Guest Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Just bottled my first batch today [biggrin] OS lager dry hopped with Cascade... I'm afraid I'll struggle to be patient. It was bad enough when the beer was sat in the fermenter for 12 days and I could observe it/test it/check temps etc... let alone when I have to leave it in the cupboard for 2 weeks minimum! Patience is one of those things that Homebrewing teaches you... usually after *ucking thing up by not being patient enough... I was guilty of this too as I believe most people were in the begining. What I tell people starting off is this. If you can, plan on collecting and buying longnecks for 3 months, by the time this is up you will have a decent store of bottles that will be behind you allowing you to brew today and drink the ones that are 3 months old... depending on a: how good they taste and b: how much you drink (which can sometimes be related to a: [lol] ) I still aim for this golden 3 month number and when you do get there you will not have to resort to a bottleshop for a long long time!! and also have a goodly range of your own numbers! Sounds like a long time, but it's not really Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Or get kegs so you can start drinking within the hour if you really want. [joyful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
***** Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What I tell people starting off is this. If you can, plan on collecting and buying longnecks for 3 months, by the time this is up you will have a decent store of bottles that will be behind you allowing you to brew today and drink the ones that are 3 months old... depending on a: how good they taste and b: how much you drink (which can sometimes be related to a: [lol] ) I still aim for this golden 3 month number and when you do get there you will not have to resort to a bottleshop for a long long time!! and also have a goodly range of your own numbers! Sounds like a long time, but it's not really Yob +1 for Yob's advice to new brewers. I did just this, the other thing you will tend to do is look out for different craft beers and buy them as well, giving you ideas of what kind of brews you want to make in the future.[cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeCoq/Rooster Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 It seems I am in the same boat as a few other newbies. Bottled my first brew today (with the keen assistance of my son). Got 30 PET bottles and 4 330ml bottles. The final (5th glass bottle) was full of too cloudy for my liking so finished up there. Got to test out my glass bottles and capping etc. See how they go. hopefully no blowouts. About to soak FV in preparation of my second brew, Aus Pale Ale with Cascade (dry hopped). Am going to split the brew up into two FV's to test with and without hops. Thanks for all the advice Yodas. It been a pleasure to brew so far. Looking forward to getting started on styles and clones i really like. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne (Captain Yobbo) Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I will say the lawnmower lager tastes great after 3 weeks in the bottle it goes down real easy even my mrs liked it so all good i sure do love the DIY kit that i got for xmas planning on making either dark ale or stout this week if the weather cools down :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mags Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Picked up a cider kit on the cheap for the mrs and was looking for some tips. She doesn't mind a sweet/dry cider ... so keeping it really sweet isn't a problem. I was looking for tips on sugar... normal sugar, raw sugar, dextrose? I am also going to add some fresh apple juice instead of water.. ideally 5-6% wanted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teej Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Patience is one of those things that Homebrewing teaches you... usually after *ucking thing up by not being patient enough... I was guilty of this too as I believe most people were in the begining. What I tell people starting off is this. If you can, plan on collecting and buying longnecks for 3 months, by the time this is up you will have a decent store of bottles that will be behind you allowing you to brew today and drink the ones that are 3 months old... depending on a: how good they taste and b: how much you drink (which can sometimes be related to a: [lol] ) I still aim for this golden 3 month number and when you do get there you will not have to resort to a bottleshop for a long long time!! and also have a goodly range of your own numbers! Sounds like a long time, but it's not really Yob Thanks for the advice Yob - I have some glass bottles I've started saving up, but will need to get myself a capper... I didn't bother when i got all my brewing gear as I thought the load of PET bottles that came with the Coopers starter kit would be all I'd want - wishful thinking. I can definitely see this turning into an obsession... I'm already dreaming of multiple FVs, kegging etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I thought the load of PET bottles that came with the Coopers starter kit would be all I'd want - wishful thinking. I can definitely see this turning into an obsession... I'm already dreaming of multiple FVs, kegging etc... [lol] I knew from the get go that it was all over for me and went streight to glass, I think I even threw out the pet's when I opened the box. 3FV's is a pretty magical number for me as it suits my ferment cycle, 1 week to ferment, 1 week to condition, 1 week to cold condition. Its pretty organic and as I take the last one out of the CC fridge the other 2 get moved up the line. Though I picked up 2 kegs the other week quite cheeply , im not yet ready to put them into service, Im over 2 years into this obsession and still havnt felt the need. I have 300+ longnecks though (not all full) and I like the versatility of the bottles, easy to take away in an esky, etc etc. Anyway, have fun with it mate, it's what it's all about... that and AWESOME ALE!!![ninja] [rightful] [roll] [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Yob - you can obviously still bottle when you have kegs. I have about 50 bottles in stock atm. I reckon if you did a really nice AG Lager and put then into the kegs naturally