Otto Von Blotto Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I hit close enough to 90% mash efficiency on my last BIAB batch (89.7%). The brewhouse efficiency would have been 79.5%, but I lost a litre so it dropped to 76.3%. I don't think a finer mill works like some say it does. I've stated this in other threads but since going to a coarser crush my efficiencies have improved to numbers I've never hit before. Even more so with the fluted/knurled mill roller combo giving way less flour in the crushed grains than two knurled rollers did. Efficiencies were quite a bit lower with a finer crush which contained more grain flour. That being said, my goal isn't to hit the highest numbers but simply to get them consistent enough across all batches to be able to more easily design recipes. It's just a product of small changes in equipment and process which came about by necessity, which has caused my efficiency to improve. It is consistently up there now though, so I'm happy. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 consistent enough across all batches That is all you need. Light Pale today. Heavy on the minerals as I have done that a few times lately with a pale and it has been good. Recipe: Light Weight IPA Brewer: Grumpy Style: American IPA TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.035 SG Estimated Color: 21.0 EBC Estimated IBU: 34.3 IBUs Ingredients: ------------ 14.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 - 1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 - 1.50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 - 0.50 g Salt (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 4 - 3.00 kg Munich Malt (17.7 EBC) Grain 5 82.2 % 0.50 kg Rye Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 6 13.7 % 0.15 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 7 4.1 % 1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 8 - 30.00 g 007 [14.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 mi Hop 9 15.2 IBUs 25.00 g Amarillo [8.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20. Hop 10 7.4 IBUs 25.00 g Sticklebract [13.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 11 11.7 IBUs 50.00 g Amarillo [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 3.65 kg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NO CHILL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Lotto (Otto and Lusty's) Red Ale 1.5kg Breiss Light Malt 500gm LDM 500gm BE3 280gm CaraAromoa 180g Carapils 60g Roast Barley Steep for 45 mins @ 66C 20.00 g Cascade - First Wort 80.0 min 5.00 g Warrior - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Centennial - Boil 20.0 min 30g Cascade dry-hopped Whirfloc at 10mins BRY-97 yeast fermented at 18C 20L Batch OG 1.046 FG 1.010 IBU 38.7 EBC 40.6 Dingo. Unfortunately during a mad ANZAC day rush i didn't realised i had 600gm Marris Otter grains mixed in with my grain bill so i went over the OG it was 1.060. I added 3ltrs of cool water after pitching yeast and got it down to 1.050 This is the recipe in the end. Briess Light Liquid Malt 1.7kg Coopers Light Dry Malt 500gm Coopers BE3 500gm Marris Otter 600gm CaraAroma 280gm CaraPils 180gm Roast Barley 65gm 20.00 g Cascade - First Wort 80.0 min 5.00 g Warrior - Boil 60.0 min 20.00 g Centennial - Boil 20.0 min 30g Cascade dry-hopped Whirfloc at 10mins 23L batch BRY-97 or US-05 yeast OG 1.050 Other than a higher alcohol content. Will the addition of the BE3 make much of a difference to color/taste? I was annoyed when i realised today as the beer had a subtle alcohol flavour when i was testing gravity. I fermented the first 4 days at 17.5c and ramped it up to 19.5c on day 5. I'm sure it'll still be delicious. Dingo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heath1525229455 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 consistent enough across all batches That is all you need. Light Pale today. Heavy on the minerals as I have done that a few times lately with a pale and it has been good. Recipe: Light Weight IPA Brewer: Grumpy Style: American IPA TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.035 SG Estimated Color: 21.0 EBC Estimated IBU: 34.3 IBUs Ingredients: ------------ 14.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 - 1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 - 1.50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 - 0.50 g Salt (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 4 - 3.00 kg Munich Malt (17.7 EBC) Grain 5 82.2 % 0.50 kg Rye Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 6 13.7 % 0.15 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 7 4.1 % 1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 8 - 30.00 g 007 [14.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 mi Hop 9 15.2 IBUs 25.00 g Amarillo [8.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20. Hop 10 7.4 IBUs 25.00 g Sticklebract [13.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 11 11.7 IBUs 50.00 g Amarillo [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: BIAB' date=' Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 3.65 kg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NO CHILL[/quote'] When following a recipe such as this, with all of the hop additions being either late in the boil or steep/whirlpool, can one have a shorter boil duration (if so what is the shortest recommended boil time) or is it better to boil for at least an hour? