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Brew Day!! Watcha' got, eh!? 2016


Canadian Eh!L

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Yeah I was wondering about dropping the IBUs back a bit, but given half of them are from a FWH addition which is supposed to result in smoother bitterness, with a hop known for smooth bittering, and then the rest from 10 minute and flameout additions, it shouldn't be over the top once in the glass despite the high-ish IBU figure.

 

I'll just brew it as I've constructed it this time, I can always adjust it in future and I'd rather it be too bitter first up than too sweet - at least bitterness fades and mellows in time. Sweetness just hangs around, and I don't like sweet beers very much either biggrin

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Sweetness just hangs around' date=' and I don't like sweet beers very much either [/quote']

 

Me neither. My Amber Ale was cloying, but thankfully had around 36 IBUs to offset it somewhat. Overdid the crystal malts on that one.

 

But, this Citra SMASH isn't sweet and definitely not malt forward. It's light, clean and fruity. Looking through the BJCP styles it's probably closer to an American blonde ale, but without the maltiness/sweetness. SRM = 4. I'm finding I'm getting about 78% attenuation from my US-05, so that might have something to do with it. Dunno. First crack at a SMASH and I'm pretty happy with the result, but still need to get it into the bottle. Love the Citra though. Flavour and aroma is brilliant.

 

 

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Knocked this one up last night, my first Imperial IPA. My OG hit 1.090, but I had to pitch in 700g of LDME to get it there, I was at the limits of my mashing system, even for 20 litres out.

 

This bad boy uses 450g of hops in 20 litres. I didn't have any columbus so used Magnum for 60 min and Chinook for the 30 min. This stuff from 'Avery Brewing' sells for almost $30/330ml I believe.

 

 

The Maharaja Imperial IPA

For 20 Litres Fermenting Vessel

OG: 1.090

AE: 1.012

 

Grist:

Pale 2-Row – 93.8%

Victory Malt – 3.1%

C-120 – 3.1%

 

Hops:

60 min – Columbus (13.9% AA) – 1.09 oz

30 min – Columbus (13.9% AA) – 1.09 oz

0 min – Centennial (13.9% AA) – 2.18 oz

0 min – Simcoe (11.4% AA) – 2.18 oz

Dry-Hop – Simcoe – 4.38 oz

Dry-Hop – Centennial – 2.18 oz

Dry-Hop – Chinook – 2.18 oz

 

Yeast – California

Ferm Temp – 68F

 

 

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Tonight I brewed my English IPA. Everything went very smoothly' date=' I hit my OG exactly and the wort tastes sensational [img']happy[/img]

 

Stats

Volume (end of boil, ambient): 12 litres

OG: 1.069

IBU: 84.1

EBC: 12.7

 

Process

90 minute mash @66° C, double batch sparge

90 minute boil

 

Grain

3kg Simpsons Maris Otter Malt

1kg Joe White Traditional Ale Malt

 

Hops

FWH - 38g Hallertauer Mittelfrueh [3% AA]

FWH - 21g Styrian Goldings [4.8% AA]

FWH - 9g Fuggles [5.05% AA]

FWH - 5g East Kent Goldings [5.7% AA]

Flameout (30 minute steep) - 15g East Kent Goldings

Flameout (30 minute steep) - 15g Styrian Goldings

Dry hop (7 days) - 15g East Kent Goldings

Dry hop (7 days) - 15g Styrian Goldings

 

Yeast

White Labs WLP002 English Ale, repitched slurry

 

 

Hi John

I've looked at lots of your recipes and see that you generally do smaller all grain batches. I'm thinking I will end up doing the same. I know some like Waylon think small batches are a waste of time but I'm the only person in my house who drinks beer and as such my brews last for ages, especially when I have a few different ones laying around. I'm sure I'll go all grain sometime soon but like the idea of doing smaller batches simply so I can brew more often and try different recipes.

Anyway, wondering if I can ask you a few questions:

- Do you use a crown urn and BIAB? if so is it all the same process essentially?

- Do you use standard or smaller FV?

- Do you get your grains in bulk and mill them yourself or order them already done?

- Is there any other differences to doing standard size batches?

 

cheers muchly

Chris

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Wow. What were the weights of the grains used? That is one big beer.

 

Almost 8.5kg from memory' date=' still needed that ldme as the mash efficiency was only about 75%.

 

Headmaster - what's the ABV on that likely to be? Sounds big in flavour and punch. There will be a few headaches in that batch.

 

After carbonation up near 11%, so the strongest beer I've made to date. Also the first time I've really taken the water chemistry seriously, added 2 grams calcium chloride, 13g Gypsum, and 1.6g bicarb, to achieve a suitable pale ale/IPA chloride to sulfide ratio to enhance the hop flavours.

