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Everything posted by MitchellScott

  1. Will definitely check them out mate, cheers! Yep exactly... $55 for 6kg of gas I could have bought the most expensive o-rings known to man and still had spare change
  2. G'Day guys. Does anyone know where you can get some decent keg post o-rings (silicon preferably)? I am thinking some slightly oversized ones to try and have a tighter fit with the disconnects. So far I have just used the standard el cheapo ones as they are all I can find, and some of them I find leak on the first use. I actually lost a bottle of gas for being vigilant and changing out my o-rings lol...... Don't mind paying for quality. It's cheaper than a bottle of gad at the end of the day. Cheers, Mitch.
  3. I started out as a Kit brewer and quickly progressed into buying unhopped malt extract and using my own hops/mini boil to create a brew. Made some very nice beers too. Quickly moved into AG and haven't looked back personally. Got myself a Brewzilla and use the no chill method. Have got my process down pretty well with no chilling and making hoppy beers which can sometimes be a bit of a pain with no chill. Can't be bothered with PH/water chemistry. I am happy with the beers I am making with plain old tap water. I also don't strictly monitor my OG etc. If I am a few points off or something, meh. I do still check it though of course, to get a final ABV percentage and check that nothing has gone disastrously wrong. I will get the occasional FWK if I have been strapped for time/am feeling lazy. 5mins and you have a AG quality beer in the FV. Does feel like cheating though... Cheers
  4. Thanks mate, will keep you all up to date that's for sure. I have a Stout to ferment then will get onto this one next. Perfect thanks mate. Might start out with 300g then and see how we go Mitch.
  5. Depends if you have a check valve in the gas line, or a manifold that has check valves built in. I have a 3 way manifold with check valves in it, so if I quick carb at 40psi for 24 hours, after 24 hours is up, I will turn off all valves on the manifold, unwind the regulator all the way, release the pressure from the regulator using the PRV, then slowly add pressure till it hits 12PSI (serving pressure), then turn back on all of my valves on the manifold. The check valve stops the 40psi of pressure blowing back into my regulator from the keg, or into my other keg gas lines. If you don't have a manifold/check valve, you would be best to remove the disconnect from the keg, unwind the reg all the way, release the pressure from the reg using the PRV, then set the reg to your serving pressure. Then release all pressure from your keg, connect the disconnect and you will be good to go. If you do not release the pressure from the keg, then when you connect the disconnect, the pressure will block back through the lines, into the reg and increase the reg pressure on the gauge. Mitch.
  6. Howdy all. Been a while since I've been on here.... Starting a new career path along with a few other things has chewed up a bit of my free time but I have still been brewing enough to keep the kegs full One recipe I have always wanted to give a crack since tasting the beer is a Malt Shovel XPA. I first had one a few years ago and it was brilliant. After a bit of research it seems they are using Pale/Toffee Malt, along with Citra, Galaxy, Amarillo and El Dorado hops - snip taken from their website: I am doing a KegLand order for some grains etc and am gonna grab a few kg of Toffee malt, however, I have never used this before so have no idea on what sort of amount to add in. I was thinking 200-300g, similar to a Crystal addition but wanted to get some advice if anyone has used it before? Also, any recommendations with hops and schedules? I cube my wort so generally try to get all of my bitterness from a smaller 60min addition, then cool the wort to 80C and add hop stand additions. Was going to do my first batch with a simple hop schedule, something like; 10-15g Amarillo @60min 30g each of Amarillo, Citra, El Dorado @ 80C Hopstand 30g of Amarillo, Citra, El Dorado & Galaxy @ Dry Hop. Also thinking of going with ol' faithful US-05 yeast, but I do have some Nottingham here too. Would be open to any recommendations and I will be sure to post progress/tasting in this thread as I get to it. Cheers and good to be back - hopefully I can get on here a bit more often again. Mitch.
  7. Considering you added Maltodextrin (which does not ferment), I would say around the 1.016-1.018 mark would be about spot on the where this beer should finish. Keep in mind your OG/FG are dependent on the in ingredients used. If you add different things in that aren't in the standard recipe, you should expect some outcomes to be different. As Hairy said, if it stays at 1.016 for 3 days then bottle it as normal, its done. Mitch.
