First timer, be gentle

[Triple B Brewing]

1 hour ago, Moul I mean said:

Waiting, and anticipation rising. Sunday bottling hopefully, makes 14 days in FV. Two + weeks the till bottles go I fridge.

On the topic of fridges, nice tie in there, have an opportunity for a fridge for nothing, large, it works etc, as I live in a very hot climate at the moment, 45 last week on some days, would a temp controller to be bought plus the fridge be beneficial. 
 

probably over stepping since this will be the first of hopefully many from now on. 

 

thoughts?

@Moul I mean if you are still reading these responses - STOP and get that free fridge !

To make the best of it you will need to buy a temperature controller ~$140 and a means of heating ~$90 (I purchased a heat tube for my heating component, they use these a lot in the UK to keep mild out of wardrobes, etc, but there’s lots of ways to skin this cat). I also added a small 240V computer fan ~$15 to circulate the air in the fridge and a cheap timer ~$7 from Bunnings to turn the fan on and off intermittently throughout the 24 hours. 
What you will end up with is a temperature controlled fermentation fridge, which means you will be able to brew any style of beer you want, any time of the year AND have it brewed at its constant and preferred temperature. 
This is the single best thing I personally have done as a home brewer. 

[Triple B Brewing]

4 minutes ago, Pale Man said:

Beers condition in the keg or bottle Phil. As soon as that FG has stabilized in the fermenter, get it out of there.

I’m absolutely in that boat as well - totally agree Paley 

[Triple B Brewing]

9 minutes ago, Moul I mean said:

Pale Man, newbie here:) , Cold crash? Ok will do research on that , 

@Moul I mean, try this as a starting point mate

https://www.ikegger.com/blogs/ikeggerworld/how-to-keg-beer-part-4-cold-crashing-and-force-carbonating

Cold crashing is performed when the beer is fully fermented and ready to be packaged. The process involves lowering the temperature of the beer very quickly to near-freezing temperatures and holding it there for about 24 – 48 hours.
The ideal temperature you should reach is 2-4°C approximately.

This process will provide you with a very clear beer  

[Pale Man]

6 minutes ago, Moul I mean said:

Pale Man, newbie here:) , Cold crash? Ok will do research on that , 

Cold crashing is basically putting your fermented beer to sleep, so the yeast isnt eating off nastys when a clean ferment is done and dusted. So basically putting yeast to sleep. Usually cool your fermenter down to 2 degrees when your final gravity is stable.

Has other advantages. Because there is no activity in the wort, a lot of debris will settle in the trub at the bottom of the fermenter and help for a clearer beer if thats what you're after.

Also a big advantage for keggers. Colder wort absorbs C02 more readily and conditions your beer better.

[Back Brewing]

20 minutes ago, Pale Man said:

Around 8 - 9 days for my beers. Always ready to cold crash for 2 days then keg or bottle. So I have a 10 day turn around. 14 days in the fermenter to me is far too long. Those last 4 days give anything a chance. These days modern yeasts do their job pretty quickly.

Totally agree I kegged my last brew on day 9 tastes good so from now on day 8 as you said if it's finished cold crash for 2 days then keg

[Classic Brewing Co]

19 minutes ago, Pale Man said:

Around 8 - 9 days for my beers. Always ready to cold crash for 2 days then keg or bottle. So I have a 10 day turn around. 14 days in the fermenter to me is far too long. Those last 4 days give anything a chance. These days modern yeasts do their job pretty quickly.

Yeah I must admit the last few I have started a CC after about 10 days & then depending on how thirsty I M they usually only get 2-3 days at best then kegged. 

I agree about the yeasts though.

[ozdevil]

like others if  your got the chance of a free working fridge for brewing take the oppurtunity to grab it

my advice on temp controller if  you want to future proof yaself  and have more control is a kegland temp controller yes they are bit more expensive then  the inkbird temp controller

i have used both temp controllers  bother worked a treat   but i  can set a profile  to the kegland temp controller and will basicly do the  ferment for you except dry hop the beer.

either way you choose it will benifit your brewing

 

[Triple B Brewing]

1 hour ago, Moul I mean said:

Waiting, and anticipation rising. Sunday bottling hopefully, makes 14 days in FV. Two + weeks the till bottles go I fridge.

On the topic of fridges, nice tie in there, have an opportunity for a fridge for nothing, large, it works etc, as I live in a very hot climate at the moment, 45 last week on some days, would a temp controller to be bought plus the fridge be beneficial. 
 

probably over stepping since this will be the first of hopefully many from now on. 

 

thoughts?

@Moul I mean as I said, there's lots of ways to skin a cat, but here's some info on how I set up my ferment fridge which you could potentially apply

Fermentation Fridge.pdf

[Pale Man]

Just now, Classic Brewing Co said:

Yeah I must admit the last few I have started a CC after about 10 days & then depending on how thirsty I M they usually only get 2-3 days at best then kegged. 

