tja1980 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 W-34/70 is pretty forgiving, shit If I can make something drinkable with it then anyone can HAHAHA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Brewing me Pilsner on the borders of W-34/70, between 20-22 maybe 23, still bubbling away. Alot higher then I would of liked, but don't have a jacket for that fermenter Previously brewed with it and ice at 15-18 in summer. Tristan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yeah but there's drinkable and then there's excellent and amazingly good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Threw in a 40g dry hop of Waimea to the pale ale of the same name earlier tonight, will test SG again tomorrow and probably crash it Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 18 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: Yeah but there's drinkable and then there's excellent and amazingly good Should be ok, not bottling so off flavs shouldn't be noticeable, this is a pretty hoppy pils too still need to dry hop 100g in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Kegging makes no difference as to whether off flavors show up mate . If they're there, they're there regardless of the packaging, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Like I said drinkable hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie_m Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Got a mangrove Jack's raspberry and lime cider that is due for bottling on Saturday. Tastes pretty good just now but still need to add the essence that came with it. The next Brew also being started on Saturday is going to be Coopers European Lager or Canadian Blonde 500g light dry extract brought to boil in 5l water. 25G Hallertauer added to boil, then 25g Hersbrucker added 5 mins later (total 10 mins with hops) 1kg Brigalows extra malt brewing sugar that is just lying about in the house. 2 packages of W34-70 yeast because the reading i've done on here suggests using two packets for lager temps. Planning to pitch yeast at about 20 degrees and bring it down to 12 until fermentation is complete then cold crash for a week before bottling. If there is any other suggestions on what to do at this stage I'm open to them to get the best result i can Beersmith suggests 1.048 OG, 17.5 IBUs, 9.6 EBC and 4.8% ABV and sitting in a Munich Helles style.... Doesn't mean all that much to me yet but should stand me in good stead for future brews. I want to do another 2/3 of extract then start some grains and see the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 I'd think the IBU would be higher but that depends on the kit used too. Either way, the short boil of those two hops won't over bitter it or anything. You'll get a nice drop from it. With the fermentation you can either leave it at 12 the whole time or you can raise it to 18 in the second half and leave it up there until a few days after it hits FG. The latter is quicker, but the yeast will still do what it does during this temp rise if you leave it at 12, it will simply take longer to do it. You can crash it straight down, or ramp it down more slowly. I'm trying the latter option on my next one for the first time to see if it makes any noticeable difference, up until now I've just dropped them straight to 0 degrees. I'll be dropping it from 18 down to 10 (my ferment temp), and then 2 degrees per day until it reaches about 3-4 degrees, where it will sit for a week and a half or so. Further lagering will take place in the keg. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 On 7/8/2018 at 7:20 PM, Otto Von Blotto said: @Beerlust no, I pitch ales at about half the rate of lagers. The pitching rate into the starter itself is always in the range I quoted earlier, however. Millilitres collected is the same, but you have a smaller yeast count to begin with & pitch into a smaller starter with the ales? Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie_m Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 38 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I'd think the IBU would be higher but that depends on the kit used too. Either way, the short boil of those two hops won't over bitter it or anything. You'll get a nice drop from it. With the fermentation you can either leave it at 12 the whole time or you can raise it to 18 in the second half and leave it up there until a few days after it hits FG. The latter is quicker, but the yeast will still do what it does during this temp rise if you leave it at 12, it will simply take longer to do it. You can crash it straight down, or ramp it down more slowly. I'm trying the latter option on my next one for the first time to see if it makes any noticeable difference, up until now I've just dropped them straight to 0 degrees. I'll be dropping it from 18 down to 10 (my ferment temp), and then 2 degrees per day until it reaches about 3-4 degrees, where it will sit for a week and a half or so. Further lagering will take place in the keg. Cheers Kelsey I'll be bottling this brew do I need to lager it in the bottle? What would that entail? This is my first true lager so don't want to mess it up. So far I've just left bottles at room temp in a dark place which seems to be the norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 20 minutes ago, Beerlust said: Millilitres collected is the same, but you have a smaller yeast count to begin with & pitch into a smaller starter with the ales? Cheers, Lusty. It's all done by cell count mate. The ale starters are smaller, and the harvested cell count varies, but usually it's somewhere between 130-150bn cells in the 800mL harvest regardless of whether it's ale or lager yeast. The inoculation rate is what varies more. As long as it's between the 25-100 million cells per mL it's fine. Lager starters might be pitched around the 30-40 million mark, whereas ales might be around 60-80 million due to the smaller starter size. An example with ale yeast if I need 230bn for the batch I might make a 2.2L starter which nets around 370-380bn cells. 