  8. Glad you enjoyed this one mate. It was certainly an easy drinker that is pretty easy to make. In regards to you head issue, you will probably find that it will improve with time in the bottle, but because you have a decent amount of sugar in the brew and a pretty low FG, its always going to be hard to keep a good head on it. As AL said, steeping grains can certainly help with this. You can also try more malt and a bit less sugar too. I personally wouldn't be using Maltodextrin in this sort of beer. Crystal malt or Carapils would certainly work though As you can see in a few posts above, the bottle that was stored and lagered properly had a great 1cm head for the whole beer. I did use a nucleated Headmaster glass with it too though, so that would have definitely helped. Another thing you could try is using LME instead of DME, that is something I personally didn't test, but when I was doing extract brews and I was making ales, I did find the LME superior to DME. Never tried it in a lager though. Cheers and happy brewing
  9. You will probably end up with a pretty bitter beer as you have boiled for the 60mins instead of 30. But if you don't mind that it will be fine. Sure you can sub in US-05 but keep in mind that is an ale yeast so you wont be producing a lager beer. It will probably be a very bland beer with US-05 too as that is an extremely neutral yeast flavour wise. I would be keeping the S23 or even using W34-70. Mitch.
  10. Hi mate. General rule of thumb is to have an approx 1.040 gravity in your wort for boiling. To achieve this you want give or take 100g per liter of DME. So fill the pot to 10L, add in 1kg of DME, get it to the boil, then add in your 30g of POR and start timer. Once you hit 30mins, take it off the heat and cool it down ASAP (I used a bath with some water in the bottom of it). That's it :). Not hard at all. Mitch.
  11. What was the recipe? A FG of 0.07 is extremely low Mitch.
  12. Like @Journeyman has said, the beer is simply absorbing the small amount of C02 you have in the headspace. Just give it a purge when first filling, then you can store it with no issue. The pressure from the headspace will naturally absorb into the beer but that is normal. Mitch.
  13. Hey all. Long time no see, been flatout lately. I want to remake my Chocolate Milk Stout which is actually a Cheeky Peak recipe (AG). But was curious as to how it would taste with a bit of a chilli bite. How do people go about adding some chilli into their stouts? Add into the boil? Is there a certain type of chilli that works best? How much to add? Any help would be awesome Cheers, Mitch.
  14. I would say it will take off, however, after a few months in the fridge you have probably lost quite a few cells. A starter would have done it well. I would leave it for another 12-24 hours. If you have no action then, then worry. Mitch.
  15. I've heard a similar thing at a few places. Basically seems to be exactly what @James Lao said from what I can gather after talking to a few people about it.
  16. To be honest mate I cannot remember hahahaha. I remember one of my 150 Lashes clones being much hoppier than the original, not that that was a bad thing. That may or may not have been this recipe that I posted above, although looking at it now there isn't a huge amount of hops there (compared to what I use now anyway...) Give it a crack for sure, it definitely wasn't a bad beer, otherwise I would have certainly remembered it Mitch.
  17. There are many ways you can do it. Most people tend to prefer ageing beers are ambient temps, so because of this, I would go down one of two paths for carbonation/ageing. Keg the beer, add the priming sugar, and leave at ambient temps for 6 weeks. then cool and connect to serving pressure. Keg the beer, connect to C02 and purge the headspace with 45PSI 4-5 times (removes any oxygen from the headspace of the keg), then store for 4-5 weeks at ambient, then when you are ready, connect it to gas and put in fridge, carbing at serving pressure for 10-14 days. You could force carb it overnight but not really any need when you want to age it anyway. As someone who kegs myself, I prefer the force carbing method. Naturally carbing a keg leaves a bit of yeast sediment in the bottom of it and also adds alcohol (making it drier) due to the priming sugar used. If you have the gas there to do it, why not just force carb (IMO). Mitch.