I agree about the yeasts though.

Not having a go at your methods Phil. I have on good authority your beers are very good.

Just over the years Ive found around the 8 - 9 days at the correct Ale temp they're good to go. Probably no harm leaving longer but if its not necessary dont. You get to drink your beers quicker.

Now lagers may be a different kettle of fish. Probably do need that extra bit in the fermenter.

[Classic Brewing Co]

8 minutes ago, Pale Man said:

Not having a go at your methods Phil. I have on good authority your beers are very good.

Just over the years Ive found around the 8 - 9 days at the correct Ale temp they're good to go. Probably no harm leaving longer but if its not necessary dont. You get to drink your beers quicker.

Now lagers may be a different kettle of fish. Probably do need that extra bit in the fermenter.

Yep, all good mate  

[Triple B Brewing]

13 minutes ago, Pale Man said:

Now lagers may be a different kettle of fish. Probably do need that extra bit in the fermenter.

Yep, for lagers (and colder ferments) a Diacetyl Rest is really important IMO

[Back Brewing]

2 hours ago, Moul I mean said:

Waiting, and anticipation rising. Sunday bottling hopefully, makes 14 days in FV. Two + weeks the till bottles go I fridge.

On the topic of fridges, nice tie in there, have an opportunity for a fridge for nothing, large, it works etc, as I live in a very hot climate at the moment, 45 last week on some days, would a temp controller to be bought plus the fridge be beneficial. 
 

probably over stepping since this will be the first of hopefully many from now on. 

 

thoughts?

I have only recently started temp controlling  about 5 brews and I only have the inkbird the one @Oldbloke suggested is good and that works a treat.

I don't put the heat belt around the fermenter I left a shelf in the door up the top and it just hangs from there this way when it comes on it heats the air up inside the fridge. If you can't do that open it up and have it laying on the shelf at the bottom of the fermenter 

 

[Mackbrew]

Yes, valuable lesson for me too was leaving it in the FV till at least day 10.

I’m also managing temperature as best I can in the house, with a keen eye on the weather forecasts.

But I’m on the hunt for temperature control options. Actually, I’m jealous about people being gifted fridges. I have to deal with people like Steptoe.

[Back Brewing]

3 minutes ago, Mackbrew said:

Yes, valuable lesson for me too was leaving it in the FV till at least day 10.

I’m also managing temperature as best I can in the house, with a keen eye on the weather forecasts.

But I’m on the hunt for temperature control options. Actually, I’m jealous about people being gifted fridges. I have to deal with people like Steptoe.

Mate I got mine off of market place was asking $200 I grabbed it for $50

[Oldbloke]

2 hours ago, Moul I mean said:

Pale Man, newbie here:) , Cold crash? Ok will do research on that , 

All that is,  is last 2 or 3 days before bottling is you chill the beer still in FV,  down to say,  around 3-4 c I think. It helps clear the beer. But you need yeast in the bottle for secondary fermentation. I did it twice, then said to myself,,,,why bother. 

 

I think its more for kegs, they are gassed.

[Back Brewing]

4 minutes ago, Oldbloke said:

All that is,  is last 2 or 3 days before bottling is you chill the beer still in FV,  down to say,  around 3-4 c I think. It helps clear the beer. But you need yeast in the bottle for secondary fermentation. I did it twice, then said to myself,,,,why bother. 

 

I think its more for kegs, they are gassed.

@Oldbloke all you need to do us prime the bottle as normal the yeast will wake up and find the priming sugar/dextrose and carbonate the beer when they are conditioning

Edited December 14, 2023 by Back Brewing

[Oldbloke]

2 hours ago, Back Brewing said:

I have only recently started temp controlling  about 5 brews and I only have the inkbird the one @Oldbloke suggested is good and that works a treat.

I don't put the heat belt around the fermenter I left a shelf in the door up the top and it just hangs from there this way when it comes on it heats the air up inside the fridge. If you can't do that open it up and have it laying on the shelf at the bottom of the fermenter 

 

  I still use a 75w incandescent globe.  Almost any 240v heat source will work. Just don't start a fire.   that would not be cool.

[Oldbloke]

I've never seen the point of cold crashing.

If aged in a bottle they clear up anyway.   I mean if it's good enough for Coopers. 

 

And some like to roll a bottle before drinking. 

 

Horses for courses I guess.

[Oldbloke]

2 hours ago, Mackbrew said:

Yes, valuable lesson for me too was leaving it in the FV till at least day 10.

I’m also managing temperature as best I can in the house, with a keen eye on the weather forecasts.

