What's in Your Fermenter 2023?

[Triple B Brewing]

4 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

I was just being a bit cheeky TBB.  But it is just that.  A large open topped cardboard box with ceramic tiles on the base, blanket over the opening.  Heat belt sits on the tiles.  Fermenter in the box.  See photos.  The ambient winter temperature keeps the fermenting temperature down.  Heat belt makes sure it stays warm enough overnight.  Definitely not very efficient, but does the job.

I also use a temperature controlled freezer and a TC fridge for most of my fermenting.

Your little fridge looks a beauty.

 

HAA HA !! - OK, well thanks @Shamus O'Sean - Necessity eh, the mother of Creativity and Invention - who would have thought - Fantastic - thanks so much for your reply and pics, Shamus that really helps and has inspired me - Cheers ! 

Yep, that little fermentation fridge of mine has been the best ~$200.00 total investment I've spent so far I reckon 

[Triple B Brewing]

14 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Yep ya right again @Shamus O'Sean I have the older model WRM1400WC - importantly, the newer model WRM1400WD is 5 mm bigger in all 3 dimensions

 

[Triple B Brewing]

1 hour ago, Triple B Brewing said:

Hi all,

While I'm by no means a hop scientist , I 100% align with the comments made by @Tone boy re when to add hops and the resulting effects.

While not as comprehensive in the number of types listed, I found this website an easy point of reference for all things Hops and cross referencing the different purposes and uses (you can search and sort the list by clicking on the arrows in the header), give it a whirl ...  https://homebrewacademy.com/hops-chart/

My research in regard to Hops and especially dry hopping has found the following:

• By definition, any hop addition to wort or beer after it has been chilled to fermentation temperatures is considered dry-hopping.
• Since dry-hop additions take place at cool temperatures, beer does not become more bitter from hops added during dry-hopping because alpha acids are never converted.
• Dry hopping can be done during primary fermentation, after fermentation (ie; after no air lock activity for 12-24 hours), or both.
• A “normal” measurement for dry hopping is between 1–2 oz. (28–56 g) of hops for a five-gallon (19-L) batch. But the real answer to the question of how much is simply,  “as much as you want.”  Amounts for a standard 19 Litres (5-gallon batch) vary from about 14gm (half an ounce) for something subtle like a blonde ale to more than 142gm (5 ounces) for hoppy IPAs.
• If you want just a hint of hop aroma you might go as low as a 1/2 oz. (14 g). If you want a beer that will knock you over with a pungent hop flavour and aroma, you might decide to go nuts and throw in 4 oz. (112 grams).
• Some hop varieties commonly used for dry hopping include (but are in no way limited to) Cascade, Crystal, Willamette, East Kent Golding, Fuggle, Saaz, Hallertau and Tettnanger. (refer to Aroma and or All Purpose in the website listed above for this info).
• About 48 hours after adding “dry” hops, the aroma compounds of the hop oils will be fully extracted into the beer.
•  Extraction can happen as quickly as 24 hours! Do not let hops sit in the FV for any more than 48 – 72 hours. If the hops sit for more time in the vessel, more polyphenols and other less pleasant compounds can be absorbed.
• Alpha acids become bitter flavour compounds at high temperatures of 79.44 °C.  So if you add your hops during the boil bitter compounds will be released.
• Higher concentrations of Alpha acids in hops are responsible for contributing more bitterness to the beer, while, Beta Acid concentrations are an indicator of the hops potential for attributing aromatic qualities to the beer. Therefore when dry hopping, as a guideline: for best results, you should dry hop with lower alpha acid hops when possible. (again, refer to the website listed above for this info).
•  Co² bubbling and agitation takes some of the hop aroma out of the beer
• Dry Hopping Techniques

 

My typical and personal approach is to dry hop with palletised hops;

• I add hops when fermentation is an estimated 2 days away from finishing.
• I measure out my desired hop into a dampened muslin bag(s) (big enough to allow for expansion).
• I partially open my fermentation vessel (FV) lid enough to drop the bag of hops in.
• Leave in the FV for no more than 3 days (NOTE: the bag(s) of hops will float on the top of the wort).
• After the 3rd day I partially open my fermentation vessel (FV) lid again enough to remove the dry hop bag(s) and then set the temp to 3 degrees C for a 2 day cold crash (NOTE: my understanding is because there is still a full headspace of Co2 in the FV created from the fermentation process (remembering CO2 is 1½ times heavier than air so a CO2 layer sits on top of the wort), as long as you do not go crazy disturbing the peace in there, no oxidisation will occur. - which has always been my experience).
• After cold crashing for 2 days, I then rack to kegs, set the Co2 keg pressure to 30PSI for the first 2 days, then allow the pressure to reduce by absorption to ~10PSI for the next 5 days, and then on day 7 or 8 I typically proceed to guzzle a cold glass (or five) of the new brew when the hop aroma is at its highest with a very large grin on one's dial - MMMMMM 

Hey all,

Further to my reply to @Tone boy's post on dry-hopping, I meant to include a link to this Hop Comparison Wizard which I find really helpful. 

