pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 I also wonder if Cocoa Nibs (I have heaps) would go better with a Stout or Dark Ale? (Taking inspiration from the last recipe of the month I saw) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, UncleStavvy said: What have you decided for fermentables with the dark ale kits? I answered the question above (with the photo post) but forgot to include the question quote (oops) Edited May 12, 2020 by pilotsh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UncleStavvy Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, pilotsh said: I've attached what I have left at home at the moment. I was thinking of exchanging the Euro Larger because it says the brew temp is 13-15C: this will be impossible as I don't use a fridge for brewing. After seeing your mention of the English Bitter I will probably exchange the Euro Larger for another English Bitter. How much molasses do you use? I will probably have to buy more Maple Syrup if I add some to the English Bitter mk2 as well. I have 420g of Brew Enhancer 1 which I will probably divide between the four brews. Planning next four brews as: Dark Ale + 1kg BE3 (Can instructions) + 105g BE1 Dark Ale + 1kg BE3 (Can instructions) + 105g BE1 + Maple Syrup (not sure how much yet) English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 + Maple Syrup (not sure how much yet) Think the dark ale with only 500g of malt will be pretty weak beer. Save a trip and use the lager as a two can with the dark ale, just dont use the lager yeast to ferment I used 250g of molasses instead of 200g. Maple is lighter so you could probs use all of it, dunno? Edited May 12, 2020 by UncleStavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, UncleStavvy said: Think the dark ale with only 500g of malt will be pretty weak beer. Save a trip and use the lager as a two can with the dark ale, just dont use the lager yeast to ferment I wasn't planning on using the dry malt with the Dark Ale: Was intending to use it with the English Bitter. Just to clarify my info, the "Dark Ale" recommends 1kg of BE3, and the "English Bitter" can recommends 500g of Light Dry Malt. See attached (in the brown box on the can) Edited May 12, 2020 by pilotsh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 And since I won't use the European Lager I could also get another Stout to use with the BE3, and do the Regular Stout and then Maple Stout "one-two" comparison brews. That is six brews that will get me to July, and maybe I should buy some shares in the company that makes empty the PET bottle cases! (Planning on keeping many for Summer when I can't brew so can't re-use many empties.... !) Haha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 1 minute ago, pilotsh said: I should buy some shares in the company that makes empty the PET bottle cases! Oh, wait, I can't. I remember now Coopers is an independent, unlisted company! Happy to support the independent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UncleStavvy Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 Oops but still, 500g in the EB still only mild ABV. Like my brews stronger just sayin. I dont buy stout anymore because the govt excise on the higher ABV makes it to pricey. But I can brew my own stout just as tasty as Coopers and keep the money in my pocket where it belongs, my10cW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 33 minutes ago, UncleStavvy said: 500g in the EB still only mild ABV. Like my brews stronger just sayin. I know I am learning, because your comment made me check the label for the English Bitter and it said SG would be 1030. From the 3 brews I have done I already know that is low, in fact it would be the lowest SG I have used, and then I know it would be a low ABV at finish. I think the best beers have an SG of at least 1040! Ok, so here is the question, for anyone with experience with it: how much difference would 1kg of dry malt make to the SG over 500g? *gets out notepad* Edited May 12, 2020 by pilotsh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 500g malt increases the SG about 8 points. Which makes sense if a kit and 500g is 1.030 and with a full kg it's 1.038. Note that this is based on a 23 litre volume. It would vary if the volume is higher or lower. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UncleStavvy Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 Thanks Otto for the figure and thanks Stavvy for screen shoting the spread sheet. It made me go back to it and I am slowly getting to know it! I found out how you got 8 points difference Otto. That spreadsheet is a work of art! I can't imagine how long it has taken to put it together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 Tuesday 12th May: 68 hours (2.83 days) since pitch. Brew Temp: 20.9C SG: Not Tested. Comments: Krausen collapsing. Not worried this time, because I can still see bubbles rising and movement on the surface. But still, a second brew that had a Krausen Collar for no reason. Brew 001: First and second bottle ever entering the cold abyss for tasting on Thursday. Brew 002: All bottles now nice and firm and hanging out in the cupboard. Photo(s): 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 2 hours ago, pilotsh said: Thanks Otto for the figure and thanks Stavvy for screen shoting the spread sheet. It made me go back to it and I am slowly getting to know it! I found out how you got 8 points difference Otto. That spreadsheet is a work of art! I can't imagine how long it has taken to put it together! Good you are working out the Spready Pilot. You have got plenty of brews mapped out - and plenty of dried BE products - treat yourself at some stage to a tin of Liquid Malt... E.G. for the English Bitter - buy a Tin of Amber Liquid Malt Extract - and add that to your existing 5 hours ago, UncleStavvy said: English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 + 1.5kg of Amber Liquid Malt. And if you are worried about it being too strong - cut either of the dried products out.... For Example: English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 + 1.5kg of Amber Liquid Malt. English Bitter + 500g Light Dry Malt (Can Instructions) + 105g BE1 + 1.5kg of Amber Liquid Malt. Plug into the Spready to see impacts on ABV.... The Liquid Malt will give you a quantum leap forward in Beer Outcomes (unless you prefer a thinner beer with less body and less head and head retention... which some people actually do for sure.... Great Northern is like one of the biggest selling beers in Australia). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 6 minutes ago, pilotsh said: First and second bottle ever entering the cold abyss for tasting on Thursday. Good luck with them mate! And yeah good to put in the Fridge for a few days to help knock down the Sed and keep it down there during the pour... unless you are actually drinking a Hefeweizen or something akin to Coopers Sparkling which includes yeast. Cheers mate hope it turned out well. BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 9 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said: The Liquid Malt will give you a quantum leap forward in Beer Outcomes (unless you prefer a thinner beer with less body and less head and head retention... which some people actually do for sure.... Great Northern is like one of the biggest selling beers in Australia). I take your word for it: first I have to do two things- Taste my first brew that was made with BE2, and use up the rest of the dry stuff I have. I'll have probably tried Brew 2 and 3 as well by then and I will be like, "they're all watery, BB was right, ok lets buy a pallet of liquid malt as my new base-line fermentable!" As you know, I'll be sure to update with my thoughts here in my diary thread! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 1 minute ago, pilotsh said: ok lets buy a pallet of liquid malt Aaaah Mate I think you are doing a sterling job honestly.... your detailed note taking and process is really good... I guess where I am coming from is that I brewed a load before I bumped into this site... and reading from some of the old hands... and experimentation... helped me move forward... so am just hoping to pass some tips on that took me a while to pick up on. U r already ahead - I started with Coops + Sugar. Then went to Coops + Dex. Then only later Coops + BEs. And then Coops plus Pure LDME (Light Dry Malt Extract)... I bought like 20kg of LDME. Then I tried a 'make me own brew' with LDME and Hops and a small liquid malt input... and although it was quite drinkable and was beer... the head, head retention and mouthfeel as wanting. Then I made a brew with Coops + Liquid malt + Dry Malt and it was - wow - so much better. So I guess am hoping to pass some of those festive inside tips on. And in 23L I think you could easy use up all your dry stuff by doing something like the below: Coops Dark Ale (e.g.) + Tin Amber/Dark/Light your choice + HALF of a BE and end up with a beer that is not going to knock you to the floor ; ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said: Coops Dark Ale (e.g.) + Tin Amber/Dark/Light your choice + HALF of a BE and end up with a beer that is not going to knock you to the floor ; ) Just thinking out aloud: Is sugar they only thing to affect ABV? I know they malt barley to get it to have sugar in it too... (to get the end product of Whisky/distillate), but from what I can tell pure sugar/BE1/anything sweet only makes that beer watery with higher ABV (but imparts flavour), but too much malt would make the beer taste like breakfast cereal. I guess, as I will find out, it is about balancing it all out! Yay a new ground-based hobby! Edited May 12, 2020 by pilotsh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 @pilotsh Beaut - yes - balance is key. Get