What's in Your Fermenter? 2020

[Otto Von Blotto]

Why would it be less without an airlock? There's no pressure in the fermenter regardless of an airlock being there or not, thus nothing to keep more CO2 in the beer other than whatever the temperature is. It's based on the highest temperature it reached post fermentation and nothing else.

I did heaps of bottles as well and I never really had this foaming issue either, but suggesting that there isn't any CO2 left in it is wrong. Agree about the yeast not waking up, or at least not starting to ferment the instant more sugar is put in. 

3 hours ago, UncleStavvy said:

Coopers pale ale tin, 1.5kg DME(should have been 750g), 200g white sugar, coopers comm yeast.OG was 1.042

I think your hydrometer might be telling porkies. I can't see a brew with those ingredients getting that low, and assuming it's a 23 litre batch the OG would have been more up around 1.050. If the error is constant, it suggests the FG is actually 1.010, which sounds more likely for that brew.

[UncleStavvy]

12 hours ago, Titan said:

Cold crash would surely promote the release of co2 unless the bottles being filled were at the same temperature as the beer?

You dont gain anymore co2 when ferment is already complete. So when ferment finished and you then cold crash it does not add any more co2 into solution.

An ale fermented at normal ambient pressure at 20c will give 0.85 volumes of risidual co2 the higher that temperature goes the less co2 is left in solution. This number is based on a sealed fv with an airlock. Any leaks in the fv other than the airlock then residual co2 volumes will be a lot less if any at all. 

In my time i have bottled well over a thousand long necks always with the carb drops added first and never had an issue. What is being described in the posts above is like an Alka-Seltzer effect. Thats my reason for the prompt to check the bottling process i.e. are they using bottling wands, is the valve on the fv fully open and if bottling warm beer is it actually finished. Dormant yeast does not suddenly spring back into life when it comes in contact with fresh sugar. That why we leave it in the bottle for a week.

Well I was all keen to bottle this arvo but I'm going to do another check with a proper glass hydrometer. If its still at 1.012 tonight I'll chill the FV overnight and bottle tomorrow. Let you know how it goes PS yes to bottling wand, valve should be fully open(coopers kit valve)

[MitchBastard]

I bottled a single bottle of my wild yeast experiment today. Last week I Pitched some harvested wild yeast Into some left over wort.  Went nuts for a few days and dropped crystal clear. 
 

smells like a saison. 
 

to be continued....

[Otto Von Blotto]

1 hour ago, UncleStavvy said:

Well I was all keen to bottle this arvo but I'm going to do another check with a proper glass hydrometer. If its still at 1.012 tonight I'll chill the FV overnight and bottle tomorrow. Let you know how it goes PS yes to bottling wand, valve should be fully open(coopers kit valve)

If you're only chilling it overnight I wouldn't bother. The benefits of cold crashing take a few days to occur. It'd likely take overnight just to get down. 

[Journeyman]

7 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

If you're only chilling it overnight I wouldn't bother. The benefits of cold crashing take a few days to occur. It'd likely take overnight just to get down. 

My ferment fridge seemed sluggish to go below about 5° - it would get there but it can drop from 19 to 5 in less time than 5 to 2. I was doing some clean up and getting ready for dry hops a couple of days back and noticed the rubber seal at bottom corner was squashed - there was a significant gap about 20 cm long. So I taped soe foam rubber in the gap and this time the drop to CC temps was much faster.

Forgot basic rule - ALWAYS check the basics.

[Otto Von Blotto]

Just now, Journeyman said:

My ferment fridge seemed sluggish to go below about 5° - it would get there but it can drop from 19 to 5 in less time than 5 to 2. I was doing some clean up and getting ready for dry hops a couple of days back and noticed the rubber seal at bottom corner was squashed - there was a significant gap about 20 cm long. So I taped soe foam rubber in the gap and this time the drop to CC temps was much faster.

Forgot basic rule - ALWAYS check the basics.

Yeah that sort of thing will do it. Mine is pretty quick, however when it gets close to zero it takes longer initially because the beer is still warmer, which inhibits the temp drop somewhat. The air also warms up quicker. As the beer chills further it reaches zero quicker and warms up more slowly.

When I leave the temp probe in place on the fermenter it always drops the first 10-12 degrees pretty quickly, then gradually gets slower as it gets colder. This is perfectly normal though, the closer to the fridge temp the beer gets, the slower it will drop. 

