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Everything posted by headmaster

  1. Hi there KR, The BJCP 32B smoked specialty beer category would suffice, as the base beer can be anything and does not have to be a classic style. Of course you would need some smoked malt in the mix somewhere. Alternatively 34C Experimental Beer can be pretty much anything you nominate. From BJCP Guidelines 2015: 34C. Experimental Beer This is explicitly a catch-all category for any beer that does not fit into an existing style description. No beer is ever “out of style” in this style, unless it fits elsewhere. This is the last resort for any beer entered into a competition. Overall Impression: Varies, but should be a unique experience. Aroma: Varies. Appearance: Varies. Flavor: Varies. Mouthfeel: Varies.Comments: This style is the ultimate in creativity, since it cannot represent a well-known commercial beer (otherwise it would be a clone beer) and cannot fit into any other existing Specialty-Type style (including those within this major category).
  2. Baltic Porter. These usually use a large amount of vienna or munich as the base. Made one recently, using approx 3kg of each in a 9.7kg malt bill for 23 litres.
  3. I almost wrote something about calibrating new additions to the brewhouse like this blacksands, definitely with any new thermometer used for mashing, ideally a calibration needs to be done or at least a comparison with what you were using to be done. I tend to take one of my digital probe thermos that I trust and put it into a thermowell with the new probe and let it settle for quite a while, to compare, at around the same temperature you need the accuracy for. So in the 40° to 70°c range if using it for step mashing. Probably matters less for fermentation fridge conrtol.
  4. forgot to mention what I paid for it and from whom, bought from Inkbird ebay shop, $59.95AUD delivered supposedly on special, usually $69.95 delivered. They have a NSW AU presence so only took a few days to arrive.
  5. I have just bought one of these Inkbird ITC-308 WiFi, couldn't resist it.. Plugged it in, downloaded the app, everything worked a treat, both on WiFi and cellular. The temp charting is a great feature, as is the ability to easily change all the parameters in app rather than the more confusing buttons on the actual unit. Plus you can change all of those remotely. I can see myself running a 'while at work' mash very soon from my phone, and having it at mashout just as I come home from work.
  6. I would be surprised actually if you could not adjust from anywhere on the internet. Maybe you have a local config problem like a firewall or port issue. Found this comment from what appears to be an inkbird rep, on an ozbargain thread where it appears inkbird did a flash sale for $55 delivered for this wifi controller last month: " AssociatedInkbird on 16/04/2019 - 20:30 It needs to connect to wifi that has the internet connection,then you could control it at any time anywhere. The special offer will end in 3 hours."
  7. Inkbird could upgrade the app to facilitate that quite easily in the future if it really cant connect that way.
  8. It is very good in my experience. Keep in mind you will need a high torque low rpm drill to run this thing. It does have a 12mm drive shaft, and some cheaper battery drills only have a 10mm chuck. Cheaper 240v drills can have 13mm chucks, but they tend to spin too fast. You want about 200 rpm, which battery drills with the standard two speed gearbox will run this mill just fine. I use a pretty cheap aldi battery drill, with a larger external chuck fitted, something like this. Was $12 when I bought one of these chuck adapters.
  9. I have a https://www.kegland.com.au/maltmuncher-grain-mill-3-roller.html I like the three roller as the first gap is wide, and second gap adjustable, means no issues with wheat bouncing out, no messing about with hydrating grain to make it go through. New fluted rollers on two rollers probably fix those problems but for me, the three roller is a winner. These are a cheaper option compared to the millmaster, but my 4 plus year old maltmuncher, has milled some 80 batches worth so probably not far off half a tonne of grain, and no issues with bearings or any other problem.
  10. Also, pays to be gentle with these when taking apart and putting back together. The plastic tags ideally should be larger and thicker that hold the two shells together, otherwise a brilliant design.
