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MitchellScott

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MitchellScott last won the day on June 25 2020

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  1. I started out as a Kit brewer and quickly progressed into buying unhopped malt extract and using my own hops/mini boil to create a brew. Made some very nice beers too. Quickly moved into AG and haven't looked back personally. Got myself a Brewzilla and use the no chill method. Have got my process down pretty well with no chilling and making hoppy beers which can sometimes be a bit of a pain with no chill. Can't be bothered with PH/water chemistry. I am happy with the beers I am making with plain old tap water. I also don't strictly monitor my OG etc. If I am a few points off or something, meh. I do still check it though of course, to get a final ABV percentage and check that nothing has gone disastrously wrong. I will get the occasional FWK if I have been strapped for time/am feeling lazy. 5mins and you have a AG quality beer in the FV. Does feel like cheating though... Cheers
  2. Thanks mate, will keep you all up to date that's for sure. I have a Stout to ferment then will get onto this one next. Perfect thanks mate. Might start out with 300g then and see how we go Mitch.
  3. Depends if you have a check valve in the gas line, or a manifold that has check valves built in. I have a 3 way manifold with check valves in it, so if I quick carb at 40psi for 24 hours, after 24 hours is up, I will turn off all valves on the manifold, unwind the regulator all the way, release the pressure from the regulator using the PRV, then slowly add pressure till it hits 12PSI (serving pressure), then turn back on all of my valves on the manifold. The check valve stops the 40psi of pressure blowing back into my regulator from the keg, or into my other keg gas lines. If you don't have a manifold/check valve, you would be best to remove the disconnect from the keg, unwind the reg all the way, release the pressure from the reg using the PRV, then set the reg to your serving pressure. Then release all pressure from your keg, connect the disconnect and you will be good to go. If you do not release the pressure from the keg, then when you connect the disconnect, the pressure will block back through the lines, into the reg and increase the reg pressure on the gauge. Mitch.
  4. Howdy all. Been a while since I've been on here.... Starting a new career path along with a few other things has chewed up a bit of my free time but I have still been brewing enough to keep the kegs full One recipe I have always wanted to give a crack since tasting the beer is a Malt Shovel XPA. I first had one a few years ago and it was brilliant. After a bit of research it seems they are using Pale/Toffee Malt, along with Citra, Galaxy, Amarillo and El Dorado hops - snip taken from their website: I am doing a KegLand order for some grains etc and am gonna grab a few kg of Toffee malt, however, I have never used this before so have no idea on what sort of amount to add in. I was thinking 200-300g, similar to a Crystal addition but wanted to get some advice if anyone has used it before? Also, any recommendations with hops and schedules? I cube my wort so generally try to get all of my bitterness from a smaller 60min addition, then cool the wort to 80C and add hop stand additions. Was going to do my first batch with a simple hop schedule, something like; 10-15g Amarillo @60min 30g each of Amarillo, Citra, El Dorado @ 80C Hopstand 30g of Amarillo, Citra, El Dorado & Galaxy @ Dry Hop. Also thinking of going with ol' faithful US-05 yeast, but I do have some Nottingham here too. Would be open to any recommendations and I will be sure to post progress/tasting in this thread as I get to it. Cheers and good to be back - hopefully I can get on here a bit more often again. Mitch.
  5. Considering you added Maltodextrin (which does not ferment), I would say around the 1.016-1.018 mark would be about spot on the where this beer should finish. Keep in mind your OG/FG are dependent on the in ingredients used. If you add different things in that aren't in the standard recipe, you should expect some outcomes to be different. As Hairy said, if it stays at 1.016 for 3 days then bottle it as normal, its done. Mitch.
  6. Glad you enjoyed this one mate. It was certainly an easy drinker that is pretty easy to make. In regards to you head issue, you will probably find that it will improve with time in the bottle, but because you have a decent amount of sugar in the brew and a pretty low FG, its always going to be hard to keep a good head on it. As AL said, steeping grains can certainly help with this. You can also try more malt and a bit less sugar too. I personally wouldn't be using Maltodextrin in this sort of beer. Crystal malt or Carapils would certainly work though As you can see in a few posts above, the bottle that was stored and lagered properly had a great 1cm head for the whole beer. I did use a nucleated Headmaster glass with it too though, so that would have definitely helped. Another thing you could try is using LME instead of DME, that is something I personally didn't test, but when I was doing extract brews and I was making ales, I did find the LME superior to DME. Never tried it in a lager though. Cheers and happy brewing
  7. You will probably end up with a pretty bitter beer as you have boiled for the 60mins instead of 30. But if you don't mind that it will be fine. Sure you can sub in US-05 but keep in mind that is an ale yeast so you wont be producing a lager beer. It will probably be a very bland beer with US-05 too as that is an extremely neutral yeast flavour wise. I would be keeping the S23 or even using W34-70. Mitch.
  8. Hi mate. General rule of thumb is to have an approx 1.040 gravity in your wort for boiling. To achieve this you want give or take 100g per liter of DME. So fill the pot to 10L, add in 1kg of DME, get it to the boil, then add in your 30g of POR and start timer. Once you hit 30mins, take it off the heat and cool it down ASAP (I used a bath with some water in the bottom of it). That's it :). Not hard at all. Mitch.
  9. What was the recipe? A FG of 0.07 is extremely low Mitch.
  10. Like @Journeyman has said, the beer is simply absorbing the small amount of C02 you have in the headspace. Just give it a purge when first filling, then you can store it with no issue. The pressure from the headspace will naturally absorb into the beer but that is normal. Mitch.
  11. Hey all. Long time no see, been flatout lately. I want to remake my Chocolate Milk Stout which is actually a Cheeky Peak recipe (AG). But was curious as to how it would taste with a bit of a chilli bite. How do people go about adding some chilli into their stouts? Add into the boil? Is there a certain type of chilli that works best? How much to add? Any help would be awesome Cheers, Mitch.
  12. I would say it will take off, however, after a few months in the fridge you have probably lost quite a few cells. A starter would have done it well. I would leave it for another 12-24 hours. If you have no action then, then worry. Mitch.
  13. I've heard a similar thing at a few places. Basically seems to be exactly what @James Lao said from what I can gather after talking to a few people about it.
  14. To be honest mate I cannot remember hahahaha. I remember one of my 150 Lashes clones being much hoppier than the original, not that that was a bad thing. That may or may not have been this recipe that I posted above, although looking at it now there isn't a huge amount of hops there (compared to what I use now anyway...) Give it a crack for sure, it definitely wasn't a bad beer, otherwise I would have certainly remembered it Mitch.
  15. There are many ways you can do it. Most people tend to prefer ageing beers are ambient temps, so because of this, I would go down one of two paths for carbonation/ageing. Keg the beer, add the priming sugar, and leave at ambient temps for 6 weeks. then cool and connect to serving pressure. Keg the beer, connect to C02 and purge the headspace with 45PSI 4-5 times (removes any oxygen from the headspace of the keg), then store for 4-5 weeks at ambient, then when you are ready, connect it to gas and put in fridge, carbing at serving pressure for 10-14 days. You could force carb it overnight but not really any need when you want to age it anyway. As someone who kegs myself, I prefer the force carbing method. Naturally carbing a keg leaves a bit of yeast sediment in the bottom of it and also adds alcohol (making it drier) due to the priming sugar used. If you have the gas there to do it, why not just force carb (IMO). Mitch.
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