I replaced the seals on that fridge a few years ago, the old ones were the originals from the late 50s or whenever it was built, and they were rock hard. Only repairs it's ever needed. 

[Journeyman]

5 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I replaced the seals on that fridge a few years ago, the old ones were the originals from the late 50s or whenever it was built, and they were rock hard. Only repairs it's ever needed. 

Did you get seals specific for the fridge or are there generic ones and you cut to size?

[Otto Von Blotto]

11 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

Did you get seals specific for the fridge or are there generic ones and you cut to size?

Just generic ones cut to size. Had a fridge guy come and measure it all up and come back with the seals afterwards. I got DIY ones, wasn't hard to replace them. Be pretty difficult getting specific parts for a fridge that old I'd reckon.

[Otto Von Blotto]

Just checked the SG on my whatever ale it is, pitched yeast 3 days ago and it's down from 1.045 to about 1.016/17, so I have raised the controller up to 21.5. It'll probably hit FG tomorrow which will be 4 days total. That being the case I can probably start cold crashing it on Friday, as that will be another 3 days of cleanup, and keg it the following weekend. This stuff is a beast, it's not the first batch I've had ferment out in under 5 days with 1469. 

[Journeyman]

19 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Be pretty difficult getting specific parts for a fridge that old I'd reckon

I found several sites that offer seals for large ranges of specific fridge models. Cost for my Kelvinator 375 seems to be between $70 -$85 with postage. Any memory of what it cost to get the guy out and provide the seals?

Edited April 27, 2020 by Journeyman

[UncleStavvy]

Well the Extra Smooth Bitter has stabilised at 1.012 but I've made the call to leave it the full 10 days in the FV. I just inherited a bunch of pickaxe bottles so I'll be giving them a wash up today, sanitise and drain over nite ready to bottle the bitter in the morning.

[Otto Von Blotto]

1 hour ago, Journeyman said:

I found several sites that offer seals for large ranges of specific fridge models. Cost for my Kelvinator 375 seems to be between $70 -$85 with postage. Any memory of what it cost to get the guy out and provide the seals?

I think it was about $90 or so. Mine's that old I don't even know what the model is, all I know is that it's a Frigidaire. There might be a model number on the back but I haven't really looked, and probably won't now as I'd rather not move it again if I don't have to. It's heavy as hell. 

[Journeyman]

4 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I think it was about $90 or so. Mine's that old I don't even know what the model is, all I know is that it's a Frigidaire. There might be a model number on the back but I haven't really looked, and probably won't now as I'd rather not move it again if I don't have to. It's heavy as hell. 

From my searches yesterday, almost all fridges have the info inside the fridge somewhere. FYI.

[Otto Von Blotto]

1 minute ago, Journeyman said:

From my searches yesterday, almost all fridges have the info inside the fridge somewhere. FYI.

Well, things have probably changed over the past 50-60 years too. I haven't noticed any info inside the fridge itself, the modern one beside it I think does though.

[Lab Cat]

The HBS looked like a synagogue at Christmas, due to east coast supplies getting sparse. Had to get a brew on quick as I had a feeling of dread for the Smooth Bitter, which has been found to be dreadful. The sink may enjoy it more.

I could only get MJ wheat beer and cooper wheat malt. They didn't have any appropriate hops either. I did steep the zest of a couple of lemons in yesterday, even though the brew is just about done. Seems to have added a subtle freshness.

[UncleStavvy]

Well, that's the Extra Smooth Bitter done and dusted. No issues with foaming after adding carbo drops this time. I did cool it down to 15° overnight just for bit of insurance but who knows what happened with the previous dark ale bottling.

On the down side, I'm stopping brewing for a week or so while the Bitter is carbonating in the brew fridge. I've put the shelves back in and spaced the bottles out. The heat belt is laid out on the metal shelf the FV normally sits on with the Inkbird set at 20°. I've no clue how effective this will be but surely a week at a constant 20° would have to be a good thing with the weather here in Adelaide getting colder rapidly?

[iBooz2]

Put down a batch of Neon Haze Session IPA (ROTM) yesterday, the first of two I am going to do.

Interesting on the 11 g lallemand American East Coast yeast pack provided is says pitching rate is 1g/L so am thinking that for 22 litres it would have need two packs of yeast.  Edit: Sorry have no prior experience with this yeast.

Some Coopers recipes state use the kit yeast pack as well as the specialty yeast recommended which I was expecting with this one but does not appear to be the case.

