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headmaster last won the day on February 13

headmaster had the most liked content!

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  1. headmaster

    New Inkbird 308

    I would be surprised actually if you could not adjust from anywhere on the internet. Maybe you have a local config problem like a firewall or port issue. Found this comment from what appears to be an inkbird rep, on an ozbargain thread where it appears inkbird did a flash sale for $55 delivered for this wifi controller last month: " AssociatedInkbird on 16/04/2019 - 20:30 It needs to connect to wifi that has the internet connection,then you could control it at any time anywhere. The special offer will end in 3 hours."
  2. headmaster

    New Inkbird 308

    Inkbird could upgrade the app to facilitate that quite easily in the future if it really cant connect that way.
  3. headmaster

    Time to Start Milling My Own Grain

    It is very good in my experience. Keep in mind you will need a high torque low rpm drill to run this thing. It does have a 12mm drive shaft, and some cheaper battery drills only have a 10mm chuck. Cheaper 240v drills can have 13mm chucks, but they tend to spin too fast. You want about 200 rpm, which battery drills with the standard two speed gearbox will run this mill just fine. I use a pretty cheap aldi battery drill, with a larger external chuck fitted, something like this. Was $12 when I bought one of these chuck adapters.
  4. headmaster

    Time to Start Milling My Own Grain

    I have a https://www.kegland.com.au/maltmuncher-grain-mill-3-roller.html I like the three roller as the first gap is wide, and second gap adjustable, means no issues with wheat bouncing out, no messing about with hydrating grain to make it go through. New fluted rollers on two rollers probably fix those problems but for me, the three roller is a winner. These are a cheaper option compared to the millmaster, but my 4 plus year old maltmuncher, has milled some 80 batches worth so probably not far off half a tonne of grain, and no issues with bearings or any other problem.
  5. headmaster

    Always have a spare tap!

    Also, pays to be gentle with these when taking apart and putting back together. The plastic tags ideally should be larger and thicker that hold the two shells together, otherwise a brilliant design.
  6. headmaster


    I don't think Titan's beer was dry hopped though? Hop Creep only happens with dry hopping and I have witnessed this myself with a NEIPA I made, I was sure it had finished attenuating and the priming sugar was spot on for a calculated 2.5 vols but was way over that after 6 weeks or so. Titan, if it doesn't taste like it's overcarbed and/or doesn't appear to have massive pressure relief when you open the bottle, then it will be something in solution that is acting as nucleation points for the CO2 to come out of solution. As Kelsey mentioned, if you 'cold crash' one in the fridge for a longer period of time, this may settle out these particles that could be causing this problem. They could be yeast cells. or other particulate matter, another thing to make sure of is that you don't upset the sediment on the bottom of the bottle. This is much more of a problem for people who don't understand bottle conditioned beer. They tilt and upend the bottles with no regard and store lying down in the fridge, bad idea.. If there is too much CO2 in there, it could well be some enzyme or contamination causing the beer to continue to attenuate, this is much more likely with dark beers and their higher residual sugars, so sanitation/contamination issues will show up more with these. You can carefully use a blade edge bottle opener to bleed out CO2 without creasing the crown seal (or needing to re-seal) After doing this a few times to each bottle over a few days/weeks they might be ok but may develop an off flavour if a contamination causing this,
  7. headmaster

    What's in your fermenter? 2019

    + 1 on the pantyhose, and boiling to remove dye. I bought some years ago and keep reusing them, basically cut off the leg sections into a couple of lengths, and tie knots in the ends to seal. I bought the supposed non-coloured ones, labelled 'Nude' but these are still dyed as I expect raw nylon would be pure white. So I must have boiled them in a pot for a couple of hours as I was cooking something one day, I kept changing the water using boiled water from the kettle, as the dye came out. I don't use them in the boil though, I use a stainless hop spider for that, which has pretty fine mesh. I only use the stockings cold for dry hopping. I put glass marbles in them, then boil from cold before each use (if you boil with hot water from kettle the marbles will shatter) The marbles of course help the dry hop utilisation by sinking them. I have nylon fishing line tied to one end of the stocking section, which I hang outside the coopers FV, allowing me to agitate like a giant tea bag. I tend to limit each stocking to about 40g hops, so if I have a massive dry hop will use two or three stocking sections, each with marbles and fishing line tethers. When dry hop time has elapsed say 3 days, I lift out with the line and squeeze the remaining goodness out with my hand, wearing a vinyl food grade glove, that I usually spray with my handy bottle of iodophor solution.
  8. headmaster


