jeremy-o Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Wait' date=' how so? You're not losing sugars after the mash, just volume, and efficiency is really measuring how much sugar you get from your grain bill... right? Or am I missing something.[/quote']Only if you have additional losses between the end of the boil and the transfer to the fermenter. Say you have a 10 litre batch size, but you leave 2 litres behind in the kettle because you don't want to transfer trub across. For the same amount of grain, you would need better extract efficiency in your mash to reach the same OG in 12 litres total volume than you would to reach that OG in 10 litres total volume. Basically you've left some sugars behind in that 2 litres so your extract efficiency from the amount of grain you had is lower overall. If you dump everything from the boil kettle into the fermenter, then yes, there is no change to your efficiency as measured into the boil. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, John Oh yeah, makes sense. I do use all my wort after the boil - this time around it all went into the fermenter because of the lower mash efficiency, and previously I was using the last trubbier bit to ferment as a side project (mandarin bock? coming up). I'm sure there'd still be a very marginal difference between the two figures but I'm not too worried about that, I'm more worried about nailing down consistency in the mash process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRedPriest Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Real Apple Hard Cider - 14kg Pink lady apples which were from Willie Smith's orchard in Grove (South of Hobart) Juiced to give 8 litres. Add juice to the FV - pinch of Potassium Metabisulphite to kill off the wild yeasts and left to sit for 24 hours. - Teaspoon of Pectic Enzyme - Teaspoon of Yeast Nutrient - Vintners Harvest Wine Yeast – SN9 OG 1.062 Will let ferment for 3-4 weeks at approximately 15 degrees C. When bottling will do some with no carbonation drops, some with one and some with two to find the optimal level. Will also give it at least 3 months to bottle condition. Hopefully I'll get this down to a FG of 0.995 so it will be about 8 ish % and nice and dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Lotto (Otto and Lusty's) Red Ale 1.5kg Breiss Light Malt 500gm LDM 500gm BE3 280gm CaraAromoa 180g Carapils 60g Roast Barley Steep for 45 mins @ 66C 20.00 g Cascade - First Wort 80.0 min 5.00 g Warrior - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Centennial - Boil 20.0 min 30g Cascade dry-hopped Whirfloc at 10mins BRY-97 yeast fermented at 18C 20L Batch OG 1.050 FG 1.014 Dingo. I just bottled this Red Ale after 2 weeks fermenting and 1 week cold crash. There is very much a roasted malt presence which i am wondering will it settle out over time? Next time i might add more bittering hops. I tasted it from the FV at 2C so i am thinking once it warms up and carbonates it will only get better. Dingo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 d efficiency is really measuring how much sugar you get from your grain bill... right? Or am I missing something. I definitely didn't leave myself enough time to decant my starter' date=' though I wish I had. Something to think about in the future - I thought I was ahead of the game with getting my starter ready a day early [img']pouty[/img]. The good news is the fermentation was super active within 12 hours. Love this yeast. Sort of. There are two different efficiencies, mash and brewhouse (total). Mash efficiency is the percentage of sugars extracted from the grains during the mash compared to what could potentially be extracted. Brewhouse efficiency takes into account all the losses from there on; boil off, trub loss, cooling shrinkage etc. If you hit your intended OG but the volume is a litre less than intended, you lose efficiency points, however, this also could indicate that the mash efficiency was lower as well. I lost brewhouse efficiency due to low volumes even though the mash efficiency was usually pretty close to where I expected it. That's another story though. I design my recipes using brewhouse efficiency. It makes sense to me since I'm designing what I want in the fermenter. You'll find that almost all recipes are written with the brewhouse efficiency quoted as well, for the same reason. The ingredients and water volumes are designed to give you a certain volume and SG into the fermenter, not the boil kettle. They may quote the mash efficiency too, but I've not often seen it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 