PhilboBaggins Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Okay, this is a bit embarrassing. The Northern Brewer was given to me over a year ago by a fellow brewer. It was labelled 6.5%AA. After looking into it at the time, I remember asking the guy, "are you sure???" as all references to NB I could find were much higher. He said that it was given to him by a mate who owns a brewery, and that it should be correct. Well, my first instincts were correct. I reckon it may have been copied wrongly and translated from 9.5 to 6.5. My god it's bitter! The boil is nearly over, and I am not going to add the late hops. I'm going to go ahead and ferment it anyway, and I already have a few ideas about how to save it. By my calculations I have ended up with around 70IBU rather than 50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 That sounds like like a very dry stout, phil! You might have to pour yourself Black & tans with that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 Brew Day!! Ginger Beer 2.0 Kg DME (light) .3Kg Honey Malt (steeped 30mins) 16g Perle (40mins) 12g Amarillo (25mins) 1Kg fresh ginger root (pounded)(20mins) 3 lemons (20mins) Halved, squeezed and boiled. 21Lish US-05 Dry hop I love this one! Beer stocks are low. I put this extract ginger down today with hopes of a 10 gallon brew day tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 That sounds like like a very dry stout' date=' phil[img']w00t[/img]! You might have to pour yourself Black & tans with that one. The way I see it I have several options: 1. Man up and drink the lot as punishment for being a dickhead. 2. Brew a sweet stout alongside, bottle, and blend at drinking time. 3. Brew a sweet stout alongside, blend at bottling time and have 48L of stout. 4. Grab a few cans of dark LME and make it a RIS. 5. Ferment it with Notto and pray that its reputation for stripping bitterness is correct. I tried the sample I saved for a gravity test and it's pretty ridiculous. Never know though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 You probably only need to brew a small extract Sweet stout to blend with it. Maybe 12 Litres? Something easy on the stove top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Right you are. That's a great idea. I reckon Beersmith will be able to help me with the numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I'm with Chad for an easy solution. You could extend that further though. Since you cube your brews before fermenting them, why not make a whole batch of lower IBU'd beer & blend the two prior to fermentation? You love your darks/stouts, so getting through 48 litres of dark beer would be like water off a duck's back for you! Hehe! You're also more than capable of calculating the adjustments required for the second fermented beer to lower overall IBU between the combined beers. Good luck with whatever you decide to do Philbo. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 1. Man up and drink the lot as punishment for being a dickhead. If that is the punishment for being a dickhead then you' date=' and I, will be drinking this type of beer forever [img']innocent[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Making my first Big Island IPA today I've upped it to 23L (because that's what I do) so there's a few adjustments from Chad's original. Here's what I've got: 1.7kg Coopers OS Real Ale 1.5kg amber LME (+1kg from original) 500g light DME (-600g from original) 150g medium (I think) crystal 30g oak chips 25g cascade @30 (+5g from original) 20g nelson @10 10g cascade dry 10g nelson dry 10g amarillo dry 23L (+2L from original) US-05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Hi Ruddy. Making my first Big Island IPA today I've upped it to 23L (because that's what I do) so there's a few adjustments from Chad's original. Here's what I've got: 1.7kg Coopers OS Real Ale 1.5kg amber LME (+1kg from original) 500g light DME (-600g from original) 150g medium (I think) crystal 30g oak chips 25g cascade @30 (+5g from original) 20g nelson @10 10g cascade dry 10g nelson dry 10g amarillo dry 23L (+2L from original) US-05 I'm glad that finally someone else on the forum has decided to brew this recipe. It's a cracking kit based beer! (IMHO) My only concern with your recipe adjustment is the increase in liquid amber malt. The original recipe certainly has a good level of bitterness to cope with this increase' date=' & you upping the total ferment volume from 21 litres to 23 litres may also help leveling that increase out [img']unsure[/img]. On a more positive note, given your liking for the viking beer, I think you're gonna love the impact of the oak chips in this brew. (I hope you bought the American oak chips? ) Good luck with the brew Ruddy! Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 Nice one, KR! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I upped the cascade as well and reduced the light DME. 1 DME ~ 0.8 LME, right? So if I've got +1 LME and -0.6 DME that's about equivalent to +0.2 DME in 2L. Does that make sense? Anyway, I don't think bitterness will be an issue in this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Sorry, I should have been more clear about my concern with the amber malt increase. As it is amber malt (not light malt) it will carry an increased caramelized sweetness into the beer. That may all balance out with the other alterations you've made though. I hope you enjoy the end beer as much as I did/do regardless. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 1. Man up and drink the lot as punishment for being a dickhead. If that is the punishment for being a dickhead then you' date=' and I, will be drinking this type of beer forever [img']innocent[/img] I can think of worse ways to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 As it is amber malt (not light malt) it will carry an increased caramelized sweetness into the beer. That may all balance out with the other alterations you've made though. Yeah' date=' well, I guess I've got no original Big Island IPA to compare it to but oh well, we'll see what happens. Worse case in the situation is probably just not [i']as[/i] bitter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 ... ok, I've added 3g of Magnum to the first addition why not. I'm only doing a 6L boil so it definitely won't hurt. Hooray for having heaps of different hops lying around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelfromoz Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I found out that Craftbrewer has Ahtanum hops that I could use in my attempt to clone the Gage Roads Atomic Pale but I have decided to go with Cascade and Amarillo which I can source easily from my local LHBS,all I have to do now is work out a recipe and do some research about using hops and malt etc.. I will keep you updated about progress. Cheers N'oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Brew Day!! Well today was my first attempt with my new 10 gallon brewery. I must say that other than a couple of minor hitches everything when great. I've got two 20L cubes topped up with a nice APA ready to pitch yeast in a days or so once I've grown some yeast. 