Hairy Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Mine is still in the cube and will probably pitch it next weekend. I have some Craftbrewer English Ale yeast in the fridge so I was thinking of running with that. As for volumes, I made 23 litres and set my efficiency at 65%. So I added an additional 500g ale malt to PB2's recipe. I haven't tested the OG yet to see where I finished efficiency wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sticky Wicket Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Brew day is well under way, and I have completed a 80 min mash and are on my way to 77C mash out temp. StStrike water was 67.8C and after I mashed in 66.4C it dropped to 65.1C after 80 mins. Brew of the day is a Sierra Nevada Clone, using the following ingredients. Pale Ale Malt 96% Dark Caramalt 4% Magnum 7g 60 min Perle 21g 60 min Cascade 44g 15 min Cascade 31g 1 min Cascade 29g Dry hop Yeast US-05 I haven't done this brew before but I do love an American Pale Ale. Price of AG brewing was mentioned in another thread, I bought all ingredients for the recipe pre-measurd and packaged inclusive of grain being crushed and hops measured for $32.80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Well, I'm afraid I've been bitten by the 3V bug. [roll] Next weekend I will hopefully be posting some pleasing results for my first run on my dodgy gravity fed SS braid cooler thingy. I'm getting a little tired of losing 3-4'C over a 90min mash, hoisting bags, and dunk sparging. I'm gonna give 3V a try, and if I'm happy, it'll likely be all BB falsies, thermo wells and march pumps in my future. FFS. [crying] [roll] [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Gone Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 I'm gonna give 3V a try' date=' and if I'm happy, it'll likely be all BB falsies, thermo wells and march pumps in my future. FFS. [crying'] [roll] [lol] enjoy the ride Philbo More than half the fun in this hobby is accumulating the hardware you need, putting it together, making it work and then upgrading and making improvements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Brewed a hopped up Brown Ale today: 2.5kg Ale Malt 0.5kg Dark Crystal 30g Riwaka Flowers @ 15mins 30g Centennial Pellets @ 10mins 30g Amarillo Pellets @ 5 mins 3 x Slovenian Styrian Goldings Plugs @ 1 min Will sit in the cube overnight. Planned FV vol - 21litres with BRY-97 (I'm liking the results from this yeast). I'm planning to put down a PB's Choc-Mag Porter tomorrow if I get a spare couple of hours. I used 3 x Australian Pale Ale sachets - but Windsor, with the prospect of finishing at a tad higher SG, should go quite nicely. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExpatSthAussie Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Brew day brew day Half way through a full extract golden ale - until now I've just done them with the Sparkling Ale kit 1.5kg Light LME 1.5kg Wheat LME 250g Caramalt 20g Amarillo (10.1%) @60 15g Amarillo @15 15g Amarillo @5 15g Amarillo dry hopped Pretty simple, and so far no catastrophes!! Nice one KR, I went with a GA today 2kg Light Malt 1kg Wheat Malt 300g Carapills ( No Caramalt at LHBS ) 10g Amarillo @ 60min 20g Amarillo @ 10min 23litres US - 05 Pitched at 22deg (not 16deg[biggrin] ) Plan to dry hop with 30g of Cascade. Or Amarillo... day 3-4 OG 1042 Sample was [love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Carapils will give the brew some body but it has a different taste to Caramalt. Does your LHBS have light/pale crystal malt. This would do the same job. But your brew will still be nice; nothing wrong with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExpatSthAussie Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Maybe LHBS guy did say Crystal malt..He checked on the PC for best possible match to Caramalt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hey All, Brew Day: June 23/2013 Chocolate Porter AG I had an awesome brew day! I put down PB2's Choc-Mag Porter. I must say that this brew day might be my smoothest one yet![happy] Everything went as planned, for once! My mash temps (64C) were bang on and stayed that way for 60mins. The temp dropped a bit( down to 62C) in the last 15 mins over a 75min mash. My Volumes have never been closer. I collected 28L of wort and my post boil vol was 21.6L![joyful] 3.2Kg Pale ale malt (70.33%) .9 Kg Chocolate Malt(19.78%) .4 Kg Dark Crystal 120L(9.89%) 30g Magnum 11.1% 45mins 1 TBSP 5.2 pH stablizer(mash) 1/2 tab Whirlfloc 10mins 7g yeast nutrient 11g Windsor 21L I managed to get 80% efficiency[w00t] with my 3V set-up and a fly sparge! OG 1.051 IBU 40.6 Chilled, Dudes![biggrin] [cool] Thanks for the great recipe idea, Paul![cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hey Chad, PB2, or any other 3Vers out there. Do you all use cooler MTs? Gravity fed systems or pumps? Do you have dedicated stands, or do you just grab