Here's also a link to a similar site for yeast comparisons Yeast Comparison Wizard 

Helpful when you can't get your hands on what you had planned on due to stock shortfalls, or just trying to make the best out of useful left overs 

[Kegory]

Hot Robust Stout

A disconcerting temperature variation in different parts of the steep

Added a litre of water to the boil for better control

State of the art filtration system at The O'Connorwery

Estimated maximum OG: 1.05968

Measured OG: 1.049; 1.057

Calculated OG: 1.054; 1.053

[Red devil 44]

Just about to throw a FWK down.

‘This is a new one apparently, Riptide Summer Ale.

‘I will ferment at 19 degrees with the trusty US-05 in my SS Fermenter. 

[Coopers DIY Beer Team]

On 8/28/2023 at 9:19 PM, Triple B Brewing said:

Since dry-hop additions take place at cool temperatures, beer does not become more bitter from hops added during dry-hopping because alpha acids are never converted.

Unless the beer is below 25IBU, then dry hopping can increase perceived bitterness due to the presence of humulinones, oxidized alpha acids, that are much more soluble at lower temperatures than the alpha acids they derive from. It gets even more interesting with high IBU beers, where the leafy material in the hops can absorb alpha acids, reducing the final bitterness of the beer.   Cheers, Frank.

[Otto Von Blotto]

Red ale in yesterday, krausen there today. Should be ready to keg in a fortnight or so

[jennyss]

2 hours ago, Red devil 44 said:

Riptide Summer Ale

@Red devil 44. That is a funny picture of the shark with a turtle floaty ring on your fresh work kit!

[Red devil 44]

39 minutes ago, jennyss said:

@Red devil 44. That is a funny picture of the shark with a turtle floaty ring on your fresh work kit!

Hi @jennyss, yeah not sure the story behind that picture.

‘My LHBS doesn’t have a great range so just grabbed what I could as I don’t have time to brew an AG this R&R. 

[Triple B Brewing]

2 hours ago, Coopers DIY Beer Team said:

Unless the beer is below 25IBU, then dry hopping can increase perceived bitterness due to the presence of humulinones, oxidized alpha acids, that are much more soluble at lower temperatures than the alpha acids they derive from. It gets even more interesting with high IBU beers, where the leafy material in the hops can absorb alpha acids, reducing the final bitterness of the beer.   Cheers, Frank.

WOW Frank, you are blowing my mind right now. So much to try and learn.

Thanks for your reply ...

[Pale Man]

9 hours ago, Kegory said:

Hot Robust Stout

A disconcerting temperature variation in different parts of the steep

Added a litre of water to the boil for better control

State of the art filtration system at The O'Connorwery

Estimated maximum OG: 1.05968

Measured OG: 1.049; 1.057

Calculated OG: 1.054; 1.053

I wouldn't get too carried away with a temperature difference steeping dark malts. Its a steep for flavour. You can cold steep dark malts. Try not to overthink your brewing, it will be much more enjoyable.

[Kegory]

2 hours ago, Pale Man said:

I wouldn't get too carried away with a temperature difference steeping dark malts. Its a steep for flavour. You can cold steep dark malts. Try not to overthink your brewing, it will be much more enjoyable.

The next one in that fermenter will be the same recipe but this time with a cold steep.

[Shamus O'Sean]

Gee my Cherry Sour is barely creeping along.  Brewed and pitched yeast on Saturday August 26.  Nothing as at Monday 9pm.  I was not too worried, as the last time I used this yeast, it was stagnant for the first 2-3 days.  Then dropping about 1 point per day.  Admittedly, I did use Philly Sour yeast that was best before May 2023.  However, plenty of people said it would still be fine.  I was worried, so I went and bought a couple of fresh packets of Philly Sour (Thank you Keg King).  I was going to pitch the fresh yeast.  However, I held off because the SG was still dropping ever so slowly and still is.  SG of 1.023 at the moment.

[Kegory]

10 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Gee my Cherry Sour is barely creeping along.  Brewed and pitched yeast on Saturday August 26.  Nothing as at Monday 9pm.  I was not too worried, as the last time I used this yeast, it was stagnant for the first 2-3 days.  Then dropping about 1 point per day.  Admittedly, I did use Philly Sour yeast that was best before May 2023.  However, plenty of people said it would still be fine.  I was worried, so I went and bought a couple of fresh packets of Philly Sour (Thank you Keg King).  I was going to pitch the fresh yeast.  However, I held off because the SG was still dropping ever so slowly and still is.  SG of 1.023 at the moment.

Is that with a Rapt Pill Shamus or are you testing a sample?

[Goldcoast Crow]

So I've just dropped yesterday evening a Thomas coopers IPA with a 1kg bag of light dry malt powder.... Made up to 23lt to get the desired abv... Was at 24c when I went to bed last night... When I woke to check it the Gravity gad not moved and there was no sign of krous or life in general... Could this be dead yeast or was the light dry malt the wrong fermentable?? 

