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Keeping the right temp


jamiea83

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2 hours ago, Mark D Pirate said:

One thing worth considering is how hard a fridge will have to work in a shed that's extremely hot,  a newer ( more expensive)  fridge will use less energy than a hard rubbish roadside special in  50 ° ambient shed temps 

Thanks mark didnt really think of it that way.

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Hi Jamie and welcome,

I'm a newbie and my first brew went well (using the Coopers kit but with an English Bitter tin instead of the supplied larger) and all I used to keep the temperature down was a towel and ice blocks, as suggested on here by others.

I live in FNQ, Cairns, and the temps at the time (July) were very similar to those you have quoted. After I got the towel and ice going the FV maintained a temperature of sound 19C. 

I've just bottled my second brew. For that I had found a secondhand fridge ($80) and purchased an Inkbird ($50), not just for ease but mainly because it's much warmer up here now. The Inkbird is great, but if I could do it again I'd spend the extra $20 and buy the Wifi version, love a graph and app!

As mentioned, spending the cash early on should only be done if you feel that home brewing is for you.

So far, by my calculations (love spreadsheets),  I should recouped my costs after my fourth brew,  Averaging 20L/brew. Thats after buying the fridge, Inkbird, extra bottles and various amount of ingredients for each brew - Hops, Malt, Sugars, Kits..etc.

I usually spend around $50-$55 on a carton of beer, my fourth brew should work out under that, and reducing thereafter... Unless the equipment list grows... HAHAHAH! 🍺

 

Good luck and happy brewing.

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1 hour ago, Abbot-67 said:

Hi Jamie and welcome,

I'm a newbie and my first brew went well (using the Coopers kit but with an English Bitter tin instead of the supplied larger) and all I used to keep the temperature down was a towel and ice blocks, as suggested on here by others.

I live in FNQ, Cairns, and the temps at the time (July) were very similar to those you have quoted. After I got the towel and ice going the FV maintained a temperature of sound 19C. 

I've just bottled my second brew. For that I had found a secondhand fridge ($80) and purchased an Inkbird ($50), not just for ease but mainly because it's much warmer up here now. The Inkbird is great, but if I could do it again I'd spend the extra $20 and buy the Wifi version, love a graph and app!

As mentioned, spending the cash early on should only be done if you feel that home brewing is for you.

So far, by my calculations (love spreadsheets),  I should recouped my costs after my fourth brew,  Averaging 20L/brew. Thats after buying the fridge, Inkbird, extra bottles and various amount of ingredients for each brew - Hops, Malt, Sugars, Kits..etc.

I usually spend around $50-$55 on a carton of beer, my fourth brew should work out under that, and reducing thereafter... Unless the equipment list grows... HAHAHAH! 🍺

 

Good luck and happy brewing.

Thats really good info and helpful,

My shed where it will sit is just over 30c that is why i was thinking a frigde and inkbird. I think the wifi one would be really good that way i can keep a closer eye on it.

How was the english bitter? I like pale ales myself

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Thanks, the English Bitter turned out ok, perfectly drinkable.

I based the brew on a combination of recipes from the Coopers Website, Battleship Bitter and Extra Smooth Bitter.  There was a maybe a flavour to it I wasn't quite happy with and I'd like to try it again sometime just to see how it turns out with better temperature control as the first 35hrs were a bit high at 24-26C, until I'd added the towel and ice.

I left it for two weeks before bottling to make sure it had finished and help it clear up more.

https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/battleship-bitter.html

https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/extra-smooth-bitter.html

Edited by Abbot-67
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7 minutes ago, jamiea83 said:

What happens if you have make the brew then some one moves it? Does it means its stuffed or will it still work?

As Long as you keep the lid on and nothing horrible gets it my guess it will settle out and be fine. Someone more experienced may know more.

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12 minutes ago, Abbot-67 said:

Thanks, the English Bitter turned out ok, perfectly drinkable.

I based the brew on a combination of recipes from the Coopers Website, Battleship Bitter and Extra Smooth Bitter.  There was a maybe a flavour to it I wasn't quite happy with and I'd like to try it again sometime just to see how it turns out with better temperature control as the first 35hrs were a bit high at 24-26C, until I'd added the towel and ice.

I left it for two weeks before bottling to make sure it had finished and help it clear up more.

https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/battleship-bitter.html

https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/extra-smooth-bitter.html

They look nice. Ill give them a go. If this brew turns out well. I would like to end up doing 2 different brews so then i can pick and choose what i want to drink.

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Just now, jamiea83 said:

They look nice. Ill give them a go. If this brew turns out well. I would like to end up doing 2 different brews so then i can pick and choose what i want to drink.

There's loads of recipes to choose from, or just develop your own.  As well as the English Bitter many brewers on here recommend using Coopers Real Ale as a base and adding to it.  

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27 minutes ago, jamiea83 said:

What happens if you have make the brew then some one moves it? Does it means its stuffed or will it still work?

Hey Jamie,  The brew in the fermenter will tolerate some moving around.  I take mine out of the temperature controlled freezer in the laundry into the kitchen sometimes to do things like additions of hops.

