Cold Crashing

[Lynchy17]

Hello all,

Once fermentation is complete I usually keg my beer straight away, purge it with some c02 then wait at room temp until I have space in the kegerator to carbonate.

 

I am interested in cold crashing brews to see the difference. As I have limited space in my kegerator, I was wondering if I can cold crash my beer for 2 days in the kegerator then remove it and leave it at room temp for a couple of weeks before it’s its turn in the fridge to carbonate and drink?

[jamiek86]

cold crashing your beer for between 3 days to a week will improve the sediment and clarity by heaps.  the one I didn't cold crash had that haziness and empty keg looked like was half full of mud. still tasted ok but yeast gives me reflux cold crashing is better. yes leaving at room temp until have room is fine. @Shamus O'Sean some even add sugar to keg so it already carbonated when add to.keggerator. unless brewing a true lager putb it straight in.

[Otto Von Blotto]

That's one way although it doesn't seem like there's much point given it will basically be cold crashed once it sits on tap anyway, and a couple of days isn't very long given it takes about a day just to drop the temp down.

Another way if you're not needing the fermenter too urgently, and ferment in a fridge, is to cold crash it in the fermenter for about a week before transferring it to a keg. This reduces the amount of sediment that gets transferred as it drops out in the fermenter.

It may or may not improve clarity on its own, I never got much clarity improvement from cold crashing alone before I started using clearing agents, but experiences vary. I did however get a lot less sediment in the bottles, and now with kegs it's just a light dusting in the bottom as well. 

Edited July 5, 2021 by Otto Von Blotto

[Marty_G]

I am now a huge advocate of cold crashing.  If you can get the FV to about 1c or a tad less for 4 day minimum you will see a significant reduction in sediment and an improvement in clarity.  If you use clearing agents as Otto suggests you will see very clear beer.  The thing you will notice with your kegs is the almost total loss of the trub layer on the bottom of the keg. 

I have tried several ways to reduce the sediment load in my kegs but have found crashing the best and easiest way.     

Like most things to do with brewing it has been trial and error that has got me to this point but I have found buying an old freezer and using that as a fermentation chamber the best way to go as they will get you to under 1c and hold it more efficiently than a fridge.    I like chest freezers as I pressure ferment so can transfer under pressure but a mate has an upright with moveable shelves he uses because he needs gravity to transfer his beer.   After it has been at 1c for  a couple of days I add gelatin and "Biofine Clear" to improve the clarity.  Gelatin will help remove suspended particles and "Biofine Clear" will help with chill haze. 

Good thing about a second freezer is you can also have overflow kegs that are conditioning in there and drink from those with a party tap to sample their progress.  

Naturally that all depends on space.  Oh if you hold out you can pick up chest freezers for about $50 on GumTree or FB MarketPlace.  At times I make Keezers as a side project and have picked up freezers from Free to $150 depending on size, age and condition. 

 

[Malter White]

10 hours ago, Lynchy17 said:

Hello all,

Once fermentation is complete I usually keg my beer straight away, purge it with some c02 then wait at room temp until I have space in the kegerator to carbonate.

 

I am interested in cold crashing brews to see the difference. As I have limited space in my kegerator, I was wondering if I can cold crash my beer for 2 days in the kegerator then remove it and leave it at room temp for a couple of weeks before it’s its turn in the fridge to carbonate and drink?

Do you mean you want to cold crash your kegs? While I'm not a kegger I doubt there'd be any benefit in that. Wouldn't any sediment get disturbed by the motion created during pours? Whereas I can see you'd achieve clearer beer if you cold crashed your fermenting vessel, then filled your kegs.

[Marty_G]

1 hour ago, MUZZY said:

Do you mean you want to cold crash your kegs? While I'm not a kegger I doubt there'd be any benefit in that. Wouldn't any sediment get disturbed by the motion created during pours? Whereas I can see you'd achieve clearer beer if you cold crashed your fermenting vessel, then filled your kegs.

