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About Me

Found 43 results

  1. Hey all, I have searched the forum but can't find an answer to a discussion a mate and I are having. Can someone tell me why we have to add the 1.7kg can to hot water with the mixed sugars etc and then add cool water to get to temp before adding yeast. I could be wrong, often are says the Mrs, but thought why not just add the can to an already stable temp'd fermenter, mix and then add the yeast. Yeast is added at the same temp it will ferment at for the next week or so before bottling. If anyone could shed some light I'd be grateful. As you can tell, absolute newbie.
  2. THE SEARCH FOR AUSTRALIA'S GREATEST DIY BREWER IS ON! Have your beer brewed by Coopers, sold through Dan Murphy's and become MASTER OF THE BREWNIVERSE! Learn more at coopersmotb.com.au
  3. Hi all, looking for some help - my temp controller died the other day and had a brew on at the time, managed to keep it in the target temp range by turning the fridge on for a couple hours before bed then turning it off again - did this for a week. Went away for 5 days over the last weekend and decided to cold crash - it's an old fridge and it completely froze the brew! When I got back it was a giant beerberg. I've defrosted it up to about 10 degrees now and looking to bottle over the next few days. I'm wondering if being frozen for a few days will have affected the yeast to the point where it won't be able to bottle carb? I was planning on reusing the yeast with a classy pitch onto yeast cake for my next brew as well and wondering if the freezing will affect it's viability? Should I disturb the sediment and give the whole thing a stir and leave it at 20 degrees for a couple days? I was using reactivated Cooper's commercial yeast, first time it's been used. Thanks in advance.
  4. I’m fairly new to homebrewing and have started a batch of 86 Day Pilsner. It’s been fermenting for 10 days now and isn't in the specific gravity that I was advised it should be in on the hydrometer after checking 3 days in a row. Its still bubbling from the airlock and bubbles once every 10 minutes and has been fermenting between 20-22 degrees. Reading through the online instructions and the instructions on the tin it says that it should be ready after 6 days at 21 degrees but the hydrometer readings arent consistent. I was told it was supposed to be in the green on the hydrometer. Online it mentions that the 86 days pilsner takes longer than other products in the Thomas Cooper range? Has anyone had any experience with the 86 Days Pilsner and can give any advice when I should bottle or any things I should be looking out for or any general advice? Thanks in advance
  5. Can someone please tell me why coopers supplies a brew enhancer one in there diy kits (I have 3 now) with there lager and the lager that comes in the kit says it should have brew enhancer 2. In fact I have not seen one of the coopers brew's that reqiure a brew enhancer 1 they are all either brew enhancer two or threee except for the british lager which are 500grams of light dry malt. Why is this?
  6. Just reading over the Anarchy IPA recipe of the month and I realised I have stuffed up when putting this recipe down yesterday! I only topped up to 20l, the recipe says top up to 20l then get temp right by topping up to 22l, I pitched the yeast about 24hrs ago and it's in my temp controlled freezer, should I risk adding another 2l of water or just leave it be? Airlock is bubbling away nicely. What do you people think?
  7. I am new to brewing and have only done two batches so far. I want to do an IPA for the summer since I love the grapefruit taste I get from them. Is coopers IPA good left alone or should I add more hopes like citra to get more of that flavour? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  8. I just wanted to make a comment about the Thomas Coopers Bootmaker's Pale Ale kit. When the new range was released I eagerly looked at this kit as the first I wished to brew, & have subsequently brewed a number of the Thomas Coopers range. This was the only one I was disappointed in of the kits I've tried so far. I'm only disappointed because of the extra price tag above the other ranges. For the style it appears to be aimed at I feel it falls short as a base kit. I would much prefer to see something like a Centennial/Simcoe mix other than the current Cascade/Styrian Golding combo that makes up the current hop mix. This particular range of kits should be fully loaded at their current price point where no extra hops/grains should be required & still produce a high quality beer in the styles they are aimed at. This kit is not quite up to the mark IMHO. I wish it was. I don't mean any offence. Just my 2 cents. Cheers, Lusty.
