Beerlust Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 As far as the brew colour goes' date=' I think the Crystal 60 is hurting the colour & is darkening it beyond the red hue your are looking for. I think Hairy wrote recently that a "less is more" approach will help with creating the desired hue. That makes a lot of sense in this scenario I reckon. [img']cool[/img] I disagree with the Crystal 60 being the issue. It's on the lighter end of the scale for crystal malts and probably doesn't really contribute a hell of a lot of colour. My recipe uses Caraaroma which is basically a dark crystal malt, which really brings out that toffee flavour too, plus the 75g black patent. Admittedly it looks kinda brown when you're brewing it but once it goes through fermentation and you pour a glass, it looks exactly like my avatar pic here. That really depends on how dark you want that red hue to be. i.e. towards brown, towards amber, towards ruby, towards strawberry. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobiasA Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Dr Smurto's Golden Ale... but with some LDM to boil the hops in :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Last two were cubed and poured into FVs last night. Slurry pitched. Big krausen tonight, smells and looks great. Love the gladwrap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Thanks Otto.I was thinking the same thing when I designed the recipe. I was a little started by the brown colour of the wort but I can believe that the finally product will be the colour that I'm after. This is good to hear - perhaps my red ale and viking beer will come out red too. I thought that because the wort and samples were brown I'd failed. Next Friday marks two weeks in the bottle for my red ale, so now I have some optimism (albeit slight) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bardus71 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 I could babble on for ages' date=' but don't want to bore the @#$% out of you too much. Try the following recipe at the lowered ferment volume, I think you'll enjoy the end result. It does involve buying some extra yeast from your local homebrew shop, but it will produce a [u']full flavoured[/u] beer with the Coopers Irish Stout kit at around 6.7 - 7.0% ABV. Coopers Irish Stout 1.7kg Coopers Liquid Light Malt Extract 1.5kg Coopers Light Dry Malt Extract 500gms Dextrose 300gms *** IMPORTANT: Buy some Nottingham dry yeast from your local homebrew shop! *** Pitch both the Coopers yeast (under the lid) & the Nottingham yeast. Brew to 20 litres. Original Gravity = approx. 1.064 Final Gravity = approx. 1.016 Good luck with whatever you decide to brew. Anthony. Lustful One, I have the ingredients for your suggested brew ready to go. Question is: Cooper's yeast top recommended temp is 26 degrees, Nottingham yeast MINIMUM recommended temp is 30 bloody degrees! What to do, what to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 ' date=' Nottingham yeast MINIMUM recommended temp is 30 bloody degrees! What to do, what to do? [/quote'] No it's not. http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/nottingham-ale-beer-yeast The recommended fermentation temperature range of this strain is 14° to 21°C (57° to 70°F) with good tolerance to low fermentation temperatures (12°C/54°F) that allow this strain to be used in lager-style beer. With a relatively high alcohol tolerance, Nottingham is a great choice for creation of higher-alcohol specialty beers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Hi bardus. As Ben has just notated, the Nottingham yeast has a good operating temperature range, excellent attenuation, good in high gravity brews, & is suited to this recipe (IMHO). That's predominantly why I recommended it for you. Without fully understanding this aquarium heater type setup of yours, if you can hold the brew temperature at approx. 18°C throughout the primary ferment, I'm pretty sure you'll end up with a nice beer (at the higher ABV% you asked for) as an end result. Aerate your brew wort well, & don't forget to pitch both the kit yeast, & the Nottingham. Good luck with the brew. Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bardus71 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Ok, bear with me while I wrestle the contradictions. My packet looks like the one here Have I got a different strain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Can you tell me where it says to ferment at 30°? The rear of that packet says to rehydrate the yeast in water @ 30° NOT ferment at that temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bardus71 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Can you tell me where it says to ferment at 30°?The rear of that packet says to rehydrate the yeast in water @ 30° NOT ferment at that temp. Ben10' date=' you are right. I hereby bestow upon you the title of.... [img']http://i1.cpcache.com/product_zoom/314255777/video_gamer_noob_slayer_beer_mug_stein.jpg?height=460&width=460&padToSquare=true[/img] Cheers mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bardus71 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Noob mistake #1. I pitched both yeast packets, checked the temp. Too hot. Panicked, dropped in ice, stirred it in. Ideal temp attained, but yeast have disappeared from the surface. Is this a bad thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 What was the temperature when you pitched the yeast bardus? My gut feeling is it probably wasn't massively higher than the desired fermenting temperature. If that is the case, it appears you've acted fairly quickly to rectify the temperature so all should be OK. Pitching your yeast at a slightly higher temperature than you plan to ferment the brew at is actually a good thing (IMHO), as it creates a good environment for yeast growth prior to it fermenting the brew wort. My first hand uses with Nottingham is that it is a beast! Once it gets up & going, I'd expect that it'll rip that brew of yours 'a new one'! Just be patient, I'm sure you'll see signs of fermentation soon. Please keep us updated on how it's going. I'm personally quite interested in this brew of yours, as it's my head on the chopping block if anything goes wrong! Haha! As you're a bit of a film buff bardus, "Keep the faith Strannix!" Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bardus71 Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 All good Anthony. Frothing nicely this morning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I put down the Hop Gobbler recipe tonight. What a beautiful smell from the steeped choc and dark crystal malt! The only variations I did to the recipe was to use Briess Amber malt extract instead of Coopers, to boil the 25g EKG hops for about 1min and then let steep for another 15 while the grains were steeping in a separate pot, and to use 11.5 Safale S-04 yeast instead of the Coopers kit yeast. Sitting nicely at 20 degrees in the fermenter now. It's cold nights now so I've got the brew belt and a column heater hooked up to a temp controller. I'll give it a few days and then dry hop with the 25g Fuggles. Fingers crossed it's good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 If doing it again boil the liquid from the steeping - kills any bugs that may be present - and use that liquid for boiling the hops. Apparently there is better utilisation of the hops in malty liquids Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 If doing it again boil the liquid from the steeping - kills any bugs that may be present - and use that liquid for boiling the hops.Apparently there is better utilisation of the hops in malty liquids Agree with Ben, there are many wilds in your grain and you must boil the liquor to kill these off. It is also good to boil your hops in this liquor, however the reason for this is too take the edge of the bitterness, i.e. reduce the possibility of harsh bitterness. The maximum hop utilistaion is achieved at an SG of 1.00, but as Ben10 says this is not the best practice. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Cool thanks, good tips! I was following the instructions from the owner of my LHBS where I got the hops and grains, but what you're saying makes perfect sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 As the other guys said, boiling your hops in wort is recommended. However you won't have any problems from a 1 minute boil. Steeping hops in water is fine, which is all you really did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelfromoz Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Starting my second home brew but my first "beer" today (My first brew was ginger beer) ,I have opted for the straight Coopers lager and I'm just going to follow the instructions basically ,I have dextrose for the sugar requirement,I live in a rural area so rely on tank water,which I boil for three minutes,it's rain water and I keep my gutters and the tank clean but better not to take any risks,obviously I sterilize everything well first. Wish me luck everyone,I will keep you all informed of the progress. Cheers N'oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Just put down a Morgans Australian Blonde. Apparently (unless I've been misinformed) Morgans have been bought by Coopers, so though I'm trying something new, I'm still keeping loyal to the Coopers co. Simply put down the can of Morgans, along with the LHBS version of BE2 (500mg Malt 250 dex, 250 matltodextrin). Filled it up to 23.5kg, as I'm going to add some dry hops in a couple of days once the Krausen appears, knowing that the dry hops will soak up as much as a litre or so of liquid. I will probably steep the hops in boiling water, chill it, then add it on about day 3. I have Cascade and Centennial dry hops pellets, which have done fine by me so far, so I'm sticking with them until I run out. I also have a batch of Coopers European Lager which has been sitting for 2 weeks; I racked it into a 30 litre water container (the sort you may use camping), and will let it sit in there (having removed the brew from the trub), for another week or so. I know I'll have to bottle it for 3 months, but if I have to wait that long to drink it, it can sit and lager a little while before I bottle it, surely it will only turn out for the better if I show some patience (which is easier now I technically have two FV's, and can brew 2 batches at once). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakus Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hi all a newbie here. I have been brewing since january after getting a kit of the fat man needless to say I am hooked ,, Not having a LHBS I tend to brew basic coopers can and kilo brews from the local supermarket with some extras like dark brown sugar I often use light dry malt as well and so far i have mostly used the os real ale, but by far my first stout was the best I have used the dark ale twice and I like that .. Friday I put together a basic real ale and 1 kg of coopers brew enhancer #2 with 250 grams dark brown sugar this is brew number eleven so far .... I started with 1x 30ltr fermenter then I acquired another then I decided to go LARGE and found 2x 80 litre olive barrels one of those has brew #10 in it consisting of 3x coopers os stout and 3kg coopers brew enhancer #2 1 kg of light dry malt and 1 kg of dark brown sugar filled to 70 liters with an Og of 1055 after 6 days it is down to an sg of 1014.. I am currently drinking my first toucan,brewed with os stout and os dark ale with 1250 gr BE#2, 750G LDM and 250 grams of dark brown sugar .. needless to say that got a little active I ran a tube from the airlock into a jug of water that filled with foam and overflowed into the bath within 24 hours .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chromakey Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I'm in the middle of brewing a quick hoppy red ale with some Centennial and Amarillo. Smells delicious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Just finished 2 brew's, first one is a Real Ale with a 25 gram hop tea and 1.5kg jar of Breiss sparkling lme and Nottingham yeast. The second is a Dr Smurto Golden Ale. Both of these brews I used the kit yeast as nutrient, never do e it before so Im curious about how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Wow, heaps of brews happening which is great to see. Yesterday I brewed a Mangrove Jack's Brewery Box because my LHBS had them on special this month for $32 (sorry Coopers, I still love you). Lord Finster Dark Best Bitter 3.0 kg LME 500 g Dextrose 10 g Burton Union Yeast 50 g hops (Summit & Target, dry hop on day 5, 25 g of each I'm assuming). OG = 10.46 The only thing that wasn't included in the box was the dextrose. I'll let y'all know how it turns out. Cheers & beers, - Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidA22 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Put on a brew last night 1 can Dark Ale 1 can Real Ale 130 Grams of Crystal malt 170 Grams of Choc malt ^steeped just off the boil for about 20mins Strained Brought back up to boil and added 25g of Centenial for 15mins Then fuggles for 5 mins 500g of light dry malt All mixed together and finished with S-05 and the dark ale coopers yeast at approx 19 deg. (made to 24ltrs) OG - 1051 Hope this turns out ok - what do you think?? Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.