That is 100% correct.   Cold crashing in kegs get a good trub layer in the keg and the 1st few pours can be be all sediment but will clear after that. Also because of the trub layer if you move the keg it get resuspended  a tad.  Best practice is to cold crash before kegging.   I know this because I have been there and done that.  At one stage I was cold crashing in the keg and filtering my kegs and was shocked at the amount of sediment that was still in my kegged beer. Now I cold crash in the FV as I described above and have  as close to zero sediment as I can get.  As Otto described it is a fine sparse  dusting on the bottom of the keg.  Where as before it was a layer a few millimetres in thickness. 

   

[Tricky Micky]

2 hours ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

After it has been at 1c for  a couple of days I add gelatin and "Biofine Clear" to improve the clarity.  Gelatin will help remove suspended particles and "Biofine Clear" will help with chill haze. 

Hey Marty, I do quite a few Lagers and use gelatin with a cold crash but haven't used Biofine Clear before. 

In your opinion does this extra addition make a huge difference to the clarity of the beer.

Here's a link to the description of what can be expected with the use of Biofine Clear - I have no idea about the science of it or how accurate this info is but it'd be great to get some feed back from someone who's been using hands on and seen the effect it's had on the beer.

TIA Mick.

 

 

https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/biofine-clear-4-oz-approx-120ml

Biofine Clear is a purified colloidal solution of silicic acid (SiO2) in water that has been specially formulated for the rapid sedimentation of yeast and other haze forming particles in beer.

A clarifier that has received attention on The Brewing Network and is used by several commercial brewers. While beers cloud for different reasons and there is not one silver bullet to clear all beers, Biofine has proven effective in most situations. It is an easy way to help ensure clarity without having to filter.

Biofine strips out all remaining yeast in 24-48 hours! Speeds up the aging and clarify process by 2-3 weeks! You'll find a layer of darker yeast that settles on top of your yeast bed in your fermenter. This layer is thicker than normal and acts as a blanket. This settling process avoids your yeast from being disturbed as you move your carboy. Biofine brings out maltiness and accentuates esters produced by yeast.

Dosage Rates: 1/4 Tbsp (3 ml or 1/10oz) to as much as 2 Tbsp (30 ml or 1 fluid oz.) per 20 litre batch of beer.

Some beer styles don't react with certain dose rates. You may have to add more to have an effect. We recommend starting small and increasing your dosage rates once per day until clarification takes place.

[Otto Von Blotto]

 I gave up on biofine after a couple of batches. It did clear the beer but I noticed a weird layer of yeast above the actual trub at the bottom of the fermenter, probably 3-5cm deep and it just wouldn't drop and compact like it does when I use isinglass, or even nothing at all, so it ended up in the keg anyway. Maybe I used too much biofine or didn't leave it long enough I don't know, but I soon reverted back to my usual isinglass and polyclar regime. 

I can't get my usual powdered isinglass at the moment so I might have to splurge on some liquid stuff. Or see how I go over these first couple of batches just using polyclar for chill haze and time for the yeast. 

[Tricky Micky]

4 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

 I gave up on biofine after a couple of batches. It did clear the beer but I noticed a weird layer of yeast above the actual trub at the bottom of the fermenter, probably 3-5cm deep and it just wouldn't drop and compact like it does when I use isinglass, or even nothing at all, so it ended up in the keg anyway. Maybe I used too much biofine or didn't leave it long enough I don't know, but I soon reverted back to my usual isinglass and polyclar regime. 

I can't get my usual powdered isinglass at the moment so I might have to splurge on some liquid stuff. Or see how I go over these first couple of batches just using polyclar for chill haze and time for the yeast. 

Thanks for the info OVB.  I bulk prime my brews in the Primary FV's and what I've come to discover is no matter how careful I am while stirring the sugar mix into the wort I stir up some of the material that's still suspended and hasn't made it's way to the bottom of the FV.  Just to be clear (PTP) I do not disturb the trub. I cold crash at approx 1 degree C and can't get below that number with the fridge I've got and usually do this for about 4-6 days. I use 1 teaspoon of Gelatin per 23 liters of volume around day 2.  So I'm wondering if there is something else I might consider to try and force the remaining material to the bottom. I'm almost certain it's coming from the top of the fermenter and the ridge just above the Coopers FV after I've stirred it up mixing in the sugar.  This is really only applicable for my lagers.