10 Gallon Ale 5 Kg Pilsner Malt 3 Kg Pale Ale malt 25g Magnum (60mins) 20g Cascade (0mins) 20g Chinook (0mins) 42L WLP090 San Diego super strain Mashed @ 68C No-chill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Ooooh! A new yeast I see there Skookum. hmm...A fast fermenting WLP001. Beer stocks getting a little low there Chad? Also I get around 21 IBU for the recipe. Obviously my figure is based on chilling the wort. If you don't mind me inquiring, what figure do you obtain by using the "No Chilling" method you currently use? Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Hey Lusty, Yup, the WLP090 is a new yeast strain for me. We will see how it goes. With the No-chill adjustment the IBU's come out at 34.7 (Brew mate). 25.6 IBU's for the Magnum, 2.8 IBU's for the Cascade and 6.2 IBU's for the Chinook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 With the No-chill adjustment the IBU's come out at 34.7 (Brew mate). 25.6 IBU's for the Magnum' date=' 2.8 IBU's for the Cascade and 6.2 IBU's for the Chinook.[/quote']Wow! That is a significant increase! P.S. I'm glad the new 10 gallon system worked relatively smoothly for you. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 With the No-chill adjustment the IBU's come out at 34.7 (Brew mate). 25.6 IBU's for the Magnum' date=' 2.8 IBU's for the Cascade and 6.2 IBU's for the Chinook.[/quote']Wow! That is a significant increase! P.S. I'm glad the new 10 gallon system worked relatively smoothly for you. Cheers, Anthony. Yea, It is quite a jump isn't it. You use a lot less hops per volume of brew which saves you a lot of money in the long run, but you have a lot less control with the late additions. All late additions go in at F-out. This makes a dry hop more important if you're looking for aroma. The 10 Gallon set-up is a smashing success! I will be converting all my favourite recipes to the volume. The extra time to brew a 10 gallon batch over a 5 gallon in really not much at all. Just a little more time waith to bring the larger volume up to temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeCoq/Rooster Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 I'm back. I fell off the earth for a while there. I'm in the throes of brewing Janet's Brown Ale atm. Thought I'd say hi and hit you lot up with a query for a pale ale or bitters with left of ingredients. Trying to brew close to style so your input would be great. Pale Ale - 10L Original Gravity: 1.049 Final Gravity: 1.014 ABV (standard): 4.67% IBU (tinseth): 34.9 SRM (morey): 14.61 Carapils - 100g Crystal 40L - 100g Choc malt - 40g Light DME - 1kg Wheat DME - 200g Hops Schedule 10 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.4, Use: Boil for 90 min, IBU: 19.96 10 g - Ella, Type: Pellet, AA: 16.9, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 12.17 10 g - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 2.77 5 g - Ella, Type: Pellet, AA: 16.9, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days 5 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.4, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days Windsor Ale yeast (I've got Nottingham as well) OR Best Bitter - 9L Original Gravity: 1.042 Final Gravity: 1.012 ABV (standard): 3.94% IBU (tinseth): 35.95 SRM (morey): 14.41 Carapils - 100g Crystal 40L - 100g Choc malt - 40g Light DME - 1kg 10 g - Northern Brewer, Type: Pellet, AA: 7.8, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 17.57 5 g - Pride of Ringwood, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Boil for 45 min, IBU: 10.34 10 g - East Kent Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.26 5 g - Victoria Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 16.1, Use: Boil for 1 min, IBU: 0.78 10 g - East Kent Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.5, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days 5 g - Victoria Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 16.1, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days I've got about 40g each of PoR and EKG; and 20g of Vic Secret; I've also got some centennial and cascade for the brown ale but planned on using them in the IPA to follow the brown ale on the same yeast. Plan on brewing another Roger's clone on the Windsor yeast, hence using it in this brew. Hope you've all been well and had happy brewing/drinking sessions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Hi Rooster. The Pale Ale: The recipe you listed I would view as more Amber Ale-like, than Pale Ale due to the chocolate malt inclusion. Not to say it won't be a tasty beer though. The Best Bitter: No yeast mentioned for this brew, so hard to give an accurate assessment. The POR inclusion (I feel) would work well in Best Bitters due to some of its earthy-like characterstics. Your smallish inclusion here won't create any prominent flavours, but should work well at that bitterness point in the boil. The traditionalists probably won't like your use of the Vic Secret given it's mango like flavours late in the boil, but as I've stated in replies to posts of yours previously, I like your experimental nature (or words to that affect). Good luck with both brews. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeCoq/Rooster Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 The Pale Ale: The recipe you listed I would view as more Amber Ale-like' date=' than Pale Ale due to the chocolate malt inclusion. Not to say it won't be a tasty beer though. [img']wink[/img] . Good point. I did a bit of research and the recipe is essentially a weaker version of a brown ale, more like a mild. I thought I'd treat it a such, although as you mention the hop bill with Vic Secret stretches away from that but I thought it had a bit of an American brown ale element to it. The Best Bitter: No yeast mentioned for this brew' date=' so hard to give an accurate assessment. The POR inclusion (I feel) would work well in Best Bitters due to some of its earthy-like characterstics. Your smallish inclusion here won't create any prominent flavours, but should work well at that bitterness point in the boil.[/quote'] Windsor Ale yeast is my thought. But I have Nottingham as well so could use that for a more neutral yeast. But I wondered if the fruity ester from Windsor would play well with the Vic secret flavour and nose. I also wonder if the EKG would do nothing because of the Vic Secret? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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