Daily diary of a virgin (first ever) home brew!

[Otto Von Blotto]

Yeah there was a debate about it last year or something as well

I usually just call it as how long it's been in there because there's no confusion, too many think for example day 3 means it's been in for 3 days, when it's actually only been in for 2 days, and is starting its third day.

Sometimes I'll use hours too, like my progress SG samples are taken about 72 hours after the yeast is pitched. 

[pilotsh]

Wednesday 22nd April: 303 hours (12.63 days) since pitch.

Brew Temp: 21.6C. Steady.

SG: 1014/1015

Colour: Same as two day ago. (A hazy, but not cloudy appearance. A medium goldy-orange brown).

Nose: Stronger apricot, stone fruit, now also peach and pineapple. Hints of treacle/molasses.

Palate/ Body: Same fine fizz as two days ago. No longer watery, now has body. Same light maltiness, mild tart fruits, apricot. Now starting to taste light a flat fruity ale!

Comments: Krausen 85% collapsed. SG dropped 0003 in two days. Will test again Friday.

Photo(s):

[pilotsh]

How do people measure the ABV of their home-brews? I've researched on here and found that adding 2 carbonation drops adds 0.5%ABV (is that correct?) to the bottling ABV, but can't see a thread listing how to work out the ABV at bottling!

[Journeyman]

56 minutes ago, pilotsh said:

How do people measure the ABV of their home-brews? I've researched on here and found that adding 2 carbonation drops adds 0.5%ABV (is that correct?) to the bottling ABV, but can't see a thread listing how to work out the ABV at bottling!

Look up ABV formula. There are several varieties but it's basically OG - FG x number. e.g. simple one is (OG - FG) / 7.64 so something like 60 - 10 = 50 then / 7.64 = 6.5 ABV

Edited April 22, 2020 by Journeyman

[pilotsh]

24 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

Look up ABV formula. There are several varieties

Since posting I have found a few, but I can't believe there are different ones. Surely only one of them can be the 'most' correct or 'most' accurate?!

[Otto Von Blotto]

I use OG-FG * 0.13 where I use the last two digits of the gravity numbers.

Example my latest brew kegged started at 1.048 and finished at 1.010 so a difference of 38. 

38 X .13 = 4.9. (no priming sugar added)

Sometimes I'll change the 0.13 up or down depending on the difference between the OG and FG. 

[Shamus O'Sean]

This is what Coopers says: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#FAQ_1_09

(OG – FG) / 7.46 = Approx % Alcohol By Volume.  If you convert the formula it is almost exactly the same as Otto's

It says: Note: allow for an extra 0.3% to 0.5% ABV due to the addition of Carbonation Drops (or sugar) in the bottle.  Therefore I add 0.4% to the calculation.

[pilotsh]

50 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

This is what Coopers says: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#FAQ_1_09

(OG – FG) / 7.46 = Approx % Alcohol By Volume.  If you convert the formula it is almost exactly the same as Otto's

It says: Note: allow for an extra 0.3% to 0.5% ABV due to the addition of Carbonation Drops (or sugar) in the bottle.  Therefore I add 0.4% to the calculation.

Ha! I found so much support from the forum itself I actually for forgot to go back to the FAQs, 

.... so/but If I was a billionaire or any commercial brewer that HAD to print the ABV on their bottles (or, I love numbers and science and would love to actually MEASURE something instead of guesstimating/calculating something ), what sort of $$$/equipment would I need to measure it accurately/actually!? For discussion!  And education !

 

Edited April 22, 2020 by pilotsh
included grape appreciaters

[Shamus O'Sean]

I can't say I know the actual formula.  However it would be based on Original Gravity and Final Gravity.  There might be some adjustments for temperature at various times through the process.

Commercial brewers have to get the ABV right.  A well known online shop had a problem with their Christmas advent beer calendar last year because one of the brews had issues and kept fermenting in the can.  Other than being over pressurised and the problems with that, the brew could not be supported for consumption because the ABV was off.

[Otto Von Blotto]

I got my formula from the British tax website so I'd expect it would be pretty accurate. It explains why the multiplying factor changes depending on the strength of the beer but I can't remember exactly what it is now. Something about the yeast using the sugar more for sustenance in lower OG worts and producing a lower percentage of alcohol per gram of sugar than it does in higher OG worts. I'd have to go and find it though to get the actual explanation. 

To measure it accurately I'd expect the equipment would be out of the price range for most home brewers. I don't disagree that it would be interesting but I can't justify that kind of expense when the calculation is good enough anyway.

Edited April 22, 2020 by Otto Von Blotto

[pilotsh]

Thursday 23rd April: 328 hours (13.66 days) since pitch.

Brew Temp: 21.6C. High of 21.8C, low of 21.4C.

SG: Not Tested. Will test tomorrow, expecting to be ready to bottle Saturday or Sunday.

Comments: Krausen almost completely gone.