[Marty_G]

3 hours ago, Mickep said:

Hey Marty, I do quite a few Lagers and use gelatin with a cold crash but haven't used Biofine Clear before. 

I have had no issue with it at all. I use it to get rid of chill haze and it seems to work.  I can't comment on the problem Otto has had or if I have had it. I pressure ferment in SS and close transfer. So once the FV is sealed I only see the beer in the transfer line when filling the keg and then in the glass. In the glass it looks great. 

 

The attached pic is of an English Bitter I just pulled. The haze is condensation on the glass. I kid you not that is the 1st beer out of the keg. No sediment. That was grain 16 days ago.  It was 8 days till 2days stable. Then cold crashed  to 0.9c. Gelatin and BioFine added to FV 3 days after the crash started then kegged on Sunday so 6 days cold crash. Now been sitting in Keezer at ~2c since Sunday.    

The other pic is a few minutes later after I had a couple of sips. 

[Tricky Micky]

33 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

4 hours ago, Mickep said:

Hey Marty, I do quite a few Lagers and use gelatin with a cold crash but haven't used Biofine Clear before. 

I have had no issue with it at all. I use it to get rid of chill haze and it seems to work.  I can't comment on the problem Otto has had or if I have had it. I pressure ferment in SS and close transfer. So once the FV is sealed I only see the beer in the transfer line when filling the keg and then in the glass. In the glass it looks great. 

 

The attached pic is of an English Bitter I just pulled. The haze is condensation on the glass. I kid you not that is the 1st beer out of the keg. No sediment. That was grain 16 days ago.  It was 8 days till 2days stable. Then cold crashed  to 0.9c. Gelatin and BioFine added to FV 3 days after the crash started then kegged on Sunday so 6 days cold crash. Now been sitting in Keezer at ~2c since Sunday.    

The other pic is a few minutes later after I had a couple of sips. 

Mate, the beer looks unbelievably clear.  I'll have a crack at the Biofine Clear as well as the gelatin. I'll extend my CC's by a couple of days too. I'm still using PET's 740ml bottles though. Same principal I'm guessing. Thanks for the info and sharing your photos of your beautiful looking drop. 

[Marty_G]

2 minutes ago, Mickep said:

Thanks for the info and sharing your photos of your beautiful looking drop. 

Tasted good too. Would be really smashable now but will be a whole lot better with a couple of week keg conditioning.  

[Otto Von Blotto]

3 hours ago, Mickep said:

Thanks for the info OVB.  I bulk prime my brews in the Primary FV's and what I've come to discover is no matter how careful I am while stirring the sugar mix into the wort I stir up some of the material that's still suspended and hasn't made it's way to the bottom of the FV.  Just to be clear (PTP) I do not disturb the trub. I cold crash at approx 1 degree C and can't get below that number with the fridge I've got and usually do this for about 4-6 days. I use 1 teaspoon of Gelatin per 23 liters of volume around day 2.  So I'm wondering if there is something else I might consider to try and force the remaining material to the bottom. I'm almost certain it's coming from the top of the fermenter and the ridge just above the Coopers FV after I've stirred it up mixing in the sugar.  This is really only applicable for my lagers.

Could be the gelatine itself as well. I used it a few times and wound up with a rather easily disturbed sediment from it. When I started using isinglass to drop yeast out it was the complete opposite, nice and compact and stayed there when I moved the fermenter to fill a keg. But others haven't had those issues so I suppose it's different for different people. I probably stuffed up how to use it. 

Either way my first poured beers from a keg are usually pretty much the same as Marty's there in terms of clarity. Crashing most of the yeast out in the fermenter is definitely the way to go, whichever method you use. 

[Journeyman]

4 hours ago, Mickep said:

I bulk prime my brews in the Primary FV's and what I've come to discover is no matter how careful I am while stirring the sugar mix into the wort I stir up some of the material that's still suspended and hasn't made it's way to the bottom of the FV

You could try using the method I use for gelatin. I have a jar with metal lid. The lid has multiple nail holes in it on one half and a larger hole in the other half. So I get a watering can effect across the entire top of the brew and have no need to stir anything. 