I've noticed a few reports of this roasted flavour from others who have brewed that red ale using roasted barley and I wonder if this is the reason for it. My original recipe uses black patent malt and I've never detected roasty flavours in it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Hi Dingo (& Kelsey). Lotto (Otto and Lusty's) Red Ale 1.5kg Breiss Light Malt 500gm LDM 500gm BE3 280gm CaraAromoa 180g Carapils 60g Roast Barley Steep for 45 mins @ 66C 20.00 g Cascade - First Wort 80.0 min 5.00 g Warrior - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Centennial - Boil 20.0 min 30g Cascade dry-hopped Whirfloc at 10mins BRY-97 yeast fermented at 18C 20L Batch OG 1.050 FG 1.014 Dingo. I just bottled this Red Ale after 2 weeks fermenting and 1 week cold crash. There is very much a roasted malt presence which i am wondering will it settle out over time? Next time i might add more bittering hops. I tasted it from the FV at 2C so i am thinking once it warms up and carbonates it will only get better. Note the area I have highlighted in your recipe Dingo. You've included me in the recipe because it appears you have followed my scaled down version of Kelsey's Red Ale recipe. The Otto Man's base recipe is for 25 litres because that volume suits him' date=' whereas I like to brew @ 21 or 23 litres, so I scaled Kelsey's grain weights down to suit my preferred volume. The reason you are noticing a more roasted flavour in the beer is because you have followed my scaled down version of Kelsey's recipe suited to 23 litres, but have brewed it to a lower 20 litre volume. This lower volume is why the roasted flavours are more prominent, as the percentage weight of the grains that influence these types of flavours are higher in your reduced 20 litre brew. [img']wink[/img] As a side note, the recipe for this beer is soley Otto Von Blotto's, & he deserves ALL the credit for it. I've only brewed it the once, but will be brewing it again soon for Winter drinking as it drinks very well even when a little young. It's a lovely beer. Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 There is very much a roasted malt presence Caraaroma is highly kilned too. Do you use brewing software? Roasted Barley etc is used for colour adjustments in low amounts. When making reddish beers I aim for 28 to 30 EBC and after creating the recipe using quite often Cararoma I'll add some roast/ choc to whatever the software suggests. I used 30 grams when I made that beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 There is very much a roasted malt presence which i am wondering will it settle out over time? G'day Dingo, I used pretty much the same ratio of Roasted Barley as you did (32g in a 10.5 litre batch), and also had a noticeable roast presence at bottling. If your batch is anything like mine, it will disappear very quickly. Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Hi Dingo (& Kelsey). Lotto (Otto and Lusty's) Red Ale 1.5kg Breiss Light Malt 500gm LDM 500gm BE3 280gm CaraAromoa 180g Carapils 60g Roast Barley Steep for 45 mins @ 66C 20.00 g Cascade - First Wort 80.0 min 5.00 g Warrior - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Centennial - Boil 20.0 min 30g Cascade dry-hopped Whirfloc at 10mins BRY-97 yeast fermented at 18C 20L Batch OG 1.050 FG 1.014 Dingo. I just bottled this Red Ale after 2 weeks fermenting and 1 week cold crash. There is very much a roasted malt presence which i am wondering will it settle out over time? Next time i might add more bittering hops. I tasted it from the FV at 2C so i am thinking once it warms up and carbonates it will only get better. Note the area I have highlighted in your recipe Dingo. You've included me in the recipe because it appears you have followed my scaled down version of Kelsey's Red Ale recipe. The Otto Man's base recipe is for 25 litres because that volume suits him' date=' whereas I like to brew @ 21 or 23 litres, so I scaled Kelsey's grain weights down to suit my preferred volume. The reason you are noticing a more roasted flavour in the beer is because you have followed my scaled down version of Kelsey's recipe suited to 23 litres, but have brewed it to a lower 20 litre volume. This lower volume is why the roasted flavours are more prominent, as the percentage weight of the grains that influence these types of flavours are higher in your reduced 20 litre brew. [img']wink[/img] As a side note, the recipe for this beer is soley Otto Von Blotto's, & he deserves ALL the credit for it. I've only brewed it the once, but will be brewing it again soon for Winter