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- Do you use a crown urn and BIAB? if so is it all the same process essentially?

- Do you use standard or smaller FV?

- Do you get your grains in bulk and mill them yourself or order them already done?

- Is there any other differences to doing standard size batches?

I'll try to answer these as best I can; I don't know for sure what John's method is but I know he doesn't use a Crown urn. It could be used though. You can get smaller urns than 40L, but I wonder if it would be worth getting the 40L anyway just in case you did want to brew bigger batches in the future.

I think he uses a smaller FV for the 10L batches.

No idea about the grains but I think they're pre-milled by the LHBS; my personal preference is to have my own mill and buy in bulk. It's not only cheaper but I can tailor the crush to suit my system the best, rather than relying on someone else, as well as only cracking the grains when needed.

No differences in process, the only difference is the size of the batch.

 

In some ways I agree with Waylon that it's a lot of time to put in to get a measly 10 litre or so batch, but at the same time everyone has their preferences as well. 10 litres is too small for me, especially having 19L kegs, and enjoying a glass most nights. At the other end of the spectrum I have no desire to brew huge batches either. For one thing it'd take forever to drink which would reduce the amount of brewing I'd do, and I'd be stuck with 3 kegs of the same bloody beer to get through. How boring.

 

My 21/25 litre batches suit me perfectly. Since I've pretty well worked out my favoured styles now, I have enough variety on tap so I'm not really experimenting much anymore other than with different hops in the styles I do drink. They're also big enough that I don't run out of beer waiting for the next ones to be ready, and I brew often enough to be satisfied.

 

I have two full kegs waiting to be tapped, with a batch currently fermenting. At this rate I should have that batch kegged before the other two on tap run out. When they run out, all three new ones will go in together while the cycle starts again getting the next three ready.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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Good morning brewers,

 

A buddy and I are brewing this up on Sunday – my first all grain English Bitter. I’ve had this one in the pipeline for quite a while so I am pretty excited it is finally getting done.

 

Rye ESB

4kg Maris Otter

1kg Rye Malt

500g Caramel Rye

50g Roasted Barley

250g Molasses

25g Pride of Ringwood at 60 minutes

30g Stryian Goldings at 15 minutes

30g Stryian Goldings at 5 minutes

2 packs of MJ Liberty Bell Ale Yeast

BIAB – No chill

 

 

Oh and btw I brewed up a batch of cider last night too (for the Missus).

 

Somerset Gold Cider

4.8lt Berri Apple Juice

4.8lt Berri Apple & Pear Juice

0.5lt Strong Dilmah Tea

Juice of 1 lemon

200g Australian Honey

1 pack of Mangrove Jacks Cider yeast

10lt recipe (close enough)

OG – 1048

 

Cheers + beers,

Mark

 

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1kg Rye Malt

 

 

Rye gives a beaut spicy unique flavour and I've found a really creamy head, BUT very starchy, so with electric systems, you can have problems if you add too much heat in the early stages of the mash, or if you do some stirring then add more heat during the mash.

 

My two only tipped batches out of 43 in the last two years were as a result of making this mistake with Rye, scorching the wort and ending up with a horrible smoky burnt taste that you cannot fix, using about 1kg as you have in this recipe.

 

Not sure what system you've got there, but if you have an electric element in direct contact with the wort, or crown urn etc, I would carefully calculate your strike water temp, so that you don't need to add heat after doughing in the grains, for say at least 15 mins, and maybe hold off on any stirring for even longer.

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Hey headmaster, thanks for the advice.

 

I am using a crown urn with concealed element and false bottom. I usually get my strike water up to 71 °, mash in, set & forget. Although I did plan on using 150g of rice hulls just to prevent clumping during the mash.

 

Last time I used a big chunk of rye was in a golden ale – about 800g or so and I didn’t have any issues with burnt flavours.

 

 

PS – I’m glad to see Otto has posted this morning. Just heard a horrible story on the radio about a 29yo bus driver here in Brisbane losing their life.

 

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Yes I saw that too on a breaking news alert. Sounded bloody horrible, doused in petrol and set alight.

 

That sounds like a good process you've got there, i have got used to adding heat using the element in my pot, to ramp between temps for rests etc, and when i stirred before a ramp up from 50c is when i burnt the first one, the second was not doing any rests, but did not hit a high enough strike temp (got lazy about that as I was used to just adding heat) and combined with a stir, send clouds of starch into the wort and scorched.

 

No way of knowing until you possibly start smelling a burnt flavour, when you are halfway or most of the way through the boil.