[Journeyman]

25 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Could be the gelatine itself as well. I used it a few times and wound up with a rather easily disturbed sediment from it. When I started using isinglass to drop yeast out it was the complete opposite, nice and compact and stayed there when I moved the fermenter to fill a keg.

I found when I went to clean the FV I have to stir up the trub. Long story short, the dogs liked to eat the grass I disposed of the contents on and then started having breathing issues so I have to use the sink. The trub was 'compact' enough it came out in a cake and I had to clean the walls, glass door area, washing machine and myself as it splashed into the sink.  

[Marty_G]

1 hour ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Either way my first poured beers from a keg are usually pretty much the same as Marty's there in terms of clarity. Crashing most of the yeast out in the fermenter is definitely the way to go, whichever method you use. 

Yep, if I ever come across Isinglass will give it a go. Will be interesting to see how it goes.

@MickepI think one huge advantage is I usually brew double batches.  So ferment around 43 litres in my 50litre pressure fermenter which is an old Rod Mytton keg.  I use floating did tubes in them so when I fin them the sediment settles to the bottom then when I transfer I draw from just below the surface. I fill two cornies then leave the dregs.   After filling I harvest the yeast. I give the FV a good swirl then fill two sample jars with the yeast filled dregs. Works a treat

 

The pics are my 50litre FV and my 25 litre FV, has a Pacific Pale Ale fermenting, which is also a keg but it has wider opening.  Both openings are large enough from me to get the gurney or my arm into so I can give a bit of a scrub and wash out after use.  Also very easy to take samples and do closed transfers of clearing agents,  hop teas rather than dry hops and take samples from.  It is a very cost effective way of getting into pressure fermentation.    Sorry if I digress.   

[iBooz2]

2 hours ago, Journeyman said:

You could try using the method I use for gelatin. I have a jar with metal lid. The lid has multiple nail holes in it on one half and a larger hole in the other half. So I get a watering can effect across the entire top of the brew and have no need to stir anything. 

Get one of these from Woolies.  If you want to use gelatin mix.

Edited July 6, 2021 by iBooz2

[iBooz2]

2 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Either way my first poured beers from a keg are usually pretty much the same as Marty's there in terms of clarity. Crashing most of the yeast out in the fermenter is definitely the way to go, whichever method you use. 

+ 1

I do not use gelatin any more and have not use isinglass for nearly 40 years.  I find a proper cold crash is all my beers need to clear up beautifully.  I CC for min 7 days as that's the timetable that suits me, I am patient.  I can drink my first pour from any of my kegs and there would not be a tablespoon of trub left in the kegs when emptied and cleaning routine started.

[iBooz2]

4 hours ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

 

@ozdevil You awake?

[ozdevil]

38 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

@ozdevil You awake?

havent been awake for days still trying to recover from my tassie trip

but hey  looks a good drop in a  dirty beer glass lmao 

seen much worse though..

my father on friday ordered a great northern  to drink at the pub

brought it back to the table we was sitting at and i said did you order a  creamy soda to drink,  no son he said its great northen

i said to him dont even drink it take it back the amount of co2 stuck to side of glass 

he said it be ok son  

well i said your body

he took 2 mouth fulls and said thats terrible  and tastes dirty

i said i warned you..

i wish i had of taken a pic of the glass for pub it should be beer clean...

[ben 10]

4 hours ago, Mickep said:

Mate, the beer looks unbelievably clear. 

Still has chill haze though.

22 hours ago, jamiek86 said:

yeast gives me reflux

There is still plenty of suspended yeast in a cold conditioned beer, if there wasn't a cold conditioned beer would not carbonate in the bottle.

[iBooz2]

14 minutes ago, ozdevil said:

havent been awake for days still trying to recover from my tassie trip

You are forgiven.  After all its your ??th Birthday and all Happy Birthday again.  Cheers

[ozdevil]

7 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

You are forgiven.  After all its your ??th Birthday and all Happy Birthday again.  Cheers

it was my 50th  but hey who is counting

[iBooz2]

I have had one of these beer filtering systems for months and still have not used it.  Maybe next pressure ferment will give it a go and see what the difference is.

[iBooz2]

1 minute ago, ozdevil said:

it was my 50th  but hey who is counting

I did not want to say, but you have now let the devil outta the bag - OLD BOY.