But I’m on the hunt for temperature control options. Actually, I’m jealous about people being gifted fridges. I have to deal with people like Steptoe.

I brewed like that for 30yrs. Depends where you live too. Have always and still brew in a colour bond garage.

Keeping it warm in winter is easy. Beating the heat is harder.  In summer, I would typically watch the weather forecast and brew avoiding high temps. If it got unexpectedly hot,  lugg the FV  into the house for a few days. It isn't the end of the world if it gets up to say, 27c anyway, it will still be ok.

 

Damp towels and a fan help.

[Aussiekraut]

9 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

I've never seen the point of cold crashing.

If aged in a bottle they clear up anyway.   I mean if it's good enough for Coopers. 

 

And some like to roll a bottle before drinking. 

 

Horses for courses I guess.

Yes, it will clear up anyway but during CC a lot more debris is dropped out, leading to less sediment in the bottles and by extension, fewer farts. 

Yes, some like to roll a bottle. On the other hand, some people thought WW1 was a pretty neat idea too  

Not "seeing the point" doesn't make it pointless. Methods change, Ingredients change, equipment changes, processes change, expectations change and so on. It is called progress.  I am pretty sure none of us would like drinking beer the way it was made in 1516. It would be interesting but probably the worst beer we've ever had. 

[Classic Brewing Co]

9 minutes ago, Aussiekraut said:

Yes, it will clear up anyway but during CC a lot more debris is dropped out, leading to less sediment in the bottles and by extension, fewer farts. 

Yes, some like to roll a bottle. On the other hand, some people thought WW1 was a pretty neat idea too  

Not "seeing the point" doesn't make it pointless. Methods change, Ingredients change, equipment changes, processes change, expectations change and so on. It is called progress.  I am pretty sure none of us would like drinking beer the way it was made in 1516. It would be interesting but probably the worst beer we've ever had. 

Everyone is always going to have a different opinion on almost everything, some who have been brewing for a while stick to their methods regardless of what others are doing & mostly ignore advancing technology & brewing methods.

I do agree with @Aussiekraut Cold Crashing does work although I don't always do it as I make mostly the Ales etc. but the last brew, now in the keg, I did.

I can taste a distinct difference in the overall clarity, clean taste & it's a Pale Ale.

On rolling the bottle, purely personal choice but I prefer to do it with the entire range of Coopers beers. 

I doubt very much if they would tell you to do it as well as being printed on the label if it didn't do anything.

I find the taste of the beer improves immensely.

https://coopers.com.au/roll-the-beer-unlock-the-flavour/

[ozdevil]

11 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

I've never seen the point of cold crashing.

If aged in a bottle they clear up anyway.   I mean if it's good enough for Coopers. 

 

And some like to roll a bottle before drinking. 

 

Horses for courses I guess.

once apon a time    we homebrewers never seen the point of  cleaning up  the yeast after fermentation and would bottle soon as we got the 2 readings the same    

some say try to maintain temp all the way through   some will say  add a dyacital rest  by increasing it to a higher temp  before cold crashing 

my last ferment  i brewed for about 14 days     with the brew starting at 18°c  for 5 days to control ester production then slowly raising the temp to 24°c fo a dyacital rest  before crashing down to 2°c ,  no i didnt need to do this , and would i bother to do this if i was starting out brewing  No i wouldnt.    but there is a point to it      but alot of people will say whats the points  dont see no real need of it.

i Agree  with Aussiekruat  post  and i am not disagreeing with you   becuase both methods work fine

 

[RDT2]

16 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

All that is,  is last 2 or 3 days before bottling is you chill the beer still in FV,  down to say,  around 3-4 c I think. It helps clear the beer. But you need yeast in the bottle for secondary fermentation. 

 

 

There will still be plenty of yeast after a cold crash to carbonate a bottle! I cold crashed a pilsner where i had hardly any sediment in the bottle and it carbonated fine! I think i cold crashed for a few weeks on that occasion as life got in way, 

[Moul I mean]

Speaking of sediment,? Just bottled my first batch, woohoo. 
 

In the bottom of FV large amount of , what looks likes the enhancer, which mustn’t have dissolved, is this normal. ?

Now cleanup and get ready for next batch, really like this idea, ( penny pinching lol) , of $30 for ingredients and approx 60 stubbies of beer compared to $160 for equivalent,, at only bottlo in my small outback town.

ps Just got pick up the fridge this week, and get a temp controller as suggested.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

 

[Oldbloke]

1 hour ago, RDT2 said:

There will still be plenty of yeast after a cold crash to carbonate a bottle! I cold crashed a pilsner where i had hardly any sediment in the bottle and it carbonated fine! I think i cold crashed for a few weeks on that occasion as life got in way, 

Yes, mine carbonated ok. Just not concerned about a small amount of sediment in the stubbies and can't be bothered.