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MitchellScott

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MitchellScott last won the day on June 25

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  1. Just hop that the hop matter doesn't clog the disconnect on the kegs. They say these things come in 3's
  2. Chances of infection when you have the keg stored at fridge temps is pretty low. Plus you have the benefit that there is already alcohol in the beer so I think in that aspect you will be fine. As for the oxidised situation, I doubt you will have an issue. I (personally) think that some people are waaaaaaay over the top (not on this forum but in other places) about oxygen exposure. I make pretty hoppy beers (sure not a NEIPA), and fill the old school way with nothing but air in the keg, a tube to the bottom, fill quickly, fit the lid and purge straight away. I have never had an oxidised taste in my beers that I can taste. She'll be right!
  3. Slightly modified Three C's Pale Ale coming up on this beautiful Saturday 20200704_103817.mp4
  4. Yes, woops haha. Will be normal dry hop for 3-5 days then CC for a few days before kegging
  5. For those of you that were talking about the Three C's, this is the plan for mine tomorrow:
  6. I am hoping to get out the BrewZilla tomorrow, if so, I'll do a 3 C's batch with some wheat and make sure I report how it turns out As of yet, I haven't tried different hops. But, in the future I'd be keen to have a play with them - thinking some Amarillo/El Dorado might be nice....... Food for thought! Mitch.
  7. Was meant to press "9" instead of "0". They are both next to each other on my phone.
  8. This is why I love Coopers. Always happy to get back to you and help out, while improving on their ways. Great Aussie company!
  9. Your IPA will come out at: 4.8% (kegged) 5.2% (bottled). A good idea is put 1L of boiling water into the FV then mix all the dry malts/sugars, before adding in the rest of the water + tins. This helps make sure all the dry stuff is dissolved, but sometimes sucks to do in summer due to the (already high) temp of tap water. Also, it sounds like 1.012 is the FG that is more to be correct. The plastic hydrometers in my experience are pretty shitty, glass tends to be much more accurate. But test them out Mitch.
  10. Have you guys confirmed that pressing it twice orders twice? I highly doubt the way the online store is coded that that would occur.
  11. I would be testing your glass hydrometer in some water that is about 20C. It should read give or take 1.000. It may be a tiny bit more or less, you can add/remove this from your readings of beer. What were the volumes of the IPA brew? From what you have said, the reading should have been higher. If you give me the volumes I can run it through a calculator and give you a pretty accurate idea of what OG/FG and ABV you will have. You also may not have mixzed the ingredients fully before taking a reading. This can especially happen with dry malt or sugars (dex etc). The good thing about extract brewing is you can easily calculate how much sugar is in your brews and therefore the final ABV outcome. Mitch.
  12. I love this beer. It's going to be a regular for me from now on. In fact, I might smash it out again this weekend. Thinking about subbing in some wheat malt and seeing how it affects the outcome. YUM!
  13. The Inkbird should turn the heater off once you have hit your target temp. So if 20C is your target temp and the heat belt turns on at 10.3, then it will turn off at 20C. Looks like your beers are coming along nicely. Well done.
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