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 The extra fermentables and increased volume will probably dilute the bitterness a bit, Dingo, but otherwise it shouldn't really have any issues. If you're doing an all grain recipe, Heath, it's usually advised to boil for at least an hour, regardless of hop additions. There are other reactions that happen during the boil that are beneficial to the beer as well. I can't remember them off the top of my head, although one is driving off DMS, but if you Google "function of wort boil" or something, you should be able to find the info. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 When following a recipe such as this' date=' [/quote'] Heath if you are doing extract brews then I'd say you'd be safe to bring to a boil for maybe 5 minutes then dump in the hops and turn off the heat. Bear in mind you won't get the bitterness I would if doing a smaller volume boil as that will lose heat faster. Perhaps a 5 minute boil - of the hops - would mimic mine? With all grain you get colour changes and flavour changes from boils. I know some people do 30 minute boils with all grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heath1525229455 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Thanks Ben and Otto, it is all grain and a minimum of an hour boil for me. Up until now all of the boils I have done have been an hour except the Bo Pilsner recipe of Otto's, is it better to do 90 minute boils in general? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Thanks Ben and Otto' date=' it is all grain and a minimum of an hour boil for me.Up until now all of the boils I have done have been an hour except the Bo Pilsner recipe of Otto's, is it better to do 90 minute boils in general? [/quote']Hard to say really. The reason 90 minute boils are recommended when brewing with large amounts of pilsner malt is because it supposedly contains more of the DMS pre-cursor and therefore takes longer to boil it off to below taste thresholds. But with today's malts it may be an obsolete thing. I still boil my pilsners, or any batch that uses pilsner malt for the base, for 90 minutes. Just habit I guess. All my other batches are boiled for 75 minutes; there is no real reason behind that except that it works for me in regards to my initial strike volume of water and filling the cube fully post-boil. It also lets all the foamy sludge crap dissipate fully before the 60 minute hop addition is made. I am thinking of reducing it though, because lately I seem to be getting a lot more trub in the bottom of the urn than I used to, and it is impeding my ability to completely fill the cube with clean wort. Before I do that though, I'm gonna try the technique of using a large stainless bowl with the bottom cut out of it, placed upside down in the bottom of the urn post-boil, and then whirlpool it. Idea being that all (or most of) the trub settles inside the bowl and is more effectively kept away from the tap outlet. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekaboo_jones Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Hey gang, Brew day last night! Bottled two batches the evening prior. Sanitised all gear for 2 new batches too. - Golden ale with US fruity hops and Bry97 yeast. - Other batch was similar fermentables but Fuggle + us cascade hops and Nottingham yeast. Left a few litres on top of yeast cakes till last night, bottled and whipped two new batches quickly. Start time: 10pm Thomas Coopers Brew A IPA 1.5kg Coopers liquid light malt 23L Mixed entire batch into freshly sanitised fermenter. Poured about 5 litres into the old fermenter with Bry97 yeast cake. Mixed around then transferred back into fresh fermenter. Same process again but for: Thomas Coopers Bootmaker pale ale 1kg BE3 500g light dry malt 23L Finish time: 11:15pm Plan to bottle 13L of both batches as normal then dry hop or liquid hop shot them up. Kit brewing can't get any easier! ##Edit Checked brews 8 hours post pitching onto yeast cake and they are already fermenting vigorously with 1+ inch krausen. Also thought it was worthy to mention the fermentation fridge is set to 17deg C to keep self fermentation heat down with all the yeast action Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bollus Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 After a year and a bit of home brewing (77 Brews) I am still enjoying it. Some great brews and some shockers which I guess is all par for the course. Did a lot of dark ales / stouts early on and have left them for a while before drinking. Just opened a 4 month old Dark Ale made from the Coopers Craft range. I think it tastes pretty damn good but I am open to any suggestion as to ways to make it better or what I did wrong especially regarding the yeast and hops. 1 Can Winter Dark Ale 1 250g sachet of Robust Malt Extract 1 250g sachet of Smooth Malt Extract 230g Roasted Malt 12g Perel hops Mangrove Jack M07 Yeast Steeped grains at 65C for 20 mins Added both sachets of Malt Extract and bought to the boil Added Perle hops 7 mins from flameout Added Dark Ale to FV, the the liquid. Yeast added at 21c and fermented for 14 days at 18c. Bottled in PET with carb drops. It has great carbonation (some of my older dark ales seems to be quite flat in comparison), a really nice initial taste with roasted flavours coming through . It has a kind of fizziness on the tongue though?? Appreciate your thoughts. One day I will get the cajones to try an