  18. Agreed with the IanH spreadsheet. When I was brewing extract it was a life saver and helped me start designing my own recipes. It's a great piece of equipment. Mitch.
  19. Along with this, most liquid malt cans are 1.5kg. Save yourself the hassle of saving 0.3kg and trying to store it, just throw the whole lot in there and enjoy a slightly stronger beer. When I was using extract I had great success with the Coopers liquid malts. Very well priced on their website when they do the free shipping offers too (if you are in Australia). Mitch.
  20. See this all the time on the FB home brew groups...... Can never work out what it is Mitch.
  21. Knew I'd have to post in here eventually....... It all started about a week ago when I brewed up an AG Clone and Wood. Missed my OG by a bit so thought instead of drinking a near mid strength Pacific Ale, I'll brew another strong batch with the same bitterness and mix them both together in my larger 60L fermenter. All went well, saved the brew and ended up with 45L of it... Can't complain there. Tuesday night I pulled the 60L fermenter out, gave it a good sanitize and poured both cubes in. Was just starting to clean things up before realising the shitty tap is leaking (I usually use my 30L Coopers fermenter which has a great tap that I have never had issues with). Shitttt... What do I do now. I didn't have a spare tap and it was about 8.30pm. A quick phone call to a fellow brewer who lives close and I found myself a new tap - lucky as I was expecting to have to do the 9am run to the LHBS to get a new tap and hope not too much leaked out...... Jumped in the car and raced over there, got the tap, came back and poured about 3/4 of the wort back into the cubes understanding I am risking infection but had no other choice. Got enough wort out of the fermenter to tilt it on an angle and allow the tap to be swapped over. Then poured to cubes back in and added the yeast starter. Crisis averted thank god. One positive that came out of things was after mixing the two (weaker and stronger) I got back OG back to where it should be (1.044). After checking the beer this morning, it seems to be chugging away nicely and at the moment there is no signs of infection so I think we are OK. I am always pretty anal with sanitation so was confident it will be OK. Mitch.
  22. That's great that they have allowed you to post that Well done again Woodsy and well done Coopers for the great competition. @King Ruddager I look forward to a side by side video!
  23. Put my Three C's Pale into the keg tonight after a 5 day cold crash. As it was going in, it looked like some small hop flakes were making their way into the keg too. Dunno why - have never had this issue previously so long as I cold crashed for a few days to settle them out. I think some of it was stuck in the thick annoying US-05 Krausen and when I started filling the keg the disturbance has caused it to break loose from the Krausen and into the beer. Maybe I'll have to go back to the old hop sock. Fingers crossed there isn't enough to cause blockages. I can handle tossing the first few schooners if they have floaties. Mitch.
  24. G'day fellow brewers. On the weekend I did a batch of Stone & Wood Pacific Ale using 60/40 pale malt to wheat malt. Crushed the grains myself and adjusted the roller gap for both types of grain. Although I think I milled the wheat a little course. Anyway, proceeded with the brewday on the BZ 3.1.1 and had no issues. Checked OG at the end of the boil and was a little low: Brewfather says 1.045 and got 1.040. So I decided instead of having slightly lower ABV I would brew another batch stronger, and mix them both together to get a similar result to what I wanted in the first place with double the beer. So I made up another recipe and the OG for this one according the Brewfather targetted 1.052. I ensured my crush was fine enough so that all wheat and pale grains were definitely cracked - there were none that weren't cracked. Added some rice hulls in too as the crush was pretty fine. Got it mashing without any issues and went through the whole process without any dramas. Checked the OG and although it was much closer, it was still a little low: Brewfather stated 1.052 and I got around 1.049. I have always got pretty much spot on to my Brewfather OG targets (if not higher efficiency), but have never used this much wheat (before this the most wheat I have used is 500g). In both cases my recirculation and sparge was fine so that should not have effected my efficiency. My water levels and outcomes were both pretty spot on too on both batches. Below is the original recipe. Any ideas? I'm not too fussed. The end product will only be a little weaker than I was aiming for once I mix them together and ferment in a double batch.
  25. AG Three C's Pale Ale with some wheat subbed in. Can't wait to try it out
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