Any help would be great here... 

[Classic Brewing Co]

2 minutes ago, Goldcoast Crow said:

So I've just dropped yesterday evening a Thomas coopers IPA with a 1kg bag of light dry malt powder.... Made up to 23lt to get the desired abv... Was at 24c when I went to bed last night... When I woke to check it the Gravity gad not moved and there was no sign of krous or life in general... Could this be dead yeast or was the light dry malt the wrong fermentable?? 

Any help would be great here... 

Give it a bit more time, it should kick in.

The malt is OK.

[Shamus O'Sean]

11 hours ago, Kegory said:

Is that with a Rapt Pill Shamus or are you testing a sample?

This brew has an iSpindel in it.  I have 2 of them and a Rapt Pill.

I also took a hydrometer sample, which I left beside the fermenters, and took a reading each day.  The sample tube is a mini fermenter, with the same mix in it as the main fermenter.  So I figure its specific gravity matches the fermenter pretty well.  This usually proves to be the case.

[Kegory]

1 hour ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

This brew has an iSpindel in it.  I have 2 of them and a Rapt Pill.

I also took a hydrometer sample, which I left beside the fermenters, and took a reading each day.  The sample tube is a mini fermenter, with the same mix in it as the main fermenter.  So I figure its specific gravity matches the fermenter pretty well.  This usually proves to be the case.

It would be interesting to see the graph of that one.

[Kegory]

7 hours ago, Goldcoast Crow said:

So I've just dropped yesterday evening a Thomas coopers IPA with a 1kg bag of light dry malt powder.... Made up to 23lt to get the desired abv... Was at 24c when I went to bed last night... When I woke to check it the Gravity gad not moved and there was no sign of krous or life in general... Could this be dead yeast or was the light dry malt the wrong fermentable?? 

Any help would be great here... 

I wouldn't worry too much yet. I don't check the gravity until late in the second week, excluding OG.

What was the overnight temperature?

[Goldcoast Crow]

9 hours ago, Kegory said:

I wouldn't worry too much yet. I don't check the gravity until late in the second week, excluding OG.

What was the overnight temperature?

It did drop to mid teens so it may take a day or so to kick in, I've rugged up the fermenter which I forgot to do so hopefully she will kick in

[Classic Brewing Co]

58 minutes ago, Goldcoast Crow said:

It did drop to mid teens so it may take a day or so to kick in, I've rugged up the fermenter which I forgot to do so hopefully she will kick in

You should start noticing bubbles & condensation inside the Fermenter soon, the most important thing to worry about is maintaining a fairly constant temperature.

Too many fluctuations may cause problems but keep an eye on it & it should be right, send us some photos.

[Shamus O'Sean]

20 hours ago, Kegory said:

It would be interesting to see the graph of that one.

Hey Kegory

Below is a screenshot of the graph of my Cherry Sour from Brewfather. 

• Red line is manual SG readings
• Black line is iSpindel SG readings
• Dark blue line is manual temperature readings
• Pale blue line is iSpindel temperature readings
• Green line is battery level from iSpindel

No movement for the first 3 days.  Then it started to drop, but I could not tell if it was really dropping because there were no real signs in the fermenter (no condensation, no Krausen).  I upped the temperature from 18°C to 20°C late on day 3 and late on day 5 from 20°C to 23°C.   Plus on day 5, I gave the brew a good stir to re-suspend the yeast.

The manual reading seems to be starting to level off tonight, but the iSpindel in the fermenter is still dropping.  Airlock is still bubbling at about 1 bubble per second.

[Kegory]

Thanks @Shamus O'Sean, that's very interesting.

[kmar92]

1 hour ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Hey Kegory

Below is a screenshot of the graph of my Cherry Sour from Brewfather. 

• Red line is manual SG readings
• Black line is iSpindel SG readings
• Dark blue line is manual temperature readings
• Pale blue line is iSpindel temperature readings
• Green line is battery level from iSpindel

No movement for the first 3 days.  Then it started to drop, but I could not tell if it was really dropping because there were no real signs in the fermenter (no condensation, no Krausen).  I upped the temperature from 18°C to 20°C late on day 3 and late on day 5 from 20°C to 23°C.   Plus on day 5, I gave the brew a good stir to re-suspend the yeast.

The manual reading seems to be starting to level off tonight, but the iSpindel in the fermenter is still dropping.  Airlock is still bubbling at about 1 bubble per second.

Love your work @Shamus O'Sean

[Goldcoast Crow]

On 9/3/2023 at 10:07 AM, Classic Brewing Co said:

You should start noticing bubbles & condensation inside the Fermenter soon, the most important thing to worry about is maintaining a fairly constant temperature.

Too many fluctuations may cause problems but keep an eye on it & it should be right, send us some photos.

OG hasn't moved a bit, but sends to be a few more bubbles, myths a bit slower than normal, could I possibly make a warm sugar syrup to kick it along?