AG brew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSands Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Today, on my ongoing 'noob' journey I assembled the following with my "cheap as possible but as nice possible" philosophy: 1 x Can OS Coopers Dark Ale 1 x 1.5 kg LME (Matexo) 500g Demarra Sugar 250g steeped medium crystal malt 25g Citra Hops - 15min boil US-05 I have no idea what I'm gonna end up with but I'm sure it will be quite drinkable :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPH Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Whacked the styx river pale ale in the fv today, thanks scottie. With a couple of tweaks; 30g midnight wheat just to see what colour effect it has and tried bry-97 for the first time. Recipe as follows: Coopers pale ale can 1.5kg wheat lme 150g light crystal 30g midnight wheat 15g galaxy and 15g willamette @ 15 min 20g galaxy and 15g willamette @ 8 min 10g galaxy and 15g willamette @0 min Bry-97 23 litres Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Interested in seeing what you guys think of this one. Will brew with the Coopers' Pilsner yeast at 17 degrees, in the style of a steam beer or whatever... I just really liked the character of this yeast at that temp. Think it makes for a great clean tasting "ale." Most importantly, will Ella work in this role? Sounds like I can get a hold of it and I'd like to give it something of an Australian character... --- HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Elsinore Bright Ale Author: jeremy-o Brew Method: BIAB Style Name: Australian Sparkling Ale Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 11 liters (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 14 liters Boil Gravity: 1.039 Efficiency: 80% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.049 Final Gravity: 1.014 ABV (standard): 4.63% IBU (tinseth): 25.28 SRM (morey): 5.73 FERMENTABLES: 1.5 kg - United Kingdom - Pale 2-Row (69.8%) 0.5 kg - United Kingdom - Munich (23.3%) 0.15 kg - United Kingdom - Cara Malt (7%) HOPS: 10 g - Northern Brewer, Type: Pellet, AA: 7.8, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 15.33 15 g - Ella, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 9.94 5 g - Ella, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days 5 g - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.6, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days YEAST: Coopers (P) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 I'd probably drop the Munich to 150g as well and increase the base malt by 350g, however, that's just what would suit my tastes for a pale/bright ale. You may well enjoy it the way it is.. your call. Otherwise it looks fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waylon Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Ide be having a 60-45min bitterness and drop it to 7g, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Ide be having a 60-45min bitterness and drop it to 7g' date='[/quote'] Just to use less hops? TBH I kind of want to get through this Northern Brewer But I may even bump it up to 45 and keep the qty the same for a bit of extra punch. First time using Munich and suggestions for how much to use seem a bit all over the place. I'm interested in checking out its character. I could easily bump it down a bit but I do want to be able taste it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 23% Munich suits my taste. Go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I need to get through some hops.... Recipe: RyePA III Brewer: Grumpy Style: Rye IPA TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.070 SG Estimated Color: 30.6 EBC Estimated IBU: 74.5 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 3.50 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 - 1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 - 1.50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 - 5.00 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) Grain 4 70.4 % 1.00 kg Munich Malt (17.7 EBC) Grain 5 14.1 % 1.00 kg Rye Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 6 14.1 % 0.10 kg Gladfield Roast Barley (1450.0 EBC) Grain 7 1.4 % 20.00 g Sticklebract [13.50 %] - First Wort 60.0 Hop 8 26.0 IBUs 1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 9 - 50.00 g 007 [14.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 mi Hop 10 19.4 IBUs 50.00 g Amarillo [8.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20. Hop 11 11.3 IBUs 50.00 g Sticklebract [13.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 12 17.9 IBUs 50.00 g 007 [14.60 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I need to get through some hops…. That one should make a nice dent in the supplies. Good one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Making another saison today with some late Cascade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Bottled my brown ale this morning and the bright ale's 30 minutes into the boil. I almost got some SMB for the low oxygen method but decided at the last minute just to keep it easy today. Had a lower efficiency this week, 75%, but it shouldn't make a big lot of difference in the end. I think it's 'cause the strike water was a bit high to start. I also have used a yeast starter for the first time - giving this Cooper's Pilsner yeast a head start. It looks like it's been fairly active overnight, so fingers crossed I won't need to pitch something else into it in