800mL is about 36.363.... % of that, and should contain around 135-140 billion cells, leaving around 240bn to pitch into the batch. With lager starters the 800mL is only about 22-23% of the total but because it's a larger volume starter there are more cells in it, so the harvested count is similar. 18 minutes ago, willie_m said: I'll be bottling this brew do I need to lager it in the bottle? What would that entail? This is my first true lager so don't want to mess it up. So far I've just left bottles at room temp in a dark place which seems to be the norm. I would if you can. It basically entails storing them cold for a couple of months. Obviously make sure they're carbonated first. This process drops out particulates and smooths out the flavour. Mine usually get 1.5-2 weeks cold in the fermenter, then anywhere from 3-6 further weeks cold in the keg before I drink them properly (periodic samples aside). By this stage they're bloody good. Definitely worth the wait if you have the means to keep them cold. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie_m Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 4 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I would if you can. It basically entails storing them cold for a couple of months. Obviously make sure they're carbonated first. This process drops out particulates and smooths out the flavour. Mine usually get 1.5-2 weeks cold in the fermenter, then anywhere from 3-6 further weeks cold in the keg before I drink them properly (periodic samples aside). By this stage they're bloody good. Definitely worth the wait if you have the means to keep them cold. Cheers Kelsey Kelsey thanks very much for this. That's exactly what i'm going to do. I've got a party on 8th September at my house so after a 2 week ferment/cold crash starting this saturday It's going to have 6 weeks in the bottle cold and hopefully produces something pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 You might want to give it more than two weeks total in the fermenter. Lagers do take a bit longer to ferment than ales. You'd be looking at three weeks including a week long cold crash before bottling. Meanwhile, I checked the SG on my Waimea pale ale again today and it's sitting at 1.012 and clearing up, so it's done. I'll drop it down tomorrow and keg next week. And then another batch of lager will be going in. I'll be chilling the cube for a few hours prior to pitching the yeast on this one to hopefully get the wort temp at or a little below my ferment temp. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#granted+brew Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 My krausen collar finally got a work out with my latest batch. Toucan #2 Cooper's Draught Cooper's Mexican 200g Dex 1 pkt kit yeast (o.s. coopers) 175mls washed slurry (o.s. kit yeast) Made to 25litres Krausen only a couple inches off the lid after 24 hrs, then beginning to drop this arvo, looking on track to raise my temp a couple degrees on Thursday night then maybe dry hop on Friday if I don't like the taste of the s.g. sample. Cheers, Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 I just took a gravity reading of my current Mosaic Amber Ale brew & I reckon it's done. 1.012 is consistent within the range this brew regularly finishes at. The yeast has destroyed the wort inside 3 days! It smells terrific (as usual). I'll add the dry hop in today at some point & leave it for another 3-4 days to allow the yeast to mop up & then check the reading again. If all is well, I'll look to begin cold crashing over the weekend. Given my last two brews I'm in a little shock as this is the fastest ferment I've had for a while! Cheers & good brewing, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Nice quick ferment there mate. I reckon mine would only ever ferment that quick if I pitched double the amount I usually pitch although they're usually there by 5 or 6 days so not exactly slow either. I dropped my Waimea pale ale down earlier, it had already begun dropping in temp due to the weather. It did reach 22C, then obviously the yeast finished up and it slowly dropped back to around 18C over the following 3-4 days. I didn't really see any point heating it back up so I just left it alone. It's currently at 13.9 on its way down to zero. I plan to keg it either next Wednesday or Thursday, and then the next German lager will be going in. I remember having a short discussion on another thread around the time I brewed this batch, about the cube hops potentially throwing grassy tones due to the wort not being fermented for about 2 or 3 weeks after it was brewed. I couldn't detect anything like this in the FG sample tasting, so it would seem with those hops at least it's not a problem. Will confirm when the beer is on tap though. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie_m Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 On 7/10/2018 at 1:31 PM, Otto Von Blotto said: You might want to give it more than two weeks total in the fermenter. Lagers do take a bit longer to ferment than ales. You'd be looking at three weeks including a week long cold crash before bottling. Meanwhile, I checked the SG on my Waimea pale ale again today and it's sitting at 1.012 and clearing up, so it's done. I'll drop it down tomorrow and keg next week. And then another batch of lager will be going in. I'll be chilling the cube for a few hours prior to pitching the yeast on this one to hopefully get the wort temp at or a little below my ferment temp. Cheers Kelsey sorry kelsey, last one on this as i'm brewing tonight after work. What temperature should my LDM and hop mixture be cooled to before being put in the wort? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 29 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: Nice quick ferment there mate. I reckon mine would only ever ferment that quick if I pitched double the amount I usually pitch although they're usually there by 5 or 6 days so not exactly slow either. Yeah I'm guessing it was a big volume pitch. No idea how many cells. The yeast was harvested from some slurry I collected almost a year ago (last time I brewed this beer) that was pitched into a 2 litre starter, fermented out, then stored for a short while before pitching into the main brew. I'm just wrapped the 1318 yeast was still viable. I'll harvest some from this batch too. Good luck with the Waimea Pale Ale. I did a single hop pale with it back in 2015. My comments were "Waimea seemed better on the nose than on the palate. Better to be mixed with other hops." Cheers & hope the brew turns out nice for you. Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 A 2 litre starter may have given more cells than needed, even though the yeast was a year old. Still, not really a problem unless you go way too high which I doubt happened. Thanks mate, the FG sample tasted good, couldn't really get an idea of the aroma from it though. It should be on tap in the next few weeks. 1 hour ago, willie_m said: sorry kelsey, last one on this as i'm brewing tonight after work. What temperature should my LDM and hop mixture be cooled to before being put in the wort? Depends on your water temp for the rest of the batch volume. You basically just want the whole volume around 15-16 degrees. You could cool the mixture to room temperature or a bit below. Should work out alright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Will do my first dry hop addition of 50g of Hallertau Mittlefrueh tomorrow, fermentation is slowing up but I'll still leave it for another two weeks before I rack it off and cold crash it, hopefully it will taste good. Saturday i'll be starting two more brews a Australian Pale Ale and starting on a Saspy, I broke my thermometer last week and the brew shop was closed for stocktack so that put a dampener on my brew weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 6 minutes ago, tja1980 said: Will do my first dry hop addition of 50g of Hallertau Mittlefrueh tomorrow, fermentation is slowing up but I'll still leave it for another two weeks before I rack it off and cold crash it, hopefully it will taste good. Saturday i'll be starting two more brews a Australian Pale Ale and starting on a Saspy, I broke my thermometer last week and the brew shop was closed for stocktack so that put a dampener on my brew weekend Currently brewing a Capitals Pilsner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 Mate just cold crash it in the fermenter, no need or point racking it off to another vessel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja1980 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Was half thinking about dry hopping in the tub then rack it to me fermentersaurus with the preasure kit to start clearing up and carb up at the same time while it cold crashes, yeah will just keep it in this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie_m Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 On 7/10/2018 at 10:00 AM, willie_m said: Got a mangrove Jack's raspberry and lime cider that is due for bottling on Saturday. Tastes pretty good just now but still need to add the essence that came with it. The next Brew also being started on Saturday is going to be Coopers European Lager or Canadian Blonde 500g light dry extract brought to boil in 5l water. 25G Hallertauer added to boil, then 25g Hersbrucker added 5 mins later (total 10 mins with hops) 1kg Brigalows extra malt brewing sugar that is just lying about in the house. 2 packages of W34-70 yeast because the reading i've done on here suggests using two packets for lager temps. Planning to pitch yeast at about 20 degrees and bring it down to 12 until fermentation is complete then cold crash for a week before bottling. If there is any other suggestions on what to do at this stage I'm open to them to get the best result i can Beersmith suggests 1.048 OG, 17.5 IBUs, 9.6 EBC and 4.8% ABV and sitting in a Munich Helles style.... Doesn't mean all that much to me yet but should stand me in good stead for future brews. I want to do another 2/3 of extract then start some grains and see the difference. Took a photo this morning roughly 30 hours after pitching the yeast. I'd seen it recommended using insulation foam (or in this case the bottom of a stubby holder) stuck to the side of the FV for better temperature control and it makes a huge difference. Got a bit of krausen going on so seems to be heading in the right direction. I definitely need a bigger pot as the 5l of water plus the sugar was at the brim of the pot and boiled over a little. Only small addition was I had 13/14g of styrian goldings left lying in the fridge so threw that in for the 5min boil too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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