a hold of How to Brew by John Palmer - from Library or net or wherever... Good all round Beer Brewing Info. The First Edition is available on the Web... http://www.howtobrew.com/ Malting - soak grain, baby plant coleoptile grow, produces enzymes that can break down complex carbs into shorter chain carbs, roast to stop plant growing - preserving enzymes and complex carbs. Longer roast - darker the malt - darker the brew i.e. light - amber - dark malt - different lengths/temps of malted grain roast. "Sugar" in general = sucrose from cane. Not ideal for brewing. Cidery flavours. Dex - 'sugar' from grain - better than cane but not ideal for brewing. Less cidery but way worse than malt i.e. fermentable sugars extracted from malted grain via the mash. And Liquid Malt is better than Dry Malt. Dry Malt = the Spray Dried Product from mashing malted grain. Mashing malted grain works because it uses the enzymes (in the malted grain) at correct temp e.g. 66-68 Deg C to break down the complex carbs held in the seed as reserve to kick start the plant growth, into shorter chain fermentable sugars. (NOT "sugar" as in cane sugar). These fermentable sugars can then be transformed by yeast in the FV into alc + CO2 plus other products (metabolites) that contribute to beer flavour. And some of the non-fermentables from the mash process, also contribute significantly to taste, mouthfeel, head, head retention etc. And some of those are preserved better in Liquid Malt. And BEST delivered - when you do your own mashing at home for adjuncts in stove-top applications... OR... move into All Grain Brewing. You are starting at the best place. At the beginning : ) With Coops Kits (and hopefully soon.... adding in some Liquid Malt Extracts ha ha). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 58 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said: You are starting at the best place. At the beginning : ) I like this! 59 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said: With Coops Kits (and hopefully soon.... adding in some Liquid Malt Extracts ha ha). And this even more! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 I figured from the instructions or wherever it mentions those OG figures but also worked it out myself to confirm. It adds an extra 22g of sugars per litre, which works out at 8.2 points so basically 8. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goldcoast Crow Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 I would have to say from two rookie home brewers, one has way more time on his hnds, give me 10 yrs when the kids are outta school and I might try this more advanced stuff.... until then I'll continue to tinker with my brew house and slowly go thru the full range of extract kits..... next stop, coopers real ale..... good job tho pilot, you are really getting into the nitty gritty of it, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeB7 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 5 hours ago, Goldcoast Crow said: I would have to say from two rookie home brewers, one has way more time on his hnds, give me 10 yrs when the kids are outta school and I might try this more advanced stuff.... until then I'll continue to tinker with my brew house and slowly go thru the full range of extract kits..... next stop, coopers real ale..... good job tho pilot, you are really getting into the nitty gritty of it, As was said to me about 2 years ago when I first started picking the brains of this forum about what goes with what... "Welcome to the Rabbit Hole" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Wednesday 13th May: 95 hours (3.95 days) since pitch. Brew Temp: 20.6C linear decrease from yesterday. SG: Not Tested. Comments: Krausen collapsed. Not worried this time, because I can still see bubbles rising and movement on the surface. Photo(s): Nil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 Brew 003: Thursday 14th May: 109 hours (4.51 days) since pitch. Brew Temp: 20.2C linear decrease. SG: Not Tested. Comments: Nothing notable. Photo(s): Nil Brew 001: Taste test bottle 1: Aged Mr.Beer Bewitched Amber Ale Appearance: Deep, dark brown, almost like a porter/stout. Medium beads in head, which dissipates over about a minute. Nose: Peach, bubble gum. Palate: Peach, dried apricot, pineapple. Photo(s): 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotsh Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 (edited) Friday 15th May: 135 hours (5.63 days) since pitch. Brew Temp: 20.5C. SG: 1012 Appearance: Golden yellow, straw, a little orange. Very fizzy. Nose: Peach, bark. Woodiness. Palate: Stone fruit. Tastes like a young, green Coopers Pale Ale. Comments: As expected. Comparable to a bottle of Coopers Pale Ale, but I can tell it is still young. Photo(s): Edited May 15, 2020 by pilotsh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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