desperation on Monday or Tuesday... edit: for those of you who use starters, do you ever chill and decant them? Have you ever? How long does that process take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Oh my the roasty smokey smells.... yum! Recipe: Smoked Porter Brewer: Grumpy Style: Robust Porter TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications ————————– Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.058 SG Estimated Color: 66.2 EBC Estimated IBU: 51.0 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Ingredients: ———— Amt Name Type # %/IBU 3.50 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 - 1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 - 2.00 kg Munich Malt (17.7 EBC) Grain 3 33.1 % 1.00 kg Gladfield Manuka Smoked Malt (4.0 EBC) Grain 4 16.5 % 1.00 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) Grain 5 16.5 % 1.00 kg Rye Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 6 16.5 % 0.50 kg Brown Malt (Simpsons) (295.5 EBC) Grain 7 8.3 % 0.35 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 8 5.8 % 0.20 kg Gladfield Dark Chocolate Malt (1300.0 EB Grain 9 3.3 % 33.00 g 007 - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 10 51.0 IBUs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Bottled my brown ale this morning and the bright ale's 30 minutes into the boil. I almost got some SMB for the low oxygen method but decided at the last minute just to keep it easy today. Had a lower efficiency this week' date=' 75%, but it shouldn't make a big lot of difference in the end. I think it's 'cause the strike water was a bit high to start. I also have used a yeast starter for the first time - giving this Cooper's Pilsner yeast a head start. It looks like it's been fairly active overnight, so fingers crossed I won't need to pitch something else into it in desperation on Monday or Tuesday... edit: for those of you who use starters, do you ever chill and decant them? Have you ever? How long does that process take?[/quote'] You won't actually know your total efficiency until after the boil when you measure the SG and the volume that goes into the FV I always crash and decant my yeast starters, especially lager ones as they're usually bigger and I don't want that much unhopped wort/beer diluting things. My usual schedule is to boil up a starter wort on a Wednesday around lunch time (shift break), pitch the yeast into it once it cools to room temp (usually around when I go to bed), whack it on the stirrer, turn the stirrer off either 24 or 36 hours later and let it sit. On Saturdays I turn the stirrer back on full bore to mix it all up again in order to harvest some of it into a mason jar, and then the jar and the remaining starter are both put in the fridge. Obviously the jar stays in there and is used in another starter next time I need that particular yeast, but on the Monday I take the starter out, decant and pitch into whatever batch it is. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy-o Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Bottled my brown ale this morning and the bright ale's 30 minutes into the boil. I almost got some SMB for the low oxygen method but decided at the last minute just to keep it easy today. Had a lower efficiency this week' date=' 75%, but it shouldn't make a big lot of difference in the end. I think it's 'cause the strike water was a bit high to start. I also have used a yeast starter for the first time - giving this Cooper's Pilsner yeast a head start. It looks like it's been fairly active overnight, so fingers crossed I won't need to pitch something else into it in desperation on Monday or Tuesday... edit: for those of you who use starters, do you ever chill and decant them? Have you ever? How long does that process take?[/quote'] You won't actually know your total efficiency until after the boil when you measure the SG and the volume that goes into the FV Wait, how so? You're not losing sugars after the mash, just volume, and efficiency is really measuring how much sugar you get from your grain bill... right? Or am I missing something. I definitely didn't leave myself enough time to decant my starter, though I wish I had. Something to think about in the future - I thought I was ahead of the game with getting my starter ready a day early . The good news is the fermentation was super active within 12 hours. Love this yeast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Wait' date=' how so? You're not losing sugars after the mash, just volume, and efficiency is really measuring how much sugar you get from your grain bill... right? Or am I missing something.[/quote']Only if you have additional losses between the end of the boil and the transfer to the fermenter. Say you have a 10 litre batch size, but you leave 2 litres behind in the kettle because you don't want to transfer trub across. For the same amount of grain, you would need better extract efficiency in your mash to reach the same OG in 12 litres total volume than you would to reach that OG in 10 litres total volume. Basically you've left some sugars behind in that 2 litres so your extract efficiency from the amount of grain you had is lower overall. If you dump everything from the boil kettle into the fermenter, then yes, there is no change to your efficiency as measured into the boil. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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