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Marty_G last won the day on November 17 2020

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  1. I have always been hopeless at describing taste. However, my wife is outstanding. We have been avid collectors of wine for the guts of 30 years. We have a pretty good set up with over 400 bottles in our cellar. We only collect vintages and age then till they are ready to drink. I know what is good and she pulls the palate apart and tells me what the flavours are. It works really well However, once I really got into craft beer I had to learn the flavour as my wife does not drink beer. It has taken a while but now I read the blurb about the beer I now know the flavours some hops impart so now I am OK now. Still not great but getting better. Huge improvement came when I went AG. From very early I made my own recipes and started to get the hang of the specialty malt and hop flavours. I suppose what I am getting to is over time you will improve which was a good bit of advise I got from this forum a few years ago.
  2. Yep, I use it often. It is a ripper of a yeast. I goes off like a "frog in a sock". I use it for all the non traditional lagers I make so things like Aussie Lager, US and Asian lagers, NZ Pilsners and also for some of my Pacific Ales where I wan't the hops to pop and have a crisp finish. I highly recommend it. I have a good Fat Yak inspire recipe which I used M54 on and I think it one of the best beers I make. The optimum range is 18-20c I use it at 22c @15psi. I general make a big stater and have had it fermenting within 3 hours of pitch. Also used BRY-97 which is West Coast Ale yeast. Love the stuff it is a great yeast. Makes the hops pop and the next brew I will use some San Diego Super Yeast to see how it goes.
  3. Yep, lower ABV and lower FG so you have a drier beer. So use less sugars in the brew and an enzyme to dry it so there are less sugars in the final product. You can still have very tasty lower ABV beers you can have a mix of malt driven flavours by using specialty grains and make then a bit hoppier.
  4. +1 for what AussieKraut said. You can do either but personally I carbonate while it is lagering. If you dont want to do that. Put about 30psi in the keg and leave it then just add to it at serving pressure every week. Also if possible best to lager cold.
  5. I don't have a RAPT but did have an iSpindle and it was a waster of good money. I brew in SS and the iSpindle did not work. So bought a repeater to boost the signal and that did not pick up the signal. So bought new batteries as the voltage was down a bit and still did not work. All was good when using a plastic FV but I have only done one brew in plastic in the last 3years and it was the one to test the iSpindle. My verdict is they are a waste of money for those who use more contemporary methods of ferment like pressure in a SS FV.
  6. The wife and I are spending the week at Coolangatta so will be trying a few different beers. Right now tasting a Hope Brewery NEIPA. First impression is the bitterness. Not like a beer bitterness at all. More the taste of quinine like in bitter lemon. The hop character is stone fruit and citrus hence the bitter lemon flavour. I suppose it is an acquired taste. Whether I want to acquire it is different thing. At $8 a can I will pass on another one. No doubt would be better on tap and fresh.
  7. Mine goes on my lawn and you can see where I have emptied the FV green as.
  8. That will take forever to use. PoR is used in very small quantities in Aussie style beers. Many recipes will only need 20g max.
  9. @Classic Brewing Co I have come to this mill conversation a bit late but I would like to add that I have worked at the LHBS on Saturdays for over a year now and I am surprised by how few brewers mill their own grain. Those that do will buy a bag of their preferred base and when they are making a brew just come in and buy the specialties they need for the recipe. Some of the guys just phone the recipe in advance so we can have it ready when they come in. Those that don't do that are the ones who like to come in and have a chat while we do it. We cater mostly for fresh brews with 50 grains and about the same number of hops and yeasts. It is a great set up. I have got to meet loads of very good brewers and picked up a lot of small tips.
  10. @Aussiekraut the only thing I can add is: are you sure of the volumes you used? The few times I overshot I found the settings in my software had changed. It was a pain as I was overshooting and coming up short on the final volume. Was an easy fix once I found the glitch in the matrix. I have had discussions with brewers who get crazy efficiency from their systems. One guy gets around 90% constantly. He has an "All in one " like yourself. He reports crazy figures. Sometimes I think he must be pulling my leg but he is adamant that he can get around 90% regularly. Where I am pretty solid at ~75%.
  11. Maybe but unlikely. If it was due to storage all should blow.
  12. Is your recipe around for that? I have done an S&W inspired brew a few times. Pretty easy recipe really and ends up tasing great. My recipe is 66% American 2 row and 34% Wheat malt. A 30 minute boil with a 15 minute addition for 14IBU. A 5 minute for 7 IBU. Then another addition at flame out. Then whirlpooled for 20minutes at under 80c. If you want a 50g dry hop can be done. All additions are galaxy. I made the schedule so the hot side additions were the same size @ 20g. I have done both a dry hoped and non dry hop version and both great. I prefer the non dry hopped as it is more taste and aroma stable for my drinking habits.
  13. @Aussiekraut agree with Greeny it is W34/70 and their American Ale is US05.
  14. Not if it has fermented with a bacteria or wild yeast. Those buggers do not improve. The sourness is a giveaway that is has been contaminated. But yes under normal circumstances they should continue to condition after packaging.
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