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antiphile

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Everything posted by antiphile

  1. Be going? It's time you made another visit to planet Eartb, big boy! But seriously, as others mentioned, I'd guess the problem may either lie in the tap (dismantleit into 2 parts, clean it all with a soft toothbrush, and soak the pieces separately in a trusted sanitiser for 24 hours), scratches inside the FV harbouring bugs, or a "localised" nasty bug like acetobacter that needs lots of work to eliminate. It would help if you could provide as detailed a description of the symptoms as possible to track down the probable cause eg. vinegar taste smell etc, noticeable days or weeks in FV etc. Cheers
  2. Good evening again, to all and sundry. As the Otter mentioned, there was an enjoyable few hours spent yesterday with one of the no-hopers trying to have a chat over some less than spectacular beers. Admittedly I was a bit surprised by his 2 heads and 13 fingers, but once we got him some paper bags a good time was had, at least by me. I think I've totally confused the poor man on the way to lose money at craps, but perhaps that's a good thing. And I haven't forgotten you, Ben. I'll be in contact through the week. Time to get back to my midlife crisis so hope you all take care,play nicely, and brew up a storm. Catch you soon (ish) The antiphile
  3. No probs. I'll be the one one in the LBD with flats. Hang on, ignore that. I'm not working tomorrow. See you there, Sir Otto.
  4. Hey guys Ben: I'll have the lappie connected next week so I'll be able to track down your email addie then and drop you a note. Using this phone to type is a bloody nightmare. Ob Von Blob: You should drop in to the Treasury tomorrow. Go to the craps tablr in the arvo and just ask one of the staff there where Phil is (Often at the table or having a fag -- and if I can't find one I'll be having a cigarette.) But seriously, if you can give an indication of time, I can let the staff know where I can be found. Would love to meet up for a drink.
  5. A big hello and welcome to all my degenerate scum colleagues from an occasional contributor. And also to the new members who are yet to take the final plunge into the elite club of the walking drunk. An interesting time has been had by one over the last fortnight and I expect the next few weeks as well. If anyone wishes to closely experience the gamut of their emotions, may I suggest you join me. These, days, I'm usually found at either the craps* table of the Treasury Casino, upstairs in the Club private gambling area shouting Moet Chandon to anyone walking past, or sitting in the gutter of the Queen Street mall begging for used cigarette butts. It's all a very novel experience. On a side note, the chances of finding a drinkable beer in any of the bars and clubs in the entire casino complex are lower than winning a pokie grand jackpot. At least most of them have Coopers Pale on tap but after that it is very slim pickings. The Kitty Bar has Hop Thief on tap, upstairs in The Club and The Suite you can usually convince the barperson to retrieve a stubby of 150 Lashes from the very back of his bar fridge with lots of persistence, but that's about it. Of course, there's the usual bottles of imported lagers but they're all starting to taste bland and almost interchangeable. Good luck to all and the best of British. I'll try to pop in soon when I have my next opportunity at internet access, or if I manage to hack my way into ASIOs backbone. Cheers from the Philster * I love the alliterative possibilities with the words "Coopers" and Craps". I wonder if PB2 has considered sponsoring the table. Even a simple catchphrase might do the trick: Coopers Craps -- Get Lucky! PS. If anyone hasn't seen it, Tim Minchin has released a song overnight titled "Come home, Cardinal Pell" in honour of the survivors or sexual abuse by the clergy in Ballarat. Not only is it a great song, but it really carries a lot of punch too. It's on YouTube but for any lazy buggers, .