  9. Hey guys I am reasonably new to brewing, have mainly been doing basic brews except for “Beer O’clock Session IPA Reciepe” am keen to attempt a Coppers Session copy using Coopers Lager and Melba Hops as well as Galaxy Hops. Was going to boil the hops in the wort for 20 on galaxy and 10 on Melba thoughts? Very open to different suggestions (only getting used to using Hops)
  10. I love Coopers Pale Ale. Always have and always will. Must be the South Aussie in me. So my wife bought me a Coopers homebrew kit for xmas and today I finally had the chance to crack it open and pretend i'm Thomas Cooper. I jumped on this site to get an idea on what I was doing and I reckon I watched the starter video 9 times before I was confident enough to have a go. So how did I go? First and foremost- Darwin water, even after running it for 10 minutes, comes out of the tap at about 38-40c. I did not take this into account..... On my "wet run" i thought i had the temperature right but completely failed to take into account the 2lt of hot water you add at the start to mix the enhancer. Rookie error. So by the time i had mixed everything i was running hot. Real hot! I added 3lt of fridge cold water, up to the 23lt mark, but the lowest i got in those first few crucial hours was 30c. I panicked and quickly started running a bath to sit the tub in and try and lower the temperature. It took a while but i managed to get it down slightly. Not as low as i wanted but it's not in the low 30's anymore. About 26c at the moment. OG was 1050 when I tested it Tips for young players (meaning me)- Have about 10lt of fridge cold water next time. And have it at 18-21c before I add the yeast. I honestly don't know what to expect from this batch. I hope it's going to be ok but i won't be surprised if it can remove my wifes nail polish.
  11. 23 litres of Brand A still fermenting after 9 days is this normal 20 degrees
  12. Hello, just new to all of this but wondering if some beers are better brewing in hotter climates? Darwin. i have been making lager with not much success. Thanks in advance, Phil
  13. Should I add additional yeast to my Coopers Crown Lager to improve on the yeast supplied with the can. At what stage do you test for the OG. Thanks
  14. Hi to all u brewers out there. I just purchased the coopers DIY kit and going through it all I came across the enhancer 1 packet but the tin says to use enhancer 2. Should I get the 2 instead of what’s in the kit. I do make my own spirits but decided to try the beer as well. I have tried someone else’s before and like it. Being doing a dry one with water temp as tap water here on the Sunshine Coast of Australia is at 24 but have spring water in fridge for my first brew. Thanks in advance. Pyder
  15. I’m two days into a Coopers Pale Ale and I have just had a check on my fav and taken a sample. Once foam had settled hydrometer read 1010. Seems awfully fast as OG was 1042. Is this normal
  16. Hi! Does anybody have experience making Brew A IPA. I made the first batch following directions on the can. It calls for 1.5 KG of Light Dry Malt (3 Boxes). In the primary it was VERY cloudy after 1 week so we went 2 weeks. Still a little cloudy at bottling time. End result is a clear amber, nice tasting IPA. However I have a lot of loose sediment in the bottom. Anyone have info that might help with the next batch?
  17. Hey guys Looking for ideas on improving/experimenting with the coopers Australian Pale Ale kit. I currently have: 1x Australian Pale Ale 1.7kg 1x Brew enhancer 2 1kg I also have on hand Simcoe, Centennial and Riwaka hops. Just wondering what hop schedule I could do for the above hops or if could add any specialty grains to pimp the standard kit out a bit Any ideas or input would be great!
  18. can I use wheat malt extract in a lager kit using w34/70 yeast and what hops to use thnx
  19. I have just tasted my fourth brew from my craft beer kit, going through the range - not much difference in results. Very dark and some odd flavours - but drinkable. Just doing my first brew in my new 23l fermenter. Smelling and looking better. Could be due to using bottled water rather thank tank water, and finally got a fridge and temperature controller. My question is around addition of hops. I have added some mosaic at day 7 and will be bottling soon. As per instructions, I floated the "tea bag" on top of the brew. As I bottle directly from the FV, should I give it a gentle stir before bottling to ensure the extra hops is evenly distributed? Or will this happen without the stirring (trying not to disturb the yeast sediment of course?