whatever tall objects you can find on brew day? I'm curious as I'm gonna put one together on the weekend and have a go. Looking forward to more steady mash temps! [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hey Phil, This is a confusing problem for me. I have no real set up as yet. This is a puzzle I spend a lot of brain energy every brew day on. I'm trying to come up with the most effiencent (Brew & Brawn) method. I use the three tiers of a picnic table as my set-up. I have two burners nowadays an I'm trying to fit them both in somewhere[unsure] [pinched] . What I do know is... Gravity fed systems work fine but you do have to have some height for your HLT (Hot Liquor Tun) unless you plan to move some vessels around (I don't recommend this for your back[rightful] ) It also helps to have a burner under the HLT to heat things up there rather than transfering hot sparge water by hand or pump from a lower burner ( this is where having two burners is key[rightful] ). Have the HLT above the MLT with a hose attached to both taps is key to maintaining steady temps. I open up the MLT a couple of times during the mashs to stir things around and check temps which of course lowers the temp a little, but by underletting a little more hot liquor into the MLT keeps things steady. I do use a rectangle cooler as my mash tun. I made a manifold using a SS braided line. This is all very new to me as well. I am still looking for a set-up that work for me. I do think your on the right track, though with a cooler MLT, two burners (1 for the HLT+1 for the boil), taps on every vessel possible and as much elevation as you can get![biggrin] I would also like to hear more about others set-ups 3V's or otherwise[wink] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Ruddager Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 ... 10g Amarillo @ 60min 20g Amarillo @ 10min Seems kinda ... not much. What IBU are you expecting? Also, what's 3V? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 3V is three vessel brewing (hot liquor tank, mash/lauter tun, boil kettle) as opposed to my current BIAB single vessel system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hey Chad, PB2, or any other 3Vers out there. Do you all use cooler MTs? Gravity fed systems or pumps? Do you have dedicated stands, or do you just grab whatever tall objects you can find on brew day? I'm curious as I'm gonna put one together on the weekend and have a go. Looking forward to more steady mash temps! [happy] 50L Esky, 50L Ali pot, 19L pot & 2 milk crates [biggrin] I have 3 stainless 50L kegs ready for modification but Im to lazy and the frame/pump is going to hit me in the wallet but thats the plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 I have a 43 litre rectangular esky with a false bottom, 50L SS pot, 19 litre pot, 4 cinder blocks, 1 milk crate and a work bench. I lift the esky onto the work bench to drain and lift the pot onto the bench to empty into the cube. Very manual, nothing fancy but it isn't too bad. I would struggle doing it this way for more than single batches because the 50l pot is pretty heavy. Or perhaps I need to work out more [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have a 43 litre rectangular esky with a false bottom, 50L SS pot, 19 litre pot, 4 cinder blocks, 1 milk crate and a work bench. I lift the esky onto the work bench to drain and lift the pot onto the bench to empty into the cube. Very manual, nothing fancy but it isn't too bad. I would struggle doing it this way for more than single batches because the 50l pot is pretty heavy. Or perhaps I need to work out more [biggrin] Sounds like you need to think a little more about your set-up, Hairy[rightful] . I think it is important to have a pre-brew method that limits the lifting of heavy, boiling vessels. This is a logical step before brew day.[wink] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Sounds like you need to think a little more about your set-up' date=' Hairy[rightful'] . I think it is important to have a pre-brew method that limits the lifting of heavy, boiling vessels. This is a logical step before brew day.[wink] Its all good. They are the only heavy-ish things to lift and they aren't very heavy for single batches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Not having to lift heavy things is the aim for me as well. I bought a heavy duty snap-together galv workbench over the weekend (900mm high) for heating up the mash water. I have a 700mm high table out the front where I do my brewing which the mash tun (55L esky) will sit on. I also have a ~500mm table which the burner and kettle will (hopefully) sit on for the boil. I've used this before for BIAB and it drains into the cube from that height just fine. Could even grind the legs down a bit shorter. I only have one burner, so I'll be heating mash water up high in my kettle, draining to mash tun, then