This Neon Haze recipe says only the one pack of AEC yeast.  Has anyone laid this recipe down and how did it go with just the one pack of yeast?

Cheers - AL

Edited April 28, 2020 by iBooz2

[Lab Cat]

1 hour ago, UncleStavvy said:

Well, that's the Extra Smooth Bitter done and dusted. No issues with foaming after adding carbo drops this time. I did cool it down to 15° overnight just for bit of insurance but who knows what happened with the previous dark ale bottling.

What Molasses did you put in this? I just finished carbing this and most of it is probably going down the sink, The PET bottles can store for a few months to see if it becomes drinkable. Tastes awful. I used blackstrap molasses which is all I could get, which is far too strong. Thought it added sweetness, but it doesn't, it adds a metallic and noticeably rusty flavour.

Edited April 28, 2020 by Lab Cat

[Journeyman]

1 hour ago, UncleStavvy said:

Well, that's the Extra Smooth Bitter done and dusted. No issues with foaming after adding carbo drops this time. I did cool it down to 15° overnight just for bit of insurance but who knows what happened with the previous dark ale bottling.

On the down side, I'm stopping brewing for a week or so while the Bitter is carbonating in the brew fridge. I've put the shelves back in and spaced the bottles out. The heat belt is laid out on the metal shelf the FV normally sits on with the Inkbird set at 20°. I've no clue how effective this will be but surely a week at a constant 20° would have to be a good thing with the weather here in Adelaide getting colder rapidly?

You know you can brew at 20° right?

[iBooz2]

6 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

You know you can brew at 20° right?

I am guessing room is the issue for @UncleStavvy not temp Mark.

Cheers - AL

[UncleStavvy]

42 minutes ago, Lab Cat said:

What Molasses did you put in this? I just finished carbing this and most of it is probably going down the sink, The PET bottles can store for a few months to see if it becomes drinkable. Tastes awful. I used blackstrap molasses which is all I could get, which is far too strong. Thought it added sweetness, but it doesn't, it adds a metallic and noticeably rusty flavour.

Blue label black strap molasses from Coles I think. Didnt harvest the trub because it had chunky bits of stuff in it I didnt like the look of. Brewed this one for the eldest lad so not my problem if its rough

[UncleStavvy]

39 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

You know you can brew at 20° right?

Ive had dark ale bottles in the fridge the whole time the bitter's been on. Can only fit a doz laid down. And dont poke the bear @Journeyman, I dumped two perfectly good fridges a couple of years ago....not effin happy now Jan

[Lab Cat]

5 minutes ago, UncleStavvy said:

Blue label black strap molasses from Coles I think. Didnt harvest the trub because it had chunky bits of stuff in it I didnt like the look of. Brewed this one for the eldest lad so not my problem if its rough

I read a few descriptions of Molasses before using, and so wasn't worried. It's supposed to add a bittersweet taste, and I thought with a Bitter that would go alright. But it's bloody awful. Won't go near it again.

[UncleStavvy]

Just now, Lab Cat said:

I read a few descriptions of Molasses before using, and so wasn't worried. It's supposed to add a bittersweet taste, and I thought with a Bitter that would go alright. But it's bloody awful. Won't go near it again.

I chilled the last SG sample and gave it a taste, thought it was nice enough, al least not offensive. Then again I'm one of those people that don't like big hopped IPA's or "craft" ales either. I hope its at least drinkable as its tying up 30 of my glass bottles. Let you know in a month

[Norris!]

3 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

Put down a batch of Neon Haze Session IPA (ROTM) yesterday, the first of two I am going to do.

Interesting on the 11 g lallemand American East Coast yeast pack provided is says pitching rate is 1g/L so am thinking that for 22 litres it would have need two packs of yeast.  Edit: Sorry have no prior experience with this yeast.

Some Coopers recipes state use the kit yeast pack as well as the specialty yeast recommended which I was expecting with this one but does not appear to be the case.

This Neon Haze recipe says only the one pack of AEC yeast.  Has anyone laid this recipe down and how did it go with just the one pack of yeast?

Cheers - AL

They probably suggested or gave 1 packet because the esters this yeast will produce will compliment the brew, by underpitching.

I have used the yeast before and only used one pack on a 21l batch. It tasted good with nice esters that were not overpowering. I did repitch the slurry in another batch that was cleaner but I wouldn't say better just different.