Sometimes the yeast "dust" gets stuck to the inside wall of the fermenter so I will put the fermenter on a bench and give it a little jiggle to get the yeast to move and sink.

Try to not agitate it too much though.  Splashing should be avoided.

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So i mixed up the brew yesterday and just using the towel method. But have really found it hard to keep it at 22 its been staying between 22 to 24c. So my question is it states that i should keep it at 21c also it says it the fisrt test should be at 1038 but mine was at 1034. so will it still be ok?

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Hey @jamiea83

22 to 24 will be fine for a first brew.  You might get some flavours in your finished beer you would rather not have, but it will be far from ruined.

Your SG reading should be okay too.  You might not have fully stirred up the ingredients.  Or your hydrometer might be reading a little bit off.  You can test it yourself.  It should read 1.000 in 20°C tap water.  If it reads 0.996 add 4 points to get your correct reading or if it reads 1.004 then subtract 4 points for the reading.

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4 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Hey @jamiea83

22 to 24 will be fine for a first brew.  You might get some flavours in your finished beer you would rather not have, but it will be far from ruined.

Your SG reading should be okay too.  You might not have fully stirred up the ingredients.  Or your hydrometer might be reading a little bit off.  You can test it yourself.  It should read 1.000 in 20°C tap water.  If it reads 0.996 add 4 points to get your correct reading or if it reads 1.004 then subtract 4 points for the reading.

Hi shamus,

Thanks for the info. I did find it abit hard to mix the dry ingredients and there a few larger lumps i wasnt happy with. Ill give the hydrometer a test later but good to know that it could be out. 

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Just now, jamiea83 said:

Hi shamus,

Thanks for the info. I did find it abit hard to mix the dry ingredients and there a few larger lumps i wasnt happy with. Ill give the hydrometer a test later but good to know that it could be out. 

No worries Jamie

The larger lumps will eventually dissolve, if they have not already.  I would call my original gravity (OG) as 1.038 based on your description of a few lumps.  You use the OG and final gravity (FG) to calculate your alcohol level.  The Coopers FAQ's page advises:

The approximate alcohol content can be calculated by firstly measuring with a hydrometer the density (known as Specific Gravity, SG) of the brew before it has started fermenting and once it has finished fermenting then plugging these two figures into a formula. It is important to stress that we, as DIY Brewers, can’t measure the alcohol content directly and this method is only an approximation of the percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV). OG is the Original Gravity (SG of the brew as it has been mixed) FG is the Final Gravity (SG of the brew once fermentation has finished)

(OG – FG) / 7.46 = Approx % Alcohol By Volume

For example, a brew with OG = 1036, FG = 1012: (1036 – 1012) / 7.46 = 3.2% ABV.

Note: allow for an extra 0.3% to 0.5% ABV due to the addition of Carbonation Drops (or sugar) in the bottle.

 

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So its been a few days and it bubbled well so i took out the middle part. This is what it looks like at the moment and just wanted to know if it looks right????? I have been keeping the temp at 22 to 24 c as im using the towel method till i can find the right fridge and inkbird. Thanks.

20191029_213102.jpg

20191029_213111.jpg

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7 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Looks like it's probably finished fermenting. I'd take a sample and see what SG it's sitting at. 

I just did a test and it keeps rising but at the first stop when it first stoping point is at 1004

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27 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

You need to degas the sample or spin the hydrometer in it to get any bubbles off it. 1.004 sounds low, what ingredients were used in the batch?

Got it to stay at 1.004. I just used what was in the pack i got so enchancer 1 and the lager tin. The temp for the brew was at 22 - 24 dec. It smells like a fruity beer.

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31 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Yeah, that mix usually finishes around 1.012 or thereabouts. 

So it should take a few more days then or just check it each day and if it stays the same bottle it? 

It should still be ok?

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11 minutes ago, jamiea83 said:

So it should take a few more days then or just check it each day and if it stays the same bottle it? 

It should still be ok?

I would be testing your hydrometer in 20C water. It should read 1.000 or thereabouts. If it doesn't, your hydrometer is out or may have taken water on board. My Coopers plastic hydrometer took on water and this was giving false (low) readings. Since purchasing a glass hydrometer I have had no problems.

I agree with the others, 1.004 seems quite low for that mix of ingredients. Give it a taste - if it tastes OK then it is probably OK.

Check it in another 2 days. If it is the same, it's done and is ready to be bottled. I don't think it will go much, if any lower than that as that is already quite low.

Mitch.

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1 hour ago, jamiea83 said:

So it should take a few more days then or just check it each day and if it stays the same bottle it? 

It should still be ok?

Thanks for that. I might check it again tomorrow and see what it comes up with.

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2 hours ago, jamiea83 said:

So it should take a few more days then or just check it each day and if it stays the same bottle it? 

It should still be ok?

It won't go up, it will only ever go down once yeast is pitched, but I agree that it's most likely finished. 

I also think your hydrometer is reading wrong, test it in water as the other guys advised. 

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