drinking as it drinks very well even when a little young. It's a lovely beer. Cheers, Lusty. Hey Lusty, My Bad! I made a 23L batch in the end. Dingo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 There is very much a roasted malt presence which i am wondering will it settle out over time? G'day Dingo' date=' I used pretty much the same ratio of Roasted Barley as you did (32g in a 10.5 litre batch), and also had a noticeable roast presence at bottling. If your batch is anything like mine, it will disappear very quickly. Cheers, John[/quote'] Sounds good, John. I actually really enjoyed the taste out of the FV. I will give it a month in the bottle and see how it goes. Dingo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I just put on the new ROTM Hop Slam. Making 23L of extract beer in under 30mins is a nice change from using grains!!! Dingo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Making 23L of extract beer in under 30mins is a nice change from using grains!!! Blasphemer!! Just kidding mate. I love the process of AG but when I've been short of time I've reverted back to kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kradmelder Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Made a batch of Bock beer this weekend. I also made Eland wors and Ostrich wors and it is in the dryer to make drywors. Great snacks with beer. Finished off the day with a few Weissbiers and braaiing T-bone steaks. On a proper wood fire; this isn't australia you know, a man is free to throw meat over the coals. The fermenter is in the bar, and the dryer, and the braai is built in just outside the bar. Now my bar smells of drying meat, malt and fermenting beer, smoke from a wood fire, and grilled meat..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.taylor4 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Made a batch of Bock beer this weekend. I also made Eland wors and Ostrich wors and it is in the dryer to make drywors. Great snacks with beer. Finished off the day with a few Weissbiers and braaiing T-bone steaks. On a proper wood fire; this isn't australia you know' date=' a man is free to throw meat over the coals. The fermenter is in the bar, and the dryer, and the braai is built in just outside the bar. Now my bar smells of drying meat, malt and fermenting beer, smoke from a wood fire, and grilled meat.....[/quote'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.taylor4 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Espresso Porter TC Devils Half Ruby porter can 1.5 Dark Malt Extract. 200g Brown Sugar 200g Good quality coffee beans, ground for Espresso, wrapped. Kit yeast OG 1042. No boiling, simple and tasting great on Day 3. The coffee is coming through perfectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gag Halfrunt Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Can anyone recommend a good combo to go with a coopers dark ale kit can(I've been given a can and haven't made one before) I'm thinking just a kilo of BE2 and 800 odd grams of LME but would extra hopping be recommended? Not too sure about the hoppiness of this particular brew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 It's not brewday, but I went to the LBHS (Dave's Home Brew) today, & got myself a can of Brew A IPA, carb drops, 1.7kg LME (Black Rock), & some Morgans American Ale yeast (possibly US 05 or similar at a guess) - 15g, which is certainly more yeast than comes with the can, & should cope better with the amount of malt in the brew. Since it's my first go with an IPA, I'm either not going to add any extra hops, or may do a steep or dry hop, rather than my usual hop boil. I've got a little Galaxy & Cascade pellets in the freezer, as well as a good quantity of Vic Secret, so if I do add any hops I'll go with one or other of those, but sparingly, as I understand IPA is a good deal more bitter than the Pale Ale & Canadian Blonde I'm used to. The plan is for this to be my last ale until the weather warms up, so the next few will be lagers or pilsners, using a quick lager method; waiting 2 months is a bit too much to ask if the difference is negligible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Can anyone recommend a good combo to go with a coopers dark ale kit can(I've been given a can and haven't made one before) I'm thinking just a kilo of BE2 and 800 odd grams of LME but would extra hopping be recommended? Not too sure about the hoppiness of this particular brew. Mate' date=' get yourself a can of Coopers APA and some EKG hops and make this cracker of a beer - SMOTY Ale. It's an absolutely delicious