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Brew Day!! Watcha' got, eh!? 2015


Canadian Eh!L

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Oh and while I get the misdirected Mr 6G7-powered Mitsubishi' date=' my Magnaman has nothing to do said car company and is from early Japano/American anime "Gigantor" (mid 1960's) and is an nemesis, "Magnaman from Outer Space" etc, some 20 years prior to the car owner relationship. [img']lol[/img]

Oh haha I learn something new every day!

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After bottling my Cerveza yesterday I had an empty FV which would be a waste so I decided to try the Australian Pale Ale kit from Coopers. Together with Brew Enhancer 2. Using the yeast that comes with the kit.

 

Put it in earlier today and now in the evening I can see the airlock is starting to show activity. I had an OG of 1040, don't know if that is where it should be but sounds normal to me - anybody knows? So I will see how goes and let you know.

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After bottling my Cerveza yesterday I had an empty FV which would be a waste so I decided to try the Australian Pale Ale kit from Coopers. Together with Brew Enhancer 2. Using the yeast that comes with the kit.

 

Put it in earlier today and now in the evening I can see the airlock is starting to show activity. I had an OG of 1040' date=' don't know if that is where it should be but sounds normal to me - anybody knows? So I will see how goes and let you know.[/quote']

 

G'day newbrew, OG of 1040 is approximately right going on the APA plus Coopers BE 2 made to 23 litres. wink

 

Cheers.

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I am planning on brewing this one next weekend some time. I have a recipe that will result in an 8.5% ABV beer but I am a bit soft and don't want a full batch of beer that strong. So I have scaled it all back to around 6.5%. Hopefully everything remains in balance.

 

Coffee & Fig Oatmeal Stout

 

3.4kg Marris Otter

800g Vienna Malt

600g Malted Oats

400g Melanoidin Malt

320g Chocolate Malt

240g Pale Chocolate Malt

160g Caraamber

160g Caraaroma

120g Black Malt

120g Roasted Barley

 

400g Figs

200g Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Coffee

80g toasted shredded coconut

 

15g Citra @ 60 minutes

40g Cascade @ Whirlpool

20g Cascade - hop steep and added during fermentation

 

23 litres

Yeast - 2 x Nottingham yeast

Mash - single infusion @ 64 degrees

 

OG - 1063

IBU - 31

 

The coffee will be cold steeped for a couple of days and the liquid added to the boil @ 10 minutes.

 

The figs will be caramelised in some wort and added back to the boil in a bag for 15 minutes.

 

The coconut will be toasted and added during primary fermentation.

 

I'm not sure how this will turn out but it should be interesting regardless.

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I'm doing a brew day on Good Friday, and I'll be brewing my first attempt at a Bohemian Pilsner style, as this is one I do enjoy drinking.

 

I created this recipe on Beersmith basically just trying to get all the style guide indicators around the middle of the range.

 

25 litres into the fermenter

 

BIAB Pilsner Step Mash

Grains

4.75 kg Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 1 90.4 %

500g Munich Malt - 10L (23.0 EBC) Grain 2 9.5 %

5g Black (Patent) Malt (1300.0 EBC) Grain 3 0.1 %

90 min boil

Hops

30.00 g Magnum [12.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 35.0 IBUs

50.00 g Saaz [3.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 5.5 IBUs

 

Yeast

Wyeast 2001 Urquell Lager

 

Est Original Gravity: 1.049 SG

Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG

Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 % (5.1% bottled)

Bitterness: 40.5 IBUs

Est Color: 9.5 EBC

 

I will be trying a step mash for the first time on this one, whether it's necessary or not I don't really know, but just something to try out especially now that I have a false bottom for my urn which makes things like that a lot easier. In Beersmith using the "BIAB Pilsner Step Mash" option, it turns out like this:

 

Acid rest at 35C for 5 mins

Protein rest: heat to 52C and hold for 15 mins

Saccharification 1: heat to 63C and hold for 45 mins

Saccharification 2: heat to 72C and hold for 30 mins

Mash out at 78C for 10 mins

 

 

I know these styles are usually made with only Saaz hops, but unfortunately I only have the 50g and it's not enough for the bitterness required. I have ordered another 900g from Yakima Valley, and if they do arrive before Friday, I'll change the recipe to suit.

