up.. I then turn on the heat and bring it up to mash out temps (75C). I then let it settle for 10-15mins before Vourlaf. I then Fly sparge at a very slow rate (750ml/min). This should get you 80-85% efficiency! Please, feel free to ask more questions! I'm sure I've left a lot to the imagination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Still had trouble with the Simpsons Maris Otter going through the mill; the crystal malt had no issue. Don't really know why it's doing it' date=' I know it isn't the mill, so it must be something to do with that particular malt not being gripped properly by the rollers. I have a sack of Fawcett MO waiting for when this other stuff is used up. Might even use a bit of the Simpsons to make some home made crystal malt to get rid of it quicker.[/quote'] G'day Otto I've also had some challenging times milling some types of grain. I did a little reading (though I had no problems with the last 2 batches so I didn't need to try it), but my next go to plan when I have problems is to moisten the problematic grain and reduce the gap. I have no idea if it works, but I'll let you know the results when I next need to try something different. Cheers and good luck (and that SNPA looks nice) Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hi Chad. Nice to see you back brewing ya slacker! Yeah' date=' No kidding![img']rolleyes[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I'll post a few pictures the day I can easily get them from my Iphone to the forum. Any time I've tried it's been more trouble than I care to deal with. This should get you 80-85% efficiency Hey Foreigner That was a really good description and it did give a really good understanding of your system. In case you need someone to host your pics' date=' feel free to email them to me ( cancanman at phile dot com dot au ) and I can put them on one of my web servers. Then I'll email the link for each of the photos back to you, so you can post them on the forum according to this link. You may or may not be interested, but if you are I'll be here until tomorrow night (Aust Eastern Summer Time) before I fly out for at least a few weeks. I'll be blocking and deleting that email address just before I leave for security purposes. Take care mate Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoggySam Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 2 Real Ale cans 1 Ginger Beer can 250ml Alchemy Chai Tea Elixir (contains 130g sugar) 300ml Bottle good quality orange juice 390g Honey 14g kit yeast 24L OG 10.52 Ferment 18-21C More or less variation of the ChrisMoose Ale recipe on AussieHB. Real Ale kits for colour and bitterness . Opted for the elixir (tea, vanilla, cinnamon, cardamom, and nutmeg) instead of fresh spices because is simplez. Same for the juice. Not intending to add hops at this stage. I underestimated the potency of the Ginger Beer can , it definitely dominates the flavour and aroma from what i tasted of the hydro sample. Really looking forward to supping some of this down come December. Might even leave a pint out for Santa to have with his cookies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Have you ever thought about annoying another forum instead of this one? Given your history of allegedly using 420 g creamed corn in one brew, supposedly a 21L brew without any fermentables other than a can of Euro Lager, and finally some imaginary twocan OS Draught in 21 litres fermented with ale yeast at 15C and 60g Saaz. I'm sure there should be a Troll Forum that should suit your needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hi guys. I've had a pretty rough trot @ work the last couple of weeks. Some very serious issues going on in my life atm that have sort of distracted & thrown my world & along with that, my brewing schedule all out of whack. I finally got around to kegging the 250cc Pale Ale yesterday afternoon, & took a few swigs from a couple of samples. Very hoppy as you can imagine! Fantastic bold citrus flavours, with spicy & tropical notes. A hop bomb in every sense. I actually think this will age very well, not that it's going to last long in my keg, but I did bottle 3 longnecks, so will give them some time. I had planned to put down another hop bomb, but simply didn't have time so threw together a quick kits & bits brew straight after kegging. Coopers Pale Ale 1.7kg Coopers Light LME 1.5kg CaraHell grain 150gms (steeped for 30mins) Riwaka (5.2%AA) 20gms (steeped for 30mins) Riwaka 25gms dry hopped Re-activated CCA yeast (6 stubbies) Brewed to 23 litres Fermenting @ 19.5°C OG = 1.048 (actual) FG = possibly 1.010-1.012 (expected) The six stubbies of Pale Ale I've used for the re-activation did take a day or two longer to show obvious signs that the re-activation of the yeast in each stubby had been successful before pitching. I'll admit this time around I'm not absolutely certain that all of the yeast in each stubbie was viable. Given what I usually monitor with the technique, I feel I can only be sure that four of the six used definitely have active yeast when pitched. I'm not worried though. If it stalls earlier than expected, I'll just pitch some kit yeast to finish it off. As mentioned in an earlier post, if the CCA yeast ferments out properly, I'll post some attenuation figures. Fingers crossed. Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I've had a pretty rough trot @ work the last couple of weeks. Some very serious issues going on in my life atm that have sort of distracted & thrown my world & along with that' date=' my brewing schedule all out of whack.[/quote'] Stuff work I hope things work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 MuSon Style: Saison Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.056 SG Estimated Color: 12.9 EBC Estimated IBU: 29.3 IBUs Ingredients: ------------ 2.50 kg Munich II (Weyermann) (16.7 EBC) 2.50 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) 0.50 kg Wheat, Flaked (3.2 EBC) 10.00 g Magnum [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Experimental Pine Fruit [14.10 %] - Boil Hop 1.0 pkg Saison Blend (The Yeast Bay #YBSBS) Yeast ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I've had a pretty rough trot @ work the last couple of weeks. Some very serious issues going on in my life atm that have sort of distracted & thrown my world & along with that' date=' my brewing schedule all out of whack.[/quote'] Stuff work I hope things work out. Thanks Hairy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hey Phil' date=' I'll post a few pictures the day I can easily get them from my Iphone to the forum. Any time I've tried it's been more trouble than I care to deal with. I'll try to describe my mash set-up for you, though. The vessel is a 50 litre keggle fitted with a ball valve and a 60cm SS braided manifold fitted at one end to a SS elbow (street) at one end. This braid is positioned evenly at the bottom of the keggle. It is sitting on a burner for direct heat. I think the most important key to efficiency is to make sure the mash is properly stirred. This I accomplish by heating the strike water to a couple of degrees below my strike temps and stirring in the grits until there is no "dough balls". Then adding heat until the temperature is just below mash temps. Shut off burner at this point. The temp. will continue to rise another couple of degrees at this point. Cover the vessel for 30mins. after this time uncover and give the mash a good stir and light the burner to bring it back up to mash temps. Cover and let sit until a full 60mins are up.. I then turn on the heat and bring it up to mash out temps (75C). I then let it settle for 10-15mins before Vourlaf. I then Fly sparge at a very slow rate (750ml/min). This should get you 80-85% efficiency[img']wink[/img]! Please, feel free to ask more questions! I'm sure I've left a lot to the imagination. I might add to this description a little bit about "vorlauf" and my Grant. The Grant is a 4L HDPE bucket that I have fitted a hose fitting and 10mm hose. This vessel is gravity feed from my Mash tun at a flow rate of 1 Litre/min. The 10mm is the attached to the pump and is recirculated back on to the mash. I used to do this manually with a pint mug for as long as I could stand it. Now with the pump doing it for me I can stand back and let the mash clear itself. I have a 250mm inline sight glass to watch the wort clear up. It's only my first time using the pump on brew day but I can see this having a big impact on clarity and consistency of the wort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hi Chad. Albeit I'm not completely wise on all things All Grain, I am familiar with the re-circulation of wort term. I would really be interested in seeing some photos of your current setup, & a bit of info about how you use it etc. Any chance of a few photos etc? Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 MuSon Style: Saison From what I've seen, you are the resident Saison expert, Ben. Hope it goes well and will be interested to hear how it turns out. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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