  6. The closest you'll get to CCA yeast would be White Labs WLP009 or the Wyeast equivalent.
  7. Hmmmm. Doesn't look like one of mine, I'm afraid.
  8. Hi Large Platter If you are getting no bubbles in the glass, it's unlikely to be a problem with the BE1. It sounds as though it's carbonation problems or perhaps even some contribution from the beer glass itself. There is a lot more info in here about how to treat beer glassware than I can provide, but a couple of quick tips are: (a) don't wash them in a dishwasher, and (b) only ever use hot water without detergent to clean them. A man here with a huuuuge amount of expertise (via his job) is Headmaster and hopefully he can chime in. For carbonation, our German friend, Otto, has written a nice list of causes and do's and don'ts in a post -- so he may be able to help you better or you can do a forum search. Certainly head creation and retention is a different problem to lack of carbonation, but I'd be looking at solving the carbonation problem first. Perhaps you can give more detailed info on how the bottles were primed, stored etc. Cheers
  9. Congrats, Gibbon. You've just made my list too 'cos you've reminded me I started doing the element in the pot thingy about 12 months ago and never got around to finishing it. Gash did something similar and put a on Youtube to enable all of us wannabes to electrocute ourselves if we want (but I must say it doesn't look terribly difficult for a person that didn't need to go to a Special Needs School). Disclaimer: If in any doubt, please get a sparky to check it out before plugging it in! Cheers mate
  10. You, my dear sir, are going to do bloody well here. You're prepared to read/research, and I'm guessing that being a scientist you'll take good notes of your brews. BTW, I lied when I said that was my medical history. It is actually my current clinical position. Don't be a stranger (and put as much sh!# as possible on Magnaman!) Cheers
  11. G'day Beanbag. Since you're a relatively new poster it wouldn't be fair to sit on you. At this stage, I wouldn't be too worried. It's now about 2 weeks for the brew, so I'd be tempted to bottle it and then see what it's like in about 3 weeks. It really can taste very different in the fermenter, compared to it being bottled and chilled. Don't sweat it -- I think you'll probably be fine. Cheers
  12. G'day Bonzo I expect your first brew is the OS Lager and BE1 included in the DIY kit. Don't get me wrong, 'cos it will turn out to be very drinkable (but ignore the temperature instructions and if possible try to ferment it somewhere around the 18-21C mark if you can). Almost all of us did that brew, and many were a little underwhelmed about it being a bit bland, but you can be very proud you made it yourself and then go on to ones you will just absolutely love! There's a lot of people here willing to help you anyway they can, so don't be hesitant to ask. The above quote is something you might have to get used to with some people here. This person is quite happy to spread around my microbiological medical history (chlamydia' date=' genital herpes, candida albicans of the anal sphincter, and a presumed variant of Treponema pallidum carateum etc), even though I have never ever mentioned he sits on his verandah playing [i']Duelling Banjos[/i], is intimately involved with his immediate family and thinks grits is a gourmet meal. Yet I suppose someone has to be the bigger man about it. But I digress. Welcome to the family (and remember you can't choose your relatives). Typhoid Phil
  13. I bow to you now, Gag. You have well and truly wrong-footed me on that one. I downloaded and watch the TV series of the HHGTTG about twice a year, and have all of the audio-books of the series, but I have to admit I've never heard of Gag Halfrunt before. I looked it up and now know he's Zaphod's psychiatrist (I hope you're reading this post Beeblebrox). Cheers mate and it's bloody nice to meet someone even weirder than I Phil
  14. Hi Gag Welcome to the degeneration of your life. Now call me silly, but wouldn't a half runt also be considered a runt? I think you may be getting a tautological tutelage. To add an avatar, go to the top of this page and click on "Visit Coopers Club" and choose "My Brewery Dashboard". It's pretty self explanatory from there. Welcome and cheers
  15. Now. You listen to me' date=' Angela Merkel. I do [u']not[/u] play name games. Further, I expect tsarcasm is a gorge where they buried the Romanov family in 1917. And I absolutely deny I have any knowledge or experience, but I still refuse to take a polygraph. And there is nothing you can do about it; so take that! Yet, just to keep the pretence up for a little longer, I commend you on your advice and permanent marker for his technique. However, Angela, you have now made my top 10 of members I'd like to put excrement on. Cheers guys
  16. You have no one to blame but yourself. There is no person alive that can talk when you have your tongue between their tonsils.
  17. Our man in the trenches, AnzacPaul, has good ideas and puts them into words much more clearly than myself. BTW, I know quite a few brewers with OCD and/or on the ASP spectrum and its their attention to detail makes them bloody good at creating beer. I'm sorry I lead you astray, but I never meant to give you the impression that after adding the hops you should immediately cold crash. I should have stressed that you should leave it long enough so you are sure you have reached your FG. After you've added the extra hopped wort, another 4 or 5 days should be sufficient to get to the final SG, but only trust your hydrometer to ensure that has been acheived (personally, I like to leave the brew for at least 10 days and usually more in the FV, or until I get a steady SG reading over 3 days, whichever is the latest). But like a few others here I can think of that have approached brewing very seriously with keeping great notes, doing a lot of research, and paying attention to detail (in my short time here anyway), you are going to do very well. Two spring to mind immediately (porschemad and magnavox), but they're entirely different to you 'cos they're both dickheads! Cheers mate
  18. From what I can see, my oil pen friend, the harshest critic of your technique is likely to be you. You've identified a few things that some might say are a little less than ideal, but there is nothing that will stop that being a nice brew. And we've all done some things that are less than ideal and we learn from it. As for the actual brew itself, if you made it to 23 litres, it looks like the OG would have been about the 1.032 mark, and a rough estimate of the final gravity is around 1.009. After bottle priming this should give you a really nice beer around 3.3% ABV. I agree with you that it won't hurt to put a touch more bitterness for an APA, 'cos without adding any additional hops it'll only be about 18 IBU (if it were me I'd be aiming for about 28 on an early brew and seeing if that will be bitter enough for your palate. Of course which ones to use is difficult beacuse if you ask 5 brewers you'll get 6 opinions. I like Centennial and cascade as a mixture, but I wouldn't just steep them, I'd boil them in, say a 2 litres of water with 200 g DME, to actually extract a bit more bitterness than a hop tea, Then allow to cool and strain into the fermenter about 5 or 6 days after pitching the yeast. To get bitterness, flavour and aroma, one possibility is 20 grams centennial boiled for 10 mins (about 7.5 IBU), and 25 grams cascade boiled for 5 minutes (about 3 IBU). However, that's just one idea. Note: Of course, you could strain it in before then (being careful with sanitation), even today if you wanted, but my preference would be to do it before cold crashing. All the best mate, and "you done good!"