    That will most likely be ethyl acetate, some information here: https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/O1rjQz3DYu/ Concludes what Otto said, plus discusses production by wild yeast, exposure to oxygen, underpitching etc
  9. headmaster

    Flameout Hop Additions

    it does support extract brewing actually. It looks a bit technical but not that difficult to use really. I find it to be very accurate.
  10. headmaster

    Flameout Hop Additions

    The brewcipher sheet which I use, enables you to enter flameout hops, and also nominate the average temp they will experience and for how long. and calculates bitterness extracted. I have found this function to be very useful as a no chiller. Helps me decide whether I need to chuck the cube in the swimming pool or not. Can be downloaded from here: Brewcipher version 5.1 here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-9BMe0xDqppODg1NjVjM2QtNjBjMC00YmM5LTgzN2UtYmNhYzk0ZTg0YWNm
  11. headmaster

    Gravity Reading headaches.

    Unless this was a measurement error, due to bubbles causing your hydro to float more on the 1010 reading, then yes it is possible, as there are enzymes in hops that are alive and active between 3°C and 60°C that can and will convert higher order sugars that the yeast refuse to eat into simpler ones that they like. (ogliosaccharides and dextrines to maltose) This means the yeast can kick off again and ferment these new sugars, reducing the gravity further. This has been discussed on another thread on here at length. I have seen this happen myself with overcarbonation of a NEIPA, Stone and Wood had a major problem with this, which now means they have to pasteurise their bottled beer to kill those enzymes. I would expect it would take more than a couple of days for this process to occur though, so maybe some hydro measurement variation was involved. Make sure you are measuring at the same approx temp, (if cold crashed makes a big difference until warmed back up to room temp) and make sure to spin the bubbles off the hydro to get it to sink to the correct level.
  12. headmaster

    New Inkbird 308

    I'd say you need to make sure the model says "ITC-308WiFi' I can vouch for the quality, good solid probe and cable, going by my 310. This wifi model would also be good for remote brewfridge temp adustments if you were on holidays and needed to ramp for a diacetyl rest for eg.
  13. headmaster

    New Inkbird 308

    That does look great. I would have preferred this to my ITC-310 that I just bought (the one with up to 12 programmable temp steps) as it does appear you can program and change temperature steps using the app https://www.ink-bird.com/support-faqs-itc308wifi.html I assume it would also work over the net to your wifi, so that you could run a mash during the day while at work. If I do this with my ITC310, I have to set up a webcam to keep an eye on what it is doing..
  14. headmaster

    150 Lashes clone recipe

    The 'draft' in bottles (which makes no sense unless from a marketing standpoint) is actually their Kolsch
  15. headmaster

    Lamp for temp control

    I run reptile heat cords, mine are 5 metres long, 25 watt. Used to be able to buy them for $11 delivered from asia, no longer.. I use them for my two brew fridges, plus for broccoli/seafood foam box wintertime bottle carbonation chambers. I like these as the power density is low so it never gets hot enough to do any damage. In a broccoli box you can distribute the 5M evenly around the bottles. You need to have a controller like an inkbird or STC or you will overheat the chamber. Power meter said it only ran 6W average in winter inside the fridge to run 18c inside with ambient say 10c. Some for sale here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reptile-Heat-Cord-Small-Large-Sizes-Available-1m-3m-6m-9m-10m-14m-18m-/182760016573?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=690078717168&varId=690078717168 I would go the 3m 25W version there. Not cheap any more though.. looks like 30$ delivered. You could buy a brewing heat belt for that, but I actually prefer these cords. The heat belts are designed to be wrapped around a fermenter. Not what I want to do. Have heard that you can melt a heat belt if not wrapped around the FV as not heatsunk