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headmaster last won the day on February 13 2019

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  1. Hi there KR, The BJCP 32B smoked specialty beer category would suffice, as the base beer can be anything and does not have to be a classic style. Of course you would need some smoked malt in the mix somewhere. Alternatively 34C Experimental Beer can be pretty much anything you nominate. From BJCP Guidelines 2015: 34C. Experimental Beer This is explicitly a catch-all category for any beer that does not fit into an existing style description. No beer is ever “out of style” in this style, unless it fits elsewhere. This is the last resort for any beer entered into a competition. Overall Impression: Varies, but should be a unique experience. Aroma: Varies. Appearance: Varies. Flavor: Varies. Mouthfeel: Varies.Comments: This style is the ultimate in creativity, since it cannot represent a well-known commercial beer (otherwise it would be a clone beer) and cannot fit into any other existing Specialty-Type style (including those within this major category).
  2. Baltic Porter. These usually use a large amount of vienna or munich as the base. Made one recently, using approx 3kg of each in a 9.7kg malt bill for 23 litres.
  3. I almost wrote something about calibrating new additions to the brewhouse like this blacksands, definitely with any new thermometer used for mashing, ideally a calibration needs to be done or at least a comparison with what you were using to be done. I tend to take one of my digital probe thermos that I trust and put it into a thermowell with the new probe and let it settle for quite a while, to compare, at around the same temperature you need the accuracy for. So in the 40° to 70°c range if using it for step mashing. Probably matters less for fermentation fridge conrtol.
  4. forgot to mention what I paid for it and from whom, bought from Inkbird ebay shop, $59.95AUD delivered supposedly on special, usually $69.95 delivered. They have a NSW AU presence so only took a few days to arrive.
  5. I have just bought one of these Inkbird ITC-308 WiFi, couldn't resist it.. Plugged it in, downloaded the app, everything worked a treat, both on WiFi and cellular. The temp charting is a great feature, as is the ability to easily change all the parameters in app rather than the more confusing buttons on the actual unit. Plus you can change all of those remotely. I can see myself running a 'while at work' mash very soon from my phone, and having it at mashout just as I come home from work.
  6. I would be surprised actually if you could not adjust from anywhere on the internet. Maybe you have a local config problem like a firewall or port issue. Found this comment from what appears to be an inkbird rep, on an ozbargain thread where it appears inkbird did a flash sale for $55 delivered for this wifi controller last month: " AssociatedInkbird on 16/04/2019 - 20:30 It needs to connect to wifi that has the internet connection,then you could control it at any time anywhere. The special offer will end in 3 hours."
  7. Inkbird could upgrade the app to facilitate that quite easily in the future if it really cant connect that way.
  8. It is very good in my experience. Keep in mind you will need a high torque low rpm drill to run this thing. It does have a 12mm drive shaft, and some cheaper battery drills only have a 10mm chuck. Cheaper 240v drills can have 13mm chucks, but they tend to spin too fast. You want about 200 rpm, which battery drills with the standard two speed gearbox will run this mill just fine. I use a pretty cheap aldi battery drill, with a larger external chuck fitted, something like this. Was $12 when I bought one of these chuck adapters.
  9. I have a https://www.kegland.com.au/maltmuncher-grain-mill-3-roller.html I like the three roller as the first gap is wide, and second gap adjustable, means no issues with wheat bouncing out, no messing about with hydrating grain to make it go through. New fluted rollers on two rollers probably fix those problems but for me, the three roller is a winner. These are a cheaper option compared to the millmaster, but my 4 plus year old maltmuncher, has milled some 80 batches worth so probably not far off half a tonne of grain, and no issues with bearings or any other problem.
  10. Also, pays to be gentle with these when taking apart and putting back together. The plastic tags ideally should be larger and thicker that hold the two shells together, otherwise a brilliant design.
  11. I don't think Titan's beer was dry hopped though? Hop Creep only happens with dry hopping and I have witnessed this myself with a NEIPA I made, I was sure it had finished attenuating and the priming sugar was spot on for a calculated 2.5 vols but was way over that after 6 weeks or so. Titan, if it doesn't taste like it's overcarbed and/or doesn't appear to have massive pressure relief when you open the bottle, then it will be something in solution that is acting as nucleation points for the CO2 to come out of solution. As Kelsey mentioned, if you 'cold crash' one in the fridge for a longer period of time, this may settle out these particles that could be causing this problem. They could be yeast cells. or other particulate matter, another thing to make sure of is that you don't upset the sediment on the bottom of the bottle. This is much more of a problem for people who don't understand bottle conditioned beer. They tilt and upend the bottles with no regard and store lying down in the fridge, bad idea.. If there is too much CO2 in there, it could well be some enzyme or contamination causing the beer to continue to attenuate, this is much more likely with dark beers and their higher residual sugars, so sanitation/contamination issues will show up more with these. You can carefully use a blade edge bottle opener to bleed out CO2 without creasing the crown seal (or needing to re-seal) After doing this a few times to each bottle over a few days/weeks they might be ok but may develop an off flavour if a contamination causing this,
  12. + 1 on the pantyhose, and boiling to remove dye. I bought some years ago and keep reusing them, basically cut off the leg sections into a couple of lengths, and tie knots in the ends to seal. I bought the supposed non-coloured ones, labelled 'Nude' but these are still dyed as I expect raw nylon would be pure white. So I must have boiled them in a pot for a couple of hours as I was cooking something one day, I kept changing the water using boiled water from the kettle, as the dye came out. I don't use them in the boil though, I use a stainless hop spider for that, which has pretty fine mesh. I only use the stockings cold for dry hopping. I put glass marbles in them, then boil from cold before each use (if you boil with hot water from kettle the marbles will shatter) The marbles of course help the dry hop utilisation by sinking them. I have nylon fishing line tied to one end of the stocking section, which I hang outside the coopers FV, allowing me to agitate like a giant tea bag. I tend to limit each stocking to about 40g hops, so if I have a massive dry hop will use two or three stocking sections, each with marbles and fishing line tethers. When dry hop time has elapsed say 3 days, I lift out with the line and squeeze the remaining goodness out with my hand, wearing a vinyl food grade glove, that I usually spray with my handy bottle of iodophor solution.
  13. That will most likely be ethyl acetate, some information here: https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/O1rjQz3DYu/ Concludes what Otto said, plus discusses production by wild yeast, exposure to oxygen, underpitching etc
  14. it does support extract brewing actually. It looks a bit technical but not that difficult to use really. I find it to be very accurate.
  15. The brewcipher sheet which I use, enables you to enter flameout hops, and also nominate the average temp they will experience and for how long. and calculates bitterness extracted. I have found this function to be very useful as a no chiller. Helps me decide whether I need to chuck the cube in the swimming pool or not. Can be downloaded from here: Brewcipher version 5.1 here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-9BMe0xDqppODg1NjVjM2QtNjBjMC00YmM5LTgzN2UtYmNhYzk0ZTg0YWNm
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