  19. Hello again Jarlsburg I'm making a few assumptions here, viz., you'll have a 60 litre boil kettle, an adequate sized mash tun (maybe 50 litres or so), and several sufficiently sized FVs (say, at least 2 X 60 litres). And you'd like to do an approximately 100 litre brew. OK. There are 2 approaches you can take, but first let me just mention a few things that I've noticed on my kettle (which is also a 60 litre). I have tried starting the boil almost filling the kettle (once to 58 litres and once 57) and both were very messy adventures in brewtown. When they hit the hot break (and on the larger one when I added the early hops as well), I was amazed how much of a mess a foamy boil-over makes, and that's even with (what I thought was) good heat control. With the second one I was told to have a spray-bottle with cold water handy to dampen down the foam when it hit the hot break, and while it probably helped, it wasn't enough. So the absolute maximum I start a boil is with 55 litres these days (and that's with the spray bottle and heat control ready). It might still boil over a bit occasionally, but it's not all that much fortunately. Then, without any kettle top-ups during or after the boil, I can drain out about 46 litres max into the FV(s) and leave 3 litres of trub. In terms of the FVs. mostly I max out at 50 litres in a 60 litre FV to give it enough headspace and room for krausen etc. If this isn't making any sense, let me know, BTW. So, you really have 2 good options IMHO. One is to go for broke and make a very high gravity beast using a double or a triple reiterated mash. That is going to be one helluva long brew day (and even much longer if any decoctions are planned). There's a lot of guys here that do an AG brewday much, much quicker than I, but I think most use crown urns and BIAB etc so I suspect they may not be able to get the volumes you want. On the other hand, with my 3V system, while I don't hold the record for efficiency (I think that goes to the Chadmeister), I currently work on an 82% overall efficiency and get a mash efficiency of 89% (but that's after a long time of fine tuning processes on the rig). So essentially, if you want to do almost 100 litres of pale ale, you'd really want an end of boil SG of about 1.090 or more, and add nearly 50 litres or so of water. I suspect this might be a bit hard to do. That being the case, I reckon you're best bet may be to 2 successive brewdays over one weekend each being of normal duration. So you're making 2 X 1.045 (or whatever) 50 litre worts. Disclaimer: I've not tried this technique but it seems many people have had great success with it (see, for example, AHB). The technique is called drauflassen and it sounds pretty straighforward. The advantage, of course, is you only need sufficient yeast for 50 litres to make a 100 litre batch. It might be worthwhile giving a read, mate. Cheers. Edited: I didn't even attempt to answer your bitterness question. Assuming you collect 60 litres of wort at an IBU of 100, and you dilute it with 40 litres water to make a total of 100 litres, then the IBU of the 100 litres will be: 100 IBU times 60 litres divided by 100 litres which equals an IBU of 60. Was that the question?
  20. Message received mate. I'll get on to it.
  21. Sorry Away. I checked the logs and it was certainly rejected at 6:53 am this morning. Perhaps it had something to do with the hyphen being an illegal character. But you'll be glad to hear I'm still getting all of my allotted spam mail! Could you try again when it suits. Cheers mate
  22. Settle, petal. Don't worry about the destination, just enjoy the ride. Brewers yeast is a wonderful thing. As opposed to my kids, it cleans up after itself. In 3 weeks you'll be wondering what you were concerned about. And if you can keep it around the 19 to 20C mark, that's perfect. It probably wouldn't hurt to take an SG reading, but that's purely optional. Cheers mate, and good beers in the weeks to come. Phil
  23. Whoops. Well spotted No. 1. I'd agree with you that if he's already started the brew, it may be better to let it finish as is. After all, I reckon 99% of us did that brew initially , and we still went on to become addicted. Thanks Marko. Cheers.
  24. G'day Marko-person (I need to be PC I'm told) Recultured Coopers yeast would be a fantastic alternative, and absolutely ideal for an American-style Pale Ale. Keep the temp to below 21C if you can, and you'd find it bloody hard to find a better yeast (liquid or dried). Cheers
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