  20. Hey guys. Just wondering if any one has used real fruit in brew to flavour. Open to all suggestions as im thinkin bout it.
  21. So, I've finally moved into a new place that will allow be to brew to my heart's content and I've collected enough Cooper's longneck bottles for two batches. The only thing holding me back now is whether to start a brew now just before we head into summer (Melbourne) or wait until cooler months? I'm limited on space and funds so I can't get a small fridge to keep the temp low. Has anyone had good brew during summer with the fermenter in a cool place? ( ie; laundry ) Is the ice bottles in the laundry tub the best way to hold the temp? Also, is there a brew kit that's "easier" to start with for a newbie? Cheers Guys
  22. So when I just make a straightforward home brew with a Coopers kit, is that a lager or ale yeast under the lid? Am I making an ale or a lager? When it's fermenting, I don't know if the action is happening on the top or the bottom of the vat.
  23. As I completed entering the log of my latest batch of Cooper Dark Ale I noticed that this was batch #131. I flipped back to my first Cooper's entry: October 30, 1987. Wow, over 31 years of brewing Cooper"s!! I have brewed many different kit brands (including mashing my own) but have always returned to the best; over half of my recorded batches have been Cooper's - and with the exception of a few 'gift' kits, exclusively since 2003!!!
  24. Leo53


    Recently purchased a pale ale tin on the 14 Nov 18, yeast had a julien date of 28917. The yeast did not appear to activate and I threw out brew after 7 days. Could the old yeast have been the issue. I did every thing as per instructions, although the wort temp was 27/28 when I pitched. Kept receipt, from an SA food chain. Should I ask for refund?
  25. Its the time of year again when beekeepers start to extract large amounts of honey which is generally sold cheap on sites like gumtree for somewhere between $12 to $15/kg. As a beekeeper living in Perth I generally have way more than I can eat or sell, so I use it in brewing. Using honey sourced from a local beekeeper has many advantages. It is actually genuine honey that's been foraged for and created by a bee, instead of the flavourless, amorphous sugar solution imported from China that many supermarkets sell as honey. Its honey sourced locally from various flowers throughout the Spring and Summer with flavours that change as the year progresses. And its supporting dedicate, local hobbyists who are passionate about producing a quality product that way exceeds honey bought from shops and boutiques. Once you've eaten local honey you'll never buy it from the supermarket again. My two favourite brews are simply to substitute the sugar for honey in Cooper's Pale Ale and Stout kits. They are so simple, except for one cautionary point. 1) Take Coopers tin, open it, put it into brew bin. 2) Take 1.5kg of honey, mix with 1 litre of water, and heat slowly to 70 - 80°C and hold for 5 minutes. This (cautionary point) is important to kill most of the natural yeast in the honey that will ferment instead of the yeast you pitch. Honey doesn't normally ferment because the high sugar content prevents the yeast from multiplying. It lies dormant until the water content of the honey exceeds 20%. Supermarket honey doesn't do this because its all been pasturised, allowing supermarket honey to have high water content without fermenting. It really is just sugary water or maybe more appropriately watery sugar. 3) Add the honey solution to your brew bin, make up to 22 or 23 litres, pitch the yeast and ferment as normal. Brewing can stop temporarily for half a day for some reason, and then restart. Stirring 3 or 4 times during each brew helps keep things going. 4) Prime the bottles as usual, cap and leave to rest for a month. The final product is excellent. The Pale Ale forms the base to a drink very similar to Bees Knees but with more complex flavours and variety between batches, while the Stout becomes smoother and heavier with emboldenedflowery flavours sitting behind the stronger stout taste. 1.5kg of honey probably results in 6% ABV. I give my best customers a free mixed 6-pack here and there to keep them loyal. And with that, its time for me to order my Summer brewing kits while Coopers is having its free delivery offer.
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