Photo(s):

 

[Journeyman]

16 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

This is what Coopers says: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#FAQ_1_09

(OG – FG) / 7.46 = Approx % Alcohol By Volume.  If you convert the formula it is almost exactly the same as Otto's

It says: Note: allow for an extra 0.3% to 0.5% ABV due to the addition of Carbonation Drops (or sugar) in the bottle.  Therefore I add 0.4% to the calculation.

I used that initially but found it was consistently disagreeing with other calcs. e.g. take a diff of OG and FG of 50. Otto's formula gives 6.5, Coopers gives 6.7, the ones I find online all give ~6.5 as does (last 2 digits) (OG-FG)/7.64 = 6.5445 and (all digits) (OG-FG) x 131.25 = 6.5625.

I think someone at Coopers transposed the digits.

[pilotsh]

15 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I got my formula from the British tax website so I'd expect it would be pretty accurate. It explains why the multiplying factor changes depending on the strength of the beer but I can't remember exactly what it is now. Something about the yeast using the sugar more for sustenance in lower OG worts and producing a lower percentage of alcohol per gram of sugar than it does in higher OG worts. I'd have to go and find it though to get the actual explanation. 

To measure it accurately I'd expect the equipment would be out of the price range for most home brewers. I don't disagree that it would be interesting but I can't justify that kind of expense when the calculation is good enough anyway.

Thanks Otto. I found it, and will  use that. Paragraphs 30.2 and 30.3:

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/excise-notice-226-beer-duty/excise-notice-226-beer-duty--2#distillation-analysis

[Otto Von Blotto]

Excellent. My memory isn't as bad as I thought

[pilotsh]

Friday 24th April: 358 hours (14.92 days) since pitch.

Brew Temp: 22.6C. Increased from 21.6C in the morning due to a sunny day.

SG: 1014/1015 (Same as two days ago!)

Colour: No Change. (A hazy, but not cloudy appearance. A medium goldy-orange brown).

Nose: Strong apricot, stone fruit, now also peach and pineapple. Mild treacle/molasses.

Palate/ Body: I little less fizzy that two days ago. No longer watery, now has body. Same light maltiness, mild tart fruits, apricot. Finally tastes like a flat beer!

Comments: Krausen completely collapsed. Hurrah! Steady SG from two days ago, so FG is 1014/1015. Bottling tomorrow, after one last test in the morning! Anticipating a bottling ABV of 4.95%.

Photo(s):

 

[kmar92]

Christ, are you ever going to bottle this brew? I have been waiting for days to see it in bottles.

[pilotsh]

Lol.

The SG has only stopped dropping two days ago! Bottling tomorrow morning!

[Otto Von Blotto]

Pretty long time to reach FG. Should have been done in 7 days.

 

[Titan]

1 hour ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Pretty long time to reach FG. Should have been done in 7 days.

 

I was thinking the same. Could have had to brews done and dusted.

[pilotsh]

Everywhere I read said to wait until SG has stopped dropping? Maybe the yeast was dodgy?

oh, and speaking of yeast: if it all stays in the yeast slurry/trub at the bottom of the FV, and I only bottle the liquid, where does the yeast come from that will be in the bottle to eat the carbonation drops that will create secondary fermentation?

Edited April 24, 2020 by pilotsh
typo

[ben 10]

16 minutes ago, pilotsh said:

 

oh, and speaking of yeast: if it all stays in the yeast slurry/trub at the bottom of the FV, and I only bottle the liquid, where does the yeast come from that will be in the bottle to eat the carbonation drops that will create secondary fermentation?

There is enough left in suspension to carbonate the beer. Even the clearest beers will have enough there.

[Titan]

16 minutes ago, pilotsh said:

where does the yeast come from that will be in the bottle to eat the carbonation drops that will create secondary fermentation?

It wont all drop out, there will be plenty still in the beer to start again.

[Otto Von Blotto]

1 hour ago, pilotsh said:

Everywhere I read said to wait until SG has stopped dropping? Maybe the yeast was dodgy?

oh, and speaking of yeast: if it all stays in the yeast slurry/trub at the bottom of the FV, and I only bottle the liquid, where does the yeast come from that will be in the bottle to eat the carbonation drops that will create secondary fermentation?

Yes that's correct to wait for it to stop dropping, my point was that it should have stopped dropping days ago. Yeast being in a poor condition could certainly cause this sluggish fermentation though. 

[pilotsh]

7 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Yeast being in a poor condition could certainly cause this sluggish fermentation though. 

I was thinking that after I sprinkled the packet on the surface following the instructions like a noob. From now on I plan to rehydrate every yeast first!

Learning curve! 

[UncleStavvy]

13 minutes ago, pilotsh said:

I was thinking that after I sprinkled the packet on the surface following the instructions like a noob. From now on I plan to rehydrate every yeast first!

Learning curve! 

Just be fussy when you pick your tins off the shelf. Fresh yeast sachets work a treat when new and pitched at the right temp. I've done both now and my best pro tip is don't rehydrate the yeast before mixing your wort. Get the wort temp right first or you'll be frantically sanitising a larger container as your very active yeast bubbles over the top of your pyrex jug. Not speaking from experience mind....this happened to a another newb brewer I know