Carb them and when you are ready they would be like nectar from the gods [love] Just a thought as you will then have 2 kegs ready as soon as you are [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanS4 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Well just an update on my first ever brew from the new DIY kit I bought for myself at christmas. Week 2 in the PET bottle was last week, and the brew is the basic lager kit. First taste last week was fairly grim[crying] , tiny hiss as the bottle was opened and although nice and clear the bubbles lasted about 30 seconds, no head at all, and tasted like bad home brew. I had pitched at the upper limit and struggled to keep it cool, only just staying within the upper limits. I gave it a few extra days in the FV after FG. Just now, 21 days in the bottle, I took my second sample. Good colour, smell, still very little hiss on opening and no head, but the bubbles keep coming. More importantly, it's not only very drinkable but actually quite good. Just to be sure I was not getting some kind of 'I made it' effect on my taste buds, I followed it with a good German commercial beer. Very similar in terms of aroma and taste. Happy Days! Cheers Coopers and those on this forum who offered advice.[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG4 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 i bottle brew number 2 tomorrow, and am already planning a third to put on this weekend (unless the fridge thing happens this weekend, in which case i'll hold off til the temp controller gets here. i've had a great trip to the brew shop today and picked up an interesting hop selection including galaxy and cascade (with instructions to put the cascade on for half an hour, then galaxy at 10 mins and flame out). this is to go with a coopers draught can and a can of amber liquid malt extract to go with a safale-04 yeast. of course, i forgot to get the sugar. given i already have a liquid malt extract, i was just going to use the 1.25kg of BE2 that i have lying around. sound good? or do i need to go to big w and get a BE1, dextrose or LDME? i'm also happy to take advice on how much sugar to use, it's the first time i'm use a liquid malt extract so i have no real idea how much sugar to add with it. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne (Captain Yobbo) Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Went to get supplies today for either a Stout or Dark ale kit and none in stock was rather peeved off however i decided to put down a unreal ale instead wasn't sure what kind of hops to buy so i didn't get them as i was going to get fuggles for the stout :( next time i suppose but this is brew number 2 so far so good my lawnmower lager turned out not bad considering when i pitched the yeast it was 30 degree's. However managed to pitch the yeast at 24 degree's today so even though my lawnmower lager turned out good i presume this one will turn out better as i will be leaving it in the FV for an extra week to clean it up a bit etc this has turned into an obsession as all i do in my spare time is research read forum threads watch youtube vids which will help when i start making AG brews :) this forum is tops with top advice etc Coopers you did a great job with the DIY kit went out bought another 30 PET bottles too so starting to get a stock of bottles up soon the cupboards will be full of beer lol[lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kearnage Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 i've had a great trip to the brew shop today and picked up an interesting hop selection this is to go with a coopers draught can and a can of amber liquid malt extract of course, i forgot to get the sugar. given i already have a liquid malt extract, i was just going to use the 1.25kg of BE2 that i have lying around. sound good? or do i need to go to big w and get a BE1, dextrose or LDME? i'm also happy to take advice on how much sugar to use, it's the first time i'm use a liquid malt extract so i have no real idea how much sugar to add with it. thanks With a 1.7 kg kit, 1.5 kg of liquid malt and 23L volume you'll be looking at around 5% ABV (after bottle fermentation), so unless you want higher than that, it sounds a good recipe, and all malt no sugar is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
***** Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 i've had a great trip to the brew shop today and picked up an interesting hop selection including galaxy and cascade (with instructions to put the cascade on for half an hour, then galaxy at 10 mins and flame out). this is to go with a coopers draught can and a can of amber liquid malt extract to go with a safale-04 yeast. of course, i forgot to get the sugar. given i already have a liquid malt extract, i was just going to use the 1.25kg of BE2 that i have lying around. sound good? or do i need to go to big w and get a BE1, dextrose or LDME? i'm also happy to take advice on how much sugar to use, it's the first time i'm use a liquid malt extract so i have no real idea how much sugar to add with it. thanks Hey Brad I am sure you have heard everyone talking about Ian H's spreadsheet Here's the link You will need Excel on your PC. The questions you are asking are all answered by this spreedsheet. You pick a style and then get a guideline that updates as you input your ingredients. You still need an idea of what characteristics the ingredients bring to the beer. The spreasheet estimates your LME and BE2 mix at an ABV of over 6%. My first brew with 1.5kg of LME also had 300g of dextrose and came out at 5.5%, I used Cascade and Nelson Savin and its not a bad first up hopped drop. The spreadsheet also tells how to make up your hop boil SG, I didn't do this with the forementioned brew. If you just want to do ABV then go to this online calculator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 i bottle brew number 2 tomorrow, and am already planning a third to put on this weekend (unless the fridge thing happens this weekend, in which case i'll hold off til the temp controller gets here. i've had a great trip to the brew shop today and picked up an interesting hop selection including galaxy and cascade (with instructions to put the cascade on for half an hour, then galaxy at 10 mins and flame out). this is to go with a coopers draught can and a can of amber liquid malt