 

Another new thing I'm trying on this one is the Brulosopher's quick lager method. Basically I'll give it 5-8 days in primary at ferment temp of 11.5, then raise it up to 16 for a D-rest until fermentation is complete. After that I'll drop it down to zero for a week or two before bottling. All up it should go from cube to bottle in about 3-4 weeks, instead of the traditional drawn out 8-9 weeks.

 

Looking forward to it! biggrin

 

 

 

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I did a step mash on my last beer; a Smash beer with Marris Otter and Citra. The comments I have received so far is about how the maltiness has come through.

 

I think it would be worthwhile doing with a Pilsner if you could. Good luck with it.

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My last brew up is going well, Marilyn's Secrect. Tried Thursday night, after six days in the FV, to take a sample to test the FG. It was still bubbling away like one of these fizzy headache pills, think it was at 1020. Took a sample today, 1011, still bubbling away, ok not as wild as the Thursday test. I think I'll give it a day or two more before I dry hop it. Can't tell the taste yet, too yeasty, though very fruity smell.

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I will be trying a step mash for the first time on this one' date='

[/quote']

 

Do you recirculate?

Where do you measure the temp from?

How are you going to be certain the whole mash is at the correct temp?

 

I also BIAB in a Crown Urn and have considered this.

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I don't recirculate, I haven't looked into it but seems like it would be a bit of a mission with BIAB, or at least something that I don't feel as though I need to really bother with.

 

I'll just use the urn to heat it up, stirring it during heating to try to get an even temp through it.

 

I usually just measure it from the wort, as I don't have a thermometer probe long enough to get to the grains. It's probably not exact but I haven't had any problems doing this on any previous batches, so I guess it can't be too far out. My beers usually end up with an FG of pretty much bang on what Beersmith predicts.

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Great looking recipe Hairy. Lots of complexity. cool

 

You sound like you may have brewed this before? unsure

...200g Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Coffee...

You might want to sub in some Carafa (or Blend 43 biggrin)' date=' as I hear this stuff comes across a bit 'thin'. [img']tongue[/img]

 

Good luck with the brew, it sounds like a real rippa!

 

Cheers,

 

Lusty.

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Hey Brew Dudes

 

Here I am about to make a Dry Stout, timing should be OK for a July tipple. Especially if I'm feeling a long way from home wink

 

Black Night

 

BeerSmith says

OG = 1.050

IBU = 41

EBC = 77

ABV= 5.1% (bottled)

 

Most specs are on the high side for a Dry Stout, and if I get a greater efficiency (which I'm tipping given its a Stout) then the ABV could be around 5.4%.

 

Cheers & Beers

Scottie

Valley Brew

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Black Night is down

Final numbers

OG = 1.045 (lower efficiency than I normally get, go figure)

IBU = 42 (Magnum a little higher Alpha)

EBC = Black as the Ace of Spades

 

Windsor rehydrated and pitched into 20 litres at 24 degrees.

 

Looking to bottle 25 or 26 long necks in 14 days time.

 

Cheers & Beers

Scottie

Valley Brew

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G'day guys,

 

Yesterday I put down an ESB I was going to do an extract brew though ended up using the Coopers English Bitter can.

 

EB can

1.5kg LDM

180g Carared

120g Caramalt

25g Fuggles @ 10 min

25g East Kent Goldings @ 10 min

And Burton ale yeast wlp023 as harvested from Antiphile's crotch and between he's toes.

 

Oh and I did a Mangrove Jacks Apple Cider on Sunday.

 

Cheers

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...200g Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Coffee...

That's a beautiful coffee by the way, one of my favourites. I like it in a plunger or an Aeropress without milk. Wouldn't be my choice of coffee for a stout actually (would go for an Indonesian, Brazilian or PNG maybe - something rich and full-bodied) but I'm very interested to hear how it turns out! But then if blending with citrus-ey hops, it might go better than those I was thinking of.