  11. I don't think Titan's beer was dry hopped though? Hop Creep only happens with dry hopping and I have witnessed this myself with a NEIPA I made, I was sure it had finished attenuating and the priming sugar was spot on for a calculated 2.5 vols but was way over that after 6 weeks or so. Titan, if it doesn't taste like it's overcarbed and/or doesn't appear to have massive pressure relief when you open the bottle, then it will be something in solution that is acting as nucleation points for the CO2 to come out of solution. As Kelsey mentioned, if you 'cold crash' one in the fridge for a longer period of time, this may settle out these particles that could be causing this problem. They could be yeast cells. or other particulate matter, another thing to make sure of is that you don't upset the sediment on the bottom of the bottle. This is much more of a problem for people who don't understand bottle conditioned beer. They tilt and upend the bottles with no regard and store lying down in the fridge, bad idea.. If there is too much CO2 in there, it could well be some enzyme or contamination causing the beer to continue to attenuate, this is much more likely with dark beers and their higher residual sugars, so sanitation/contamination issues will show up more with these. You can carefully use a blade edge bottle opener to bleed out CO2 without creasing the crown seal (or needing to re-seal) After doing this a few times to each bottle over a few days/weeks they might be ok but may develop an off flavour if a contamination causing this,
  12. + 1 on the pantyhose, and boiling to remove dye. I bought some years ago and keep reusing them, basically cut off the leg sections into a couple of lengths, and tie knots in the ends to seal. I bought the supposed non-coloured ones, labelled 'Nude' but these are still dyed as I expect raw nylon would be pure white. So I must have boiled them in a pot for a couple of hours as I was cooking something one day, I kept changing the water using boiled water from the kettle, as the dye came out. I don't use them in the boil though, I use a stainless hop spider for that, which has pretty fine mesh. I only use the stockings cold for dry hopping. I put glass marbles in them, then boil from cold before each use (if you boil with hot water from kettle the marbles will shatter) The marbles of course help the dry hop utilisation by sinking them. I have nylon fishing line tied to one end of the stocking section, which I hang outside the coopers FV, allowing me to agitate like a giant tea bag. I tend to limit each stocking to about 40g hops, so if I have a massive dry hop will use two or three stocking sections, each with marbles and fishing line tethers. When dry hop time has elapsed say 3 days, I lift out with the line and squeeze the remaining goodness out with my hand, wearing a vinyl food grade glove, that I usually spray with my handy bottle of iodophor solution.
  13. That will most likely be ethyl acetate, some information here: https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/O1rjQz3DYu/ Concludes what Otto said, plus discusses production by wild yeast, exposure to oxygen, underpitching etc
  14. it does support extract brewing actually. It looks a bit technical but not that difficult to use really. I find it to be very accurate.
  15. The brewcipher sheet which I use, enables you to enter flameout hops, and also nominate the average temp they will experience and for how long. and calculates bitterness extracted. I have found this function to be very useful as a no chiller. Helps me decide whether I need to chuck the cube in the swimming pool or not. Can be downloaded from here: Brewcipher version 5.1 here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-9BMe0xDqppODg1NjVjM2QtNjBjMC00YmM5LTgzN2UtYmNhYzk0ZTg0YWNm
  16. Unless this was a measurement error, due to bubbles causing your hydro to float more on the 1010 reading, then yes it is possible, as there are enzymes in hops that are alive and active between 3°C and 60°C that can and will convert higher order sugars that the yeast refuse to eat into simpler ones that they like. (ogliosaccharides and dextrines to maltose) This means the yeast can kick off again and ferment these new sugars, reducing the gravity further. This has been discussed on another thread on here at length. I have seen this happen myself with overcarbonation of a NEIPA, Stone and Wood had a major problem with this, which now means they have to pasteurise their bottled beer to kill those enzymes. I would expect it would take more than a couple of days for this process to occur though, so maybe some hydro measurement variation was involved. Make sure you are measuring at the same approx temp, (if cold crashed makes a big difference until warmed back up to room temp) and make sure to spin the bubbles off the hydro to get it to sink to the correct level.
  17. I'd say you need to make sure the model says "ITC-308WiFi' I can vouch for the quality, good solid probe and cable, going by my 310. This wifi model would also be good for remote brewfridge temp adustments if you were on holidays and needed to ramp for a diacetyl rest for eg.
  18. That does look great. I would have preferred this to my ITC-310 that I just bought (the one with up to 12 programmable temp steps) as it does appear you can program and change temperature steps using the app https://www.ink-bird.com/support-faqs-itc308wifi.html I assume it would also work over the net to your wifi, so that you could run a mash during the day while at work. If I do this with my ITC310, I have to set up a webcam to keep an eye on what it is doing..