extract to go with a safale-04 yeast. of course, i forgot to get the sugar. given i already have a liquid malt extract, i was just going to use the 1.25kg of BE2 that i have lying around. sound good? or do i need to go to big w and get a BE1, dextrose or LDME? i'm also happy to take advice on how much sugar to use, it's the first time i'm use a liquid malt extract so i have no real idea how much sugar to add with it. thanks FYI The BE2 consists of: 500g Dextrose 250g maltodextrin 250g Light Dry Malt I agree with Kearnage [biggrin] . Your recipe should come out at around 5% so I feel no need to add the BE2 unless you really want to. Save it for the next time imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckDownUnder Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks Yob, I look forward to spending the next few months taking down lots of Sparkling Ale longnecks while this first batch gets ready in the bottles. [biggrin] This may be a silly question, but why do the instructions that come with the Coopers cans say 21-27C is ideal when it appears that 18-20C is much better? There's not even any overlap in those ranges! My batch has been in the FV for 10 days now, should be a good day to bottle tomorrow with the rain forecast for Sydney. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yob - you can obviously still bottle when you have kegs. I have about 50 bottles in stock atm. I reckon if you did a really nice AG Lager and put then into the kegs naturally Carb them and when you are ready they would be like nectar from the gods [love] Just a thought as you will then have 2 kegs ready as soon as you are [cool] Good idea Bill, I still need lines and such too and am waiting to do the shed reno's before I set them up... will probably need a chesty as well [whistling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kike Gimenez Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Greetings lads! So I just bottled today. 6 days after fermentation was complete with a FG of 1.12 instead of 1.15 that I got about a week ago. But it was done really sparking clean brew. Taste great, a little bitter but I guess that's what dark ale tastes like. got 30 PET Bottles of it so Im a happy man :D Im keeping them in the same fridge the fermenter was on. Since I was keeping the fridge temp around 20, Im now planning on leaving its temp around 24-26C which is what Ive read is the bottling temperature. One question, some people say to move the bottles sideways a week after to help the drops dissolve a bit more, is this good? or should I just leave the bottles alone for about a month ? Thanks Lads! Happy Brewing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 No need to move the bottles. Just leave them until you are ready to drink them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Since I was keeping the fridge temp around 20' date=' Im now planning on leaving its temp around 24-26C which is what Ive read is the bottling temperature. One question, some people say to move the bottles sideways a week after to help the drops dissolve a bit more, is this good? or should I just leave the bottles alone for about a month ?[/quote'] 20C would be a better temp for the first couple of weeks in the bottle....24-26C is a bit high. The drops will dissolve all by themselves so no need for any bottle gymnastics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Just a little addition to the awesome spreadsheet Eddie pointed out (thanks heaps). If you don't have Excel like me and use OpenOffice there are two little tricks you need to use to get it to work. First you need to enable Macros which OO diables by default - Tools-> Options -> Expand the OpenOffice.org section and click on "Security" then click on the "Macros" button and choose your desired setting. Second, in the same "Options" window expand the "Load/Save" section and click on "VBA properties". Check the "Executable code" box under Microsoft Excel 97/2000/XP. Should all work now, like it did for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 This may be a silly question, but why do the instructions that come with the Coopers cans say 21-27C is ideal when it appears that 18-20C is much better? There's not even any overlap in those ranges! I must admit to being puzzled by this myself.. Could there be something about the higher temperature range that makes the brew kits more 'foolproof' from the Coopers point of view? It's one thing to have two slightly differing points of view, but as you noted, these two camps don't even appear to share any common ground - though I'm sure they both have their reasons. Could anyone explain to a noob like myself (already struggling with temperatures in the middle of summer) what might be going on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 A possible explanation could be that you can brew in the range of 21-27C & this temp range can be achieved by someone starting out on their brewing journey. Most people who have just bought their brewing kits might not have access to a brew fridge like established brewers who are able to set their fridge to 18c & sit back & let the yeast do what they do best. I know my first few brews were a challenge keeping temps in the lower range. A brew fridge has certainly helped & produced better beers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 A possible explanation could be that you can brew in the range of 21-27C & this temp range can be achieved by someone starting out on their brewing journey. I did wonder this, but then surely they're also selling a goodly number of the same kits into colder climates (Tassie etc.) as well as virtually all of the southern states during the winter months where we probably struggle to warm the brew to these temperatures almost as much as solving the summer problem. Not to mention international exports.. (does the can I buy in Canada contain the same instructions as the Melbourne one?) It's doing my noob head in I tells ya.. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanuckDownUnder Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Oh well, too high brewing temp or not I bottled on Australia Day and now the waiting game begins. I'm sure I'll crack and try one in a couple weeks instead of a couple months! [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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