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Had a good brew session yesterday evening and my ESB is safely in the cube. Recipe was as follows ...

 

Stats

Batch size: 10.5 litres

Mash: Single infusion BIAB @67C

OG: 1.050

Bitterness: 35 IBU

Colour: 19 EBC

 

Grain

2kg Simpsons Golden Promise malt

250g JWM Wheat malt

200g Simpsons Medium Crystal malt

 

Hops

15g Fuggles @FWH

15g EKG @5mins

15g Styrian Goldings @cube

 

Yeast: Harvested WLP006 Bedford British

 

The cube's down to 21C now so I think I will be ready to pitch in the morning with a few days of mild weather ahead. Only hiccup with this brew day was forgetting to use a hop bag for the bittering addition. This gave me grief with a blocking auto-siphon (I use the S/S auto-siphon tip from Gryphon Brewing + silicon hose). I won't make the mistake of not using a hop bag again!

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Brew day today! I have a couple of mates coming over through the day too to check it out.

 

I'm brewing up my Bohemian Pilsner recipe today.

 

25 litres into the fermenter

 

BIAB Pilsner Step Mash

Grains

4.75 kg Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 1 90.4 %

500g Munich Malt - 10L (23.0 EBC) Grain 2 9.5 %

5g Black (Patent) Malt (1300.0 EBC) Grain 3 0.1 %

 

90 min boil

Hops

30.00 g Magnum - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 35.0 IBUs

50.00 g Saaz - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 5.5 IBUs

 

Yeast

Wyeast 2001 Urquell Lager

 

Est Original Gravity: 1.049 SG

Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG

Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 % (5.1% bottled)

Bitterness: 40.5 IBUs

Est Color: 9.5 EBC

 

A couple of notes: I don't have enough Saaz (waiting on an order to arrive), so had to use Magnum for bittering this one. And the 5g Black Patent is only there for color adjustment. It seems an odd malt to use in a pils I know, but I wanted to be able to affect the color using a tiny amount of malt to not influence the flavor.

 

Almost time to start milling the grains now, starting this one earlier than usual because of the step mash. I've calculated that this will nearly double the time of my usual mash, which is 90 mins. Looking forward to trying it out though!

 

I have created another Pils recipe using only Saaz hops, which I will use for my experiments on brewing water. I'll brew that recipe twice, only difference being one with un modified tap water, the other with 100% distilled water, with mineral salts added back in to replicate Pilsen's water profile. Looking forward to those too!

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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Cheers mate!

 

So far not going too badly, I've over shot the temps a tad. I find stirring the mash seems to even out the temp a bit more, with the probe being up near the top of the liquid. I reckon the false bottom and the grains are restricting the heat from dispersing through entirely, hence the stirring. But it's all learning and I'll know for next time. I had to change the malt bill because I only had 4.16kg of Pils malt, so I upped the Munich to 1kg and dropped the Black Patent altogether. The mash looks a funny milky color when I stir it at the moment, perhaps due to the low temps. Almost ready to heat up to 60 for the first sacc rest now. happy

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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I have to agree about step mashing taking considerably longer, but it's quite fun, especially if you have some mates over and a few beers. Just remember to make sure you use the mash and boil timers when friends and beer are there 'cos it's really easy to forget about the next step!

 

For some step mashes, I've been testing a hybrid method that works pretty well involving a type of a decoction method combined with hotter water additions. Starting with the initial sac rest, the water grain ratio is only about 2.2:1. This usually leaves tons of room for a boiling water addition to bring the temp up to the next step without getting close to a 3:1 ratio (but if I'm worried then some of the mash is run off to a pot and heated to the next step temp as well then returned). This follows through all of the steps, and as the number of step temps increases, the more of the "modified decoction" liquid is needed (but I refuse to let it get heated too far past the actual target temp for the steps at this stage). Obviously if you have plenty of water to grain ratio you can use that too with boiling water. So far, this has worked a real treat.

 

When you try the water treatment test, do the one with additions using only distilled water rather than a diluted water base. Then you'll be able to really tell what effect the minerals have. (If needed, Aldi bottled water is pretty cheap).

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