  19. The 'draft' in bottles (which makes no sense unless from a marketing standpoint) is actually their Kolsch
  20. I run reptile heat cords, mine are 5 metres long, 25 watt. Used to be able to buy them for $11 delivered from asia, no longer.. I use them for my two brew fridges, plus for broccoli/seafood foam box wintertime bottle carbonation chambers. I like these as the power density is low so it never gets hot enough to do any damage. In a broccoli box you can distribute the 5M evenly around the bottles. You need to have a controller like an inkbird or STC or you will overheat the chamber. Power meter said it only ran 6W average in winter inside the fridge to run 18c inside with ambient say 10c. Some for sale here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reptile-Heat-Cord-Small-Large-Sizes-Available-1m-3m-6m-9m-10m-14m-18m-/182760016573?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=690078717168&varId=690078717168 I would go the 3m 25W version there. Not cheap any more though.. looks like 30$ delivered. You could buy a brewing heat belt for that, but I actually prefer these cords. The heat belts are designed to be wrapped around a fermenter. Not what I want to do. Have heard that you can melt a heat belt if not wrapped around the FV as not heatsunk
  21. As mentioned on "whats in your fermenter 2019" recently, tannins, otherwise known as polyphenols (also known as Phenolics) that can make a beer astringent, (try sucking a tea bag and you will get a massive hit of this) are part and parcel of darker beers, coming from the darker roasted grains. Brewers try to avoid these by using de-husked malts like the carafa special range I, II, and III. I have found you still get astringency from these to a certain extent. As mentioned in the other thread, I got this in quite a big way from strawberry seeds, after I hit them with a stick blender.. But age and also temp as well as finings are your friend here, as these can be made to bind to stuff and drop out, finings and/or cold temps and some time. Leave out the finings and cold temp and a year may go a long way just leaving at ambient, to make that dark beer a whole lot smoother as the tannins drop out in the bottle or keg. This is only one aspect though, as others have mentioned above, there are other factors, like the reduction of bitterness, melding of flavours, some other unknown magic etc.. My baltic porter wort that I just made does have astringency but I fully expect this to be conditioned out by the time I submit to the state comp late this year, which is why I'm making it now. But I will be keeping some for another year or two to submit to future comps, as it may well get even better. They can get a bit of a vineous, port or sherry like character with that much age, (sherry like from a bit of oxidation) which can be complimentary to this beer. It's fermenting very well at 9c at the moment, churning away, due to the massive pitch in the form of a dedicated W34/70 yeast cake that I made for it. But I will probably go 17 to 10 days at this temp, then ramp to 18 for diacetyl rest, maybe another week, make sure it's done, then cold crash/lager at -2c for at least 3 weeks but possibly up to 6, will go by taste to see how smooth I can get it, then bottle when I think it's ready, carbonate, then store cold through winter under the house.
  22. That was a typo, it had an OG of 1.087 actually
  23. You could add now, the only reason you wait til end primary fermentation is to avoid scrubbing out volatile flavour compounds, the same reason brewers dry hop as fermentation subsides.
  24. Great stuff! Looking forward to that too, I will be there, with my version on board. I actually forgot that I had three jars of pulp in the freezer, I wanted to add all three. I estimate that from the 6kg box, I yielded about 1.6 kg of pulp, and I did measure how much juice I squeezed out using the nylon bag, it was only 700ml which I thought was really low, but the third missing jar explains that. Still, it does have a nice balance, not overpowered, I think if too strong it may start to taste like alcoholic passiona. I did think it was tasting quite tart, which I like, but measured PH of a degassed sample and it was 3.21, and happy with that. Pretty much the same as the soured wort, despite the significant amount of ascorbic acid that is in the passionfruit. You need to degas as the carbonic acid throws the reading I have read.
  25. Some more notes about fruit additions, that was my first of my ‘summer series’ of berliner weisse and catharina sours. I then made a nectarine, followed by cherry and then passionfruit, drinking the passionfruit now, bliss in a bottle. What I did with the passionfruit was to get the pulp out of a 6kg box from the Flemington markets, then freeze in jars until I was ready. I wanted to avoid a whole bunch of fruit matter in the brew, and wanted to add to primary without messing about with racking to secondary, like a did with the cherry, (not that this caused any oxidation issues anyway with that one). So I grabbed a spare brand new BIAB nylon close weave mesh bag, and put the thawed passion fruit pulp in to this, then proceeded to squeeze the life out of it. I managed to get heaps of juice out, leaving the pulp and seeds behind in the bag. I saved the seeds and pulp, and ate that over time on homemade greek yoghurt, in kombucha etc, and despite being seed heavy, was a very enjoyable use of waste product that otherwise would reduce brewhouse efficiency in the trub that woud get thrown away and prevent me harvesting the yeast. The nectarines and cherries were another story, I did blend the nectarines, the cherries got mashed with a potato masher after cooking both up to about 75 to 80c to pasteurise. So heaps of loss in trub with those in comparison to the passionfruit one.
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