drop with minimal fuss - perfect for the colder months without being too heavy. Cheers, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Beeblebrox - just dry hop your IPA with some Vic Secret, 45g should be plenty. It'll just give the beer that bit of fresh aroma which all good IPAs should display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Well, I'm trekking back across town with the youngblood in tow and all the grains for today's smoked bock. Looks like I'm flaking out on LoDO, this time... aside from some reservations about whether it would be worthwhile in a fast-lagering ferment anyway, old mate was out of SMB and railed against its use anyway. No dramas. It's been a bugger of a week at work and I'm happy to keep it simple... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Because I am loving my Redback Ale, and what the Gladfield's Red Back Malt brings to the table I have decided to brew and IPA with a decent % of this malt. The recipe below is basically the same as my Red Ale with a boost from Rye and more Red Back. Red RIPA 20 litres 10.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) 5.00 g Calcium Chloride 2.25 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) US 1.25 kg Munich Malt 0.75 kg RedBack Malt 0.50 kg Rye Malt 0.15 kg Acid Malt 0.10 kg Black (Patent) Malt Mashed at 66 degrees for 60 mins 15.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min 0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 10.0 mins) 25.00 g Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 10.0 min 25.00 g Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 5.0 min BRY 97 A whack of Mosaic at Day 14. Cheers & Beers Scottie Valley Brew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolchy Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Time to bottle my first true lager. Fingers crossed. It fermented 12 days@11° before a 5 day d rest at 18°. Then cold crashed at 1 and finings added 4 days ago. Still got that supfur smell but no diacetyl flavour. Wish me luck folks. Then its time for this lager/pilsener that so many of you have helped me design. My first one using only briess pilsen malt extract and a boil of hops my self. Put a starter of s23 on 24 hours ago at 16° hopefully that should be enough yeasts for it. Then tomorrow its bottle up a mj blonde i made 3 weeks ago and fermented with mj workshorse at 16°. Replacing that with something i will just make up from whats left in the cupboard and fridge after i finish my lager. Not exactly sure. But it may be a fruity lager done at 19° using us05. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gag Halfrunt Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Can anyone recommend a good combo to go with a coopers dark ale kit can(I've been given a can and haven't made one before) I'm thinking just a kilo of BE2 and 800 odd grams of LME but would extra hopping be recommended? Not too sure about the hoppiness of this particular brew. Mate' date=' get yourself a can of Coopers APA and some EKG hops and make this cracker of a beer - SMOTY Ale. It's an absolutely delicious drop with minimal fuss - perfect for the colder months without being too heavy. Cheers, Mark Cool and thanks for the link, Have a can of APA in stock already will do this and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Well, today was probably my best and worst all-grain brewday yet. Best because it was really super relaxed, I got the bulk of work done during youngblood's nap and it's in the fridge, two degrees off target ferment temps with the yeast pitched already. Worst because I was somehow sub-60% on efficiency and my final volume was down around 9 litres. Pity me. Not sure what the dealio's been: first thoughts are PH (though my last dark grain beer didn't need any adjustments) or skipping a sparge / rinse water step (though I really don't see how it could be such a major factor.) Here's the grain bill again: should I be focusing on methods, or recipe? Scratching my head. 1.6 kg German - Pilsner 0.4 kg German - Smoked Malt 0.2 kg German - Dark Munich 0.15 kg American - Caramel / Crystal 90L 0.1 kg American - Chocolate But at least I'm doing so with my feet up. edit: maybe I just need a bigger pot, it was the biggest grain bill I've used yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Hey Jeremy Are you BIAB or using a Mash Tun? I would have thought skipping a sparge would lower efficiency. I am however a batch sparging 3V brewer and don't know anything about BIAB. Cheers & Beers Scottie Valley Brew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.