moving both burner and kettle down to lower table for the boil while I heat my sparge water (I'll be batch sparging) on the stove top inside. Quite a process, but in theory I should be okay. I'll put it together the day before and make sure my heights are gonna be okay for an all-gravity system. Does this sound okay? [unsure] Also, I'm assuming I'll lose a fair bit of temp during transfer between HLT and MT on top of the losses from adding grain. What is common for that kind of loss on a reasonably chilly day? Do others preheat their MT with hot water? I'll be getting to strike before adding grains to be sure I'm on the money although I've seen others add grain first. I'll probably aim higher rather than lower as it's easier to drop the temp than raise it. I'll take some pics on Sunday and post how I went. Phew! [roll] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Also, I'm assuming I'll lose a fair bit of temp during transfer between HLT and MT on top of the losses from adding grain. What is common for that kind of loss on a reasonably chilly day? Do others preheat their MT with hot water? Don't know Phil. I just tip my water into the mash tun and then add the grains. I don't run it in slowly through the tap. You may have to experiment a bit before hand to work out temp loss. I usually heat my mash water (liquor) 1-2 degrees higher than Brewmate suggests and I am usually close after stiring in the grain. It depends on the beer and whether I am concerned about mashing higher or lower. And yes, I pre-heat the mash tun by pouring some hot water in and around the sides and then closing the lid. I empty this just before mashing in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hey Phil, I'm not used to measurement in mm but it seems to me that everything could use a little more height. You must remember that the higher each tier is the faster the flow and greater the control.[rightful] If you have a hose attached between the HLT and MLT there shouldn't be too much temp. lose when transfering. In fact I let a little more liquor into the MLT to warm thing back up to proper temp. after stirring . This seems to work a treat as laong as the HLT is still hot. I would think about trying a fly sparge just for fun and better effeciency. If you have the HLT up there already why not, Eh? I do pre-heat my MLT. Why do you batch sparge inside? Does that mean you also boil the wort inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 [lol] Sorry Chad, I didn't mean I'd be sparging inside, just heating the sparge water. I only have the one burner, and by the time I want to start sparging, I would want the kettle and burner in place under the MT full of the first runnings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Phil, I wish we could be face to face in your backyard to really talk this over[annoyed] . I think I understand what you're up to, but it would be so nice to talk about it without my fingers in the way. I think you could still heat you sparge liquor outdoors on your single burner and hand bomb it up to your HLT up on a pedestal without a burner under under it. It would probably be warm enough still. There are many ways to skin a cat.[smile] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Phil, I wish we could be face to face in your backyard to really talk this over[annoyed] . I think I understand what you're up to, but it would be so nice to talk about it without my fingers in the way. I think you could still heat you sparge liquor outdoors on your single burner and hand bomb it up to your HLT up on a pedestal without a burner under under it. It would probably be warm enough still. There are many ways to skin a cat.[smile] That would work. Or you could heat the sparge water a few degrees higher than you need to, move the burner down under the kettle ready to collect the first runnings. The temp of the sparge water should still be OK by the time you have drained the mash tun. Plus it isn't so important to hit your sparge temp bang on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 [lol] Yeah, I know guys. To me, carrying the ~13L of sparge water from the kitchen and tipping it onto the grains doesn't sound as hard as juggling the water around from vessel to vessel outside. As I said, a pump will probably happen in the future and it won't be an issue. I'll hopefully have some pics of what happens on Sunday. It makes sense in my head, even if I'm communicating it poorly. I've always heated my sparge water on the stove for BIAB anyway, as my kettle sits on the burner during mashing/lagging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExpatSthAussie Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 ... 10g Amarillo @ 60min 20g Amarillo @ 10min Seems kinda ... not much. What IBU are you expecting? 18-20 IBU's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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