Jump to content

Mark D Pirate

Coopers Club Members
  • Content Count

    1,548
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Mark D Pirate last won the day on January 25 2019

Mark D Pirate had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

437 Outstanding

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Triple batch of rye ipa this afternoon. Better behave myself tonight since I'm judging club comp in the morning and remember how bad it was trying to fairly judge 12 DIPAs in a row with a hangover
  2. @MitchellScott 3.68 g / L works very well , ( 70 g of white sugar in corny)
  3. What do you think a whirlpool is for ? i start running the recirc / whirlpool pump with 10 mins left in boil to sterilise the pump and lines , the chiller / heat exchanger goes in at same time for same reasons and it doesn't usually get turned off until chilling is complete . Chilling will be far more efficient with wort moving than it is without . The actual whirlpool is once wort has reached ~70 C ill cut the coolant flow and add my whirlpool hop addition if it's required by the recipe . Once chilling is complete i turn off all pumps and coolant and allow to settle for 15-20 minutes before running off to fermentor .
  4. Yakima, HPA, Bintani and if I only need a small amount of a variety then Beerbelly . If needs be we split 10 kg foils between friends
  5. Never tried a mixed priming charge to get my bubbles but you can try This to get your calcs, it will easily handle different sugars. Like others I prefer to bulk prime , mostly due to different sized bottles on the few batches I actually bottle
  6. I'll mix my PBW at 10 g per litre into 60° water and seldom use a soak since I strip and clean parts regularly To rinse I'll recirculate plain tap water and heat until near boiling. In short, yes
  7. Double batch of DSGA today. Centennial and azacca Just because... Will skip dry hop and keg hop only 1 keg to test a theory I'm working on
  8. The screen and baffle will be in plastic of course, but even if you wanted to extend a previously trimmed diptube then some food grade tube would take all of 15 seconds to fit . I've even been tempted to put an extra bulkhead type liquid post attached to a spare keg lid so if an outpost blocks I can quickly swap a lid out and carry on serving clear beer.
  9. Several of my kegs have trimmed diptubes, however I also like to keg hop and am a bit of a hop fiend. I have floating diptubes in 2 kegs that work pretty well with my insanely over hopped beers. I need to buy myself a 3D printer to make up a little screen and baffle around the pickup so if a keg gets moved the gunge can't settle next to the diptube .
  10. Kinda pointless to attempt to force carb at variable/ ambient temps . Half the reason to natural carb is the oxygen scavenging and maturing you get as well as a predictable carb level . If you carbed a keg and then stored at ambient / cellar temp you will get a slightly more mellowed and rounded beer but any oxygen picked up along the way will shortly effect the beer.
  11. Many, many times. Any taste difference between natural or forced carbed is a function of time stored warm than carb method in my experience
  12. What's your line cleaning regiment like? Dirty lines make beer sad
  13. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/610568/stouty-mc-stout-face-v1 That should work, not quite the same but a solid stout
×
×
  • Create New...