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Thanks Mark, yeah bloody terrible news :( The driver was from my depot too, glad I wasn't doing that shift but it's a shock and a half... feel terrible for his family and friends. I don't know what kind of idiot does something like that. He must have gone through hell crying

 

Will be interesting to see what happens in response to it too.

 

Good luck with your first ESB too, hope it goes well!

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Thanks Mark' date=' yeah bloody terrible news :( The driver was from my depot too, glad I wasn't doing that shift but it's a shock and a half... feel terrible for his family and friends. I don't know what kind of idiot does something like that. He must have gone through hell [img']crying[/img]

 

Will be interesting to see what happens in response to it too.

 

Good luck with your first ESB too, hope it goes well!

 

Jeezus!! I had the same reaction too.... absolute senseless tragedy, feel terrible for the poor bloke and all that knew him, but very glad it's not our OVB!!

Must. be a real shocker Kelsey - some crazy Shiite a bit close to home, hope you're ok mate.

 

BTW - thanks for the advice above on the smaller batches too

 

cheers

Chris

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haha i see we are both doing kolsch with K-97

 

My brew day became two because of time constraints. I put down the Little Creatures PA clone on Tuesday, then didn't get time to do the Cooper's Cool Kolsch DIY recipe until Thursday.

 

I pitched a packet of US-05 into the LCPA and used K-97 in the Kolsch. Both were rehydrated in 38C water for 30mins before pitching.

 

Interestingly, the US-05 took a while to get started. At 24 hours the krausen was just beginning to form.

 

In contrast, the K-97 was thick at 24hours. Very keen to see how these brews come out. First ales that I have fermented in my brew fridge and first time doing a double.

 

Fortuitously, there is a temp difference in the top and bottom brews. The bottom is further from the cooling element and is the US-05 batch, fermenting just shy of 18C. The top fermenter is the K-97 batch and seems to be a couple of degrees cooler as it is right next to the cooling plate. I'l measure a sample, but I think it will be around 16C. Perfect for the yeast and the style that I am trying to achieve in the Kolsch (low esters)

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Thanks guys, I'm alright, obviously shocked though and I do feel kind of strange, it doesn't seem real yet. I was back on the road this arvo as normal but yeah, just at a loss for words really. It could have been me in that bus, but there's no point dwelling on the could haves, because they didn't happen.

 

 

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Sorry to hear that terrible tragedy cuts so close to home for you, Otto. Damn.

 

Now I feel silly asking about whether to brew a MO + Crystal + EK Goldings English pale or a 2-row + Munich + Caramalt Aussie pale with Perle and Ella. But I will.

 

The main idea is to try out the CCA yeast I've just restarted.

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Sounds like you will have to work over time today!

And do the two brews' date=' don't waste anytime mate both sound worthy so get cracking![/quote']

 

Mate, I wish I had the time... and the fridge space!

 

In the end I went with the aussie version but realised at the last minute I was out of Ella.

 

2.2kg Pale 2-Row

.2kg Munich

.1kg Caramalt

7.5g Perle @ 45

7.5g Amarllo @ 45

10g Perle @ 5

10g Amarillo @ 5

CCA Yeast

 

I had to go out while the wort was chilling and it ended up down at 14... hopefully it'll wake back up today, it's meant to get to 28 here in Sydney. Fridge temp's set at 18.5.

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I brewed up a Dr Smuto's Golden Ale

 

 

Got 23L at 1.048 from the Grainfather.

 

Strained out the hop trub and got almost 1 L of wort for yeast starters. Topped the mason jar up with water and sat it in boiling water for quite a while.

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Time for another Rye

 

2.5 kg United Kingdom - Golden Promise 37 3 51%

1.25 kg American - Rye 38 3.5 25.5%

0.75 kg German - Vienna 37 4 15.3%

0.1 kg German - Acidulated Malt 27 3.4 2%

0.3 kg German - CaraHell 34 11 6.1%

4.9 kg Total

 

Amarillo and Cascade to bit over 40 IBU

US-05 @ 18 C

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Maharaja Imperial IPA

 

Well this one has been going 12 days, the massive dose of US05 I gave it (600ml of fresh compacted harvested yeast) made short work of the 1.088 OG, was 1.017 in 4 days, and now 1.015. My brewcipher sheet predicted FG 1.017.

 

Just took out the 240g of dry hops tonight after 4 days in. 20litres left after squeezing and removing the hops. This thing tastes like nothing I have ever experienced.. Crikey, the alcohol hit is noticeable and pleasurable, as is the body, but it has a good bitterness balance as well, hop flavours are infinitely strong and somewhere way off the charts.. Time to cold crash for a few days then bottle Can't wait till it's carbonated to properly sample one :-)

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